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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Jalovec / Vršič - Jalovec (via Jalovška škrbina)

Vršič - Jalovec (via Jalovška škrbina)

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Starting point: Vršič (1611 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4336°N 13,7435°E
Destination: Jalovec (2645 m)
Route name: via Jalovška škrbina
Walking time: 5 h 55 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Elevation gain: 1034 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1350 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 94.830
 16 people like this post
Number of photos: 55
Number of comments: 92
Access to starting point:
From Kranjska Gora we drive towards Bovec or vice versa, but only to the Vršič pass, where we park.
Route description:
From the parking lot at the Vršič pass we head in the direction of Trenta, where we quickly arrive at a small intersection, where a road closed to public traffic branches off to the left towards the nearby Tičarjev dom and which leads further to the Poštarski dom, but we go right, where next to the wooden cabin where they sell various souvenirs we notice the start of the marked path that leads towards Jalovec and Zavetišče pod Špičkom.
The path already after a few steps brings us to the foot of the scree under Mala Mojstrovka, we keep slightly to the left, where the path through a belt of dwarf pines leads us to the foot of the cliffs, along which we descend a bit. In the continuation the path is still quite scenic and brings us in a few shorter ascents and descents to a shorter, steeper part, where safety cables help us at two more difficult places, which come in handy when the path is wet or slippery. After the mentioned part the path gradually begins to descend transversely, and we descend for quite some time, so we get the feeling that the path will lead us into the valley and not into the area around Jalovec. During the crossing we occasionally have a nice view of the mountains above the Trenta valley, when the path returns to the forest we arrive at a marked junction near the hunting lodge in Rutarska Trenta, which is set a bit off the marked path.
We continue right in the direction of Jalovec (left downhill Zadnja Trenta, straight Zavetišče pod Špičkom) along the path that ascends relatively steeply, first still through the forest, higher on increasingly scenic slopes under Goličica, Lopa and Šite.
On this part we mostly ascend on the southeastern slopes, which higher become increasingly rocky, when we arrive at about 1950 meters above sea level an unmarked path branches off to the right leading towards Šite, we continue on the marked path, which turns slightly to the left and ascends a bit higher to the marked junction under Jalovška škrbina.
Here we go left in the direction of Jalovec (straight Jalovška Škrbina and Tamar valley) and traverse the slopes to the entrance into the Goličica wall.
Before entering the climbing part we put on the helmet, the sign informs us that we will continue the ascent on a very demanding path.
The first part of the ascent along the Goličica wall we do in a slight traversing ascent to the left, then the path turns right and begins to ascend up the wall. The path in the continuation becomes increasingly exposed, the safety cables are really only at the most difficult places, otherwise we have to do most of the ascent without safety cables (this part of the path is especially very dangerous for slipping on the descent).
Higher the steepness eases and we arrive at the scree south of Goličica along and by which we then ascend transversely to the left.
The increasingly scenic path then through Vratca into Ozebnik brings us to the place from which a nice view opens into Jalovčev ozebnik and towards the Tamar valley, the path through the ozebnik has been closed for several decades already.
We continue on the less steep path, which via Jalovško sedelce brings us to the junction at Jezerca, to which we arrive in a slight descent.
Here from the left joins also the path that leads past Zavetišče pod Špičkom and which is a little better secured than this one over the wall of Goličica, but still very demanding, we continue slightly right in the direction of Jalovec.
The path ahead again begins to ascend steeply and with the help of only a few safety cables we ascend on the sometimes quite exposed path to the main ridge of Jalovec, where the steepness of the path eases a bit, but it is still very exposed in many places and often precipitous on both sides.
Also on the main ridge, which is sometimes quite narrow, there are mostly no safety cables, we follow the exceptionally scenic path to the next junction, where the path from Kotovo sedlo joins us.
We continue straight and in a few minutes we reach the 2645 meters high summit, which many also call the king of the mountains.

Vršič - Rutarska Trenta 2:15, Rutarska Trenta - junction under Goličica 1:30, junction under Goličica - Jezerca 1:20, Jezerca - junction on the ridge of Jalovec 0:45, junction on the ridge of Jalovec - Jalovec 0:05.
route map - Jalovec
Along the route: Rutarska Trenta (1546m), Razpotje pod Goličico (2070m), Vratca v Ozebnik (2327m), Nad kuloarjem (2371m), Jalovško sedelce (2394m), Jezerca (2390m), Razpotje na grebenu Jalovca (2613m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Vršič - Jalovec (via Jalovška škrbina)
Show older messages
Gost10. 09. 2007
Thank you very much for the reply. I was on Škrlatica last September. The ascent was tiring, but it remained in my very good memory. Since I'm also planning the ascent to Jalovec, I was a bit scared because of various comments. Based on your reply, I think I'll manage it.

Best regards!
Marija
jamesjoyce12. 09. 2007
Hey, I went to Škrlatica about a week ago, and this Sunday to Jalovec. Although the ascent is quite influenced by subjective factors (mood, relaxation, excitement), for me Jalovec was harder, more dangerous, took an hour longer despite similar elevation difference. But the landscape is even more beautiful to me, so the path is super. I went up via Kotovo sedlo and climbing through the walls was not easy at all for me. It's less (read rarely) secured than many other mountains and you have to make quite an effort to go safely through. Now there are already snow patches in the upper part, so you need to be properly shod and careful.
Gost29. 09. 2007
Robert, 6 hours to Jalovec? You're really a racer, me like a snail. With a colleague we got up in well under 4 hours, and we didn't go that fast, no mistake, from Vršič. And don't spout nonsense that Jalovec is the same as ŠG. Obviously you're not right in the head.
Gost8. 10. 2007
Well, yes, it's true that I've been to Jalovec only about 6-7 times. The first time I climbed it by going from Mojstrovka over Travnik as far as possible, then on this old path that runs parallel to the traverse to Mize and then towards the notch. The day was nice, I was young and cocky. At the beginning of the secured section over the Škrbina it said that the path is very, very demanding and that the inexperienced and those who can't handle heights should rather avoid it. I climbed it easily and upon reaching the summit declared, piece of cake. Only the view into Ozebnik was a bit scary. The second time I went the same path as described in this post, it was after rain and in fog. My opinion on the ease of this path (over Škrbina) changed considerably. It was slippery and much more demanding than the first time.
So, the same path can be rated very differently. Nevertheless, it is very sensible to follow the instructions from relevant guidebooks, like Mihelič's.
Best regards.
Gost2. 11. 2007
You need to climb Jalovec on November 1st, light a candle, and what more can I tell you wise guys on this forum ???
Gost25. 12. 2007
What's with you people, are you organizing a world championship in fast hiking on Jalovec?
Gost25. 12. 2007
Come on Thursday with me, I'd like to see you!
Gost1. 01. 2008
I ascended Jalovec for New Year's Eve. Conditions excellent, occasionally small icy patches. At the summit complete calm and unique views. I couldn't wish for a better New Year's gift and felt some inner satisfaction. Where are the pessimists and advisors?
Gost11. 01. 2008
all congratulations Guest. This year I'm heading to Jalovec. The wish is possible also because that was my maiden name. Nice, isn't it?
Gost11. 01. 2008
The surname is already nice and if I judge by the surname then your husband was very lucky to catch her.
Jalovec is a mighty mountain so prepare well for the ascent.
gad6. 04. 2008
It was interesting to read your argumentative discussion about Jalovec and our beautiful peaks on this site, you know what, all of you who wrote this have no idea about Slovenian peaks, no point in arguing, better enjoy nature and conquer many more peaks, best regards from the snake
andrej7677. 04. 2008
zmeden I really don't know what you're basing that on? Jalovec is definitely a demanding hike from any direction and whoever gets up there and back down in one piece must feel like a king at least that day.nasmeh
jaz15. 10. 2008
Climbed to the summit today. There is still quite a bit of snow in certain places, but it was south-facing. Weather phenomenal. I think it was just the right day, because I've never seen so many larches and beeches in such wonderful colors. Chamois are enjoying the silence of the mountain world and on the summit choughs kept me company, what more could I want. Tomorrow it will already be a completely different day. LP!
bfine44425. 07. 2009
Hello! Simple question. Is Jalovec really the king of our mountains and in that regard the most difficult mountain to reach for hikers? Please reply as soon as possible because I have friends who, in my opinion, don't take it seriously and plan to climb it in the near future.
Klin25. 07. 2009
Jalovec is not the most difficult mountain to reach, but it is among the most difficult in our mountains and requires good physical and mental fitness.
bfine44425. 07. 2009
Is it comparable to Mojstrovka and Triglav?
bfine44425. 07. 2009
comparable*
ilek25. 07. 2009
More difficult.
JusAvgustin26. 07. 2009
Hello, I'm heading to Jalovec next week and I'm wondering if it's really the most difficult Slovenian mountain. How is the trail, the condition of the climbing section, any information is welcome. Nice hiking greetings.
5Xum29. 07. 2009
I can't say it's the hardest, but I just returned from the Goličica wall...
My first advice would be to be careful even before entering the wall, because the markers are a bit outdated and one can easily miss them, but there are also neatly built stone pyramids to help, which somewhat replace the markers.
The wall itself I wouldn't say is sparsely protected, but the fixed protections are mostly pitons and not so many cables (wire ropes). The wall is dizzying, the ascent is almost straight up, but in the hardest part without loose stones and completely dry.

The mountain certainly isn't the hardest, since the ascent past the shelter below Špička is easier than Triglav, but it's strenuous.
JusAvgustin31. 07. 2009
thanks a lot for the tips, I was up there yesterday. Now I know why it deserves the title of the most beautiful in Slovenia. The path is quite strenuous but doable. When I reached the wall I encountered the problem of faded markings, in some places slightly worn pegs and ropes, but it went without issues. I went from Tamar over Kotovo sedlo to the top. I recommend to everyone who hasn't been yet, the mountain is worth all the efforts. thanks a lot for the reply 5Xum.nasmeh
MONTI18. 08. 2009
I plan to go to Jalovec this weekend. I'm interested in the conditions if I go from Tamar and turn left into Jal. škrbina. They say there might be snow problems there (return via Kotovo sedlo). I've already been to Škrlatica, Triglav and all higher two-thousanders here, so I'm quite experienced mountaineer (wire ropes and pitons of all kinds don't bother me), but not a free climber. If anyone has another - moderately difficult variant for Jalovec, I'd appreciate advice.
Thanks in advance.
jersy18. 08. 2009
From Tamar via Jalovška škrbina you need at least an ice axe, crampons are also recommended. The wall of Goličica is dry, also no problems via Kotovo sedlo. Best regards
tanja7919. 08. 2009
Tomorrow we are heading to Jalovec. I'm interested if the road from Planica to Tamar is really closed to cars? How can one get from Planica to Tamar as quickly as possible in that case? Thanks and best regards, Tanja
franc7019. 08. 2009
The road from Planica to Tamar is officially closed to visitors (except landowners and keepers...), the barrier has been removed since last year. Last Saturday there were quite a few cars at the parking lot before Tamar...zmeden
kanjavec25. 03. 2010
-šodrovec-
25/03/2010
robert!
you wrote correctly that ŠG = floppy ass or screamer and not racer.
have a nice day!
EUGEN26. 03. 2010
Why so much impatience towards those who think differently?????????
šodrovec26. 03. 2010
Off the main topic, I'm speaking up (only) in defense of my good name (well, forum nickname "šodrovec"). mrk pogledmežikanje

I don't know if perhaps kanjavec thought that the nickname šodrovec would display on the left instead of kanjavec and thus wanted to hide his impatient response to a several years (!) old polemic behind my nickname or something else? Simply, I don't understand! Maybe kanjavec explains to us!?

In short, to conclude, I am not and do not intend to participate in polemics about Jalovec and (not)difficult paths to it.
kkXhc20. 08. 2010
Given that my name is Jalovec, I'm going to Jalovec tomorrow! velik nasmeh I'm interested which path is more difficult, from Tamar over Kotlovo sedlo or over Jalovško škrbino and if it's harder compared to over Prag to Triglav?
viharnik20. 08. 2010
Already the approach from the entrance of Jalovec couloir around 2000m, the climbing section of the Jalovška škrbina wall is more demanding. Over Goličica and further to the summit again requires caution and secure climbing. Still, the easier approach is from Kotovo sedlo via the NW ledge, where we watch the scree underfoot, nothing else difficult there. Both paths to Jalovec are in my opinion more difficult than Prag, but don't cause problems to experienced ones. Nice ascent, Jalovec!.
drago128. 08. 2010
Nice greetings to all admirers of this mighty mountain!
My experiences go back about 30 years (!!!), when in the family circle we "collected" stamps of the traverse under father's conducting baton.
I conquered Jalovec with the legendary Franclna entry at Špička. Part of the path was quite airy, I also remember numerous memorial plaques of visitors who tragically ended their ascent of the mountain. I don't remember anything else.
But since some are for these tricks and some are not (and I am among the latter), after returning to Vršič I also concluded my paths in the high mountains.
So I would suggest that various racers and underestimators of Jalovec think about what they publicly announce! People read this and then we can have trouble and some new plaque in memory!
vik19. 07. 2011
Almost a year without any record of this beautiful path to the mighty mountain. The path is truly wonderful, the flora along it unique. Views on Sunday were a bit less, opened up here and there a little, but the summit not at all. Towards the summit and along the ridge a strong cold wind, in shelter OK. Protections sufficient, but need to be careful. Quite a few people and some stones whistling close to the head/helmet. Back towards Zavetišču pod Špičkom real rock garden for alpine botanists. Back from the hut quickly, some raindrops fell and at the end the climbs towards Vršiču where you descend to Trenta in the morning. Jota well deserved. Nice, but need to repeat from Tamar sometime in better visibility weather. The Italian hikers who got lost from the Tamar direction and were only today rescued by mountain rescuers are already home.
slavi090219. 07. 2011
regarding the Italian hikers whom they rescued for two days.... such things annoy and sadden me.... why the hell did they have to go into the wall when they were advised against it at Tamar, they endangered their own lives and the lives of our rescuers
jani110716. 08. 2011
hi, I have one question:

I haven't been to Jalovec yet, so I'm interested which route is the most suitable for ascent and how much time you need for descent to get to Zavetišče pod Špičkom.

thanks lp
otiv16. 08. 2011
jani1107 Everything depends on experience and fitness, all routes are demanding. Somehow the most visited is from Zavetišče pod Špičkom.
jani110716. 08. 2011
otiv

thanks
mdj1. 09. 2011
well let me say, I've long wanted to conquer this mountain, so I'd ask if the path is more demanding than the path to Triglav itself, because I hear from some that it's very demanding and that's why I greatly admire Jalovec, and of course respect itmežikanje
ljubitelj gora1. 09. 2011
I recommend the easier path from the shelter below Špičko.
To Triglav there are several paths of different difficulty, the easiest to Triglav is from Krma and the hardest via Luknja, through Plemenice.
You can also go from Planica, take a via ferrata set with you and go through Škrbina, back to Kotovo sedlo. Be careful for sure.
mdj1. 09. 2011
yes of course, caution comes first, thanks a lotnasmeh,...I conquered Triglav via path over Prag, then back over Tominškovo so I'm familiar with difficulty of such paths,...anyway hope I manage to conquer this magnificent mountain JALOVECmežikanje
main4. 10. 2011
At Vršič, the sign says Jalovec 5h, in this direction.
1markost11. 08. 2012
Today I descended via Jalovška škrbina. The path is nice, scenic but in my opinion too poorly marked for descent. I believe many do not descend here (today the only one) but nevertheless the path should be better marked downwards. First I missed it right at the start of the wall under the scree below the glacier. Secondly, when I descended from the wall to the scree below the notch and went straight down because it seemed most trodden there. The path actually goes a bit to the left, which I only realized below among the boulders. Well, I found the path and safely returned to Vršič. The next descent from Jalovec will definitely not be on this path. I would praise the friendly caretaker of Zavetišče pod Špikom.
honda60016. 08. 2012
The path is too poorly marked also for the ascent. I can't imagine being caught by fog on the part when you go above the tree line. In my opinion, it hasn't been renewed (marked) for at least 30 years.
My wife and I were on Jalovec 14 days ago on this path. In the whole day we met 3 hikers. It was great.
And one more thing. 30 years ago the shelter was really a shelter, now it's a hut. But every hiker must visit this hut, it's legendary to me, with a wonderful view of Triglav and other mountains. To me this Špiček is really the best. Lots of enjoyment.
matdra26. 08. 2012
One question: comparison of this path to Jalovec compared to Prisojnik past Ajdova deklica? There are many comments about the horror of the ridge and the exposure of the wall. Thanks in advance
NEIC00826. 08. 2012
The trail to Jalovec is easier..
1markost6. 09. 2012
Matter of personal judgment. I'd say that to Jalovec it's a bit easier but it's also less secured so requires more caution (via Jalovška škrbina). As said, but above all poorly marked.
fpetel118. 08. 2013
This year I'm a bit weaker in fitness. Which path do you recommend? From Vršič or from Trenta? Probably Vršič? Which path is more scenic? I've already been from Tamar over Škrbina and Goličica up and over Kotovo sedlo down.
thanks for the answer
and best regards Franc
malimiha31. 08. 2015
Hello,

I'm interested in the difficulty of the path and which climbing path here can it be compared to.
I have already gone from Tamar through Kotovo Sedlo to the top. Is this one much more demanding? Thanks and best regards, Miha
ločanka31. 08. 2015
A lot of caution and concentration is needed on this path, especially on the section through Goličica. You have to look around a bit for the marks, some are also very old. I think it is more demanding than the one through Kotovo Sedlo.
Marta Samotorčan31. 08. 2015
Well, I managed it. Jalovec, of course. I tackled it with great awe. For me, it was one of the most demanding hikes. (Past Zavetišče pod Špičkom)But now I tell myself: "If I managed Jalovec, there's nothing in the valley I couldn't handle. I'm really proud of myself and this ascent gave me new energy.
Nina Špik9. 11. 2015
hi! Has anyone hiked this trail in the last week? What are the conditions? Any snow?
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