The Most Successful Alpinists and Sport Climbers 2013

Yesterday, February 26, 2014, the Alpinism-Climbing Evening took place in Cankarjev dom in Ljubljana as part of the 8th International Mountain Film Festival, featuring the solemn announcement and award ceremony for the most successful alpinists and sport climbers for the greatest achievements in alpinism and sport climbing in 2013. The highest awards were received by: Anastasija Davidova (best female alpinist), Luka Krajnc (best male alpinist), Mina Markovič (best female sport climber) and Domen Škofic (best male sport climber), as well as Tone Škarja, the award for lifetime achievement in the field of alpinism.



The Alpinism-Climbing Evening is organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia and its Alpinism Commission and Sport Climbing Commission of the PZS. The purpose of the selection is primarily to evaluate and appraise the highest quality alpinistic ascents and top sport climbing achievements and to present the best achievements of our alpinists and sport climbers from the past year to the wider public.

With this event, the Alpine Association has also rounded off the year-long celebration of the 120th anniversary of organized mountaineering in Slovenia and the founding of the Slovenian Mountaineering Society (1893–2013), whose successor is the Alpine Association of Slovenia. The celebration began on the day of the SPD's founding on February 27, 2013, with the unveiling of a memorial plaque on the facade of Nama in the center of Ljubljana, where the SPD was founded, and with a ceremonial academy on the same day. Throughout the year, an exceptional number of interesting events took place, involving numerous mountaineering clubs, inter-club committees of mountaineering clubs, PZS commissions, and individuals.

The numerous attendees at the announcement of the most successful were greeted at the beginning by the president of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, Bojan Rotovnik. In his address, he emphasized the broadly branched activities of the PZS, which are visible in many areas, with special attention given to alpinism and sport climbing. "Slovenia has long gained the status of one of the great powers in the world mountaineering community, as the successes of our alpinists and sport climbers in the field of classical and sport climbing are known worldwide. The list of names of successful Slovenian alpinists and sport climbers is long and is supplemented year after year. Despite the fact that the Slovenian territory is geographically small and barely recognizable or even unknown to many, young climbers quickly tried out the novelties that came to Europe from the American continent in the seventies of the last century. Free climbing flourished, climbing on frozen waterfalls, climbing in a combination of rock and ice. Alpinists are recognizable abroad, but the challenge is to achieve greater recognition in Slovenia, just as it is a challenge to establish a senior national team after the Slovenian Youth Alpinist National Team. I am pleased by the exceptional successes in sport climbing, where I see that climbers always have opportunities to improve their results and achieve excellent results," said President Rotovnik.



THE MOST SUCCESSFUL in 2013

The most successful female alpinist in 2013 is Anastasija Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica).

The most successful male alpinist in 2013 is Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje – Matica).

The most promising alpinist in 2013 is Martin Žumer (AO PD Radovljica).



The most successful female sport climber in 2013 is Mina Markovič (PK 6b Ptuj).

The most successful male sport climber in 2013 is Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica).



For the first time, the AWARD FOR LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT IN THE FIELD OF ALPINISM was awarded, received by Tone Škarja (AO PD Kamnik), an alpinistic and expedition leader, for whom the entire alpinistic community was united that he more than deserves the award. More on the PZS website >>>.



AWARDS FOR SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENTS IN ALPINISM were received by: Andrej Grmovšek* (AO APD Kozjak Maribor), Domen Kastelic (Akademski AO), Janez Svoljšak (AO PD Kranj), Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje – Matica), Marko Prezelj (AO PD Kamnik), Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik), Tina Di Batista (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica), Tomaž Jakofčič (Akademski AO).

* on the proposal of KA PZS



RECOGNITIONS TO SPORT CLIMBERS FOR TOP ACHIEVEMENTS IN COMPETITIONS were received by: Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje – Matica), Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka) and Maja Vidmar (PK Škofja Loka).



RECOGNITIONS TO PROMISING SPORT CLIMBERS for results at the world and European youth championships: Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka), Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), Matic Kotar (ŠPO PD Rašica), Sara Lukič (Šaleški AO), Anže Peharc (ŠPO PD Tržič).



RECOGNITION TO THE COACHES OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL FEMALE AND MALE SPORT CLIMBER, which are: Roman Krajnik (PK Škofja Loka), coach of Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber for 2013 and also coach of the national senior team, and Uroš Grilc (ŠPO PD Radovljica), coach of Domen Škofic, the most successful male sport climber for 2013.



The FAIR PLAY RECOGNITION was awarded for the first time this year, and it was received by Anže Štremfelj (PD Kranj) for a fair play move when, as a coach at the state championship competition, he pointed out to the judge the mistake of his competitor in improper clipping. With this, Anže showed his sports spirit and consistent respect for the rules and self-control both in victory and defeat.



The Alpinism-Climbing Evening 2014 took place as part of the 8th International Mountain Film Festival Domžale (IMFFD), February 24–28, 2014. The Society for Mountain Culture, organizer of the 8th IMFFD, prepared a cultural program at the award ceremony, in which the audience watched the following interesting short films from this year's IMFFD: Lone Wolf, The Last Great Climb, Petzl Project

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STATEMENTS:

Anastasija Davidova, the most successful female alpinist in 2013. Nastja, congratulations. After 2011, you are again the most successful female alpinist in Slovenia. What impressed you the most about 2013?

Definitely the ascent of Fitz Roy, which I really wanted to climb someday. I am especially happy that I succeeded with my climbing partner, Tina, so we were both girls and both ready to invest everything with joint forces for success. Each gave her all and we managed to reach the top. This will definitely stay in my memory the most. The free repetition of the Bonington route in the Freney Pillars on Mont Blanc also means a lot to me. Really beautiful work, all praise to the author, especially for that time.



Mina Markovič, the most successful female sport climber in 2013. Mina, congratulations on the fourth consecutive title of the most successful female sport climber for the past year. What do you think about the recognition and do you see any younger climber who could become competition for these recognitions?

Thank you for the recognition and congratulations. Although it's already the fourth recognition, it's nice to get it every year, to remember the past year. Although preparations are already in full swing, this gives an extra pinch of motivation for the new season, so that it will be another such season or even better – because it can always be better. But there are certainly young competitors who work and climb very well and I can hardly wait to see them in the place where I am now. But I certainly won't give in easily (laughter).



Domen Škofic, the most successful male sport climber in 2013. For the second time in a row, you became the most successful male sport climber in the past year. What does the recognition mean to you? Do you think the backup of sport climbers is so strong that someone could soon take this recognition from you in the future?

Definitely, I am happy about this recognition. Because, as you say, there are many guys who are on my heels or are equal to me, they just need to realize it in competitions. Each of us strives for these successes and I hope it will continue like this. So yes, I am happy about the recognition.



Tone Škarja, award for lifetime achievement in the field of alpinism. Sincere congratulations on the award, it was the real gem of the evening. What does the award mean to you?

Thank you for the congratulations. I must say it was a complete surprise when I discovered it on the PZS web portal. After the surprise and enthusiasm, when I drew the line, I can now calmly say that this is my most important and highest recognition that I have received for alpinism in all my years of alpinism, in my life. First, because it was awarded by the alpinistic community, that is, those who know alpinism, the Himalaya, etc., the best. At the same time, they are the most critical among themselves, and such an award is hard to get. But I received the first award for lifetime achievement in alpinism that has ever been awarded to anyone. Second, because it is an activity that is in a way undervalued among Slovenes in other areas as well. We give too little importance to those who know how to organize the work of others, and that is what is important, which was also the case with expeditions. It is also important in society and beyond. We have beautiful craftsmen – also among alpinists, but we have extremely few of those who would know how to bring craftsmen together for joint work at a higher level, so also in the country. That's why it means so much to me – because it shows both, it shows that alpinists have overcome their rivalry; and that they were aware of what it means. And in general, in sports this year at the Olympic Games, the team, group spirit was strongly shown.



Luka Krajnc, the most successful alpinist for 2013, member of the Slovenian Youth Alpinist National Team (SMAR). He is currently on exchange in Japan with SMAR, so he did not attend the event. He is one of the best Slovenian top alpinists of the new generation. His annual list of the hardest routes is exceptional. He climbs both rock and mixed routes at a high level. He started 2013 excellently with a new difficult route on Patagonian Fitz Roy, continued with big Alpine walls, and ended the season with the SMAR expedition in Tibet.

The most promising alpinist for 2013 Martin Žumer, also a member of SMAR, is just like Luka in Japan with SMAR, on exchange with young Japanese alpinists whom SMAR hosted last winter in Slovenia.



EXPLANATIONS

THE MOST SUCCESSFUL in ALPINISM in 2013

The expert commission that made the selection of the best and most promising alpinists consisted of experienced alpinists from different generations who know the conditions in Slovenian and world alpinism: Andrej Štremfelj, Matej Kladnik, Milan Romih, Peter Mežnar, Tadej Debevec, Tanja Grmovšek, Tone Škarja, Urban Ažman and Urban Golob. They did demanding work, as the ascents and climbed routes in 2013 were also excellent.



The head of the Alpinism Commission PZS Miha Habjan said about the criteria and selection: "The main criteria for the selection were excellence, first ascent, idea and choice of objective, boldness and adventure, and of course the manner of the ascent. Strictly, priority was given to ascents that deviated from last year's average of the best ascents and ascents of truly proper alpinistic character. The selected most successful alpinists received a convincing majority of votes. This year too, individuals were selected who markedly marked the past year with one or more top ascents. These alpinists were awarded the award for special achievements in alpinism. Some were proposed and selected by the selection group, some we added at KA PZS. This year we also awarded the award for lifetime achievement in the field of alpinism for the first time. Comparison of alpinistic ascents and their evaluation is always difficult and thankless task, this year it was the same. Our selection is not the absolute truth and I hope we all realize that. The selection is only the best approximation, for which we tried our best. In the end, I wish all awardees and nominees in 2014 to surpass last year's achievements and always return home safely."



Most successful female alpinist – Anastasija Davidova (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica)

Nastja Davidova is one of the best Slovenian female alpinists of the recent period. She mainly focuses on rock climbing, but winter – mixed climbing is not foreign to her. In 2013, she participated in an expedition to Patagonia, where she made an excellent ascent on Fitz Roy, continued with climbing at home and in the Dolomites in the summer, and crowned the season with an excellent free ascent in the Freney Pillars. Nastja continues the tradition of high climbing level of Slovenian women's alpinism.

• Fitz Roy, Afanassieff (Filo Noroeste), 6a+/A0, 1600 m, third female ascent Mermoz, Via Argentina, 6a+, 600m

• Mont Blanc, Freney face, »Bonington«, 7a+, 500 m+ 200 m, OS

• Šite, Debela Berta, VIII+, 500 m, RP

• Cima Ovest, »Cassin-Ratti«, 7a, 450 m, OS

• Marmolada, »Schwalbenschwanz«, VI, 800 m, OS

• Marmolada, Gogna, 7, 800 m, OS

• Meisules dla Biesces, »Alfa e Omega«, VIII+/IX-, 200 m

• Sass Pordoi, »4 giorni un estate«, 7a, 600 m, OS

• Aig. Croux, »Que cherches tu Jean-Marie«, 6c, 320 m, OS



Most successful male alpinist – Luka Krajnc (AO PD Celje – Matica)

Luka Krajnc is one of the best Slovenian top alpinists of the new generation. His annual list of the hardest routes is exceptional. He climbs both rock and mixed routes at a high level. He started 2013 excellently with a new difficult route on Patagonian Fitz Roy, continued with big Alpine walls, and ended the season with an expedition to Tibet. We will follow Luka's alpinistic path with interest in the future as well.

• Patagonia, Fitz Roy, E wall, The Real Kekec, 6c+, A2, 1300 m, 5 days, 800 m FA.

• Patagonia, Cerro Torre, SE ridge, 7b, WI5, A1, 1200 m, 2 days, 2nd ascent after removal of most bolts

• Dauphine, Rateau, Le empire des sons, M6, 550 m, OS/Flash, 14 h, 1. RP

• Patagonia, S tower Paine, Zuko traverse, 6b+, 650 m, 8 h, FA.

• Dauphine, La Meije, Z Couloir direct, M6, 800 m, OS/Flash, 12 h

• Patagonia, El Mocho, Dulce de leche, 7a, 800 m, 9h, FA.

• Vršac, Zaprti oddelek, VIII+/IX-, 900m, 16h, 300 m FA.

• Dolomites, Marmolada, Modern times, VIII-, 850 m, 14 h,

• Chamonix needles, Freney+needle traverse, V+, M, 2000 m, 2 days

• Himalaya, Ice tooth, North couloir, 60˚, 900 m, 2 days



Most promising alpinist – Martin Žumer (AO PD Radovljica)

Martin Žumer is a representative of the young generation of Slovenian promising alpinists. Perhaps it is not a coincidence, as he comes from AO Radovljica, where excellent alpinists come from by tradition. In 2013, he was one of the few Slovenian alpinists who climbed in the highest walls of our mountains in winter. He climbed at a high level in summer as well, went on an expedition to Tibet in autumn, and ended the season again with a classic winter repetition in our walls.

• Triglav, Čop pillar, V+, A1, 100 m, 19 h, WP

• Šite, JLA, M6, A1, 350 m, 2 days

• Debela peč, Lessi returns, VIII/VI, 500 m, 9 h, 1. RP

• Martuljek, Louis Cifer, M8-, 100 m, lead, 3 h

• Begunjska Vrtača, Vertigo world, M6, 400 m, 4 h

• Anića Kuk, Yellow fear, 7c, 200 m, 6h, lead

• Petit Dru, Allain-Leinenger, VI, 800 m, 13 h

• Tibet, Ice Tooth (6200m), E pillar, TD, V+, 900 m, 2 days, FA.

• Šite, Herlc-Kočevar, M5+, 500 m, 9 h

• Martuljek, Mokre peči, Three confused days, M7, WI6, 100 m, first in rope, 2 h



Award for lifetime achievement in the field of alpinism – Tone Škarja (AO PD Kamnik), more about it on >>>.



Andrej Grmovšek (AO APD Kozjak Maribor), award for special achievements

Andrej Grmovšek is certainly one of the best rock climbers of the recent period. His list of annual routes is always astonishing. In 2013, he started the season in Patagonia, then excellently continued the rock season, among other things with the first repetition of the legendary Root in the Wall.

• Root, VIII+, 1000 m, OS/or flash

• Torre Norte (Paine), Zuko traverse, V 5.10+, 650 m, 8 h, FA

• Predostenje Križevnika, Lightning, IX-, R, 220 m, FA.

• Križevnik, Beauty flaw, VIII, 230 m, OS, FA

• Marmolada, Millenium, IX+ ( IX-), 160 m

• Meisules dla Biesces, Alfa e Omega, VIII+/IX-, 200 m

• Vežica, Black Cat, VIII+, 250 m, OS



Domen Kastelic (Akademski AO), award for special achievements

Domen Kastelic has greatly raised the level of his alpinistic ascents in recent years. It is truly encouraging how boldly and straightforwardly he tackles the largest Alpine walls. It was the same in 2013. After good ascents at home and in the Alps, he crowned the season with a new route on a Nepalese six-thousander.

• Nepal-Rolwaling, Kang Nachugo (6650 m), SW wall, Monsoon, 75˚,1500 m, 17 h, FA.

• Les Drus, North Couloir, ED, VI/A1/5/M6, 850 m, 16 h

• MKM+Šite+Devil pillar, Gilberti+Belač-Zupan+Devil pillar, V+, 800 + 500 + 550, linking ascent, 16 h from Belopeška lakes to Vršič

• Les Droites, Jackson, ED, V/5+/M5, 1000 m, all lead, 9 h

• Šite, Debela Berta, VIII+, 500 m, RP, 10 h

• Bosconero, S wall, Futuro Incerto, VIII, 650 m, OS, 9 h



Janez Svoljšak (AO PD Kranj), award for special achievements

Janez Svoljšak is a representative of the youngest generation of Slovenian promising alpinists. He has already drawn attention to himself in previous years, in 2013 he steeply raised his climbing level and especially in the summer rock season strung a series of excellent difficult free repetitions. He complemented the season with good results in competitive ice climbing.

• Triglav, Jug pillar with Sphinx face, XI/VII,V-/IV, 950 m, first in rope, 12 h

• Triglav, On the other side of time with Čop pillar, VIII/VII,VI+/V, 1000 m, RP, 10 h

• 11.8.2013, Ojstrica, Nejč route, VII+, 500 m, OS, climbed as first, 12 h, 3rd A

• Vežica, Black cat, VIII/VII, 200 m, OS, first in rope, 2.5 h

• Dolomites, Sella towers (Meisules), Via Dolomiue, VIII/VI, 250 m, OS, 5 h

• Vežica, Perčič pillar, VIII-/VI, 150 m, OS, climbed alternately, 3 h

• Šite, Pillar, VIII-/VI, 500 m, OS, first in rope,8 h

• Kogel, Amonit,VIII-/VII, 250 m , 7h, Tine Marenče

• Marmolada, Modern times, VII+/VIII-, 850 m, OS, 12 h

• Bad Gastein, Supervisior, WI6, 270 m, RP, 5 h

• Results in competitive ice climbing:

3rd place: World Youth Championship U22, Saas Grund, Switzerland and

8th place: World Cup competition, Kirov 2013, Russia (1st placement in the final at World Cup competitions).



Marko Prezelj (AO PD Kamnik) and Tomaž Jakofčič (Akademski AO), award for special achievements

Marko Prezelj and Tomaž Jakofčič are top alpinists who have been climbing at a very high level for many years. In 2013, they joined forces and with a sharpened sense for new lines climbed two new modern first ascent routes in the north Triglav wall. Tomaž added to the two from Triglav another new route in Tofana Di Rozes.

• Triglav, Mountaineering grab, VII+/VIII-, A1, 1000 m, FA

• Triglav, Hook VIII-, 1000 m, FA

• Tofana Di Rozes, Vidia, VIII+, 450 m, 9 h, FA. (Tomaž Jakofčič)



Luka Lindič (AO PD Celje – Matica), award for special achievements

Luka Lindič is a representative of the younger generation of modern Slovenian alpinists who performs a series of top ascents every year. His motivation and the way he approaches alpinism can be an example to many

Slovenian and world alpinists. In 2013, he mainly focused on the autumn Himalayan expedition and in the preparatory period strung a series of excellent ascents, among other things also a solo repetition of the Peuterey

ridge and free first repetition of the legendary Root in the Wall.

• Mont Blanc, Peuterey Integrale, 5c, M, 4500 m, 15.5 h, solo

• Chamonix needles, Freney+needle traverse, V+, M, 2000 m, 2 days

• Tibet, Ice Tooth (6200m), East pillar, TD, V+, 900 m, alpine style, 2 days, FA.

• Georges de la Biaysee, Biaysse ta culotte, D9, 180 m, OS/Flash, 4.5 h

• Long back, Teranova+Memorial Saša Kamenjeva, M6,90°, 750 m, OS/Flash, 11 h

• Dauphine, Rateau, Le empire des sons, M6, 550 m, OS/Flash, 14 h, 1. RP

• Dauphine, La Meije, Z Couloir direct, M6, 800 m, OS/Flash, 12 h

• Ojstrica, Herletova, VI/IV-V, 450 m, 1 h, solo

• Triglav, Root, VIII+/VII, OS/Flash, 19 h, 1st F

• Petit Jorasses, Mon coeur espagnol, 7a, 750 m, OS/Flash, 8 h



Tadej Krišelj (AO PD Kamnik), award for special achievements

Tadej Krišelj is also a representative of young Slovenian promising alpinists who has been drawing attention with good ascents for many years. He started 2013 excellently in Patagonia with a new route on Fitz Roy, then continued at a high

level with rock climbing at home, and ended the season on an expedition to Tibet.

• Patagonia, Fitz Roy, E wall, The Real Kekec, 6c+, A2, 1300 m, 5 days, 800 m, FA.

• Patagonia, Cerro Torre, SE ridge, 7b, WI5, A1, 1200 m, 2 days, 2nd ascent after removal of most bolts

• Vršac, Zaprti oddelek, VIII+/IX-, 900 m, 16h, 300 m first ascent route

• Patagonia, El Mocho, Dulce de leche, 7a, 800 m, 9 h, FA.

• Vežica, Aksa, VII+, 200 m, 3 h, 1. RP

• Vežica, Black beauty, VIII, 230 m, 4 h

• Dolomites, Marmolada, Modern times, VIII-, 850 m, 14 h

• Himalaya, Ice tooth (6200 m), North couloir, 60˚, 900 m, 2 days



Tina Di Batista (AO PD Ljubljana–Matica), award for special achievements

Tina Di Batista is one of the best top female alpinists of the recent period. Her list of top annual ascents is a long-standing constant. She started 2013 excellently in Patagonia, where she climbed Fitz Roy again. Despite injury, she still strung some good ascents above Chamonix in the summer.

• Fitz Roy, Afanassieff (Filo Noroeste), 6a+/A0, 1600 m, third female ascent Mermoz, Via Argentina, 6a+, 600 m, 8 h

• Red Pillar Aig. du Blatiere, L eau Rance d Arabie, TD+/6b+, 300 m, 6 h

• Chandelle du Tacul, Bonatti-Tabou, TD+/6b+, 300 m, 5 h



THE MOST SUCCESSFUL IN SPORT CLIMBING in 2013

The Sport Climbing Commission PZS at the end of the 2013 season decided, as usual, to announce the most successful female and male sport climber, in addition to award three recognitions for top achievements and five recognitions to young promising climbers for achieved results at the world and European youth championship competitions. It also decided to award recognition to the coaches of the most successful female and male sport climber.



Most successful female sport climber – Mina Markovič (PK 6b Ptuj)

She undoubtedly concluded the past season again as the most successful climber in competitive climbing in the world. After the silver medal at the European Championship in difficulty, the World Games followed. Mina brought home a gold medal. The silver medal at the European Championship in bouldering brought her the final second place in the combination. The prestigious master in Arco followed, where she won this trophy with a victory. The entire World Cup season constantly indicated that the final competition in Kranj would be very tense again. This time the third consecutive overall victory in difficulty was a bit too far, but she became the overall winner of the World Cup in the combination of all disciplines for the third time in a row. The title of state champion at the end of the season was the icing on the cake of a very successful season.



Most successful male sport climber – Domen Škofic (ŠPO PD Radovljica)

Domen is slowly and persistently building his place among the best competitors in difficulty in the world. Breakthrough to the final succeeded him in the past season in half of the competitions and in one he was right behind the podium. At the master in Arco, he proved that he is not afraid to step even higher and with third place showed the competition that they must seriously count on him in the future. In the domestic championship, he won the title of state champion for the second time in a row.



Recognitions for top achievements in competitions

Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje – Matica): Boulder World Cup competitions are very unpredictable and the final lineup changes very often. Jernej succeeded in Kitzbühel, where he won an excellent 6th place. In the final standings, he was in 11th place.

Urban Primožič (PK Škofja Loka): Two years ago, he surprised everyone with placement in the final at the home World Cup competition. That it was not just a flash he proved again in last season and equalized his best result at the competition in Korea.

Maja Vidmar (PK Škofja Loka): In the past season, she again had a lot of work with injuries and consequently with lack of training. But right at the end of the season, she proved that despite all problems she is capable of placing in the final at World Cup competitions. At the European Championship, she remained without a medal by a hair with fourth place.



Recognitions to promising for results at the world and European youth championship

Martin Bergant (PK Škofja Loka): Silver medal at the European Youth Championship in difficulty in the cadets category.

Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO): European youth champion in both difficulty and bouldering in the older girls category.

Matic Kotar (ŠPO PD Rašica): European youth champion in bouldering in the older boys category.

Sara Lukič (Šaleški AO): Bronze medal at the European Youth Championship in bouldering in the older girls category.

Anže Peharc (ŠPO PD Tržič): Silver medal at the European Youth Championship in bouldering in the cadets category.



EVALUATION OF THE 2013 SEASON



Evaluation of the 2013 alpinistic season by the Alpinism Commission PZS:

The start of winter 2013 was promising as quite a few classic winter repetitions were done in our highest walls (Triglav, Debela peč, Jalovec, Špik, V. Mojstrovka, Šite, Dolgi hrbet). Also, some good frozen waterfalls and mixed routes were climbed. Slovenian alpinists climbed in Kandersteg, Fournel, in Austria, in walls above Chamonix. Alpinistic activity slowed down towards the end of winter at home. The reason can be sought in poorer ice-snow conditions, but that did not stop some individual ropes who still climbed in big walls. Commendable.

With the start of spring, numerous good alpinistic ski descents were done, also first descents, which were otherwise rare in recent winters. A rope climbed in Lofoten, Chamonix was visited again. The first action of the national team served with a visit of Japanese alpinists, with whom they did some interesting and good ascents in acceptable conditions.

Already soon after the new year, good news came from Patagonia. Among numerous ascents, a new difficult route on Fitz Roy, excellent ascent on Cerro Torre and rare ascent of a female rope on Fitz Roy stood out. The rope in Canada in April did not go according to plans, better went to the rope in Alaska in May.

The rock season traditionally started in Paklenica with some good ascents. A rope participated in the traditional British international meeting in Cornwall. In June, the first more serious ascents in domestic walls began, in July the first more serious free repetitions. National team members climbed in Czech sandstone, KA organized a camp for promising alpinists under Marmolada, the first expeditioners went to Peruvian Andes.

The summer rock season at home served with numerous first ascent routes and harder free repetitions. New routes followed one after another the entire season, some were very difficult. Slovenian alpinists climbed in Dolomites, above Chamonix, in Montenegro. Quite a few fast ascents over demanding Alpine walls were done. National team members climbed rock and mixed routes in Dauphine, the Alpinism Commission (KA) PZS again organized a women's alpinistic camp with the aim to encourage younger female alpinists to greater activity.

The rock season extended into autumn as well. Slovenian alpinists climbed at a high level both at home and abroad. Again, quite a few first ascent routes at high level and more serious free repetitions were climbed. It was very active above Chamonix, in Dolomites, at home and in nearby surroundings, some climbers climbed in Yosemite. KA PZS organized the traditional camp for promising alpinists in Chamonix.

The autumn expedition of national team members to Phola Gangchen, which was at the same time the central PZS expedition in 2013, due to abundant snowfalls did not fulfill the main objective. In November, first good news came from Nepal, where a new route on a six-thousander was climbed, and again good news from Patagonia, where two ascents on Fitz Roy were done.

The start of winter allowed for a short time some good ascents at home and in Western Alps. Some good repetitions in winter conditions were done as an introduction to the new winter season.

It is certainly encouraging that the leading role of alpinistic activity has been taken over by the new generation of young Slovenian alpinists, who are completely in the flow of contemporary international alpinistic trends. It is also encouraging that the leading generation is followed by a new wave of young alpinists who climb at a high level. In the season, a lot is climbed at home, also very good routes. The attachment to local domestic walls is noticeable, sometimes ideas and creativity in searching for alpinistic objectives are lacking. The older alpinistic generation of top alpinists does not lack this, as they know how to find attractive and top objectives both at home and abroad.

It is similar with expeditions. We would like more exploratory and adventurous alpinism with more developed ideas. Even more, we would like interest in the highest mountain ranges of the world. If recently it was necessary to do selection for participation in a Himalayan expedition team, today we have difficulty gathering a suitable team that is capable of climbing a Himalayan objective at a high level. This is not encouraging. Where are the reasons?

It is also not encouraging that there is no greater cooperation between KA PZS and sections and individuals, especially experienced alpinists. In such a small community as the alpinistic one, without cooperation there cannot be proper and planned work, which alone leads to quality long-term development with top results. It is clear that leading alpinists with charisma will always be individuals, but without broader cooperation we will not optimally cope with the challenges of time.

Slovenian alpinism is in a period when changes are happening, multi-dimensional. From general life circumstances in Slovenian society, to reduction of financial support from the state intended for alpinism, to changes in organization and management of alpinistic activity within PZS (no more KOTG and KA PZS, now all alpinistic activity under KA), after all also generation changes with different approach, view and ideas, etc. It will be necessary to set a new vision of Slovenian alpinism. Where are we, where are we going and where do we want to go? Accept reality, adapt to conditions, clearly define goals, strengthen KA personnel-wise and do something for the common good of Slovenian alpinism as well.

Despite the fact that the 2013 alpinistic season will not remain in memory as a season of excesses, I look to the alpinistic future optimistically and believe that with a little more proper positive approach we can maintain the high level of Slovenian alpinism today and in the future as well.



Miha Habjan, head of the Alpinism Commission of the Alpine Association of Slovenia

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Evaluation of the 2013 season by the Sport Climbing Commission PZS:

For many years now, after the end of the competitive season, we look back with joy and pride on the achieved results of our national team members, their coaches and selectors. Also in 2013, after some exceptional seasons, Slovenian sport climbers concluded the competitive season with excesses.

The flagship discipline remains women's difficulty. Mina Markovič has again inscribed herself in the history of world sport climbing with top results: 3 victories, 3 second places at World Cup competitions, victory at the World Games in Cali, overall 1st place in World Cup combination, overall 2nd place in World Cup difficulty and three silver medals at the European Championship. She defeated the world competition also at one of the most prestigious competitions, the traditional Rock Master in Arco, which is a trophy she had not won before. Together with Jain Kim, she was in a class of her own in the difficulty competition in the 2013 season. In her tenth season performing in the World Cup, Mina achieved her 15th victory already.

Maja Vidmar, who has been achieving top results for 12 years, did not increase her harvest of twelve World Cup victories, but she delighted us again with excellent placements and that despite injuries that plagued her the whole season. She achieved 6th and 8th place in the World Cup and 4th place at the European Championship in difficulty.

In the men's national team, ever better placements of the younger generation of national team members are lining up. Thus, in difficulty, the breakthrough to the senior elite finally succeeded for Domen Škofic, who in his style – with medals - bid farewell to the youth category. He was in the final in half of the World Cup difficulty competitions. With placement on the winners' podium at the prestigious master in Arco, he announced that he is capable of the greatest results as well. Urban Primožič repeated the top achievement with 5th place in World Cup difficulty, and Jure Raztresen missed his first final by a hair with 9th place at the home competition in Kranj.

In boulder World Cup competitions, where the specialization of the discipline is shown more and more every year, Mina Markovič proved her versatility with two 5th places and a silver medal at the European Championship. Among men, the best Slovenian boulderer Jernej Kruder achieved excellent 6th and 7th place at individual competitions and 11th place in the overall World Cup bouldering standings.

Good results in the senior national team are followed by the youth national team as well. At the European Youth Championship, the youths won as many as 9 medals, of which 4 gold. Besides Domen Škofic, the youngest Janja Garnbret and Matic Kotar distinguished themselves, who already at their first official international competition won gold medals. Janja repeated the victory also at her second international competition – European Championship in difficulty. Among the medal winners at youth European championships last year, Anže Peharc and Martin Bergant with silver and Sara Lukič with bronze medal also inscribed themselves. Our most successful youth of recent years Domen Škofic added a set of three medals to his rich collection: gold in bouldering, silver in difficulty at the European Championship and bronze at the youth World Championship in difficulty. For Domen, it was a truly exceptionally successful and demanding season, as besides youth championships he participated in practically all the most important senior international competitions in difficulty.

Slovenian organizers of World Cup competitions Lorin Möscha from ŠPD Korenjak and Tomo Česen from PZS also last year justified expectations in conducting World Cup competitions at the highest level. The Kranj competition will traditionally host the 19th World Cup final this year, and fans of boulder spectacles will have to wait at least one more season for the next World Cup at Log.

Sport climbing is increasingly establishing itself among sports in Slovenia, which is not least proven by multiple nominations of climbers in the selection of the best athletes of the year in Slovenia. For this progress, invested work and results, thanks go to competitors, coaches and selectors, as well as numerous club enthusiasts and parents who take care of the mass and development of sport climbing among the young.

The upcoming 2014 season will be a new opportunity for achieving top results of Slovenian sport climbers. We believe that the national team members will distinguish themselves this time as well, and we wish them quality training without injuries, successful performances and enjoyment in climbing at the biggest competitions with the Slovenian coat of arms on their chests.



Aleš Pirc, head of the Sport Climbing Commission of the Alpine Association of Slovenia