Zajzera - Viš/Jof Fuart (Gola Nordest)

Access to starting point:
Via the border crossing Predel or Rateče, drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Further, drive on the old road towards Videm / Udine. Already after a few kilometers from Trbiž / Tarvisio, the road into Ovčja vas / Valbruna branches off to the left. In Ovčja vas / Valbruna, turn left and follow the road ahead through the Zajzera valley upwards. After a few kilometers of driving, come to a junction at the bridge above the road (at the second bridge). Here, turn left in the direction of the signs for Svete Višarje / Monte Lussari and then already after a few meters of driving, turn right onto the large parking lot where you park.

Route description:
At the end of the parking lot, head onto the cart track, which after a few tens of meters joins the road. Continue left over the bridge and follow the road to a junction where you turn right following the signs »616 Rifugio Pellarini«. For some time then walk along the river and soon join the mountain road. Continue left on the mountain road, along which you then ascend for a long time. All the time while walking on the road, follow the signs for path 616 and hut Rifugio Pellarini.

At approximately half of the ascent on the road, a very demanding path to Mali Nabojs (Piccolo Nabois) branches off to the right. Continue on the road all the way to the end, where there is the lower station of the cargo cableway. Continue slightly right onto the cart track, which quickly turns into a trail. The path then turns left and starts ascending on a somewhat steeper slope below the cableway. Ascend mostly through the forest towards the east, occasionally with a nice view opening up on the surrounding peaks. Such a path leads to a marked junction where you continue right following the signs Rif. Pellarini (20 min), while left leads path 617 to Svete Višarje (4 hours).

The path soon leads out of the forest onto scree, from where a very nice view opens up towards Viš. Here the path turns right and follows the last ascent to hut Pellarini.

From the hut, continue on path 616, which after a few tens of meters leads to a junction. Continue right following the signs Sella Nabois (Škrbina Nabojsa), while left leads the path towards Žabniška škrbina (Sella Carnizza). The path then leads across the wide bed of a torrent to the right side of the valley, where you soon reach a new junction. Continue straight following the signs Grande Nabois via normale, while right leads the ridge path to Veliki Nabojs.

Continue ascending on the right side of the valley past increasingly sparse dwarf pines and larches. The path then leads to yet another junction where the inscription on the rock »NE Gola« directs left, while right the path continues towards Škrbina Nabojsa.

Red dots then lead across the scree towards the northeastern gully of Viš, which is visible from afar. In the lower part, the gully is divided into two parts. Head towards the right and ascend the scree beside the snowfield upwards. Snow usually persists here throughout the year, so appropriate winter equipment is needed. Further on the path, the use of a helmet and self-belaying is mandatory. Cross the snowfield towards the well-visible ledge in the wall of Mali Viš (that's the name of the rocky spur that divides the gully into two parts). The path along the somewhat exposed ledge then leads to the eastern side of Mali Viš, turns right, and leads to the start of the climbing section of the path. Here, ascend with the aid of a steel cable up a very steep gully. In the upper part, climb out of the gully to the left side and continue steeply ascending along the steel cable for a while. Climbing on this section is very demanding; also consider that the distances between the bolts to which the steel cable is attached are very large, meaning that a fall despite self-belaying is quite dangerous. Further, the somewhat less demanding path turns right and along the ridge leads to the entrance into the gully. Through the gully, ascend over numerous rocks and boulders. On a few harder sections, a steel cable assists. The hardest is the ascent through the high chimney, which in the upper part is also slightly overhanging. The ascent through the chimney is otherwise well protected with a steel cable, assisted also by a few bolts. Further, the path soon turns left and then ascends up the left side of the gully. On this section of the path, considerable caution is needed, as the path is secured only at rare spots. In the upper part, the path turns right and along the narrow ledge with the help of a few steel cables leads out of the gully onto the grassy slope called Božje police.

For a short time, still cross the grassy slope, then the path turns left and ascends very steeply up the unsecured gully. After climbing the steep gully, which otherwise has plenty of good holds that facilitate climbing, reach somewhat less steep slopes on the eastern side of Viš.

Further, the path turns slightly right and ascends the slope, which is somewhat less steep but due to the unmaintained path and scree quite dangerous for slipping. When approaching the southeast ridge along which the normal path to Viš leads, the path turns somewhat right and with the help of a few steel cables ascends towards a smaller notch from which a view opens to the northwest. At the notch, turn left and follow the crossing along the narrow ledge to the junction where you join the normal path to Viš.

Here, continue right and only a few minutes of less demanding ascent remain to the very panoramic summit.

For the descent, it is most recommended to organize transport from Nevejski preval and descend past hut Corsi into the valley.

If you must return to the same starting point, all paths are considerably more demanding and longer. The shortest but also most demanding in this case is descent via the ascent path.

Another option is to choose path Anita Goitan to Trbiška škrbinica. From Trbiška škrbinica, do not descend into the gully, which is closed and extremely dangerous (marked with »NO«), but continue ahead on the marked path and follow the signs »R. Pellarini«.

You can also descend to the starting point via Škrbina prednje Špranje and bivouac Mazzeni.

Along the route: Rifugio Pellarini (1499m)

We recommend: similar trips, panorama, summit register