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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Begunjska Vrtača / Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)

Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)

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Starting point: Ljubelj (1058 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4324°N 14,2602°E
Route name: Lenuhova grapa
Walking time: 2 h 25 min
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Elevation gain: 933 m
Elevation difference along the route: 933 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 16.460
 7 people like this post
Number of photos: 13
Number of comments: 2
Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go to the exit Ljubelj and follow the road ahead to the border crossing. Just a few meters before the border crossing signs for Zelenica point us to the left and after a few 10 meters of additional driving the road brings us to the parking lot below the ski center Zelenica.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we head onto the footpath that runs along the left side of the ski slope through the forest in the direction of the Dom na Zelenici hut. A wide cart track brings us after ten minutes of walking to a ski track. We continue along the edge of the ski slope and after a shorter gentle ascent a large meadow opens on the right side along which there is another track. We head onto this track and follow it to the top, where we encounter a wide cart track. We follow the cart track, which in unfavorable conditions is exposed to avalanches, to the spot where it again brings us to a ski track.
Here we leave the ski slope and head towards the south straight up the gully. The steepness is quite significant, which is noticeable as we quickly gain altitude. Somewhere approximately halfway we traverse to the left towards the NW ridge of Begunjska vrtača to the entrance into the route. The entrance is clearly visible, but for a better idea let me just say that there are two entrances. Which one we choose depends mainly on the snow conditions. If there is little snow, the entrance jump can be quite iced (UIAA 4-/M), but if there is a lot of snow, there is no entrance jump at all. After a varied start, the route opens up, which first goes steeply up to a sort of confluence of two gullies—we continue on the left one, as the right is interrupted by an overhang. In pleasant climbing we approach the snow field that divides the route into two parts. From the snow field we head into the only possible passage—continuation of the gully, which soon brings us below the exit onto the upper snow field, where the route ends. What follows is only a long traverse across the snow field to the spot where a short gully opens up, which takes us onto the ridge and thus to the summit. We descend the same route or the more recommended descent gully. The tour can be extended along the ridge to Veliki vrh Begunjščice and descend there via the Centralna grapa or grapa Y.
Although the easiest in Begunjska vrtača, the Lenuhova route is a serious tour of moderate difficulty. It can get stuck right at the beginning; if we don't climb the jump, we can try entering to the right of it, but even there we can't avoid a few meters on rock. From the made belay station we then descend into the continuation of the route.
Difficulty: IV-, 300 m—the route is not equipped. It does, however, offer many options for belaying the second. The angle ranges from 40° upwards. The steepest part exceeds 55°. For a better idea, I attach a drawing of the route and the descent.
route map - Begunjska Vrtača
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača1
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača2
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača3
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača4
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača5
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača6
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača7
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača8
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača9
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača10
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača11
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača12
Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača13
Discussion about the trip Ljubelj - Begunjska Vrtača (Lenuhova grapa)
JusAvgustin13. 01. 2014
Let this be my first opinion, as I climbed the route yesterday and took my friend into it too. We can only wish for better conditions, since the entry jump is completely filled in, the gully continuation is hard and really squeaky. The middle traverse is the only trickier spot but there are really good "ice axe placements". From the upper snowfield the conditions change but still very good. There's enough snow to exit via the direct variant and the ramp onto the extensive snowfield below the summit.

LP
Zgembo26. 06. 2014
Someone sawn off the stamp, some people apparently take collecting stamps literally.
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