Dr.ejči - Recent messages

Prle about Begunjščica: "For me less to medium attractive mountain. On two visits I've always wondered what the hell I'm doing up there. The answer was and is: sometimes you have to eat bread and water too. Doesn't hurt, in certain moments even helps. The summit ridge is nice and elevated in its own way with similar feelings. But everyone discourages the full ridge traverse, even an ace like Tačrn."
But I like Begunjščica. Although it's like above BTC, you can find numerous hidden corners, even first ascents that don't attract most except "crazy" scree dwellers. And for me that's not bread and water, but delicious dessert.
When I first explored the area, I skipped the strict start and climbed the scree gully left of Sestopna to the saddle and started "ridge hopping" there. This variant is better for haters of "Lego" blocks. Next time with buddy, in more compact season (read winter), we turned onto grassy traverse above "hollow", strictly left to ridge. Here is the "party". And this time intensified. Everything you grab is "to go". Ambience phenomenal if you like it. Scrambling really no harder than II, but all one big rolling. Afraid we collapsed half Begunjščica? Higher terrain improves, replaced by mix of fallen trees, forest and bushes. In the latter two logging is evident, just watch the key passage through bushes at top of Sestopna, where you go up and step to the right side, to the boundary between bushes and wall. (First try a path left to traverse misled me, followed by 1.5h swimming in bushes). Ridge not too hard, except double tower where you can complicate life. First one I haven't climbed yet, this time up gully between both. Right side of second has psychedelic traverse I'll do someday "when I'm big", but need downclimb about 10m (II-III?). We bailed to the left from bushes. (With 60m one could descend right to chimney start, with 30m we had to because I didn't dare the slab traverse, had to traverse awkwardly. Piton left). Around both bypass left along wall through chimney up. Further mostly green sea. Calvary ends at grassy saddle where probably a hunting path leads? (guess). Then just a walk to Begunjska Vratača.
Prle's rating: "800m, II, 2h. Access via scree before tunnel to crumbly, friable, bushy, unpleasant, slightly risky and hard-to-pass ridge. Up it seeking easiest passages..."
Mine: didn't measure length, harder than II no, time... well, we took 5h to Begunjska Vratača. (Continuation to summit and descent NW ridge skipped as dense crowd gathered on top, we preferred the one with hop flavor. So down "Šentanc express").
Recommend only to "fools and horses", scree sadomasochists, lovers of "Lego" blocks and "green sea".

Because I'm a scree-lover at heart, exploring pathless terrain draws me... scree, thorns, brush, scrambling on "suspicious" rock,... in short, a world less enjoyable for many ... after canyons on the left side of Baška, ridges on the right were next... first I searched for Tri leta and Sestopni greben for three years ... because towards the end of the descent I bypassed it a bit (according to the sketch), since I judged it much steeper than III, I went, for "penance" , also up Greben Gor ... Tri leta seems to me, of these three, the longest, most varied and also hardest?... you can adjust the difficulty on the fly ... Sestopni is the scree-iest and unfriendliest, except for the fantastic slab ... and as I scrambled up the Greben, a tower on the left leaning against the ridge caught my eye... since "approach" directly on it is absolutely not in my abilities, I checked it from the side... from Greben I descended to the gully and across it to the rock ledge (III)... over it then, via groove, to the notch... from the notch, along the ledge around the corner and via groove to the top (II-III)... since during climbing I banged my knee quite a bit, for safety I made an anchor at the top and rappelled back to the notch on the rope... from the notch I then climbed straight up and joined the Greben... this new "addition", I can name Greben Variant?... from the top the descent to the "oasis" followed ... during the descent I greeted, from afar, a like-minded person who was scrambling along the edge, left of Nova?... hmmmm... during the late-morning snack and short "siesta" I stared at the dark ledge ... (maybe the like-minded person started on it??)... when I checked it closer, it turned out to be a quite interesting ramp... the start was very promising , but a bit higher... troubles ... on the smooth slab my gojzars started slipping a lot, although extremely rough, sharp rock prevails everywhere... and then that moment again... just one move and I slip... and the longer I delay, the harder it is... it pumps my calves, but I make it to the tree ... well, that part gave me wind ... in the continuation nice scrambling and connection to Nova... this route is not mentioned anywhere, could it be Rampa?? (from the beach, especially in the afternoon, it is nicely visible)... and so, again on top, I didn't know whether to descend Dol or Gor , I descended half via Dol, turned left towards Gor and finished somewhere in between, at the marked path ... satisfied I note that the entire sector is extremely friendly to the scree-lover ...

I enjoyed it for you, Andrej (and Čuvi was with me)

Then, this one!...Because this is local and also the real Little Ponca

Zeleniške Spires start at Rigeljc, if orthodox, according to Bela, looking at the whole ridge, of course at Mešenik ...and if no posts, doesn't mean we don't go

With Ship or without, Nevenka, this is only half of the Zeleniške Spires

The two of us, with my friend, spiced it up even more (supposedly the only ones so far?), starting in Planica, past the ski jump, over Kucerjev ridge, to Little Rateška Ponca, along S ridge to High, Middle, Rear, Strug, Vevnica (not on the secured one), V Koncu peak, Kotova peak and from Kotovo saddle to Tamar... exactly 24 hours

Picture 19, Šilovec...at least according to my knowledge and map

The ridge variant over Ivje doesn't disappoint either

Right, Macesna, it's the S ridge of Veliki vrh (Begunjščica), which almost everyone has "passed by", so between Šentanski and Centralni chute. But harder than SW ridge.

Of course it's Begunjščica, we've been twice already (Štanske and B.V.) very close, this time NW ridge even closer, but not the right one

No... you're getting farther

No, not Štanske čeri, although similarly crumbled ...will it be a bit easier now?

Very hot, Bojan!..Upper Plot is more or less a tower that has no particular ridge

Not that either (it's oriented the same as Na Možeh)...we're not far off though

No.

No...the sun doesn't shine on them at such an angle

Primož meant above Gamsovo okno, right?
Let's stay on ridges...Which?