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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Jôf di Montasio/Montaž / Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (over Pipan's ladder)

Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (over Pipan's ladder)

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Starting point: Pecol (1510 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4092°N 13,4376°E
Route name: over Pipan's ladder
Walking time: 3 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B
Elevation gain: 1243 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1250 m
Map: Julijske Alpe - zahodni del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 224.401
 16 people like this post
Number of photos: 29
Number of comments: 104
Access to starting point:
A) From Kranjska Gora over the border crossing Rateče we drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio. In Trbiž we continue left in the direction of Bovec and we follow the road to the crossroad near the lake Rabeljsko jezero. Here we continue right in the direction of Nevejski preval (Na Žlebeh) / Sella Nevea. When the road already starts descending towards the valley Reklanska dolina, in a sharp left turn, a narrow and steep road towards Montaževa visoka planota / Altopiano del Montasio branches off to the right (by the crossroad there are signs in Italian language). We follow this road to a large marked parking lot, which is situated a few 100 meters before the cheese cottage Pecol (further driving is forbidden).
B) From Bovec, we drive to the border crossing Predel, from which we descend on the Italian side. Only a little after the lake Rabeljsko jezero we come to a crossroad, where we continue left in the direction of Nevejski preval (Na Žlebeh) / Sella Nevea. When the road already starts descending towards the valley Reklanska dolina, in a sharp left turn, a narrow and steep road towards Montaževa visoka planota / Altopiano del Montasio branches off to the right (by the crossroad there are signs in Italian language). We follow this road to a large marked parking lot, which is situated a few 100 meters before the cheese cottage Pecol (further driving is forbidden).
Route description:
From the parking lot on the mountain pasture Pecol we go on a narrow road which runs right towards the mountain hut Rifugio di Brazza. Soon signs point us to the left on a footpath, on which through meadows in good 15 minutes we reach the mountain hut. At the crossroad, which is only a few tens of meters above the mountain hut we go on the left path, which runs towards the saddle Forca dei Disteis (2201m), and the right path runs to Špik Hude police (2420m). From the crossroad at first we descend a few meters and then in a gentle ascent, we cross meadows below the mountain walls of Montaž and if we are lucky we can also notice Alpine marmots, and there's quite a lot of them around here. Soon from our left side joins the direct path from the mountain pasture Pecol, which is a few minutes shorter than this past the mountain hut. Here the path already ascends a little steeper and soon brings us to the already mentioned saddle where there is usually a lot of ibexes. To the saddle, we need from the starting point a little less than two hours. At the saddle, the path turns to the right over the scree and we soon come again to a crossroad. Left less visited and a little more demanding path runs towards the bivouac Suringar (2430m). We go on the right path which still crosses scree and it brings us to the memorial plaques, where we enter into the rocky part of the path. Here the path becomes demanding, some easy climbing is needed, we also get help from some steel cables, but less than we are maybe used to in Slovenian mountains. After that, the path turns a little to the left, where we cross smaller scree and we are soon in front of the most difficult, but also the most secured part of the path. First approximately 10 meters with the help of stemples and steel cables, we ascend almost vertically, after that follows 60m high Pipan's ladder, which is a little raised from ground and also almost vertical. When we climb the ladder we only have a few meters to the ridge on which we go to the left. The path on the ridge is no longer so demanding and in 20 minutes brings us to the summit. However, on the path on the ridge caution is still needed, because the ridge is quite exposed, we also have to be careful not to trigger stones, and there is quite a lot of them. The peak is very panoramic and has enough space. On the summit stands also a cross and bell on which mountaineers ring for luck.
route map - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž
Along the route: Rifugio di Brazza mountain hut (1660m), Forca dei Disteis (2201m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž1
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž2
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž3
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž4
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž5
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž6
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž7
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž8
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž9
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž10
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž11
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž12
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž13
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž14
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž15
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž16
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž17
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž18
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž19
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž20
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž21
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž22
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž23
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž24
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž25
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž26
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž27
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž28
Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž29
Discussion about the trip Pecol - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (over Pipan's ladder)
Show older messages
klm2. 08. 2014
info from yesterday: first snowfield at the top of the first scree below the cliffs, second on the upper scree below the entry to the wall to Pipanova...
acjom2. 08. 2014
But is it passable without gear (ice axe, crampons)?zmeden
klm2. 08. 2014
Ice axe is highly recommended, snow softens quickly.
Igor838. 08. 2014
So no one carries winter gear up unnecessarily.. the path is nicely passable, snow no longer obstacle. Descent recommend in LEFT direction (steep ledges), for me personally even nicer part than the ascent via Pipanova ladder.
toni19671. 09. 2014
I'm interested in the difficulty through Pipanovo lestev compared to Hanzova on Mala Mojstrovka
VanSims1. 09. 2014
Pipanovo lestev is hard to compare to Hanzova on MM, since there are no ladders there. Otherwise, if we compare the whole path (without the ladder itself, which you can also avoid if you're afraid of heights), it seems to me on the level of the path through Prag, so easier than Hanzova on MM. The Medvedovi skali would correspond to the pegs and cables before the ladder itself (the path that bypasses the ladder also bypasses that).

The problem is that you have to go down the same path, which is a bit more tricky.
Keko1. 09. 2014
I might not fully agree. The path to Montaž via Pipanova lestev can be quite dangerous for slipping. The rocks are very polished in places by hikers, which is dangerous especially on the descent, as it is also the easiest descent.
At Mojstrovka you can descend via a much easier path. On this path I witnessed someone's slip on the descent. If someone hadn't grabbed their backpack, it would have ended very badly, as they would have ended up a couple hundred meters lower. The path to Montaž is still not as secured as to Mala Mojstrovka. The path therefore requires quite a bit of caution.
Zebdi2. 09. 2014
Hanzova doesn't have any such difficult detail as that wall under Pipanova lestev, on the other hand the "difficulties" drag on longer than on the path to Montaž. Hanzova can also be dangerous for slipping (mud, scree on places with smoothed rocks), and besides it has more exposed sections. But Keko is right that Mojstrovka has a much easier descent than Montaž. Personally, the path to Montaž didn't seem poorly protected to me, the descent via Hanzova seems more awkward to me than the descent via Pipanova.
zoranp6821. 10. 2014
hi. On 19.10.2014 I was on Montaž. Up and down via Pipan. For me personally the part above the ladder to the top of the ridge is more dangerous because it crumbles.
Ljubljančan31. 10. 2014
Today was a great day to visit the mountain, attaching some photos, tomorrow I hope to process a short video that will show the condition of the path and dangers.

Montaz

Personally, I think the passage, which is just a couple of meters, is the most difficult/awkward section, otherwise it's really a nice tour, definitely worth visiting these days.
acjom31. 10. 2014
I'm wondering if there's any snow on the pathzadrega
Ljubljančan1. 11. 2014
There is almost no snow, except for a few patches. The first snow appears on the scree before entering the rocky section (3m), but it is well trodden (see picture 11 in description).
There is a little frozen snow at the end of the gully (see picture 14 in description), but it can be nicely gripped and there are no problems.
Further on, you can avoid the snow until the ridge, where there is some but nothing dangerous (link in previous post).
Best regards Rnasmeh
Potohodnik6. 12. 2014
I read some comments a bit and recalled the memory and read my comment a bit higher. I described the ascent a bit poorly. As for the surroundings: Montaž is excellent. The ascent is very nice despite the scree, but I think it's right not to change their home with fixed cables.
primozs21. 12. 2014
Yesterday visited Montaž (Špik nad policami).
Snow starts at 1800 meters. Mandatory use of crampons and two ice axes. Snow is unconsolidated and one must be very careful. Road to the alpine pasture passable, no snow on the roadway.
Merymery25. 07. 2016
Hello, I see that no one has commented for a long time, I'm wondering if anyone has recently visited Montaž or if there's still any snow on the path. Regards
palček plezalček25. 07. 2016
Check the conditions comments. No more snow. mežikanje
Merymery26. 07. 2016
thumbs up climber thanks I'll check as we plan to visit Montaž at the end of the week
orchidlily31. 08. 2017
Here is a little video from this summer. Pipan's ladders are truly a special attraction, but at Pecol there are excellent (admittedly quite expensive) cheeses!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86PxLRwyKnE&t=7s
cebelicaU6. 09. 2017
Hi, does anyone know if there's already snow up there? Is the path still more or less dry? LP
švedrc9. 09. 2017
The path is completely dry. nasmeh
inot5. 07. 2018
02.07.2018 from planina Pecol via Pipan ladder. On the path there are some snowfields that can be crossed without winter gear, awkward only the snowfield right below Pipan ladder. The snowfield can be bypassed, there was also a variant path under the snowfield approx. 10 m, which is becoming more dangerous every day because the ice layer is very thin
trdi7715. 07. 2018
14.7.2018 - we also started from the Pecol pasture via Pipan's ladder. There's still a little snow just before entering the wall, right below Pipan's ladder just two patches of snow left, which allow safe passage. At the top of Pipan's ladder there's a lot of loose rock and you need to be careful as you can easily trigger a rockfall. No one ahead of us and we got a "shipment" from locals "chamois". I was surprised how many there were at the top.
I was a bit disappointed with the path marking and there could be an extra cable in some places towards the summit, more for peace of mind than necessity.
Otherwise a nice tour with great views.
devill16. 07. 2018
14.7. around 15:00 helicopter rescue took place, we heard calls for help and I'm wondering if there's any news? Hope nothing tragic?
turbo16. 07. 2018
sAleska17. 07. 2018
I was at Montaž on Friday, July 13th. Weather excellent. Practically no people. Just one German-speaking father with his 8 and 10-year-old sons. Regarding snow, trdi77 already said it - you can actually bypass those few snow patches. I didn't notice any rocks above the ladder at all, nor did I trigger even one on the whole path. But ibex (not chamois) were constantly triggering them, and quite large ones. Luckily I wasn't in the fall line. Regarding markings I had no problems, especially not with the fixed cables - for me even if they weren't there. But such an assessment is really very subjective. Good luck to all who will go there.
Drago197517. 08. 2018
Hello, yesterday 17/8/18 I was on Montaž around 13:00, descent at 15:00. To the parking lot 2h15min. Pipan's ladder is more of an attraction than a difficulty. Big crowd on the glacier and helmet mandatory at least, because stones fly from the top of the glacier. I spent up/down/lying/photographing/etc 10 hours. The tour is exceptionally beautiful. Time is my ally and the day was sunny. I greet the mountaineer who will read this (don't know the name...sorry) best regards to all
Drago197517. 08. 2018
oh and I'd add this, otherwise my observations were already written by trdi77, namely missing wire ropes or some holds "right from the top of Pipan's ladder along the ridge to the summit. And also very poorly marked trail with red dots. Easy to get off track. Good luck and best regards
SilvestrO27. 08. 2018
Reading this above..., Drago, I think you got a bit mistaken and were on Montažu 16.8.18...., and we talked, a bit on the way up and again when I was returning from the summit, we met under Pipanova lestev. You took a lot of photos, where are the pictures?
Best regards
miratan11. 10. 2018
Hello,
interested if anyone has been to MONTAŽ recently. I'd like to go this weekend 13 or 14 October, interested in conditions - snow?
danielenidoma11. 10. 2018
We two were there on 4.10. Up via the ice field, there was quite a lot of snow over the ice field .. down via Pipanovo. There were a few snow patches yes, but nothing particularly noteworthy or that would pose any difficulty. Now with high temperatures anyway, so I think most has melted.
Good luck!
Ksandi14. 10. 2019
Yesterday, 13.10. my colleague and I first went along Leva path to Pipanova lestev and over it to the summit of Montaž. Very nice path. nasmeh
Fulcrum24. 09. 2020
Last Saturday I was for the first time on Montaž via this path. The path (No. 663, if I remember correctly) is marked only up to Pipanova lestev, from there on you only occasionally spot a faded red dot. The most demanding sections are well secured with cables; still, one must be careful as the path is very crumbly and rocks can easily be triggered. eek
J.P.17. 08. 2021 08:50:21
Exceptionally beautiful areas. Up and down via Pipanovo, for return we chose the traverse (ferata Leva) to the notch then down to the hut. The traverse was the highlight of the day as the wall is really special. Helmet mandatory here all the time. Safe steps, Lp
SimonT19. 06. 2022 18:29:30
The path was CLOSED yesterday, 18.6.2022, (probably for a few more days). The ridge above Pipan ladder too. The guys are seriously repairing the safety gear and culture dictates not to throw rocks on their heads in thanks. Unfortunately, there were also models at the top of Montaz who even boasted that they went over the CLOSED path. The Italians working there loudly warned the "guests", mentioned Holy Mary in all forms but apparently it wasn't clear enough for some Kranj hard-headed and ill-mannered doltsjezen.
haridautovic27. 06. 2022 18:50:12
Works on Pipan will be completed on 15.7.2022/Yesterday I did this ascent over the glacier, the path is really very demanding, since today the works are paused I went to check what's been done. They've nicely secured the ridge path with new cables, some pegs all the way to Pipan. Also the exit from Pipan goes directly up under the rock and not over the scree, excellent,, there's also a reserve route towards the top of the hill, I continued there myself and descended via the path that leads to the top of the hill to the entrance to Pipan. The old Pipan has already been cleared and will go to scrap metal.
ejas123413. 07. 2022 17:10:52
Hello
I'm interested in Montaz
Is it possible as a loop and where is better up and where down
I would go from Pecol pasture
Thank you very much for answers.
mirank13. 07. 2022 17:25:10
No need to think much, up via Findeneg glacier and down Pipan, if you add ferrata Leva to Šhš you winwinking
ejas123413. 07. 2022 20:29:32
OK
I'll check how it looks
Thanks
garmont13. 07. 2022 20:43:30
Maybe this too:
In Findeneg quite serious climbing…
On Pipanova the ladder swings a lot and is 60m high…
On Leva steep ledges and quite some ironware…
So for experienced.smile
mirank13. 07. 2022 20:46:58
Just check yourself how much experience with such things you have, you know best. Good luck and steady step
jax14. 07. 2022 08:34:59
@garmont

Haven't been yet, but from photos the new Pipan ladder feels much more stable than the old one. So I'd speculate it swings much less now.
dprapr14. 07. 2022 09:13:21
It was quite solid before too.
Only danger was scree and rocks above it sent down by careless Montaz visitors onto the ladder. Not safest to climb if someone above you.
mikkeni27. 10. 2022 08:00:39
Has anyone done this route this week maybe? Snow and such?
mikkeni30. 10. 2022 11:36:29
I was also there yesterday on Montaž. Starting point from Pecol, classic to the summit, then extension via ferrata Leva to Špik Hude Police - perfect day. More at:

http://ma-uc.blogspot.com/2022/10/montaz-in-spik-hude-police.html
MANGRT2. 07. 2023 19:34:17
The path over Pipanovo ladder has changed significantly
https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/slo/montaz/1/567
garmont13. 08. 2023 12:02:37
After the renovation the ladder is more sturdy, hardly sways. However, they rerouted the path continuation above the ladder completely new. The path is very exposed and goes straight up the wall, almost to the ridge. SVK is pretty much mandatory.
nejka0230. 10. 2024 11:37:07
Has anyone been there recently by chance? Are crampons needed, is there snow? Thanks for info
drugi žagar15. 12. 2025 17:06:30
Is the path to Montaž via Pipanova lestev using via ferrata gear more demanding than the path to Grintovec via Mlinarsko sedlo without gear? (Mainly interested in how exposed and slippery the sections without present protections are). Planning the ascent next summer.
Thanks for help.
Loerst17. 12. 2025 09:01:21
In short - no. Regardless of the above description, my feeling was that there are lots of protections and they were in excellent condition and I didn't miss them anywhere. Just don't forget helmets, because stuff really flies down often, sometimes due to chamois, sometimes due to clumsy tourists.
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