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News / Olympic Atmosphere at the World Cup in Sport Climbing in Koper

Olympic Atmosphere at the World Cup in Sport Climbing in Koper

3.09.2024
This weekend, Koper is once again expecting a sport climbing spectacle that will conjure up a true Olympic atmosphere on the Coast. At the World Cup (WC) in lead climbing, numerous Olympians will compete, including both Olympic champions, Janja Garnbret and the Briton Toby Roberts, as well as Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar, who also represented Slovenia in Paris. The Slovenian national team will perform in a strong 18-member lineup, knowing that the boisterous home audience can give them wings. The rich accompanying program will excite the wider public on September 6 and 7 as well.

Koper is hosting the World Cup in lead climbing on home soil for the third year in a row, which will bring the biggest names in sport climbing to the Coast on September 6 and 7. The 28th World Cup competition organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia and under the auspices of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) will again be held on the outdoor climbing wall of the Climbing Center Koper - Plus climbing.

134 competitors from 29 countries are registered for the competition. 68 women and 66 men will thrill the audience with their climbing at the highest level for two days. Among them will be both this year's Olympic champions, the unbeatable Janja Garnbret and the Briton Toby Roberts, the Austrian Jessica Pilz, bronze medalist in Paris, and many other Olympians, including our Mia Krampl and Luka Potočar, so almost an Olympic atmosphere is expected.

"The Slovenian national team will perform in a large and strong lineup of eleven girls and seven boys. In addition to our Olympians and regular national team members, we have decided to give an opportunity to the younger generation of competitors from the youth national team, as some individuals can already achieve top results in the senior competition. I think the competition is really top-class, this year the route-setting team is different, the main route-setter is Hiroshi Okano, who also designed the competition routes at the World Championships in Bern. The World Cup continues with the FISU World Championship in all disciplines, which means the bustling climbing event will last until September 12. We keep our fingers crossed for Slovenian performances, a massive and cheering audience, and nice weather," invited the assistant coach and trainer of the Slovenian national team Luka Fonda to Koper.

In addition to Janja Garnbret, Mia Krampl, and Luka Potočar, Sara Čopar, Vita Lukan, Lucija Tarkuš, Jennifer Buckley, Rosa Rekar, Lana Skušek, Katja Debevec, Zala Mlakar Starič, and Lana Gorič will also compete in Koper, as well as Lovro Črep, Martin Bergant, Milan Preskar, Gorazd Jurekovič, Luka Jerman, and Samo Golob.

The top name of the Koper competition will be the double Olympic champion and last year's winner Janja Garnbret, who, a month after her hard-earned success, is still reliving her dramatic victory in Paris: "It's always nice to remember, and I have to admit that I still relive everything that happened in Paris. I am proud and happy that I managed to achieve the goal and win the second gold medal." After the Olympic Games, she treated herself to a break from competitive pressure and expectations in a natural rock wall: "After the games, I first dedicated some time to rest, honestly. Already before Paris, I wanted to dedicate more time and attention to rock climbing after the games. I waited a long time for this opportunity and time. Whether I gained strength, I don't know, I lost some too, because it's a kind of training. In any case, I'm glad I went rock climbing. Perhaps this isn't the classic training for the Koper competition, but after the Olympic Games, pressures, and expectations, I think training in the hall would essentially be impossible. I needed something different, some challenging routes in the rock for the soul. I climbed quite a few challenging routes. I believe that even without classic training, I can show the audience in Koper what I can do," we can believe the 25-year-old from Koroška, who will also bring the Olympic spirit to the Coast: "I really hope and believe that the atmosphere this year will be even better than the last two years. Slovenians are known for creating a fantastic atmosphere at sports events. I know that we female and male climbers will try to put on a real show."

At the European Championship in Villars, Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) performed excellently, achieving the success of her career with two fourth places - in lead and combined. "The podium slipped away by a hair, but I'm still very proud of both results. I'm especially proud of my climbing, particularly in the lead semifinal, in the final the dot on the i was missing, but I'm very satisfied with everything I showed. The fourth place in combined the next day was a bit more bittersweet, but only because it was right the next day," she relives her bittersweet success, the seven-time youth world champion (twice in lead, once in boulder, and four times in combined), who with her achievement at the EC proved the correctness of her decision to prioritize the senior European Championship over the youth world one this year, which were simultaneous. Not only a successful jump to seniors, this year she also completed her matura, she will continue her education in Izola, where she will study physiotherapy, and she remains focused on training and climbing. The 19-year-old from Laško wants to show her excellent lead form in front of the home audience: "In Villars, honestly, I surprised myself a bit, I got confirmation that my form is good, and I will definitely want to show such climbing in Koper too. This confirmation is very important to me, now I know I must not be nervous, I have to be focused, and then I believe I can show good climbing and achieve a good result."

Last year, Vita Lukan (ŠPO PD Radovljica) rejoiced in a bronze medal in Koper, but unfortunately this year she can't find the right rhythm. "This season is really not unfolding according to my wishes. The goal of the season was the Olympic Games, but after unsuccessful qualifications, I can't put myself together anymore; both physically and mentally. More than the poor result at the European Championship, I'm disappointed with my climbing throughout the season. We'll have to analyze everything and change certain things so that next year I can compete for more prominent placements again," said the 23-year-old from Radovljica, who wants loud cheering support in Koper: "At this moment, I have to focus on showing my maximum in front of the home fans regardless of my current form. For the Koper competition, I have no result goal, I just want as much audience support as possible."

There is no need to fear for the future of Slovenian sport climbing either. At the recent Youth World Championship in China, Jennifer Buckley (PK Scena) became the youth world champion in lead, bouldering, and combined among cadets under 18, while junior Rosa Rekar (PK FA), who drew attention this year with fourth place at the World Cup in Briançon, won the title of youth world champion in lead climbing in the under-20 category. This title represents not just a result achievement for her: "The biggest progress I made was in the mental area. I learned better to manage stress and pressure. In addition, I gained a lot of experience from each competition." The competition in the Slovenian youth national team is very strong and healthy among girls, and at the same time, they have an exceptional role model. "The entire senior team is a great role model for me, and with their performances at competitions, they definitely give me additional encouragement. I know they train a lot for these achievements, and that additionally motivates me to give my all at trainings," emphasized the 18-year-old sport climber from Žirovnica. For the future student of food and nutrition at the Biotechnical Faculty, coordinating school and trainings sometimes presented quite a challenge, she had to learn time organization and ongoing work. But before starting her studies, she is looking forward to the Koper challenge, where last year she experienced her debut performance among seniors: "I'm very looking forward to the competition in Koper, especially because it's at home and friends and family can come to cheer me on, which means a lot to me."

At the first WC competition in Koper in 2022, Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica) celebrated, who is also the first Slovenian male representative in sport climbing at the Olympic Games, where he achieved 16th place, and concluded the recent European Championship as fourth in combined and fifth in lead. "It's hard to say I'm satisfied and motivated. I'm glad because the next competition is at home and in front of the home audience, as that's definitely a big motivation to perform in Koper again. In lead at the EC, points accumulated quickly at the top, unfortunately I fell a move before that part and that's where the medal went," he explained after the night arrival from Switzerland. The lead specialist has dedicated himself to bouldering in recent years due to Olympic dreams: "I won't lie that I enjoy bouldering training and I will definitely continue with it. I'm satisfied with the progress, but I think there's still a lot of room for improvement. Physical strength and good feelings are of course desirable in lead too, I don't mind that, so in the future I'll continue training bouldering, but probably won't compete anymore." The 22-year-old from Jesenice, after good climbing at the European Championship, is already eagerly awaiting the home competition: "After a long time, I was able to give everything on the wall. That wasn't enough in the World Cups this year. The form is worse than at the beginning of the season, but I believe that with fighting on the wall and good climbing without mistakes, I can continue the streak of finals in Koper. Of course, I want to climb again in front of the home audience, which I believe will - as always - help me."

The organizational manager of the WC competition in Koper, Matej Planko, announces that on Friday and Saturday in Koper, not only a top sport climbing spectacle is expected, but also a rich accompanying program with a mini Olympics, climbing on a mobile climbing wall, climbing kindergarten, program at stands, and excellent music with a DJ. PRVA, the general sponsor of the Slovenian sport climbing national team and the event, rewarded loyal visitors, gave commemorative T-shirts to the first 500 ticket buyers, and enabled them to watch the competition from a special front spot.

Koper 2024 World Cup Competition in Lead Climbing


Friday, September 6
9:00-15:00 qualifications
9:00-12:00 program for primary schools and youth with Mini Olympics
9:00-13:00 climbing on mobile climbing wall
17:00-19:30 program at stands and music program with DJ
20:00 semifinal
22:00-24:00 program at stands and music program with DJ



Saturday, September 7
17:00-19:30 program at stands and music program
17:30-19:30 Telekom climbing kindergarten
19:30 final opening
20:00 final
22:00-24:00 program at stands and music program with DJ

In addition, Planko added that adults will pay 20 euros for the final ticket and children 10 euros, for the semifinal 10 or 5 euros, with PZS members and residents of the City Municipality of Koper having an additional discount. All information is available at the web address vstopnice.pzs.si, where you can also buy them with all the mentioned discounts. This year too, there is great interest in VIP tickets at 95 euros, which provide a seat near the climbing wall, free parking, and catering.

The Saturday final will be broadcast live on TV Slovenia's program 2. The media sponsor of WC Koper 2024 is Val 202. The general sponsor of WC Koper 2024 is Prva personal insurance company, major sponsors are the Slovenian Tourist Board, Telekom Slovenije, Adidas, the co-organizer of the event is the Institute for Sport of the City Municipality of Koper.

The Deputy Mayor of the City Municipality of Koper, Jasna Softić, expressed enthusiasm that Koper is the venue for the World Cup competition for the third time. The President of the Organizing Committee, Adimir Preradović, invited to the FISU World University Championship in sport climbing, which will be in Koper from September 8 to 12. The championship will be in all three disciplines, lead, speed, and bouldering, and they also expect the silver Olympian in speed.

We look forward to your presence at the World Cup competition in sport climbing in Koper. For more information, visit the official website worldcupslo.com and follow us on social networks.
         
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