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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Veliki vrh (Košuta) / Vranček - Veliki vrh (Košuta) (climbing way)

Vranček - Veliki vrh (Košuta) (climbing way)

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Starting point: Vranček (950 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4279°N 14,2726°E
Route name: climbing way
Walking time: 3 h 10 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Elevation gain: 1138 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1160 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 70.832
 4 people like this post
Number of photos: 47
Number of comments: 89
Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice, we take the Ljubelj exit and follow the road ahead towards the border crossing. When we leave the last tunnel (we recognize it by the fact that after the tunnel on the left side of the road there is scree), in the first sharp left turn we will notice a road house and next to it a macadam road. Here we park on a smaller parking lot or we drive on a bad road further to the next parking lot, which is situated a little higher.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we go on a bad forest road and follow it ahead. The road higher crosses a torrent, after that slightly ascends and then brings us to the spot where it ends. Ahead we cross the bridge and continue on a cart track which is moderately ascending on a partly overgrown scree. The cart track makes a few sharp turns and brings us from the northern slopes of Košuta to the southern slopes of Košutica.
Further, we are mostly ascending through the forest, which brings us to a larger clearing. Here the cart track goes sharply left and ascends towards the mountain pasture Korošica. A little before the mountain pasture we cross a grazing fence, where a beautiful view opens up. From the meadow we go slightly right below the cottage, which we see above us. The path then turns left and in a few steps of ascent brings us to the cottage on the mountain pasture Korošica.
From the mountain hut, we go right in the direction of Veliki vrh towards Hajnževo sedlo. The path ahead crosses the slopes of Košutica mostly in a gentle ascent through an increasingly thin forest. We follow this path, which becomes increasingly panoramic, to Hajnževo sedlo, where the path from Austria joins.
On the saddle, we go right towards the south in the direction of Veliki vrh (left Košutica). Already after a few meters of additional walking, we enter the climbing part of the path, which is technically demanding, and the path is exposed to falling stones. In wet conditions this part of the path is very dangerous for slipping. When we exit the climbing path, we have only a few minutes of walking to the top on the panoramic upper slope of Veliki vrh.
Starting point - Korošica 1:35, Korošica - Veliki vrh 1:35.
route map - Veliki vrh (Košuta)
Along the route: Planina Korošica (1554m), Hajnževo sedlo (1701m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
Vranček - Veliki vrh (Košuta)1
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Discussion about the trip Vranček - Veliki vrh (Košuta) (climbing way)
Show older messages
NEIC0085. 10. 2012
It's not exaggeration but facts. I've tackled many (at home and abroad) ''very demanding'' paths, and many are significantly easier than the mentioned path to Veliki vrh. zmeden
urbancek5. 10. 2012
There are a sea of such or other "anomalies" in difficulty ratings in Slovenia, because the old classification was wrongly set up, so it's pointless to discuss it (until new and uniform difficulty ratings are introduced). Often, an individual's subjective view is involved here, which has no place in objective difficulty assessment. Thus, in my opinion, according to this old and misguided classification, "demanding marked path" is quite an appropriate label for this path. Of course, given that the highest difficulty level in the old system was "very demanding marked path"...cool
NEIC0085. 10. 2012


NEIC008
11.8.2012 Hm hmP Why is this path classified as very demanding?? Very disappointed, because today's hike along the ''very demanding route'' was a complete disappointment. I would rate the path as demanding at most, the only thing that is ''very demanding'' is the drive to the parking lot and back home.


Above is my comment on the ''very demanding'' path to Peča. Personally, for me, no comparison. The path to Veliki vrh is definitely more demanding. velik nasmeh
jprim5. 10. 2012
@urbanček
I'm not exaggerating, but just comparing and reading ... and I still stand by what I wrote above.
Best regards!
PREDO19. 06. 2013
Nice greetings!

I'm interested if maybe someone has recently walked this path and what the condition is regarding snow, fixed protection..?

Thanks!
trk19. 06. 2013
I walked the path on 15.6. this year, no snow, fixed protection ok (2-3 pegs a bit loose so be careful. Careful also where not protected, because there is a lot of scree on the path.
Janiel7423. 06. 2013
Yesterday walked this path...the path is even described in the book 55 protected climbing paths...really don't know by what criterion (they don't seem uniform to me) here no self-belay set is recommended...I went without anyway, but still...
DARINKA529. 07. 2013
Yesterday I walked this path to the top and back the same way. Where there are no fixed protections it's a bit awkward, after a larger part of the path there is a very high risk of falling stones, so don't go there without a helmet.
ms_primoz7. 10. 2013
on Saturday I was up there... the climbing part surprised me, the ridge surprised me, walking on all fours surprised me... in short, in very strong wind everything can surprise you eek
PD Tržič - the three pegs up there are just for decoration - God forbid relying on them as holds...
the others will need to go up in sunny weather to have a real assessment of the ascent to Veliki vrh nasmeh
Domch10. 10. 2013
The climbing section is in the range of Pece, just more crumbly terrain. You caught wind and fog and kudos for persisting to the summit. The ridge in normal conditions is nothing special, but in such conditions or snow like we had last year, it's much riskier and adrenaline and fear do their thing.wink Otherwise a nice tour with good views.
katja8719. 10. 2013
Yesterday, 18.10.2013, we did a circular tour: Vranček - Planina Korošica - Košutica (western path) - Hajnževo sedlo (via the eastern path from Košutnica) - Veliki vrh (via ferrata path) - Kofce - Matizovec - Podljubelj.
The weather was sunny, cloudless, so the views were fantastic velik nasmeh

The via ferrata path to Veliki vrh is somewhat more demanding than we expected based on the photos and description. We are used to via ferrata paths, but for those who aren't, it can be problematic. Also, it's not mentioned anywhere that part of the upper path is a ridge, which can be a problem for those afraid of heights. The via ferrata set is also not mentioned anywhere, although there are quite a few cables in the lower part, so I recommend it to everyone who is not 100% sure. The upper part of the path is mostly free climbing.

Despite the incomplete description, we found the path great and will gladly go up here again velik nasmeh I recommend to everyone to bring a helmet obligatory, as the path is quite crumbly mežikanje

You can see photos from the hike on the website of the Matica Murska Sobota Mountaineering Association: http://www.mojalbum.com/pdmaticams/20131018-kosutica-in-veliki-vrh-plezalna-pot/izhodisce-matizovec-in-se-zadnji-pogled-na-veliki-vrh/21190804
5Xum1. 11. 2013
Today I was up there, the path is in good condition, all pegs are in place, no snow for now.
jelka10030. 05. 2014
what are the conditions like on the path??
bavdy28642. 06. 2014
Does anyone know about the conditions??
gandalf9. 06. 2015
Has anyone been from Hanževo sedlo to the top of Veliki vrh recently? I'm interested if there's any snow anywhere?

thanks
velkavrh9. 06. 2015
gandalf, read the post by palčka plezalčka on the forum and you'll learn everything about the path from Hanževo sedlo to V. vrh.
misace10. 06. 2015
4 June 2015 no snow, fixed ropes o.k. (slightly worn in two places), at the exit before the wooden shrub a "plug" of soil, be a bit careful. and watch out for snakes wink
misace10. 06. 2015
I meant ladder smile
gandalf10. 06. 2015
Thanks to both, I saw the description from palček plezalček. On Friday I plan to go check it out via Košuta then to the saddle and up
Barentoter12. 12. 2015
What are the conditions like in the climbing section. Thanks!
ivoma4. 06. 2016
Today walked the mentioned path, which is dry. Need to be careful on wet scree and mud on the path.
magroman31. 07. 2016
After yesterday's return from the sea, the idea of a morning jump to Veliki vrh came immediately. Friend laid low with illness overnight, so I went alone. At 5:00 at the toll booth (raining to Podljubelj), wait another 15 min and head into the steep. Nice and fairly steep path, past the hut, to the saddle, then into the cables. Expected something worse, but nothing special. To summit 1h 50min. On descent the scree is a bit annoying, at saddle turn left immediately onto scree slopes which can be used very well. Join marked path and quickly to valley. Total 1h 25min. Lp
CarpeDiem24719. 08. 2016
This looks like a fun climbing path and as I see not too difficult nasmeh
jax19. 08. 2016
It's nice, although a bit underestimated in this description, and quite crumbly too. A bit annoying because it's actually the only practical descent the same way, which can be unpleasant. Otherwise I agree - short, fun and not too difficult tour, though not to be underestimated.
Ksandarela13. 06. 2017
Hello hikers
I have read all the comments about the crumbly wall and loose pitons, but they are already several years old... Please tell me what the current conditions on the climbing route are, if there is any snow given the north position, and how suitable this route is also for descent, considering that some in our group are still beginners in climbing... jezik
Thanks in advance velik nasmeh
garmont13. 06. 2017
For beginners, the descent will be quite difficult. cool On the exposed sections of the path there is quite a lot of scree, no protection there. On one section a rope helps, which someone tied there. mežikanje
The protections are mostly okay, but there aren't many, who knows...zavijanje z očmi
Lunca15. 06. 2017
I would also advise against descent. Go with two vehicles, leave one at the starting point, the other at Matizovec, where you can descend, past the hut on Kofce.
Ksandarela15. 06. 2017
Thanks for the reply nasmeh
Lunca, interesting recommendation to go with two cars, because I was just studying how to manage this, to descend past the hut on Kofce... thanks smart owl velik nasmeh
Nastasja9. 07. 2017
Yesterday my friend and I were on this path. Personally, the rocks didn't seem crumbly to me, but it's true that some stones are loose and each one needs to be checked before grabbing or stepping. Some pitons were loose. For the climbing section, it's great if the hiker/climber has at least some climbing experience. We had no problems with the descent, but we have a lot of stamina and I also have experience. I also thought it would be ideal to drive with two cars to Matizovec, leave one car there and drive to Vranček. On the way back to Vranček around 12 o'clock we saw two adders on the path (I'm a layman in species identification). One was still on the climbing section, the other just below the saddle or state border. Both were younger and so fast that we couldn't even take a picture of them. They heard us because we were talking loudly and because I was the first using poles. If we watch our feet, there's no fear of being bitten by any, as they are really very shy. They come to the path because it's warm on the rocks.
CarpeDiem24718. 07. 2018
Today we summited Veliki vrh also via this path and conditions are excellent (all protections in good condition, the mentioned rope is still there for assistance). Return preferably via the path past Kofce, so with two cars (the other at Matizovec) and thanks for the advice from people on this forum! nasmeh
Edina30. 08. 2018
I have recorded the current condition of the path under current conditions, but here, given the variety of the above records, I quote Stanko Klinar, who wrote the first guide to the Karawanks half a century ago, and the quote is at least twenty years old: "The path is one of the most demanding and scenically most varied in the Karawanks. It leads through mighty northern rock faces. It was secured and marked by SPD around 1930, and in 1982 it was thoroughly renovated by the Tržič markers." Even today it is not essentially different and it is right that it is marked as very demanding. I would add that the stated time of three hours is not in line for an average hiker. The mere fact that it involves almost 1200 meters of ascent, of which one third falls on the demanding section above the saddle, where you can't hurry if you don't want to trigger rocks, confirms my claim. Additional time is also required for self-belaying in the secured section. Of course, my regards to "magroman" and the like, who used a good three hours for up and down and even that on wet rock, as it was raining at the starting point according to his record. So, whoever spends half an hour more on the path and watches those climbing below him doesn't need to blush, but will celebrate the ascent on one wonderful Veliki vrh. Good luck on the paths to all; the fast, the average and also the slower onesnasmeh
Domch15. 10. 2018
The path is currently very littered with scree, muddy, greasy rocks in the middle part, 3 pegs are loose, two vertical ropes and blueberry branches provide assistance. Quite unpleasant up, very unpleasant down, if not dangerous for slipping.
trdi28. 06. 2019
Wow, surprisingly demanding path due to objective danger. The entry section into the wall is super, at least while there are fixed ropes. Very awkward chimney higher up with dubious pegs, at the second rope almost suicidal ascent on steep unstable ground. Good thing there's that rope. From the chimney on there should be fixed ropes at least to the wooden ladder. From the wooden ladder on it's a nice ridge stroll with wonderful views. The lower part of the climbing path is definitely very demanding, helmet is essential, via ferrata kit is useless because there are no fixed ropes on the most difficult sections.

Descent to Kofce, in between there's also some rickety fixed rope with pulled-out pegs.

In short, PD Tržič in all its glory. I suggest they dedicate one weekend's earnings from Kofce to fixed ropes, then everything will be sorted...
trdi2. 07. 2019
Well, I was just waiting for fatalities. Will inspectors fly here to close the path like on Komarča, which compared to this condition is a real gem? Oh, no tourists here...
Majdag2. 07. 2019
Sad, the last ascent of the always cautious Janez Novak. Sincere condolences to the family..
ločanka2. 07. 2019
This news saddened me too, as Janez was a faithful describer of his tours on this forum. In June he posted at least seven and thus enriched our list of current conditions for all of us.
May he rest in peace!
Kamen4019. 09. 2020
The path is now exemplarily arranged. There are new fixed cables. I agree with predecessors, if possible go with two cars.
AljaL9. 10. 2020
Hi, has anyone been on the climbing route these days? What's the condition like after the last snowfall?
sla9. 10. 2020
Today from Hajnževo sedlo I saw that there is a little snow in the upper part.
AljaL10. 10. 2020
There's just a sample of snow right below the summit. Can safely bypass it. Beautiful trail otherwise!
zvehar14. 08. 2021 19:08:32
Today I was up there - nice tour, SVK not strictly necessary, but still recommend. There are some loose pegs in between and as predecessors wrote crumbly wall.
I also recommend extending the tour to Kofce and to the valley, as there is quite a bit of scree that can cause slipping. In this case it's advisable to go with two cars.
Majdag15. 08. 2021 08:45:27
..The asphalt path back to Vranček is looong, checked far back..nasmeh
ljubitelj gora4. 09. 2021 09:38:51
I'm going by this path: https://www.hribi.net/izlet/koncentracijsko_taborisce_planina_korosica_lovska_pot/11/71/2636 The cables are new, the second part of the path needs to be "climbed" without protections.
marko2210. 09. 2022 17:13:17
Today I was up there, from Vranček to Hajnžev via scree, which was unnecessary and strenuous. From the saddle along the fixed protections ok, but when I reached the ridge, I swallowed hard. On the way back it was easier, as I was more mentally prepared, but still used hands a lot. From the saddle via scree terrain! Up the path almost three hours, down two and 10. Helmet was very useful, as the person above me triggered rocks.
garmont27. 09. 2023 14:10:01
The section of the path above the secured part, where there used to be a ladder (picture 40), has been replaced by made steps and is fully equipped with a steel cable. nasmeh
mj13027810. 04. 2024 17:19:43
hello, does anyone know if this route is already snow-free?
Thanks a lot for the reply.
Darxta10. 04. 2024 19:36:39
mj, better to ask about this on the Razmere forum.

There look under the topic Karavanke -> Kepa. ljubitelj gora posted pictures 3 days ago, and on picture 13 on the left you can see the Košuta ridge from the north side. It's still quite white. It will probably be snow-free only in a couple of weeks.
LP
anica.zu7. 10. 2024 19:55:02
The road workers' huts are no longer there.
plaNinaPirsMajcen19. 06. 2025 19:25:59
Hi.

I made a little video about this beautiful path, invited to view:

https://youtu.be/zRuShVlOXPw?si=hpsBxgt7MapMWF36

For me personally the path is very beautiful, exemplarily secured, nowhere in the climbing section did I have a feeling of direct exposure. I used the self-belay kit only at the beginning, it didn't seem necessary to me though. Helmet definitely. The mentioned ridge also isn't anything special in good weather, wide enough, not crumbly.

Fairy-tale beautiful is Hajnževo sedlo with views to Slovenian and Austrian side, soft grass with flowers, real reward for approx. 800 elevation meters on a quite steep path from the starting point. Also beautiful is planina Korošica in between.

We descended to Kofce, for deserved štruklji and rest, then further to Matizovec, where ordered transport to the starting point was waiting for us.

Best, Nina
mjk1. 08. 2025 08:10:17
The path is nicely secured, but there's a lot of loose scree piled up, especially above the wall. The problem is that it all rolls onto the path. Helmet mandatory. Via ferrata kit, and straight up, if you're going down this path and ever thought you need it on very difficult paths, especially if there's still snow (once you reach the scree you can stow the VK). It's lucky that the path is quite solitary, but that just means more buildup nasmeh. 3h is more of a net estimate. The steepness eases to the saddle only on the path between the pasture and the saddle. Better to count 3.5h. After the wall and ridge it's 1:15, plenty ... Very nice path, with chamois already in the lower part to the pasture, well marked in the wall and on the ridge, especially lots of beautiful views. (I also avoided descent to Kofce). In my opinion not suitable for larger groups, because there's always someone who "whines".
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