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Mountain ranges / Gailtaler Alps / Traningerwand / Plajberk pri Beljaku / Bad Bleiberg - Traningerwand (Extrem Klettersteig)

Plajberk pri Beljaku / Bad Bleiberg - Traningerwand (Extrem Klettersteig)

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Starting point: Plajberk pri Beljaku / Bad Bleiberg (980 m)
Route name: Extrem Klettersteig
Walking time: 45 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Via ferrata: D/E
Elevation gain: 220 m
Elevation difference along the route: 220 m
Map:
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 5.104
 3 people like this post
Number of photos: 59
Number of comments: 1
Access to starting point:
Over the border crossing Korensko sedlo we descend into Austria and when we reach the main road Trbiž / Tarvisio - Beljak / Villach, we continue left towards Trbiž. We follow the main road to the settlement Ziljica / Gailitz, and there at the roundabout, we go onto the road towards the settlement Šmohor / Hermagor. From the roundabout we drive on the road towards Šmohor approximately 11 km, and then signs for Plajberk pri Beljaku / Bad Bleiberg point us to the left. Further, we drive through the underpass and the road brings us to the center of the settlement Čajna / Nötsch im Gailtal, from there we continue driving towards Plajberk pri Beljaku. Further, we drive on an ascending road, on which past a quarry we quickly get to the settlement Bleiberg Kreuth, and we drive a few kilometers further to the settlement Plajberk pri Beljaku / Bad Bleiberg. Approximately 100 meters before the spa from the main road we turn left onto an ascending road and follow the signs for Hotel Klom. We park near the hotel.
Route description:
We head onto the forest road and follow the signs »Mittagsnock – Hachelnock«. After approximately 10 minutes of walking on the road we come to a crossing where a red sign (zum Klettergarten) points us right into the forest. The narrow footpath ascends diagonally and quickly brings us to another crossing. We continue slightly left following the red-white blazes (right yellow-red blazes) and the path quickly brings us to yet another crossing. Left leads a less demanding climbing path, and this time we continue right. The path brings us below the wall and then follows crossing of the slopes to the right. By the path, we will notice a long ladder, which is not the beginning of the climbing path. We continue with the crossing below the wall, which brings us to the beginning of the climbing part of the path.
The climbing path at the beginning ascends steeply upwards (difficulty C). The path then turns to the left and follows a somewhat easier ascent (difficulty A/B), which brings us before a very exposed part of the path.
Along the steel cable we descend almost vertically (difficulty C), then follows an extremely demanding crossing of the wall to the left (difficulty D/E). The wall is here smooth and there are practically no footholds or handholds. Follows a short slightly overhanging diagonal ascent (difficulty D) and then another crossing (difficulty C/D).
The path further becomes somewhat less demanding and from the left joins an easier climbing path. At the crossing we continue right upwards and ascend over an overhanging ladder (difficulty C). Above the ladder the path turns to the left and crosses the slopes above the wall to the left. The path on this part is not demanding, only at a few spots is it slightly exposed. Follows a somewhat steeper descent (difficulty B), then the fixed safety gear ends and the path soon brings us below the wall.
The described path is extremely demanding and is graded with difficulty level D/E. It is suitable only for experienced climbers with enough strength in their arms.
route map - Traningerwand
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Photos:
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