Koča na Gozdu - Prisank / Prisojnik (Hanzova pot)
Starting point: Koča na Gozdu (1226 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,4399°N 13,7624°E |
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Route name: Hanzova pot
Walking time: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B/C
Elevation gain: 1321 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1350 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 120.339
 | 7 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
From Kranjska Gora over mountain pass Vršič we drive towards Bovec or vice versa, but only to the mountain hut Koča na Gozdu, where we park on a parking lot in front of the mountain hut.
Route description:
From the mountain hut Koča na Gozdu we continue a few tens of meters on the road in the direction of Vršič, and then left downwards a footpath branches off. We go on the mentioned footpath and on the right side we will also notice a signpost “Hanzova pot 5h”. The path then soon brings us out of the forest and starts ascending on the scree by rare dwarf pines upwards. Such a path then brings us to the entry of the climbing part of the path, which is situated near the smaller waterfall.
At the entrance into the wall we continue a little right and we start ascending with the help of pegs and steel cables. The path then brings us to another waterfall, which we cross with the help of pegs. Next follows a little less demanding crossing of steep slopes towards the west. Later, the path turns to the left and it ascends past some dwarf pines. On the right side here a nice view opens up towards a little larger waterfall, which is falling over steep walls. Next follows a little steeper ascent on mostly unsecured slope, and then the path turns right into the wall and steeply ascends by numerous pegs and a steel cable. Next again follows a crossing of a slightly exposed slope. The path leads us past a smaller statue of Mary, which is situated left in the wall. After that, the path turns a little to the left and then follows a short descent with the help of pegs and steel cables, which brings us to the snow field. The snow field usually lasts throughout the year, and for crossing we urgently need an ice axe and crampons. On the other side of the snow field the path then turns a little right and becomes easier. We ascend on a grassy slope past some larches, and then we continue towards the west and on ledges we cross precipitous slopes. The slope then again becomes less steep and the path brings us to a junction, which is situated at an altitude of 1800 meters. To the right leads the path towards Prednje okno, and we continue left on Hanzova pot.
After a short undemanding ascent we then several times steeply ascend by the steel cable with the help of numerous pegs. The path then brings us on quite level slopes on the south side of the peak Hanzov Turn (2040m). Here is usually one more snow field, which is considerably less steep than the first one.
We continue slightly right below the steep walls of Prisojnik and then we ascend through a slightly gravelly gully towards the notch on the south side of the peak Hudičev steber (2237m). Here before the entrance into the very demanding part of the path is also a logbook.
The path further almost vertically ascends with the help of steel cables and pegs, after that on ledges crosses precipitous slopes towards the west. Later, the path turns to the left and starts ascending on quite steep northern slopes upwards. This part of the path mostly isn't secured therefore a little more caution is needed. The path then turns to the left and on a less steep slope brings us on the northeast side of the peak. Here the path again becomes very demanding and first vertically ascends on rungs and then also on a slightly exposed slope with the help of steel cables and pegs. From here follows only a short ascent to the top of Prisojnik.
Hanzova pot on Prisojnik is the longest secured climbing path in Slovenia and also technically belongs among the most difficult. Because of snow fields on the path, even in the summer time the use of an ice axe and crampons is mandatory.
For the descent it is recommended to choose Slovenska pot.
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Križ
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Discussion about the trip Koča na Gozdu - Prisank / Prisojnik (Hanzova pot)
Show older messages
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| karlin5. 09. 2009 |
Hello!
I'm wondering if anyone has recently gone to Prisank by chance - I'm interested in the condition of the path, how much snow is left?
Thanks!
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| skrajnik5. 09. 2009 |
In my opinion, the upper pictures were taken recently, so this is quite realistic..
I conclude, because the path wasn't described before, saw it for the first time this week..
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| Rok5. 09. 2009 |
The pictures are from September 1st.
The snow was very hard, so the use of ice axe and crampons is necessary.
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| karlin20. 07. 2010 |
Has anyone accidentally gone along Hanzova pot to Prisank recently - what is the path like, is there still any snow anywhere?
Thanks!
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| knap422720. 07. 2010 |
Look at the two posts before yours, there is snow and it will remain. Regards
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| JusAvgustin8. 08. 2010 |
The snowfield without crampons and ice axe is not passable, snow hard and compacted, in short crampons and go! Protections, as many as there are O.K. At some places the path is exposed and unprotected. Caution and common sense required. The most beautiful panoramic path around! At the summit at 9am. Alone until 10am, then... 
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| CarKuki25. 08. 2010 |
We visited it on Saturday 21.08. Definitely the most beautiful secured path we have. Some crossed the snowfields without crampons, just with an ice axe, which I advise against, because you can quickly end up at Tičar :-)) Part of the path is quite crumbly and mostly unsecured, which makes it all the more beautiful. I advise against it for those afraid of heights and exposure, and recommend it to those with some experience on similar paths. The nickname of the hardest among us certainly holds true. Maybe not so much technically but due to the lack of security. I'll see it again :-)) As the guy before me said, use your brains and happy path.
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| ania27. 08. 2010 |
today was on Prisank via HANZOVA. all ok, but I don't recommend crossing the snowfield without crampons and ice axe  .
the weather initially held, but as expected fog appeared at the top, so visibility was zero  .
ONCE AGAIN DO NOT GO ON THE PATH WITHOUT CRAMPONS AND ICE AXE.
LP A.
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| 0_Veter_030. 08. 2010 |
Yesterday went via Hanzova to Prisank. Weather was very nice; current snowfield without ice axe is not passable (or not recommended), crampons should also be used (a 'slot' has formed between rock and snow, so some skill is needed to climb onto the snowfield). Otherwise exceptional views, enjoyment, but at the summit ... crowds 
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| ponosen31. 08. 2010 |
--I went on 21.8. only with crampons. You go comfortably, just be careful stepping at the beginning, then it goes smoothly on the snow only with crampons. but carefully!
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| JusAvgustin31. 08. 2010 |
crampons, what if you slip with crampons? you'd probably have a hard time stopping without an ice axe
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| ponosen31. 08. 2010 |
..Yeah sure, if you're above the drops and your hand or foot slips off the peg or cable..you go into the abyss too.
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| JusAvgustin31. 08. 2010 |
Isn't it beautiful, right? Especially the eye?
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| ben16. 09. 2010 |
Yeah, Bojan, I think you've somewhat simplified this Hanzova. You're probably still under the impression of those Austrian via ferratas, where without full gear you really have no business. The via ferrata set is obligatory for many here, though in my younger years I climbed it without, and also without crampons and ice axe (there was no snow under the gully then). And a tip: on the Vršič road you'll walk about 500m total, the rest on paths that shorten the route to the car considerably.
Cheers B
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| Irina20. 08. 2011 |
Wishes are one thing, reality another. In short, I'd like to head to Prisank via Hanzova pot.
I'm not a beginner, pitons, cables, cliffs and crossings are not foreign to me, but why be on the lookout for handholds the whole way if you can also enjoy.
So, where can I hire an experienced mountain guide? There's no woman who could safely lead me across the wall.
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| BT8820. 08. 2011 |
On Wednesday I hiked this path alone excellently and recommend it to everyone who prefers wild nature Good luck
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| BT8820. 08. 2011 |
Irina was supposed to write this on Tuesday evening. btw we need at least an ice axe though yeah... otherwise as Bojan wrote, complete protection but rather little
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| Tadej3. 09. 2011 |
The described path is CLOSED due to a rockfall until further notice!
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| Irina3. 09. 2011 |
Obviously there won't be anything with my visit to Hanzova this year. It was meant to be that way. But next year it will be even more desirable.
I'm afraid some will set off on it just now, when it is very dangerous and closed due to the rockfall.
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| BT888. 09. 2011 |
Maybe someone knows where the rockfall happened 
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| skrajnik8. 09. 2011 |
it seems to me:
a little before the saddle above Hudichev pillar...
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| BT888. 09. 2011 |
Thanks for taking the trouble
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| Rakun6. 05. 2012 |
Does anyone have info when the renovation of this path is planned?
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| redbull17. 06. 2012 |
Is this trail already set up? If not, when will it be, if anyone knows
thanks for the reply.
best
redbull
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| Branee1. 07. 2012 |
I'd also like to go on this path next weekend or the one after, how is it with it if anyone knows?
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| panda106. 07. 2012 |
Hi
For everyone tempted by Hanzova pot to Prisank. The repair of the path where there was a deadly dangerous rockfall last year should take place on Thursday, July 14, although I doubt it will be fixed in one day.
So, a bit more patience, I'm sure when the path is restored there will be an announcement on hribi.net
Good luck and stay safe!
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| ljubitelj gora3. 08. 2012 |
The path is repaired and open again, safe and happy hiking. Best regards
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| gorski škrat3. 08. 2012 |
Greetings to all mountain lovers, question though: on Monday, 6.8 I plan to go along Hanzova, and I'm interested in how it is with crossing the first lower snow... is there a lot??? very hard??... any info welcome. thanks. and lots of enjoyment in the mountains
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| Jonny_6. 08. 2012 |
I'm also interested, how is it with the snow - is winter gear needed?
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| ben6. 08. 2012 |
I was on Hanzova on Saturday. There is a snowfield with quite a large bergschrund. If you manage to climb onto the snow, crampons and ice axe are essential. I descended below the snow to the end of the snowfield, where you have to climb down a two-meter slimy step.
LP B
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| Jonny_7. 08. 2012 |
Ben, thanks for the reply. How much time is lost if you go under the snowfield?
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| ljubitelj gora11. 08. 2012 |
We went today on Hanzova path, crampons and ice axe not necessary, harness and via ferrata set recommended, carefully, due to falling rocks.
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| urbancek11. 08. 2012 |
Yeah and where did you go then without ice axe and crampons? Because when I went, it didn't look very pleasant to me there on the edge
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| ljubitelj gora11. 08. 2012 |
It melts from day to day quickly and without meaning carry ice axe and crampons with you, and don't linger under the snowfield, because someone wrote to me that in the past it has already collapsed on a mountaineer. We went along the right side, first two smaller ice steps and under the snowfield which was 2 meters above us. But I was all the time careful of rocks and it seemed eerie to me, all those collapses in the past, falling rocks, our group didn't get any unpleasant package, so start early, day breaks before the wall around 5.30, we all had via ferrata set, but use it, even if I already had it on I used it also for protection, if a rock hits you and you fall the set will hold you a couple of meters below the accident site, otherwise the fall would be fatal.
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| urbancek11. 08. 2012 |
Well, I believe it is melting... But I would say it's more dangerous to walk under the hanging ice than above it...
Anyway, those "steps" on the right at least didn't look innocent to me... Best regards!
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| ljubitelj gora11. 08. 2012 |
Those steps, slowly then it goes, but you can bypass it over the scree above the snowfield, like those two Croats, but not safer, if you're above the snowfield it can give way, because you don't know what's below.
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| urbancek11. 08. 2012 |
Uf, it really took it in one week, that you still walk up there. Well LG, better fall on your butt than on your head, agree?
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| ljubitelj gora13. 08. 2012 |
Time: We needed 5 hours for the ascent, descent along the ridge a bit faster due to approaching showers, about 2:30 hours to Poštarski dom.
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| nataša115. 08. 2012 |
Today I walked and climbed Kopiščarjeva path to Prisojnik. I'm wondering if anyone has done both Hanzova and Kopiščarjeva and can share their experiences on which path variant is harder? I know neither is easy, at least from the photos.
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| HMatjaž15. 08. 2012 |
Hanzova is technically more demanding
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| SiKT15. 08. 2012 |
Today up via Hanzova and down via Kopiščarjeva.
Kopiščarjeva definitely harder (the middle section could be called a mini via ferrata) while Hanzova doesn't deviate from the Slovenian average. Otherwise both easy in my opinion.
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| Dr.ejči16. 08. 2012 |
I absolutely agree with SiKT-o/m.
Hanzova is a very, very nice path (thanks Hanz and Mother Nature), naturally routed through natural passages. Apart from two wet steps by the snowfield and the vertical from H. saddle it is (my opinion) technically undemanding...(a bit disappointed). For a slightly better mood, there was some easy unprotected scrambling from the police viewpoint.
Descent via Kopiščarjeva (technically more demanding!). Noticeable difference from last year... due to mass tourism more crowded and worn.
By the way! From the path towards Erjavčeva we wanted to shortcut to the valley towards the car. A nice trodden scree (scree field) led us, which ended in fairly dense scrub. After struggling we (not the only ones, judging by the tracks) found a small gully and descended through it... In short, if you're not scree enthusiasts, I advise against it.
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| urbancek16. 08. 2012 |
It depends, but personally I would also agree with SiKT's opinion... For experienced hikers, neither is particularly difficult...
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| merkur16. 08. 2012 |
Tine Mihelič writes in the "cult" JA guidebook that Hanzova pot is certainly the most demanding approach to Prisojnik. Due to its length, the known snowfield (merciful this year) and the poorly secured intermediate upper part (perhaps after repair there's some significant change there, but I doubt it). He ranks Kopiščarjeva among the most boldly routed in our country, mentioning also the large amount of iron (real ferrata), where using self-belay is recommended. Incidentally, a larger number of protection devices and the resulting possibility of self-belaying reduces the technical difficulty of the path. So Mihelič, and many agree with him, which doesn't mean that for some such paths aren't easy, even childishly easy. Still, they certainly don't belong to the Slovenian average!
For a good (personal) comparison of the difficulty of these (or other) paths, it makes sense to hike both in the same direction within a short time frame. I would be interested in the comments of predecessors if they hiked the mentioned paths in the opposite direction, which is rare. Perhaps then Kopiščarjeva would lose something, and Hanzova would gain in difficulty.
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| Boštjan MK16. 08. 2012 |
I sign everything, merkur. Definitely nicely routed, Hanzova of course, mostly along natural passages, as predecessors already write. Of course, Kopiščarjeva would be harder without the iron.
I sincerely hope that the wave from neighboring e.g. Austria never reaches us, where they compete in newly opened secured paths. Soon they'll run out of letters too....C, D, E...
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| Keko16. 08. 2012 |
You all seem against C, D, E, but in reality, these paths in Austria are teeming with Slovenians.
At least the Austrians know how to market, that's why they are as they are, and we here as we are, one big pity.
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| Boštjan MK16. 08. 2012 |
So we agree, Keko, that the "iron" stays in Austria, and it's close enough for us Slovenians too. Whoever wants can go just across the border to enjoy, whoever craves still quite pristine scenic highlands like e.g. Krstenica can enjoy at home.
Well, prayer flags wouldn't belong on Prisank either, as we know where they "belong".
Personally, I'm against building new ("violent") secured paths, perhaps conditionally for if some were routed through natural passages. But here's another problem, as we in Slovenia already have plenty of marked paths, hunting paths and all other trails should remain just that. There's no greater joy than after all the crashing through brushwood, groping because of backtracking a few meters, sweaty rags... finally finding the passage ahead to the saddle, summit, natural window... But I'm afraid I've strayed a bit from Hanzova pot, which is certainly an excellent work. More on this achievement at:
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/68989/
Hmm... on marketing perhaps very briefly. When we start pouring money into the mountains, into the mountaineering paradise, we (in)voluntarily also bring in quarrels from the valleys.
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| nataša116. 08. 2012 |
For a moment I'd return to Hanzova and Kopiščarjeva… then you can continue the discussion on ferratas… Thanks for all your described experiences and opinions. I assume that all of you who contributed comments are experienced mountaineers or even alpinists, and so I've concluded that the best is for me to go see the "look" of Hanzova myself. Hats off to the guys who routed any path to Prisojnik or help maintain them, so we can travel them carefree and admire the beauties of this majestic mountain. The path under Zvoniki to the last window and further to Škrbina also fascinated me a lot… vaaauuuu… quite airy and incredible passages.
Kopiščarjeva also reminds me quite a bit of a ferrata system, although not quite, since the passages are sensibly routed, which doesn't hold for ferratas. Anyway - easier or harder, for me it was also excellent training for the ferrata on Mali Pal - maybe even Cellon??? That's already another "world" that occasionally appeals, although I'm not overly enthusiastic about such interventions in nature myself. But if they exist... my boycott won't make them fewer.
I wish everyone lots of enjoyment in hiking in the mountains and around them, especially the group of five guys (Marko, Janez, Janko, Štefan, Andraž), who on Sunday accompanied Irena and me through this unpredictable rocky world that gives each as much as one takes oneself.
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| Kekec66620. 08. 2012 |
I'm interested which one you recommend for the first time on Prisank, Kopiščarjeva or Hanzova, and which one back, the easiest for descent, it doesn't have to be one of these two.. And self-protection set Ovira or Obveza?..thanks
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| ljubitelj gora20. 08. 2012 |
Given that Hanzova is open and you can do it without winter gear, go for it, but take a harness and self-belaying kit with you, there are sections where it's wise to clip in.
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| mako4420. 08. 2012 |
You can find the description of the opening of Hanzova pot from 1926 in Planinski vestnik from that year. Interesting writing. Interesting, 30 years ago use of SVK was unknown, OK, in alpinism quite OK, but here it seems like exaggeration to me, above all I think mental and physical preparedness is first, but it's true, everyone knows for themselves. Safe steps to all of you together!
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| slavi090220. 08. 2012 |
hello, my husband and I also did this path on Saturday 18.8.2012, the snowfield can be bypassed, we did it above (winter gear not needed), we had SVK, you use it at your own discretion, from the top we returned via Grebenska.... I wish everyone nice moments in our beautiful mountains
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| poloneza121. 08. 2012 |
Hi. 21.8. at the top in three hours, ice axe and crampons no longer needed.
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| turbo22. 08. 2012 |
They surely cut it on foot from Kr. Gora into the slope, since it took them a full three hours. Three hours!!!
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| Keko22. 08. 2012 |
450 meters of ascent per hour and you're up in three hours, why be so surprised. For someone who is well fit and not interested in the surroundings, who doesn't bother with taking photos, it's not that hard to achieve.
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| nataša122. 08. 2012 |
A week ago on this portal I was asking which path to Prisojnik is harder: Kopiščarjeva or Hanzova??? From yesterday onwards, I answered the question with empirical proof. Regardless of the fact that there is no snowfield now, Hanzova is technically and fitness-wise more demanding. It offers a "visit" to two more two-thousanders, which was a real psychophysical relief for my body. I didn't need SVK, but that depends on the individual's experience. The last part offers excellent rock for climbing and even right below the summit where there was a collapse, they excellently renovated the path.
Now I'm wondering how Hanz could carry sheep through there where it's now called Hanzova stena??? He must have been extremely strong and skillful!!! Another Martin Krpan.
I descended via Slovenska (southern path), which is also excellently maintained and one, two, three I was at Poštarski dom. For some, the thought that they then have to walk to the car, which we leave at the starting point for this direction near "Koča na Gozdu", is a real trauma. I recommend such hikers to reach the road and surely someone will be found who will take the tired mountaineer in their car. Thanks to the driver who safely and very friendly drove my friend and me to the starting point.
Once again thanks to everyone for your valuable opinions that spurred my curiosity so now I know everything firsthand.
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| poloneza124. 08. 2012 |
To clarify. A little less than 3 hours, and about half an hour of that I used for photos and maps etc. Lp
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| krpan25. 08. 2012 |
Ah, I'm more modest .
From Erjavčeva koča via Kopiščarjeva to the top 4 hours and 40 minutes.
KHMMM, lest I forget to add... I went up backwards , barefoot and all ascending hikers could throw stones at me
So Poloneza1 is a real "amateur" 
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| ljubitelj gora25. 08. 2012 |
After 14 days I found myself again on Hanzova pot, almost no snowfields left, long, not too strenuous, scenic, interesting, walk among larches and tall grass, the trail is really worth a visit.
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| poloneza127. 08. 2012 |
Well what can you do, amateur up or down. But it was good training before Matterhorn. Bye all little Slovenians (per SM).
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| bostjanp7. 09. 2012 |
Does anyone have info if the snowfield is still there or if crossing is possible without crampons? Urgent.
Best,
B
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| HRIBOLAZEC 187. 09. 2012 |
I went on this route on 15.8. already then it was possible to get around the snowfield without crampons
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| bostjanp7. 09. 2012 |
One more info please. How does the difficulty of Hanz's route compare to Kopiščar's route? Which one is more exposed and which is not or more "normal" for ascent to the summit?
LPB
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| Bojan_A7. 09. 2012 |
Hanz's is easier, longer, more time-consuming. None of the routes, neither Hanz's nor Kopiščar's, is really suitable for descent.
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| iztokkosir9. 09. 2012 |
No more snow. Ice axe and crampons can stay home. Helmet is mandatory!
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| dunjo20. 09. 2012 |
This Saturday, 22/9 we have Prisojnik via Hanzova planned, so I'm interested if anyone knows the conditions on the trail after that weather deterioration last week. Is Hanzova still suitable for ascent at all? Thanks!
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| andrej7820. 09. 2012 |
No snow, or just a trace, so off you go happily!
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| ljubitelj gora20. 09. 2012 |
No way, don't recommend because of new snow. Below the summit free climbing, right under the top there are fixed protections but it's exposed.
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| mtjkristan20. 09. 2012 |
Agree with predecessor, where free climbing has high slip risk. Wait a bit, wind might clear it and chance this year still.
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| veja53. 10. 2012 |
Hello! Is there still any snow on Hanzova?
Thanks for the information.
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| dunjo27. 06. 2013 |
Since last year Hanzova pot to Prisank was not ascended, we would try next weekend. Does anyone have information on the condition of the path? Would it already be possible for quite experienced hikers, or is it still too early? Thanks everyone for info
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| Daaam27. 06. 2013 |
without winter gear don't go, and if you are not winter savvy then better wait a bit longer..
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| JusAvgustin27. 06. 2013 |
Tine advises in his book: after July 15th, and even then crampons and ice axe mandatory. The snowfield under Hudičev žleb will persist all year this year. The snow on the ramp will also linger for some time.
Best regards, and wisely`
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| kona7922. 07. 2013 |
and who knows what the condition of the path is?
thanks LP
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| jax22. 07. 2013 |
Take winter gear anyway. Probably the whole season this year.
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| oybl3. 08. 2013 |
Was on Prisank today. The path is beautiful and strenuous, under Hudičevim stebrom there is a lot of snow, but there are beaten tracks, so crampons are not needed, only ice axe. And a big f***off to the horde of motorcyclists riding to Vršič, halfway I felt like I was next to the Ljubljana ring road...
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| janik9. 08. 2013 |
Hello, does anyone have any information on current conditions on Hanzova pot to Prisank. We plan to go up this path on Sunday.
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| Daaam10. 08. 2013 |
janik?.. did you think about reading what's written above your question
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| jedriličar10. 08. 2013 |
No, it's much easier to post a question, then no one answers, and we're all in it together for one k....
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| Daaam10. 08. 2013 |
@jedriličar ..yeah, life on the forum is tough, sometimes even more tiring than in real life
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| jedriličar10. 08. 2013 |
Yes, you have to read a lot .... sorry, I just couldn't resist writing a comment
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| janez.novak10. 08. 2013 |
What do I know jedriličar, they always answer me, if not others then Igor
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| jedriličar10. 08. 2013 |
Since Igor is one big good soul, and has nerves like steel cables
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| Becar10. 08. 2013 |
Some of you are so smart that it hurts you. The last information about this trail was given for 3.8. @janik is asking for 11.8., I assume that in the case of snowy conditions the tour comes into consideration later for him. Dear guys, not everyone has time to hike in the mountains all year round, but has to take up some concrete work. For such people this kind of information is very important. If you don't know the answer to the asked question, better refrain from tasteless comments as well.
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| jedriličar10. 08. 2013 |
@Becar: read your guides a bit, especially if you have one about Hanza's path to Prisank, and you'll find info that the mentioned snow patch lasts all year. But it's also written above: there's a lot of snow under the Hudicev steber ... , and maybe our comments (Daam, yes) are inappropriate, but janik's question is also inappropriate, like question, like answer. But your response is at least in bad taste, not to say something else...
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| Daaam10. 08. 2013 |
always and everywhere Becar..I hope you won't jump out at me from the chips once...
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| Becar10. 08. 2013 |
Jedrilicar, you tell others that they don't look back enough at the conditions, but now you've shot yourself in the foot, because if you had looked back just a little, you would see that for example last year there was almost no snow on the mentioned trail all summer, so not everything is in the guides. I thought you at least have that much knowledge that at this moment snow conditions change very quickly, so janik's question was completely in place.
Daam, true. Where users will be messed with, there becar will look from the chips. And don't eat too many chips, because they're not healthy.
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| jedriličar10. 08. 2013 |
Every further comment is completely superfluous ...
But I'm sorry for the goat ...
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| ljubitelj gora10. 08. 2013 |
Ice axe, crampons, helmet, via ferrata kit,...
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| Becar15. 08. 2013 |
And what would that glider pilot tell me anyway? I don't understand you at all . Urbancek posted pictures that nicely show how much snow is still there currently. From them one can conclude that this year the snow WILL REMAIN ALL SEASON. Until that day, however, there were no such pictures or messages giving that information on the forum. As I already said, it is not true that it is like that every year. And what should I learn from this now?
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| jedriličar15. 08. 2013 |
To teach you that such compacted and reworked snowfields here melt about 1-2 cm per day, and since @oybi wrote on 3.8. that there is still a lot of snow under the pillar, your comments were completely superfluous. That's what you should learn, enough for the smart one.
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| Becar15. 08. 2013 |
A lot - a little, that's relative. A quality picture says the most. Just check under the topic To Triglav, a few days ago they were discussing snow on the Planika - Škrbina path. The warden at Planika reportedly told someone there is LITTLE snow. Now go take a look, like I did on 12.8.2013, if there is really LITTLE snow. But would someone post a picture? Nooo. Better to philosophize about what is a lot and what is little.
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| Maticc22. 02. 2014 |
A slightly different kind of question.
This snowfield - is it before entering the wall i.e. climbing?
Does anyone know if this is that Škedenj, a remnant of the glacier under Prisank?
These things interest me, but accessible data is very scarce.
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| ben22. 02. 2014 |
@Maticc: The snowfield is somewhere at the end of the first third of the path from the entry into the secured section! Take a look at the pictures above in the description! But for the second question I don't know.
Best, B
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| JusAvgustin22. 02. 2014 |
The cirque in Škedenj(s) is on the other side! On the Krniška one.
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| gs18. 07. 2014 |
I'm curious about the Hanzova pot to Prisank... Do I need an ice axe and crampons or is a helmet and self-belay kit sufficient?
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| jax18. 07. 2014 |
Definitely you need them. Otherwise, given the current snow conditions, it can be challenging even with winter equipment in places.
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| metod22. 08. 2015 |
Today the path was OK. Crossing the funnel, where there is usually snow, I recommend somewhere in the middle or a bit lower. I went higher, and it was unpleasant, unstable.
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| JusAvgustin23. 08. 2015 |
You mean the end of Hudičev žleb?
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| papez7826. 08. 2015 |
I'm interested in how it is with Hanzova pot to Prisank... Do I need an ice axe and crampons - thanks for the answer.
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| Domch2. 09. 2015 |
Very nice path, I recommend everyone to walk it. The fixed protections are impeccable, the snow was gone long ago this year. When I looked at these pictures, I was gripped by awe and respect. But when I walked it, I was thrilled and the path is not nearly as exposed as it looks in the pictures. It still deserves respect but is definitely easier than Kopiščarjeva.
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| sebaseba9. 01. 2016 |
We went on 1.1.2016. Up via Hanzova then approx. southern path.
Crossing that first snowfield was a bit problematic without snow, the others were ok. Higher up, especially from the cirque onwards there was quite a lot of snow. Conditions were more of a "mix", rock, snow+ice, rock, etc. (up/down crampons on for 15-30 min) Ferrata sections were thus the easiest part of the path.
For the descent via southern we mostly walked on some long snowfield downwards beside the path, so it was more off-trail. That was easier, as the snow was constant and it was already getting dark. Hanzova seemed a bit prolonged to us.
On the descent, especially at the end, we had crampons on constantly, even on slightly longer rocky sections.
We didn't use the self-belaying kit much, maybe more for "feeling" on one slightly frozen section right below the summit, but crampons and ice axe were very useful.
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| Matthew15. 07. 2016 |
Mountaineering greetings. Does anyone know the condition on Hanzova pot, how much snow is left, are crampons and ice axe needed? Thanks :-)
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| kufrio5. 08. 2016 |
Hey. Are crampons and ice axe still needed on Hanzova path? Thanks!
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| dpavli15. 08. 2016 |
Crampons and ice axe still needed for crossing the lower snowfield. Pozz
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| vmisurac21. 08. 2016 |
Does it have a track on the snowfield? Do I really need crampons and ice axe?
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| ElBombinho23. 08. 2016 |
Would anyone go on this path tomorrow and not mind some company?
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| ElBombinho9. 09. 2016 |
The snowfield is quite undermined, careful not to trigger it - especially at the edge. Good luck!
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| dejansok25. 08. 2017 |
Does anyone know if ice axe and crampons are needed for this weekend if going via Hanzova?
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| darinka425. 08. 2017 |
For Hanzova neither ice axe nor crampons needed. Nice if good weather and good condition. That snowfield below is nicely passable. It's covered with grit. Good luck on the trail!
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| rozirozi18. 09. 2018 |
Please for information, if anyone went on Hanzova to Prisojnik:
Is it dry or are there still snowfields? Is ice axe needed? Crampons?
Thanks!
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| Domch18. 09. 2018 |
Look under Prisojnik Hanzova - current conditions. The snowfield on this path is eternal, meaning winter gear is always needed for safe movement.
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| kolobar18. 09. 2018 |
Winter gear not needed if you're able to climb down a few meters. That way you can go around under the snowfield. If you're heading to Hanzova, you can probably manage that too.
Condition on 16.9.2018, when 11 of us passed the snowfield that way.
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| darinka416. 08. 2019 |
I was on Hanzova yesterday. This year you need to carry winter gear with you, otherwise you can't get through the snowfield. Quite a few turned back who didn't have it. You need both. Otherwise, it's a fitness-demanding path. Plenty of climbing, including free climbing. It took me 5 hours to the summit, as stated. Since there were few of us on the path, not a single pebble was dislodged, although there's lots of scree on the path. I descended the southern route and from Vršič walked along the Vršič road to the car, which I had near Koča na Gozdu.
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| dprapr16. 08. 2019 |
I read on the Slo-Alp forum that the snowfield does not pose a major problem when using a hammer.
What do I mean? Even with crampons it can be dangerous for some, but it can be done without, however not without tools.
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| darinka416. 08. 2019 |
I don't know what you're saying. The snow was hard and for now the best option is crampons with 12 teeth and ice axe. Otherwise, whatever suits each. Just get through safely.
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| AnteP9. 09. 2019 |
Does anyone have fresh information? Can the snowfield be bypassed from the lower side?
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| bbugari19. 09. 2019 |
Dear Ante, never go to Hanzova without ice axe and crampons so no bypassing of the eternal snowfield will even come into consideration.
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| BT889. 09. 2019 |
I haven't needed crampons to cross there yet, so .... it's true that everyone knows for themselves how and what.
If you have an ice axe you can carve steps, otherwise the snowpack is really very hard
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| darinka49. 09. 2019 |
This year you can't cross without using both. The snow was hard as concrete and all those who had an ice axe without crampons turned back. It's not the same every year.
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| AnteP12. 09. 2019 |
Yesterday 11.9 passed through there, no ice axe or crampons needed in current condition. And everything can be completely bypassed from the lower side.
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| jax12. 09. 2019 |
Thanks for the information ...
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| MartinU14. 10. 2019 |
Sadly the snowfield is now just history and can be bypassed without trouble. Ice axe and crampons on the path in summer are no longer needed.
Photo 14.10.2019
https://ibb.co/5sFZdLD
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| jax14. 10. 2019 |
Well, without gear you can cross only in late season, and not every year. And - truth be told - I'm quite happy about it.
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| ŠpRo2924. 10. 2019 |
Hello, I'm interested time-wise, how long it takes for a normal hiker, start via Hanzova and back via Jubilejna to Vršič. Which direction is usually used or easier, down or up through the last window? Has anyone been there in the last days, everything ok? Thanks in advance.
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| darinka424. 10. 2019 |
Last year but when days were longer we walked it. You need a via ferrata set and helmet. From the last window there is a quite exposed section. I remember the last part of the path to Vršič dragged on a lot. Luckily we got someone to drive us from Vršič to the car at Koča na Gozdu. For such a tour good fitness is needed. And definitely better to go when days are longer.
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| ŠpRo2924. 10. 2019 |
Thanks Darinka, the gear is always with us, Saturday is the last day before the clock changes, start at latest 5am, that should be enough. Approx. how long down from the top via Jubilejna?
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| bbugari124. 10. 2019 |
As usual, on paths like Jubilejna it's easier uphill. From the top down via Jubilejna over Mlinarica to Vršič takes about 4.5 hours.
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| KJ25. 10. 2019 |
Not that bad. Of course the tour is suitable for mountaineers. My opinion is that starting at 5:00 is too early. Dawn is only around 7:00. From the parking to the start of the wall is about 30min. And that initial part of the path was the most beautiful to me, so it would be a shame to do it in the dark without views. If you have some mountaineering fitness you'll be back at the car by late afternoon for sure. If not, I definitely advise against such a tour.
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| KJ25. 10. 2019 |
Not that bad. Of course the tour is suitable for mountaineers. My opinion is that starting at 5:00 is too early. Dawn is only around 7:00. From the parking to the start of the wall is about 30min. And that initial part of the path was the most beautiful to me, so it would be a shame to do it in the dark without views. If you have some mountaineering fitness you'll be back at the car by late afternoon for sure. If not, I definitely advise against such a tour.
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| Kvis25. 07. 2020 |
Hello, has anyone perhaps descended towards Koča na Gozdu/valley via the scree directly at the entrance to Kopiščarjeva or is it simply impassable below (cliff face)? See picture.
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| Dr.ejči25. 07. 2020 |
Yes, once when I was "bored" and my climbing partner and I tried a "shortcut" ...that scree is really tempting...well, my experience is that at the end of the scree you crash into scrub...there we, a bit left, stumbled upon a small dry gully down which we slid...it's overgrown, but I'm on "friendly terms" with scrub ...lower down the gully started getting wet and right at the bottom even interesting waterfalls form...there we dragged ourselves out into the woods and bypassed the gully...in short, it's not impassable, but not a stroll either ...good luck!
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| JusAvgustin25. 07. 2020 |
[img]http://shrani.si/f/2Z/sp/45BYe4Sd/20200725211726.jpg[/img]
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| Tomkun31. 07. 2021 17:57:46 |
Currently the snowfield has melted to such an extent that passage without proper equipment is impossible. At the entrance to it there is about 5 meters of practically vertical ice wall. I could get over it only because we were two and climbed individually, so we passed each other the ice axe and climbed with two. With one I wouldn't dare to climb. Two girls came after us but wisely turned back after consideration, because they had no ice axes and serious crampons. They looked if entering the snowfield higher up was possible, but found nothing safe enough.
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| BrigiK30. 08. 2023 13:40:06 |
On Sunday, 27.8.23, I went to Prisank via Hanzova pot. No snowfields, so ice axe and crampons not needed. Much of the path is unprotected, with some scrambling; I felt safe also because I was with an experienced mountaineer. Otherwise, it's in the shade, so a sunny day was really ideal for such an ascent. I was careful with every step due to a lot of loose sand. We descended via Slovenska pot, Hanzova seems unsuitable for descent to me due to those unprotected sections where slipping is possible.
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| gipeon9. 10. 2023 20:06:44 |
Shortly after the starting sign in the forest, you need to turn left and not follow the riverbed straight ahead. On picture 6 it's clearly visible that the riverbed is only crossed, you need to keep to the left direction. For a maximally utilized day, I recommend descent via the jubilee trail to Vršič, panorama lovers won't be disappointed
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| Marty15. 07. 2024 09:54:37 |
Has anyone been there recently? Is the path dry yet and are the fixed cables okay?
Regards
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| CarpeDiem24724. 08. 2024 22:04:59 |
Today we from PD Polzela in large numbers conquered Prisank via this trail. We were fully equipped (ice axe, crampons, self-belay kit, 30m rope and of course helmet).
Regarding crossing the snow patch, I inform you that all today's hikers tackled it along the lower edge, where it can be safely bypassed. For the descent itself, some skill is needed, and a few meters of rope doesn't hurt if you take it with you.
Further on, in the last third towards the summit, I expected somewhat more protection in places, but as mentioned multiple times on this forum; this trail is only for experienced mountaineers.
Good luck on the trail!
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| Marty26. 08. 2024 08:15:25 |
CarpeDiem247 if I understand correctly, ice axe and crampons are not needed?
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| Mitjap2316. 08. 2025 06:25:52 |
Hello, does anyone know the situation with the snowfield... are crampons and ice axe needed or can it be bypassed, many thanks for info, lp
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| mirank16. 08. 2025 13:19:46 |
If there was a bit more order on the forum and such things were posted and asked under current conditions where they belong, you would see that Mado described the conditions on 13.8. He clearly states that winter gear is needed.
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