Suhadolnik - Kokrska Kočna (on southwest ridge)
Starting point: Suhadolnik (901 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,3352°N 14,5102°E |
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Route name: on southwest ridge
Walking time: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Elevation gain: 1619 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1619 m
Map: Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe 1:50.000, Grintovci - 1 : 25 000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 5.340
 | 4 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go to the exit Kranj - east and follow the road ahead in the direction of Jezersko, but only to the village Kokra. In the mentioned village, we will notice only a few meters before the road crosses a bridge over the river Kokra a road which runs towards Suhadolnik. The turn-off of the road is located when we are on the right side of the river (left bank), the road sign is approximately 7 km. We follow this road to a parking lot, which is located approximately 300 meters before the farm Suhadolnik.
Route description:
From the parking lot at Suhadolnik we go towards the saddle Kokrsko sedlo, but only to a cirque Suhi dol. Here we choose the second left turn-off and follow the steep cart track to the spot where by the sharp right turn into a forested slope a modest footpath branches off (about half an hour from the moment when in Suhi dol we left the blazes). The path quickly vanishes, and we keep crossing the slope until we look into a scenic wall in front of us. After a somewhat unpleasant descent we cross below the wall and on game paths on its left edge we ascend into a dense forest. For a short time we still cross to the left to a grassy clearing - here we look up and tackle the slope, advancing through a steep gully or on passages right from it.
After the end of the gully we cross to the left and somewhat uphill to a grassy plateau. In a satisfactorily wild environment the steep southern expanses of Kočna reveal themselves; we advance in the direction of the rocky head of Malih vratc and quite quickly we will encounter a modest wooden ladder. Above it we advance over individual grassy-rocky jumps and steep grass to the obvious notch between Malimi vratci on the left and the southwest ridge of Kočna which rises right from it.
On the notch bigger orientational problems end. Advancing right over a short jump we ascend to a ledge and from it over a steep step (weak II.) onto the ridge where the further path reveals itself. In front of us is around 500 altitude meters of ascent on the more demanding terrain of the SW ridge of Kočna which does not exceed climbing grade I.
On grass we ascend to the sharp side ridgelet and cross it to the right (cairn). We bypass the rocky ridge tower on a ledge to the right: it will take us to the junction with the gully which from now on will be our constant companion to the summit Na Križu. When the ridge becomes easier to traverse we ascend onto it again.
The route becomes ever nicer, climbing is not too demanding; if the ridge becomes too sharp we seek an easier passage along the gully to the right. Soon after the spot where the wall on the left side of the ridge is interrupted by a steep gully it becomes steeper and occasionally indicates features of a rugged wall. The terrain is fairly loose but holds are mostly satisfactory and climbing quite pleasant. On the left we will spot a smaller natural window, to the right we can seek easier bypasses. Soon thereafter near the summit Na Križu the route peters out; at the junction with the northwest ridge of Kočna after a few meters to the left we reach the panoramic summit.
From the summit Na Križu we continue along the ridge eastward toward Kokrska Kočna. The ridge is quite sharp but insofar as nature remains forgiving some cairns will guide us.
When the ridge becomes too demanding we withdraw from it to the right (south) following the traces of predecessors and cross below it (do not turn too low). A slightly exposed ledge and individual spots of climbing grade I await us. The terrain is quite crumbly so additional caution is not superfluous.
Upon returning to the ridge a view of Grintovec reveals itself, a careful look to the left reveals the steel cables from the path to Kokrska Kočna. Diagonally we descend to the junction with the marked path cross the scree and on the partly secured path ascend to Kokrska Kočna.

Along the route: Na Križu (2484m)
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Jezerska Kočna
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Discussion about the trip Suhadolnik - Kokrska Kočna (on southwest ridge)
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| matic421. 07. 2019 |
For me the most beautiful approach to Kočna. With a normal pace you reach the top in five hours. Trekking poles are highly recommended. A bit about the initial approach: in the flat area of Suhi dol the first track to the left is flat and overgrown, about 50m further to the left is the second steep track - this is the right one. We keep straight past the branches to the left and right to the bend. For those who will descend past the bivouac according to Habjan's description: from the bivouac we go along the ridge for about 20m, turn right towards the scree and descend it to the end, on the left between sparse spruces we descend steep grass for about 50m, cross to the right under a short jump (remains of a path), follows a long crossing to the right through grass towards the gully (path visible from afar, which we cross), cross the gully, continue crossing to the right in a slight descent through grass, reach a coarse narrow scree, descend along its right side through grass for about 100m of altitude until the gully breaks over a steep jump, bypass the jump to the right in the forest, about 10m before the jump and 10m to the right of the gully there is a fixed cable, we use it through the steepest part, when the steeper slope ends, gradually turn left towards the gully, which is now grassy and shallow, descend through grass all the way to the forest and then another 50-100m through the forest until we reach the track.
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