The Most Successful Sport Climbers, Alpinists, Ski Tourers...

The most successful sport climbers, alpinists, ski tourers and ice climber in 2024.

The Mountaineering Association of Slovenia awarded recognitions for top achievements in alpinism, sport and ice climbing, and ski touring for the year 2024 at the alpinism-climbing evening on January 30 at the Gospodarsko razstavišče in Ljubljana. In sport climbing, the laurels were again won by Janja Garnbret and Luka Potočar, they paid tribute to Lojze Golob for lifetime work in alpinism, the most successful alpinist is Anja Petek and alpinist Aleš Česen, the top competitive ski tourers are Rea Kolbl and Luka Kovačič, and among competitive ice climbers, Gregor Šegel stands out.

The gathered were initially greeted by Uroš Mohorič, acting general secretary of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia - Association of Sports Federations: "Tribute and congratulations to all the best who receive recognitions today in the disciplines under the auspices of the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia, and for all others, may today's event be an inspiration to achieve such and even better results with hard work, sacrifice, and investment in oneself and in sport, with which they will stand on this and other, more prominent stages in the future."



The vice-president of the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia, Miha Habjan, also proudly congratulated the recipients of the recognitions: "If the Olympic Games are the pinnacle of an athlete's involvement, then you can't go higher. Golden Janja. We're running out of words for all the superlatives for everything achieved, perhaps just to you and your entire team once again a deep bow. Actually, a deep bow to the entire national team in sport climbing and to all who are involved in one way or another in the wonderful story of sport. If the sport climbing train is well-established, the team of ski tourers is striving towards that, which has gained additional momentum with the inclusion of the sport in the Olympic family. An excellent year is behind you and we sincerely wish all of you that your open desire and intention come true and that you secure a ticket to the Winter Olympic Games. May the anticipated stricter conditions for athlete categorization not clip your wings. The least numerous are the competitive ice climbers, who fight for your otherwise attractive competitive discipline in undernourished conditions. Nevertheless, individuals achieved some excellent results last year and I wish you not to run out of breath, better times will come for you too. Slovenian alpinists last year once again confirmed the high sports status of Slovenian alpinism. Numerous top ascents, in summer and winter, at home and beyond Slovenia's borders, indicate that perhaps after a calmer period, alpinism is rising again to the level of past years. Very encouraging."

The purpose of the selection by the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia (PZS) and its commissions for alpinism, sport climbing, and mountain sports is to evaluate the highest quality alpinistic ascents, top sport climbing achievements, and successes in competitive ski touring and ice climbing, and to present the most prominent achievements in these sports disciplines to the public.

The most successful in sport climbing in 2024
The most successful female sport climber is already for the eighth time in a row the one and only Janja Garnbret (Šaleški AO), two-time Olympic champion, who with gold in Paris once again confirmed her status as one of the greatest athletes of all time. In her style, she ensured an exciting competition outcome and once again stepped on the highest Olympic podium. The Carinthian won all the competitions she participated in last year, including five World Cup events - she delighted Slovenian fans with a victory in Koper. For all her achievements, she has already earned the title of Slovenian female athlete of the year for the fifth time. The most successful male sport climber is already for the fourth time Luka Potočar (ŠPO PD Radovljica), who represented Slovenia as the first male representative in climbing at the Olympic Games, and concluded the European Championship in Villars as fourth in the combined and fifth in difficulty.

Recognitions for top achievements in competitions were received by two-time Olympian Mia Krampl (AO PD Kranj), 17th in Paris and twice a World Cup finalist in difficulty, Jennifer Buckley (PK Scena), who won a silver medal at her debut senior WC in bouldering, and as a cadet became two-time youth world champion, European champion, and overall winner in the sum of both bouldering and difficulty, and Rosa Rekar (PK FA), youth world champion and European vice-champion in difficulty, in her first senior season also twice a World Cup finalist. For top achievements, Sara Čopar (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) was also awarded for fourth place at the European Championship in both difficulty and combined, Anže Peharc (AO PD Kranj), fourth in Europe in bouldering, Katja Debevec (PK Scena) with sixth place at the European Championship in bouldering, and paraclimber Manca Smrekar (AO PD TAM Maribor), 2024 European vice-champion in category AU3 and last year three times on the podium of the World Cup in paraclimbing. The recognition for promising in sport climbing was received by Zala Mlakar Starič (PK FA) and Gorazd Jurekovič (ŠPO PD Radovljica), both overall winners of the European youth cup in difficulty.

The most successful in alpinism in 2024
The most successful female alpinist is already for the fourth time Anja Petek (ZAK Rinka), whose achievements are currently unparalleled in Slovenian women's alpinism. The crown of her season was a successful expedition to the Indian Himalaya with a first ascent route on the still unclimbed six-thousander Lalung I (6243 m) in partnership with Patricija Verdev. The Gornja Grad resident also completed an enviable collection of ascents in domestic mountains, among which stand out the first female winter repetition of the Čop Pillar and then also the first winter repetition of the trio of Skala routes in partnership with Peter Borič, in winter also the Oblique Couloir in Veliki Draški Vrh and Drežniška in Loška Stena, in summer four first ascents in the Julian Alps and a one-day link of three Direct routes above Okrešelj. The most successful alpinist of the past year is Aleš Česen (Alpski gorniški klub), already a recipient of two golden ice axes, who last year with British partner Tom Livingstone climbed a first ascent route along the west ridge on the highest among seven-thousanders - Gasherbrum III (7952 m, shares the title with Gyachung Kang). Two vertical kilometers of demanding five-day climbing, which towards the summit offered the technically most demanding parts in relatively poor rock, were spiced up by poor bivouac spots, among which stands out a sitting open overnight at 7800 meters. The ascent is without doubt among the most important in 2024 in the Himalaya and in general.

Recognitions for special achievements in alpinism in 2024 were received by Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc (both AO PD Celje Matica) for the first ascent route Pot in the Patagonian three-thousander Poincenot; Gašper Pintar (AO PD Ljubljana Matica), who with Briton Tom Livingstone climbed a first ascent route in the south face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska, and free climbed excellent routes in domestic mountains: Sanjski Ozebnik in Triglav and Cozzolino Couloir in Mali Koritniški Mangart; Patricija Verdev (AO PD Celje Matica) for an excellent first ascent in partnership with Anja Petek on the still unconquered peak Lalung I in the Indian Himalaya and good ascents in domestic mountains; Peter Borič (AO PD Radovljica) for the winter linking ascent of three Skala routes with Anja Petek; Jernej Kruder (ŠPO PD Celje Matica) for the free ascent over the legendary El Capitan in Yosemite Valley via the route El Corazon with German partner Dirk Uhlig and climbed numerous other excellent routes, including Beauty and the Beast in Rjavina; and Eva Dana Vidmar (AO PD Ljubljana Matica), who despite her young age climbed demanding modern multi-pitch routes in Tofana di Rozes and Bela Peč and some other excellent classics: Cassin route in Western Cima, Heavenly Roof in Veliki Draški Vrh and Hidden Challenge in Debela Peč.

This year's recipient of the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia recognition for lifetime work in alpinism is the Celje resident Lojze Golob (once a member of AO PD Celje Matica and later the Academic Alpinistic Section in Ljubljana), who shaped Slovenian alpinistic history at the end of the fifties and beginning of the sixties of the 20th century. With 300 alpinistic ascents, among them eight first ascents and six first summits, he was also a member of two Yugoslav alpinistic expeditions. The expedition to the Bolivian Andes in 1964 was a pioneering act and that true alpinism, which also means discovering the unknown. With Tine Mihelič, they ascended Illampu (6368 m) as only the third ascent team, which remained the highest point of Slovenian Andeanism for two decades. Even more epic was in 1969, when as a member of the third Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya, together with Jože Andlovic and Aleš Kunaver, he succeeded in the third ascent of Annapurna IV (7540 m).

The most successful in competitive ski touring in 2024
The most successful female competitive ski tourer became for the first time Rea Kolbl (Society for the Development of Ski Touring), who last year strengthened the Slovenian national team, previously competing for the USA. The Ljubljana resident won 16th place individually at the European Championship, in sprint she reached the highest with 23rd place in the World Cup. In the mixed relay, which will be an Olympic discipline at the Winter Olympic Games Milano-Cortina 2026, she is co-author of the greatest Slovenian achievement - 9th place, which she achieved at a World Cup race together with Luka Kovačič (Society for the Development of Ski Touring), the most successful Slovenian competitive ski tourer 2024. The Upper Carniolan additionally achieved 16th place in ascent and 21st place individually at the European Championship.



The recognition for promising in competitive ski touring was received by cadet Klara Velepec (TSK LiMa), who won silver in the ascent discipline at the European Championship, the first Slovenian medal at the largest ski touring competitions, and achieved four more medals in the youth World Cup, and junior Maj Pritržnik (TSK LiMa), fifth in ascent at the European Championship, 11th individually and sixth in mixed relay with Klara Velepec.

The most successful in competitive ice climbing in 2024
In competitive ice climbing, the achievements of Gregor Šegel (AO PD Ljubljana Matica) stood out in the past year, who achieved his most important result with a victory at the Continental Cup race in Great Britain in February last year, and in December added a third place in the Czech Republic to the excellent performances of the Continental Cup. The most successful competitive ice climber 2024 is also an active alpinist who participates in alpinistic expeditions (Patagonia 2022 and Himalaya 2023).

The recipients of the recognitions said ...

JANJA GARNBRET, the most successful female sport climber 2024: "Both Olympic Games were emotional for me in their own way and brought unique challenges. I came to Paris with experience from Tokyo and in principle it was therefore easier, but it turned out just as demanding, but in a different way and with new circumstances. Sport is unpredictable and you can never say that you know and can expect absolutely everything. That's why it's so interesting and ultimately one of the things that drives me forward. I'm always forging plans on what I can still improve. Of course, I'm extremely satisfied with last season, any other assessment I think would be completely wrong. This year's will be different, basically of course more relaxed, but given the projects I have planned, it will be different and at the same time extremely interesting year. A mix of everything and also this different approach to the season, with more climbing on natural walls, is something I've been looking forward to for a long time."

LUKA POTOČAR, the most successful male sport climber 2024: "In last season, I'm proud of qualifying for the Olympic Games in Paris, which were my first and at the same time an experience I'll remember forever. It's hard to say if there's less pressure this year, everything is a bit different than last year, when it was talked more or less only about the Olympic Games. Every season is its own chapter and each has its own challenges, including this year's. But I'm looking forward to it being in the sign of difficulty and I can't wait for it to start."


LOJZE GOLOB, recipient of the recognition for lifetime work in alpinism: "I think the journey is still very important, perhaps more important than the goal. When we traveled to the Andes and Nepal, the journey was the hardest. Then the easier part and the summit awaited us. Alpinism gives a lot to the person who decides for it. A unique way of life, as long as it's possible, as long as the person is capable, then comes time for other things, for example family, and it fades a bit. If I were younger, I would say that this recognition is an encouragement for further work, but now I would take this opportunity and congratulate all the awardees, because you have shown exceptional results."

ANJA PETEK, the most successful female alpinist 2024: "The alpinistic year 2024 was really something special in many respects. The expedition exceeded my expectations. Maybe outwardly only the pleasant peculiarities of the expedition are seen, but it wasn't without less pleasant factors and realizations. At the same time, the completed ascents in Slovenian hills are dearest to me. It's true that five months have passed since the expedition, but I'm still collecting thoughts and feelings. Similarly with Patricija, when we hang out, we still have trouble putting into words what all the expedition gave us. But it gave a lot! And each of us contributed a very important quarter, that shouldn't be overlooked. I think it's important that we know how to stop and think about these beautiful stories that have been created and not just think about what else could be. If my approach and attitude to alpinism addresses someone else to follow themselves and trust in their own desires and decisions, in connection with alpinism or elsewhere, that will pleasantly delight me."

ALEŠ ČESEN, the most successful alpinist 2024: "I could agree that the ascent of Gasherbrum III was really our greatest feat, but since it's temporally closest I'm also most emotionally involved, if I look objectively, it's at least among the top three ascents, if not even first. In alpinism, it's hard to compare different ascents among themselves, even one's own, but certainly the most energy, experience, and knowledge was invested in it, if I'm talking about high-altitude alpinism that I've been cultivating for the last decade. If I look from a technical perspective, I have many harder ascents, but it's senseless to look at alpinism only technically. The ascent was also marked by the fact that it was our second attempt, which is not typical for me, but this time something drove us to return, so the satisfaction was that much greater. In alpinism in general, for me the greatest confirmation is that I've never found myself in some epic story due to rescue or accident and that I don't have first-person experience with death. I'm proud of that, but even if you're good and cautious, I realize that many things can happen to you - and that I've had a lot of luck, especially in the early years, when I didn't have as much knowledge yet and from the current perspective did stupid things."

REA KOLBL, the most successful female competitive ski tourer 2024: "My previous season was most marked by finally competing for Slovenia. I've wanted that for a few years, and that I managed to achieve the title of the best Slovenian ski tourer was a super addition, for which I'm very grateful. Despite the wishes to show the best last year, the races didn't always succeed as I wanted. Only at the end of the season did I really find the speed I'm capable of, so the momentum for this year is even greater - I know I can upgrade last year's results this year, in a season that's crucial for Slovenia's qualification for the Olympic Games. Of course, I want to keep this title this year too, so at every race it's always the plan to give one hundred percent everything from myself. I hope that will show this year with even better results."

LUKA KOVAČIČ, the most successful male competitive ski tourer 2024: "Above all, I'm grateful that despite the bad winter in the valley, it was possible to train well in higher hills in Slovenia, where ski touring is at home. So I have very nice memories of trainings in last season, the consequence of which were also the results. With the Olympic future of the sport, mixed feelings awaken in me. Of course it's good that the sport is included among the Olympics, but that's not the whole picture. I hope the heart of the sport will be preserved, the mountains, skiing, technical demandingness, which are at least in Olympic disciplines being abandoned and lost. I draw my sports motivation from passion for the mountains, where the sport also belongs, and as long as authentic ski touring disciplines are preserved, I'm not worried about successful competing in the future as well."

GREGOR ŠEGEL, the most successful competitive ice climber 2024: "My year 2024 was most marked by the victory at the Continental Cup in Sunderland, as I believe that due to a slightly greater media response it revealed this sport to many, at the same time opening better possibilities for its development in Slovenia, where the infrastructure is quite undernourished. I hope that with increased popularity of this sport, better infrastructure will develop, which will enable us training at the highest level. A few years ago I didn't imagine receiving this title, so I count it as a great honor. The sport is a great joy to me, and it's nice to get external support and confirmation, as that way you know you're on the right path."