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Via Apsyrtides

bos3. 08. 2025 08:56:36

We spent our family sea holidays on Mali Lošinj and one day I walked the path Čunski - Polanža - Peski - Veli Križ - Kalčič - Počivalice - Sv. Nikola - Televrin - Pl. dom Sv. Gaudent - Osor. nasmeh

On the path itself, besides the hiking markers, I also encountered a marker with a blue dashed line and a red dot, only at Televrin, where there's also the path stamp, did I realize it's the path Via Apsyrtides. jezik

On the link, the entire path is nicely described by stages and now, having walked the most difficult 8th stage, the other stages might come up sometime when we're back here at the sea. velik nasmeh

Via Apsyrtides Mali Lošinj after the rain

Via Apsyrtides we went by bike to Artatore

Via Apsyrtides all paths are nicely marked

Via Apsyrtides when the sea sparkles after the storm

Via Apsyrtides we on bikes along the sea to Veli Lošinj

Via Apsyrtides on the opposite side of the road there is a large space for parking

Via Apsyrtides chapel at Polanža, far back there the summit of Osorščica

Via Apsyrtides The entire path is well marked

Via Apsyrtides harder section where the poles are more of a hindrance

Via Apsyrtides at the intermediate summit and continuation

Via Apsyrtides follows a more overgrown green section

Via Apsyrtides Male and Vele Srakane and Susak

Via Apsyrtides view back on traversed ridge

Via Apsyrtides I go after the turtle, because the hare is too fast

Via Apsyrtides at the summit of Televrina

Via Apsyrtides descent along the fixed cable

Via Apsyrtides the mountain hut is already visible

Via Apsyrtides still to the cross by the path

Via Apsyrtides it says it is closed for renovation, possibility of reservation

Via Apsyrtides today there will be nothing

Via Apsyrtides remains of St. Peter's monastery

Via Apsyrtides a new day dawns with Vele Straže (Monte Baston)

Via Apsyrtides invites to a morning swim

Via Apsyrtides going to take some more photos of Veli Lošinj

Via Apsyrtides Mali Lošinj, as seen by seagulls

Via Apsyrtides church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

(+7)

bagi23. 10. 2025 11:42:01

Via Apsyrtides is a newer thematic trail connecting Cres and Lošinj. It runs from rt Jablanac in the far north to rt Radovan in the far south, officially 149 km of walking with 4000 elevation gains. It got its name from the old name for this island archipelago, marked with VA – stylized initials Via Apsyrtides. On Cres and Mali Lošinj you also get a dedicated hiking logbook, which we learned only post festum zavijanje z očmi

.

On the entire trail there are 11 stamps, stored in nice boxes. They stand at very random places far from civilization, except in touristy Lubenice. And right there during our visit the stamp was stolen, replaced by empty cans and a bag of dog poop mrk pogled

. First stamp at rt Jablanac, last at rt Radovan. Also lots of marks and info boards, so no special direction issues. Only ambiguous is Čunski - Mali Lošinj connection, where access to original coastal path is fenced off, new VA marks lead to sidewalk by main road. Surprisingly marks disappear for kilometers, reappear and disappear again. Inexplicable.

We walked the entire trail and can say we enjoyed it velik nasmeh

. Much more mountainous than Camino Krk, beautiful and scenic, but quite demanding both logistically and hiking-wise. Hiking in terms of terrain on certain sections, logistically due to start point choice and return. Camino Krk has big advantage due to loop, Via Apsyrtides is linear and needs much more planning. We started from Merag harbor near Cres town, returned there at end, slept in still open accommodations as close to trail as possible. Off-season not as much choice as summer.

Bottom line we walked much more km than official, total 199 km and 5400 elev. Did all parts on foot, only access to Ilovik island and back to Cres by sea. To Merag harbor also back on foot same as first day. Bottom line again ... highly recommend nasmeh

. More in continuations …

GPS track of the entire hiked path. It recorded 199 km and 5400 m elevation gain.

(+7)

smatjaz24. 10. 2025 08:00:32

Bagi, if you have gpx track please share. best Matjaž

Janez5224. 10. 2025 09:51:47

smatjaz
on this link you have the trail described divided into 11 stages. Besides descriptions you can download GPX tracks to your computer.

Link:
https://viaapsyrtides.hr/

bagi24. 10. 2025 11:42:20

Matjaž, if you want all complete what we walked incl. access from Merag send your E-mail. Mine from profile

Emil

bagi24. 10. 2025 15:18:43

Day 1 ...

Just walked Camino Krk also dictated the start for Via Apsyrtides. Drove to Valbiska harbor, from where ferry has regular line to neighboring Cres island. Left car a bit before harbor, didn't need it on the other side. Turned out big plus, as we were first on ferry and first off nasmeh

.

Initial info board for our trail right away in Merag harbor. Says it's entry point for Via Apsyrtides, but as we found later not the only one. This sign led us right past Merag village over hill and further to Cres town outskirts. Marks constant, rarely checked GPS track. Followed coffee stop at Plodine store right on trail, then turned right north.

Walked wide road past numerous olive groves and endless stone walls. Dry stone walls really many and scope of generations' work strong impression. Later road narrows but with unusual paved base. Napoleon's project to establish land connection over both islands coach-width. Sea route blocked by British then. Impressive, but soon left this road and continued on much less comfortable stone paths. Unexpectedly stumbled on stamp box we didn't even know exist eek

. In it stamp no. 3.

Soon day's challenge. Had to climb 639m Sis hill, looked like piece of cake. But reckoning without the host. Straight into steep, sun baking full power, no breeze. Soon sweating like after shower. Plus deep below tempting blue sea. Strength reserves gone quick, had to switch emergency stubborn mode velik nasmeh

. Of course reached top and far beyond, but dehydration so strong rest of day couldn't quench.

Ended in Beli, small village known for white-tailed eagle recovery center. Only accommodation around, pension Tramontana. Booking advertises AC rooms, but not that portable units. Roar like tractor, plus in our room exhaust pipe through open window. Unbelievable velik nasmeh

. Who knows a bit understands. Spent whole hour rigging with curtains and hangers to cool room somehow. Definitely interesting day, more in photo story …

Valbiska, ferry terminal. And no, that's not a catamaran :)

Without a vehicle we are first on the ferry, while the motorized units are still waiting in line

We two pedestrians have long been drinking coffee, others nowhere in sight

We're almost docking in Merag. Despite the late date many are waiting to board

In the port the first Via Apsyrtides sign awaits us with explanation that this is the entry point for the trail

Oh dear, right behind the first sign is another with quite an unpleasant message. What else awaits us???

First classic marking, stylized VA from path initials and red dot for better visibility. Verified :)

Village Merag, after which the ferry port got its name. It has cute photos from the sixties

Owner of the little donkey from the previous picture, Anton Cesarič from Merag

Local fishermen's moorings, ferry in the background

We continue along the only road over the hill. There are plenty of markers, no way to get lost

The road was recently widened. A bit lower, there's still a road work sign

View of the departing ferry. We have climbed almost 300 meters

Another sign for VA. Here is also the junction for the Sveti Bartolomej variant

It also turns in this direction, where we first follow our markers from the times of former Yugoslavia

It's hard to go wrong, because there are stone walls everywhere

Another info board on the same topic. There are tons of such boards on the entire trail

Towards Cres, descending along a path that leaves no doubt about the correctness of the direction

Cres. Today we don't go straight into the town, because we turn right earlier

After indulging in morning coffee at the Plodine shopping center, we continue towards Beli

Here it's already pure countryside, with no inhabited houses

But there are numerous fences, and there will be plenty more ahead

It's hot, the wind today has no particular desire to work

Man-made drinking trough for animals and birds

Incredible, how many dry-stone walls there are everywhere around

All paths lead to beautifully maintained olive groves

We walk on a finely paved road with neat curbs and wonder. Who made this and why?

The answer comes after a while. This is Napoleonka, which due to the short French administration was never completed.

Soon we turn from the comfortable road onto less comfortable terrain.

Fortunately, there is a well-trodden path among the numerous rocks.

Complete surprise. We absolutely did not expect the stamp boxes, which stand in the middle of nowhere.

The continuation of the path offers beautiful views.

And also sandy beaches, accessible only by sea. We look down there quite sadly :)

Everything is nicely marked. Full praise to the path's creators.

Quite a bit less, because we will push up there in the greatest heat.

Soon we find ourselves in real high mountains. Even Knafelc's marks confirm it :)

View back. We came over the hill, we will return by road the next day.

View of the sea, which is already deep below us.

It goes like this too, almost always on the cut branch.

Sis, second highest peak on Cres and highest on Via Apsyrtides.

A little further ahead stands a strange container of unknown purpose.

Something flies above us. We look into the sky and notice numerous griffon vultures, for which Cres is also known.

The answer comes quickly … there, this way :)

Quickly check the GPS track. We are on track …

There are enough marks, but in the rocky world you quickly overlook them

After a long time it descends properly for the first time

We continue on the nice traverse path marked with mountaineering and VA markers

The day will soon end, we must urgently go left

Then follows a not very nice forest trail

The info about another entry point on Via Apsyrtides surprises us, probably only with transport here

Tonight's accommodation Pansion Tramontana. Judging by what is seen, the house once had a different purpose

Air-conditioned room in quotes :) Of course I turned off the tractor at night

GPS track of the first day. It added up to a hot 28 km and 1200 elevation meters

(+8)

bagi27. 10. 2025 17:33:48

Day 2 ...

On the second day we started much earlier than on the first. We wanted to take advantage of the cooler morning, as we had gotten well sunburned the previous day. The initial path suited us perfectly. Leisurely wide gravel road pampered us for a long time, then we turned into more demanding terrain. Ancient stone paths led us towards our goal, the northernmost point of Cres. Meanwhile free-roaming sheep watched us scaredly several times, as there are huge numbers of them in this part of the island. They have no fences, are unmarked, dirty fleeces drag to the ground. Here and there one dies and decays, sweetish stink warned us. They gather in small groups and hide in the shadiest areas. Incredible, we had experienced something similar only on Corsica, only there free-roaming domestic pigs live.

Eventually we reached the abandoned hamlet Konac, from where we started descending towards the sea. The path is gentle, locally overgrown and here we met the only snake on the entire Via Apsyrtides. It was quite big, but probably no vipers on this island group. Anyway each fled to its own side, we of course downward velik nasmeh

. Soon we were at Cape Jablanac, where the path leads. Ahead follows a steep drop towards the sea. Info board marks the start of VA path, the box has stamp no. 1. From Beli to here is 9 km of walking, but one must return.

We returned on the same path, but nearby we also checked the almost abandoned village Ivanje. Apparently only three locals live there and we met all three nasmeh

. On to Beli it dragged on, there we also checked the recovery center for white-headed eagles. Especially their wide living space surprised me. Even those in nearby Karniji are originally from this island.

Followed the return to Cres, which is a story in itself. Via Apsyrtides in this part of the island we had fully walked, so how back ??? The day was hot again, therefore the same path over the hills as the previous day would require too much time and energy. We decided for the road variant and hitchhiking passing cars. From Beli to the main road we didn't expect much anyway, as it is a side road almost without traffic. The surprise followed on the main road from the ferry port Nerezine to Cres. Despite at least a hundred hitchhiking attempts no one stopped, not even when I showed bare knees velik nasmeh

. Tired of the raised thumb we quit hitchhiking and walked on foot towards the town. It dragged like a snail, but there was at least enough space by the road for safe walking and we even had shade. The sun was heating the opposite side of the hill. After a total of 19 km of asphalt from Beli we finally reached our goal, found accommodation and just collapsed into bed. More in the photo-story …

Morning already chases the night. Time to get up...

Soon we are back on the path. To start, a gentle road follows, just right for warming up.

Even for those accustomed to curves, something can be found :)

Later a signpost directs us towards the hamlet Konac

Indeed, the markers lead us along numerous rocky paths

Water troughs for animals. Often these are disused bathtubs

Neither height nor length, but the path marker

Without following the VA markers you quickly get lost in these labyrinths

Hamlet Konac and the only occasionally inhabited house

This is a hunting lodge that is reasonably maintained

On it is also the continuation marker …. rt Jablanac

These are the other houses in the immediate vicinity. Once this was a shepherds' settlement

The descent is about one and a half kilometres, but does not go right to the sea

Some more explanations about the northernmost point of Cresa and Via Apsyrtides

The return towards Konac follows the same path. On the way we meet shy sheep

The old village is not far away, apparently only three people live there permanently

There are many ruins, which were once mighty buildings.

A few more explanations. Once 139 people lived in this village.

Very few of them can be seen in these parts.

We are already at the familiar markings.

We will also visit the recovery center for griffon vultures.

History of the recovery center. Once it was an elementary school.

Real vultures must not and cannot be photographed, so the artificial ones are good too :)

Incredibly large area that these large birds fly over. The closest to us is the yellow one.

For the return we choose the road. We will stop someone...

He, he, this is how a road is built :) There are no restrictions or barriers anywhere.

Pure classic. At the beginning we were surprised, now it's normal for us.

Bravo us two, after seven lonely kilometers we are finally on the main road

Sheep Island. They couldn't be more right :)

Unfortunately doesn't sell ice cream, but only cheese

Has been walking along the road for a long time. Hitchhiking prospects look poor

Even the signs are adapted to sheep. In two kilometers one will cross the road :)

Tired of trying to stop cars. Unbelievable, many passed by but none stopped

Has views and shade, but the stride has long been on autopilot

Suburbs of Cres. Every bit of shade is welcome

VA info board at the entrance to the old town of Cres

Bike rental. Would love to ride that one right at the back :)

It didn't work, so we continue on foot to the accommodation. Luckily it's only a few 100 m ahead

On the second day too we walked quite a bit. Altogether 38 km and 900 m elevation gain

(+8)

lino27. 10. 2025 20:33:43

Bagi, nice and interesting as always. Car drivers probably perceived you as something unreal and potentially dangerous. nasmeh

I know my observation is also a bit abstract! nasmeh

(+1)

mpp27. 10. 2025 22:26:51

Is there a variant to Cape Jablanac with a "taxi" boat from Porozina?

(+1)

bagi28. 10. 2025 04:15:15

I think not. No access shore was visible, let alone any pier. From Porozina there's some path to Ivanj, but then the return story repeats.

(+1)

bagi29. 10. 2025 14:00:04

Day 3 ...

The logistically most complicated part of Via Apsyrtides was behind us, the following days went easier nasmeh

. On the third day we started right from Cres, circled some of the initial coast and climbed around 200 m via Napoleonka. There at the marked junction we turned onto a rocky path, of which there were plenty ahead. But we followed numerous VA markers and they reliably led us towards the hamlet Krčina and after a slight descent further to the intersection with the transverse bike path. In between we also came across a box with a stamp.

The flat bike path is for just over 6 km, then we started ascending towards Lubenice. It is a beautiful village with old architecture, beautiful views and a functioning refreshment spot. There should be a stamp, but in the box there was everything but, including dog poop bags. Due to tourism all sorts of people park here and some lack the basic principles of cultural behavior mrk pogled

.

After a well-deserved break we rushed towards the summit Helm, which for our understanding is barely a hill. But the path to it is rocky and gives the impression of real high mountains. We immediately felt more at home velik nasmeh

. Then followed only the descent towards the sea coast, for the first time after Cres. We reached it in Zaglav, the former SLO tourist settlement near Miholašćica. Evening swimming followed and a visit to the nearby shop. Interestingly, a huge number of products on the shelves were of Slovenian origin, prices completely normal. Fully loaded we set off towards tonight's accommodation with the meaningful name *Sunset*. We had just experienced a beautiful one jezik

After morning coffee, setting off into the day

Following VA signs, which are rarer in the town

Soon we are on the shore with numerous moorings

We leave the sea section of the path. We are back on Napoleonka

The comfortable hiking ends soon. Turning right onto Via kamenje :)

Wall on the left, wall on the right, the direction is unambiguous

Markers are excellently visible on rocks, but often more difficult due to blue color

Via Apsyrtides connects numerous existing paths, no new ones created specifically for it

Incredible what they built in the middle of nowhere

There is a small sea of them, each with its own way of opening.

Many are equipped with a tourist sign … Close the door.

Bravo us, we found another little box. Now we have four stamps already.

Blue far below us. It makes you tender :)

The sea is far below, but at least we have great views.

Many hidden coves are accessible only by sea.

A surprising refreshment also arrived for us …

Sv. Marko is a short detour off the path. To continue, return to the first bend.

For the tired ones. The local alpine association cares much better for hikers than ours :)

It's not visible in the photo, but the slope is steep and prolonged.

Lubenice, the only tourist spot with a VA box.

Unfortunately, the content is accordingly different. The stamp was stolen, replaced by trash.

Lubenice with a beautiful view and nice village center.

There is also a refreshment stand on the square.

View of Kvarner Bay. There is also a beach far below.

483 m high Helm above Vransko Lake. It has a huge supply of fresh water.

The only house in the middle of nowhere. Everything is neatly arranged and polished.

Today we walk the more continental variant. We will reach the sea only at the end of the day.

But there are plenty of views for that, so we don't have the impression of some bunkered feeling.

The end of the day has also come. We stop in Zaglav near Miholašćica.

Evening swim follows and a beautiful sunset. The day is ending...

GPS track of the third day. It added up to 38 km and 1300 m of elevation gain.

(+6)

miri29. 10. 2025 18:04:49

Congratulations on such descriptions.

(+2)

bagi29. 10. 2025 20:19:53

Thanks Miri. I have to write them down while the memories are still fresh nasmeh

(+2)

bagi30. 10. 2025 15:53:49

Fourth day ...

The previous day we parked a bit off the path, so in the morning we first returned to Via Apsyrtides. The nice and scenic path led us towards Miholašćica, from there we climbed on a rocky trail towards Stivan. That's obviously a newer addition, as on my digital map the route still goes along the main road. The continuation was along numerous roads, paths and trails with a common denominator ... comfortable nasmeh

. There was really little very rocky ground that day, which we more than made up for the next day.

In the scenic Uštrina we planned to stop at the refreshment spot, but it went bust and is permanently closed. A bit grumpy we continued and after good 15 km finally stopped in Osor. Here we chose the pleasant restaurant Orfej and in the deep shade of trees with cold drinks enjoyed the luxury of bare feet. Priceless velik nasmeh

. Meanwhile the smell of freshly baked pizza wafted from somewhere and we quickly ordered one too. Bullseye, the pizza was very tasty and incredibly cheap. We'll come back if we're ever in these parts again.

Then came the pivotal moment. We left one island and crossed the Osor Channel to the other. Cres and Lošinj were once one island until the Romans bit into the narrowest part and dug it through. Now there's a bridge here that lifts at certain hours for sailboats through the strait. We crossed it too and reached the Lošinj part of Via Apsyrtides. Next was the alpine traverse of Osoršćica, but we postponed it to the next day. There was no accommodation in Osor so we had to detour to Nerezine four kilometers away. We liked it so much there that we didn't regret the extra distance at all. Great day nasmeh

Morning in Zaglav. We leave a nicely maintained apartment that is still completely in the 80s style

Nothing strange. These used to be holiday facilities of Slovenian companies

We return to the point where we left Via Apsyrtides the previous day

The path runs right above the settlement where we slept

On the gentle path we continue towards Miholašćica

Everything is still closed there so we continue...

The path starts to climb parallel to the main road. Here the route has changed

In this part of Cres the sheep are more fenced in than around Beli, but not all

Both are our goal, but not as directly as the cyclist

We two go nicely along the marks. In this section the mountain and VA signs overlap densely

For the first time we see a sign like this. At first we think it was made by some mountain enthusiast

Beautiful trail, the terrain is made of some different rock than elsewhere

Hehe, he can't believe someone walks in such heat :)

Sheep smartly hide in the shade and scare passers-by, i.e. us :)

Tried and enjoyable, locals use it for schnapps

This is what we like about Via Apsyrtides. Even if we are not on the coast, we have a nice view of the sea

We are already in Ustrine. The shop is closed, there is no inn anymore. We go on …

The village has a nice view, since it lies less than 200 m above the sea

Follows almost 2 km of fairly flat gravel road

Yippee, another little box :) They are placed completely randomly in the middle of nowhere

One of many. We don't count them anymore :)

Today most of the trail is nicely walkable, with good and comfortable surface

Sage constantly accompanies us. There is a lot of it and it smells great, real aromatherapy :)

We're back on the rocky path, just so we don't forget walking on it :)

Interesting, lots of marks are painted on sawn-off branches

Island anthills. Ants fled into the ground from the heat, only small chimneys point to them

Somewhat comfortable and we even have shade

Signposts of this kind are quite standard and not the work of an individual, as we first thought

Access does exist, but not for tourists. Osor is nearby and probably pumps everything around

Osor, canal from Roman times that made two islands from one

Autocamp Preko Mosta. The path goes through here

Now it's serious. Ahead of us is the mountain traverse of Osoršćica

We're going a bit further in this direction...

Then we postpone it all to the next day and turn towards Nerezine

After good three kilometers we reach the first houses. Still one kilometer to the lodging

Nerezine. The village pleased us right away and we don't regret the extra kilometers at all

Also because of such peculiarities. :). Auntie was knitting almost to the top right before our hotel

GPS track of the hiked path. 31 km and 500 m elevation gain accumulated

(+6)

miri31. 10. 2025 10:57:08

Revival of these foggy days.

bos31. 10. 2025 16:23:58

Great, this Cres interests me. mežikanje

bagi5. 11. 2025 17:41:52

Fifth day ...

After an abundant breakfast at hotel Televrina we set off on the path, this time unexpectedly strenuous. As if it knew we had to eat well nasmeh

. First we returned from Nerezine to the point where we left Via Apsyrtides the previous day, then followed a pleasant ascent to the mountain hut Sveti Gaudent. On the way we met the warden who had already locked the hut and was returning to the valley. Friendly, he told us where to find refreshment for customers like us, then we said goodbye and each went their way.

After a short stop at the scenic hut we continued towards the summit Televrin, the highest point of Lošinj island and at the same time an excellent viewpoint. Even fixed cables lead up to it. The path there isn't too demanding, just a bit more rocky. But descending the opposite side is another story. Here it's all rocks, sharp and scattered, with deep scree everywhere. Caution is the rule here, good shoes mandatory, poles recommended. The terrain calms occasionally, but it quickly repeats. Several times. The info 5 hours to Čunski at Televrin seemed extremely odd at first, but after hours of rock hopping it proved realistic. Where was Mali Lošinj still eek

.

Anyway, we managed that too, especially because of the planned stop in Čunski. But the only konoba was closed, so no break, and on top someone stole our path velik nasmeh

. Right in that village we were supposed to turn to the coast, but the junction was fenced off. We were a bit surprised, but new VA markers on almost every roadside lamppost led us towards the main road. There it cut off as if sliced. For the next 4 km there was absolutely no marker, nor any path junction. Then watch out … suddenly markers appeared for over 100 m one after another, then total darkness again zmeden

. Nothing left for us but to follow the main road. But at the first possible junction, that is at camp Poljana, we turned onto the original coastal path, where we again met quite faded VA markers. Then just a walk to Prevlaka and the center of Mali Lošinj, where we slept this time. Definitely an interesting day nasmeh

Nerezine in the morning. Quite windy, it might come in handy today.

First we must return to the point where we left Via Apsyrtides yesterday.

We already know the path, but in the reverse direction the views are different too.

Here there are no VA markers yet, only classic mountaineering signs.

After four kilometers of return we finally arrive at the Osoršćica transvezal.

The path slowly rises and is purely mountaineering.

The walking surface is also quite solid. The path is well-frequented.

The *X* mark usually means wrong way for us, here it's a path junction.

Televrina … our direction and without *Climbing* :)

We continue ascending steadily, only the terrain has changed.

Even for the fatigued it's more than well taken care of :)

Diversion once more and not by chance the last :)

Mountain hut Sveti Gaudent, which was upgraded and renovated.

According to the warden, this is the only mountain hut on all Croatian islands.

He told us that left of the roses a liquid refreshment awaits us :)

The hut was an Italian observation post in the past and stands in a very panoramic position.

All along we were alone, now cyclists have also appeared.

Clear direction. Soon we leave the comfortable road and head up the slope.

Sympathetic. I have no complaints about the markings, they could be a model for many clubs.

Strong wind was more than welcome lower down, but here it is cold.

The path becomes rocky, as befits a summit :)

He, he ... even wire ropes here, and the section is called Slovenčica.

We are already on the highest peak of Lošinj.

This is Televrina, more than half a kilometer above sea level.

Islands around Lošinj, with the ancient name Apsyrtides.

On the lee side of the summit there is complete calm and we soon get hot.

Whaaat ... Čunski still a full 5 hours away. I can't believe it ...

Sv. Mikula is closer, just five minutes.

To there is the hardest part of all stages, pure rock n'roll.

Sharp stones without end, the path mostly goes right over them.

Apparently no mistake on the previous signpost. To Čunski still a good four hours.

The name is quite apt given the terrain we are walking on.

The ground improves for a while, but the wind in this maquis has completely died down.

Balm for at least some protection against the heat.

Surprisingly, even a small puddle in the sparse forest.

This is the only summit where we are not alone. The proximity of the starting point is noticeable.

We are still clambering over the rocks along which the Osoršćica traverse is routed.

We are again on the windy side of the ridge, which is very welcome …

Our bodies are now working only on air cooling :). The water has already run out.

It is really a great ordeal to get from Televrina here.

Finally we reach the service road, which for a while allows completely normal walking.

Even after the end of the road, the continuation is no longer as demanding as before.

Čunski. A few hours ago we were only dreaming of it :)

Info board too. In Čunski there is also a konoba, which unfortunately is not operating at the time of our passage.

The only major inconsistency of Via Apsyrtides. The passage to the coast is closed, the signs lead you to the main road.

Then for almost four kilometers there is no VA sign. We no longer think, we just walk …

And then suddenly some signs again, which soon disappear. Completely incomprehensible …

We have no other choice but to continue along the road. Mali Lošinj is already right in front of us.

In the Poljana autocamp, by our own choice we turn from the main road onto the original coastal path.

As expected, we encounter VA markings again here, only quite faded.

They are good. The waves occasionally cover them completely.

The Prekop Privlaka actually remakes two islands from one, just like Osor :)

It's time. Shadows are long, the day will soon say goodbye

Mali Lošinj, tourist-full little town. Not even mentioning the tavern next to tavern and 30% discounts :)

GPS track. 33 km and 900 elevation meters of the path have accumulated, which will remain in memory mainly due to the stones :)

(+6)

bos5. 11. 2025 21:02:59

Rocks

, really quite uncomfortable for walking.
Regarding the huts, there should be four on the islands.
Regarding the coastal path, I went to check the official site now for the 9th stage, on one map it's along the road, on the other along the sea ... I'll check the sea one next year. jezik

(+1)

bagi6. 11. 2025 05:44:35

Yes, regarding the huts the caretaker obviously wasn't well informed, consequently he sold us a load of nonsense velik nasmeh

.

But check that coastal path anyway. Personally I long thought that some angry local had stuck VA markers on lampposts on his own because of the path across his private land. It wasn't logical that there were no markings for so long after that. Besides, you'll find a stamp with number 9 along the coast, which doesn't exist in the road variant. We figured that out only the next day.

Another such inconsistency is on the way to Veli Lošinj. The markings lead you along the coast to similar terrain as from Televrina, but their original GPS track from the internet doesn't have that. Luckily the deviation was much smaller scale than walking on the road nasmeh

bagi7. 11. 2025 17:36:21

Sixth day ...

The sixth, final day of our journey through the islands of Cres and Lošinj arrived, and for the grand finale also across Ilovik island. The final goal Cape Radovan was a few days ago still far, far away, now it was within reach of our feet velik nasmeh

. But that day we set off much earlier than usual. The reason was limited time we had available. Twice limited. First we had to catch the local boat from Mrtvačka bay to Ilovik island, then also transport from Ilovik to Cres.

We knew the path mostly runs along the coast, but had no idea what kind it is. The first 11 km from Mali Lošinj to Sunčna bay, or FKK Beach was super OK, a real promenade. Later the path changed to all sorts of surfaces, from forest trail to rocky path. Here there's also a new VA path section that they don't have on the official site. It runs from Sunfarn bay to Skoranič bay, parallel to the marked *hiking* path, if you can call it that zavijanje z očmi

. Both are fully marked, just not much path, just hard-to-walk rocks. Why this change I have no idea, but it's the hardest part of the path to Veli Lošinj.

From Veli Lošinj to Mrtvačka bay it went much easier and we arrived at the boat embarkation point too quickly. Since we didn't want to wait, we arranged transport with the owner of a sea taxi. For a total of 15€ he took us to Ilovik, the regular ferry line came only an hour later. We spent that time exploring the village and found out that wheelbarrow drivers are at home here nasmeh

. They deliver all the goods with them, because there are no cars on the island. Anything motorized are just small tractors for field work that somehow got to the island.

After touring the village we continued. On nice paths we reached the final goal, Cape Radovan. There the last stamp with number 11 awaited us, info board about this southernmost point and of course joy that we managed to walk the entire path. Bravo us velik nasmeh

. A hug, obligatory photo and it was time to return. To the village it was along the same path, there we waited for the catamaran to Cres. It's for passenger transport only, punctual and departs quickly after arrival, so better arrive at the pier a bit early than late. But this kind of transport is very cheap, as we paid only 10€ for both to Cres.

For conclusion some general data ...

The entire Via Apsyrtides was very much to our liking mainly because of the mountainous character, friendly people, numerous hidden coves and crystal clear sea. On the entire path we encountered one snake, some deer, some rabbits and countless sheep. In addition, especially on Lošinj there are numerous wild boars that apparently migrate between islands (link). We didn't see any, but the results of their rooting are plentiful. Many parts of the path are like plowed.

Prices in shops are about the same as ours, Krk even higher for example. Accommodation price was from 60€ to 80€, mostly apartments, draft beer in catering places around 4€, a proper scoop of ice cream 2€, coffee 2.5€ and similar. Definitely nowhere excessive. Sea transports are a special chapter. We haven't traveled so cheaply anywhere, except Taxi boat on Ilovik. Definitely recommended transport option.

And just at the end ... highly recommend nasmeh