Shkaro - Recent messages

Access to the route is easiest through the Koče v Krnici huts. From Koča v Krnici go on the path towards Kriška stena and somewhere at 1750 m is the entrance to the route right into the north face of Razor. There are lots of options, but they depend mainly on the amount of snow in the rock. After the initial ramp we can traverse left or right to bypass the rocky barrier. A good landmark in the first part of the route is a large rocky tooth in the middle of the barrier. Above it you need to get to the first part of the rock to traverse left or right. After that a view opens to a large snow field, which needs to be traversed a bit right until the entrance to the hidden gully opens. If there's enough snow, better to go into the left gully and at its top go fully right along the rock to the airy ridge. Follow the airy ridge to the rock, when difficulties become too big and depending on snow amount descend the ridge and briefly traverse right before the gully opens on the left side which leads to the top of the rock. When you reach the end of the gully there are several options. This is the pure exit from the rock. You can head either right or left, depending on snow amount. Here roofs often form, so we must watch snow quality when coming out of the rock. When you leave the route, obligatorily congratulate your partners and continue towards Razor summit directly to the ridge. On this direct path we can be surprised by 2 rocky jumps (III, 3-4 m) before reaching the summit ridge. After the ridge top simply follow to the very summit. From the summit there are several descent options, choose them based on fitness and conditions. We chose descent to the col between Prisojnik and Razor and then south path to Vršič. Wonderful route! P.S. Slovenian is not my native language, so please admins correct grammatical errors.

On Sunday (11.01.2026) we decided on this less-visited part of KSA - the Za Vrati gully towards Planjava. Thanks to all the descriptions here we had no trouble finding the path to the gully. The snow was mixed - good in rare moments, mostly crumbly though, and given the forecast and sub-zero temperatures we didn't expect much better It was really cold as per forecast, but the warmest clothing layers stayed in the packs anyway. The gully itself is not demanding and in better snow conditions it's very quickly passable. We exited via Vrata saddle and continued towards Planjava across Planjava meadows. The idea was to try the SSW ridge, but conditions weren't good, so after a short gully we headed towards the East summit of Planjava. A strong north wind was blowing, but being on the south side, we were protected, so only occasional weaker gusts hit us. We descended through Repov kot without issues and the descent went smoothly - two short traverses were snow-covered and could be crossed slowly and safely. We reached Kamniška Bistrica exactly 10 hours after starting in the morning so headlamps stayed in the packs. I was surprised by the beauty of this area and I'll definitely return to connect the gully with the ridge to the West summit of Planjava... and beyond

Attaching some photos from July 19, 2025. Three people ahead of us each had an ice axe and crampons and got through normally. There were some without gear who turned back.

@Arsu 30.05. Went up from that side. The path is normally passable, upper part (gully) still has snow, but doable without winter gear.

Hi, we were on Sunday (21.05.2023.) on Prisojnik and descended over the ridge. Still plenty of snow, more noticeable towards Vršič and Mlinarica. Avalanches flying all day on the south side. I don't know, I'm not smart - really wouldn't say it's safe to go.

Only I don't understand... from this post with photos that vividly showed some the current condition at that moment in those areas, over 15 comments accumulated, mostly unrelated to current condition in the same area. Really came to forum just for that, to see current state in Alps and return same info I get from you (if I have). For me good overview of something no one wrote about for months... also photos that came with it. If wrong, obviously something wrong with me

Super, bravo

Bravo guys, congratulations

Bravo! This is really excellent and detailed description of this rarely visited ridge. Whoever decides to repeat the ridge now has at least an idea how passable it is. Laško at the end like cherry on the cake

And from there on to Vrbanove Špice

Wow...super..bravo

Bravo, great tour!

Beautiful beautiful tour, bravo doctor!

Serious tour... bravo Deyan!

I know that a group of Croats went through the Turkish couloir yesterday (22.1.2022) and from the photos it seems the conditions are excellent. Went up and down the same path.

Juš - yeah, very interesting ridge
Tone, last year we had similar conditions on Turn pod Razorom, so it was some kind of anniversary
Thanks doctor