Krma - Tosc (northern approach from Bohinjska vratca)

Access to starting point:
From Mojstrana in Gorenjska we drive into the Krma valley, where we turn onto the forest road towards Kovinarska koča, and from there further to the end of the road to the parking lot Pri Lesi, where there are already signs for Triglav National Park.

Route description:
At the end of the forest road or from the parking lot Pri Lesi, we begin our path first on a gentle road. The poorer road continues for some time over smaller scree fields, then it starts to rise gently and turns into a rocky cart track. When we cross a somewhat larger torrent, the path begins to ascend more steeply through denser forest. Higher up, out of the forest, the path enters a belt of dwarf pines mixed with scrub, and over the mentioned slope we ascend on scree interspersed with larger rocks. After a little less than an hour of walking, at an altitude of about 1400 m, the path flattens again and brings us to a nice grassy plain called Vrtača. On the other side of the plain, the path starts ascending again and after about 15 minutes of further walking brings us to Malo polje, where along the path in the middle of the plain among larger boulders we notice a junction, where cairns often stand; apart from faded inscriptions and blazes, there are unfortunately no other signs for Bohinjska vratca or Vodnikov dom, as the main marked path continues towards Triglav.
We continue on the narrow path to the left in the direction of Bohinjska vratca and Vodnikov dom. The little-trodden and poorly marked path starts to ascend gradually, first through sparse larch forest, then it brings us to a wide scree slope. The path upward over the scree becomes steeper and steeper and winds in numerous zigzags towards the saddle between Vernar and Tosc - called Bohinjska vratca. The last part of the path below the saddle is steeper and scree-covered, and due to the proximity of vertical walls below Vernar, there is an increased risk of falling rocks.
From Bohinjska vratca we turn left (right Vernar, down Vodnikov dom), towards the mighty wall of Tosc with wide and stepped ledges. Already after a few dozen meters we reach a quite demanding entry and steep approx. 8 m chimney (I-II), which fortunately has enough footholds and handholds to overcome successfully. Anyone who has too much trouble climbing here should not continue, as there are at least two more such demanding spots on the ascent, where one must climb over a shorter rocky step or rocky ledge.
The easiest ascent - is in the most optimal direction somehow triply twisted: up the first chimney, to the left over the rocky ledge, to the right over the rocky ledge, to the left over the rocky step, and then diagonally to the right over three smaller scree tongues and finally once more to the left along the shallow and scree-covered ridge all the way to the summit meadows (see picture). Some cairns are always placed there, but sometimes unfortunately not exactly in the right places, so for choosing the best direction one should always look ahead first rather than just follow them.
In general, the rocky step on the left side is steeper and more demanding for ascent, on the right side - looking upwards - less steep, but the terrain more ruined and scree-covered, constantly slipping and crumbling underfoot, so the risk of falling rocks is high, especially for any followers behind us. Therefore, we make good use of some intermediate green traverse bands to find upward passages. The crossings over rocky steps or ledges in the second half or continuation are no longer overly demanding and with good route choice do not exceed the difficulty of the first entry chimney; for those less experienced in climbing skills and orientation, accompaniment by a guide and occasional belaying is recommended, especially at crossings over any harder ledge.
Descent from the summit of Tosc is usually done via the normal approach and marked path that leads to it from the south side, but this path goes around to Vodnikov dom and then back to Bohinjska vratca – if returning to Krma – which is lengthy and very hot in summer.

Along the route: Bohinjska vratca (1979m)

We recommend: similar trips, panorama, summit register