Gradišče - Gradiška Tura (Furlan way)
Starting point: Gradišče (250 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 45,8323°N 13,971°E |
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Route name: Furlan way
Walking time: 1 h 15 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B/C
Elevation gain: 543 m
Elevation difference along the route: 543 m
Map: Nanos 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set
Views: 154.547
 | 2 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
From Razdrto we drive on the highway towards Nova Gorica or vice versa and we go to the exit Vipava. We follow the road ahead, towards Vipava and Gradišče. In the village Gradišče we notice the first mountain signposts, which we follow to a larger parking lot above the village Gradišče.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we head onto the path in the direction of Gradiška Tura and Abram. Initially a wide and gently sloping path quickly brings us to the first junction, where we continue straight (right St. Miklavž). After a few more steps of walking, the path brings us to a scree slope, over which we ascend diagonally onto bushy slopes. The path ahead ascends ever more steeply and soon brings us to the next junction, where we continue left following the signs »zelo zahtevna zavarovana pot« (very demanding secured path). Already at the beginning of the very difficult path we ascend almost vertically up the rocky slope secured with pegs and a steel cable. Then the path for a few steps becomes less demanding, turns slightly to the left and then steeply ascends alongside the steel cable to the right upward. For some time we ascend alongside the steel cable and soon come to a panoramic platform, which is a few steps from the path on the left side. At the platform from where there is a nice view of the Vipava valley there is also a small bench.
From the platform we continue right upward and the secured path brings us onto an exposed narrow ridge, which is well secured with a steel cable. The path in continuation gradually becomes less demanding and soon we come to a junction, where a less demanding path joins from the right.
Further we continue along the path, which occasionally still ascends quite steeply. A little below the summit on a rock we notice an interesting verse, behind which after a few steps we step onto the summit.
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Discussion about the trip Gradišče - Gradiška Tura (Furlan way)
Show older messages
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| jernejscek27. 09. 2009 |
Was today on Gradiška Tura to Abram, wonderful tour, climbing section dynamic, interesting and safe, pity it could be longer. The only remark is somewhat deficient markings after the top to Abram, specifically from crossing the gravel road to the hut. Recommend open eyes.
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| čebelar21. 02. 2010 |
We would come from Styria and I'm curious about the current conditions on Gradiška Tura, is there still any snow?
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| andrejjerina21. 02. 2010 |
Given that it is a demanding marked path, I recommend the necessary equipment for such paths. If nothing else, Gradiška Tura offers you the opportunity to practice a bit of high-altitude movement or paths similar to this one in summer. On the path you can expect occasional snow patches, which will most likely disappear more or less with today's afternoon thaw and tomorrow's weather (passing through Vipava Valley). LP Andrej
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| studencnik28. 02. 2010 |
On Saturday 27.2.2010 the path was in excellent condition, no snow anywhere, here and there a bit wet (because it rained the day before). And I also sweated properly from my forehead as it was really hot in the wall (no wind). Excellent for spring sunbathing!!!
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| majdicst27. 04. 2010 |
Today we climbed to Gradiška Tura via this path - first time. Very interesting that in this part of Slovenia you find such a route that even some of the "big" peaks of the Julian or Kamnik-Savinja Alps wouldn't be ashamed of. It seems to me that 1h 15min time requires you to be very well physically prepared, otherwise you can count on time between one and a half to two hours.
The fixed cables are in excellent condition, as are the pegs and staples. The viewpoint platform is also better than in the photos.
We then continued the path to Abram and Vojkova koča and descended to Razdrto. A pleasant one-day tour, if of course you have someone who drives you to Gradišče and waits for you in Razdrto.
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| JR_11229. 04. 2010 |
Today did the climbing part with 9-year-old daughter and 12-year-old son (in a rope team and self-belaying).
Excellent "school" - demanding enough, adrenaline enough, long enough (and at the same time short enough), low enough (while high mountains still under snow), ... If only there were more such "gems" scattered and equally maintained across Slovenia...
And almost until 12 o'clock the whole wall was pleasantly in shade...
Great day.
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| duma30. 04. 2010 |
Hello majdicst,
You can also do a circular one-day tour-
from Vojkova koča you can continue towards Podnanos. A bit below Lovski dom a path branches right towards sv. Nikolaj (well marked), then nice gentle path to starting point below Gradiška Tura.
From Vojkova koča to starting point, my colleague and I took approx. 3 hours.
Best, mountain greetings.
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| Buba18. 11. 2010 |
Great for beginner scrambling! Warm-up for the Alps!
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| grega_p26. 01. 2011 |
Furlanova was a very friendly choice yesterday, no wind and still quite good views over the Vipava Valley, the Karst and the Trnovsko prostranstvo. At the top it's a bit icy in places, otherwise no problems for walking. If you detour to Sv. Miklavž, ringing will be enabled only for basketball centers
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| jesihar30. 09. 2011 |
Is this tour a problem without a full via ferrata set?
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| BT8830. 09. 2011 |
Gradiška Tura is among the very difficult secured climbing routes then... check the pictures and assess Good luck
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| lola17. 10. 2011 |
On Saturday, my husband and I went to Gradiška Tura for the first time. I have to admit, it quite surprised me, at times I felt like I was in the high mountains  ) Too bad the climbing section is so short. I used the full via ferrata kit though. Wouldn't have dared without it... best regards
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| metod13. 07. 2012 |
Climbing up is very pleasant, the fixed protection is impeccable, descent via the "bypass" is the exact opposite: steep and rugged path. If I had known, I would have gone back down the climbing route too. But please, don't take this as general advice.
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| krevs3316. 11. 2012 |
Would this path be okay also for my son about 155 cm tall?? Are there any rocks too high?? Thanks
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| krevs3317. 11. 2012 |
Thanks for the reply 
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| krevs3324. 11. 2012 |
Today I climbed here. It was fantastic, but much shorter (climbing part) than I thought. From joining the easier path towards the summit it was slippery. Best regards
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| pirseb246. 05. 2013 |
Hello
I have a question about this ''via ferrata'', namely the following. I would really like to try climbing this ferrata but I don't know if I could manage it because I have some issues with heights.
I have been to Mangart via the Italian and easier route and to Triglav via Dolič pass up and along the ridge to Mali Triglav and back.
I'm interested if this path to Gradiška Tura is much harder than the ones mentioned above.
I would be grateful for any answer
Best regards
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| Kita6. 05. 2013 |
Furlanova pot is short, up to the viewpoint platform there's nothing special, that ridge towards the top is a bit more exposed but just be brave, it's not that bad...
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| strelec19546. 05. 2013 |
The trail is very well secured, true it's marked as very demanding in books and is in the company of more serious ferratas like Hanzova on Prisank, Plemenice etc. My opinion is that it's easier than those listed already due to orientation and much shorter. Maybe the protections are placed a bit further apart and thus cause some difficulty for smaller people.
Personally, I like to visit it most in winter time and even in snow it doesn't seem so bad to me
As for vertigo, I have no issues so I couldn't judge well if you're "ready" for this ferrata.
And one more thing from one of our greatest climbers who once said 70% of climbing is in the head, 30% in hands and feet.
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| dolenjka&primorc7. 05. 2013 |
Our advice... first try the easier variant (to the right of this more demanding tour there's an easier and less demanding one).. and if that doesn't cause you problems, which is also more suitable for descent among other things.. then you can go for the left, more demanding tour. Both are short, so if there's just a little fitness in the legs, no problem .. just be brave and good luck and helmet on the head of course... self-belaying I think is not necessary here..
Best
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| sla7. 05. 2013 |
Given that he says he has problems with heights, self-belaying is necessary. A few years ago there was a serious accident here with a happy ending.
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| strelec19547. 05. 2013 |
I remember that accident, if I'm not mistaken someone got caught on a peg during the fall with his pants belt, not everyone has such luck in misfortune.
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| Janiel747. 05. 2013 |
@dolenjka&primorc: I completely disagree with your suggestion... the easier variant is completely incomparable to the harder one and especially since height is a problem, self-belaying is essential. If nothing else for the psyche. If I caricature this comparison.. being able to bike doesn't mean you can be a pilot..
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| AT10. 05. 2013 |
I agree with Janiel74 that the right easier variant has no resemblance to the climbing left one. Self-belaying is recommended already just for the sense of safety if the person is not 100% convinced of their abilities. Pirseb24 I advise you to visit and check the location as the climbing section is well visible from below and you can assess yourself if you're ready for this path. I'm a host from Vipava so I could join at least for moral support good luck everyone and safe steps!
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| B210. 05. 2013 |
Hello everyone!
Furlanova pot IS very demanding! Self-belaying and helmet are obligatory here! Only thus equipped will we be able to safely climb the route... What good is just a helmet on the head if a stone accidentally hits your hand - and you fall as a result...
You'll end up below on the scree with helmet on your head... Common sense, because there's no joking here... Protections are not for show, climbing without belay is no heroic act but tempting fate! Too many accidents have already happened with known outcome... No offense and good luck!
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| JusAvgustin10. 05. 2013 |
What you wrote is self-evident to the responsible.
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| jax10. 05. 2013 |
Hello everyone!
Furlanova pot IS very demanding! Self-belaying and helmet are obligatory here! Only thus equipped will we be able to safely climb the route... What good is just a helmet on the head if a stone accidentally hits your hand - and you fall as a result...
You'll end up below on the scree with helmet on your head... Common sense, because there's no joking here... Protections are not for show, climbing without belay is no heroic act but tempting fate! Too many accidents have already happened with known outcome... No offense and good luck!
Ah, you all really overestimate this path... Nothing particularly demanding on it. If you take the via ferrata kit, it's very likely you'll stop at the nice bench below the start and just want to put it on when a local in sneakers and dirty shirt from vineyard work passes you and heads straight into the wall. This path is like most secured paths in our hills - made in times when via ferrata kits weren't used, and certainly not meant for belaying on it. If you feel better with the kit, take it, but it doesn't change the fact that in Slovenian high mountains there are a million paths more dangerous than this, without belay options even if wanted. Well, take the helmet, I recommend (although vineyard locals don't have it).
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| Becar10. 05. 2013 |
To all hikers inquiring about this tour I would say let Jax and his so-called "vineyard workers" go in sneakers and without protection until someone gets splattered. Don't listen to such "hillbilly" advice. Those more responsible towards themselves and their loved ones, just take the self-belaying kit. Extra safety is never superfluous.
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| y-33310. 05. 2013 |
@jax Such impudent statements are really not necessary. Even locals with dirty shirts are worthy workers and it's good that we have such people otherwise you and those like you would go hungry. No hard feelings.
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| jax10. 05. 2013 |
Oh, if that's how it was meant, I really have to apologize. The comment was not meant as any criticism of the locals who go up casually, but mainly disagreement with some of the above commentators who claimed the path is extremely difficult.
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| jax10. 05. 2013 |
Correcting myself, *if it was understood that way, ...
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| VanSims11. 05. 2013 |
I saw one such local. Where the easier variant joins the climbing one, I was resting a bit and from the top one gentleman arrived without anything (except clothes of course) and continued down the climbing part!
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| tinky11. 05. 2013 |
I haven't done Gradiška Tura yet, but I'm curious which climbing route in our mountains it can be compared to in terms of difficulty. I think there's more thunder here than rain.
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| gori11. 05. 2013 |
Let's be responsible to ourselves and others, the worst is underestimating the tour, the safety kit can often act as a psychological safety effect so use it.
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| Keko11. 05. 2013 |
Gradiška Tura is nicely secured with solid and compact rock and suitable for all normally developed and healthy people, without major mobility limitations and excessive fear of heights.
More experienced can safely go along it without belaying, those not fully confident in themselves should belay.
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| dprapr11. 05. 2013 |
Interesting how some people impose equipment on someone who doesn't need it!?
In my opinion, it's more dangerous if someone without "mileage" sets off with SVK on such a path than someone with "mileage" without it.
By the way, hasn't Jani Bele (who is active in the Information and Analysis Commission of the Mountain Rescue Association of Slovenia) mentioned somewhere on this forum that paths without belaying options are more dangerous than those riddled with cables.
SVK often gives us a false sense of security and consequently greater relaxation and less caution. It is of course necessary for difficult vias ferratas, children, and where the path is very frequented and the risk of falling rocks is higher.
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| joža x11. 05. 2013 |
Depends on the person, my companion and I "strolled" in flip-flops along Gradiška and overtook youngsters clipped to the cable. Where is the adventure, the point of such a tour if you're clipped on meaning nothing can happen to me. Only missing is wrapping ourselves in cotton wool.@jax you won't compare hardened locals from hard work with city folks.....
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| Becar11. 05. 2013 |
No, I will never agree with this, because common sense tells me that safety increases with the use of the kit for both inexperienced and experienced climbers.
Even a very experienced mountaineer can slip, even the best can have a rock fall on their head or hand, any hold can crumble for anyone, and SVK can save your life in many ways.
When I follow foreign forums and look at experienced Austrian mountaineers, for example, I see that the vast majority use SVK, even professionals in mountaineering who have climbed hundreds of ferratas. Only here there's some resistance to it, well, not long ago they laughed at helmets on Triglav too.
Regarding Chinese gear: I have an SVK that hasn't been recalled, nor is it Chinese, my partner has another brand and it hasn't been recalled either. Of course that doesn't mean it's 100% safe. If you weigh 120 kg and fall directly "straight down" even a chain will struggle to hold you, or you'll pull the bolt out.
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| Becar11. 05. 2013 |
But how do you know it's Chinese, I'm really interested in that answer too.
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| Becar11. 05. 2013 |
Primoz, if you look closely at the list you're attaching, you can see there are quite a few brands that have no recalled products. So why should I rely on luck?
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| Becar11. 05. 2013 |
Just because one fell and the kit failed doesn't mean all are bad. I think the recall reaction is greatly exaggerated, but if manufacturers have concerns, safety really shouldn't be risked.
Interestingly, some manufacturers have many recalled products, others none??? That says something too.
Finally, one more comparison. If I've driven a million kilometers with the car, meaning I'm relatively experienced driver, will I stop buckling the seatbelt? Will I rely only on my experience or think about external factors, like someone else crashing into me, flying off the road due to an invisible oil spot, or front tire bursting at 130 km/h?
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| Becar11. 05. 2013 |
There are 8 such on this list.
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| Zebdi11. 05. 2013 |
Petzl has had recalls of self-belay kits in the past. Black Diamond hasn't yet, as far as I know
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| AT13. 05. 2013 |
I apologize but I can't pass without stating how piggishly inconsiderate we little Slovenians are, because the guy asks on the forum what is advised and mentions he has a slight fear of heights and immediately all the EXPERIENCED alpinists and mountaineers appear and pontificate how this route is overestimated which is short and can be climbed bp in flip-flops. Shame on you!!!! Personally I climb it without SVK too but always in boots because my ankles remember something. For me it's really possibly pleasure and "snack" but someone who isn't much into verticals DO NOT mislead with your personal climbing experiences and they will surely be safer on their own!!! And nice mountaineering regards
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| rovka11. 06. 2013 |
Today went up the climbing route, extended to Abram, returned past the chapel and old castle to Vipava and by road to the starting point.
Regarding the difficulty of the climbing route, I'd say it's only the extremely compact rock that keeps it from being among the 10 hardest I've done so far. There was almost no scree and consequent falling stones in this section, some only in the part where it joins the easier bypass.
Definitely not suitable for those afraid of heights, with or without safety gear. Best regards.
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| foxy12. 06. 2013 |
on Saturday I took my son up, I belayed him, plus he self-belayed too.... fun trail for learning, as there are plenty of footholds and handholds, but it holds true that you fall only once.... as others have said, a stone can hit you, in the final part even some irresponsible and unclipped hiker can hit you..... in the latter case belaying probably won't help either....
so my opinion is, if you don't belay for yourself, at least do it for those below you who have no business with your ego
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| Bandzo11. 07. 2013 |
Yesterday I was on Gradiška Tura on a very demanding path and was very impressed by the path. It's very good for building up experience.
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| augustus3314. 07. 2013 |
Quite a fun path - short, not too strenuous, but requires some skill. Today it was a bit muggy, better to go there in spring or autumn, maybe even in winter.
Don't go there without boots. I had SVK, of course it works without - but at a few spots I really felt better with it
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| nejka4031. 08. 2013 |
today walked the circular path, up the easier ascent, down the climbing descent, a bit unusual, but that's how it turned out, wonderful experience, very solid rock, plenty of holds, but true that SVK is quite useful at some places, even for the psyche. I wish everyone a nice and safe step
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| katja8715. 12. 2013 |
On Saturday, 14.12.2013 we ascended the climbing path to Gradiška tura.
We made a circular tour: Gradišče - Gradiška tura (Furlanova pot) - Abram - Kapelica - Plaz - Gradišče. The tour took 7 hours, including intermediate breaks.
The day was sunny and we had beautiful views The entire tour was exceptionally beautiful, the path well marked.
The climbing section of the path is quite adrenaline-filled, especially the part along the narrow ridge. I recommend a self-belay kit, since safety is first, and it especially provides inexperienced hikers with a feeling of greater relaxation. Helmet is mandatory
Pictures from the hike can be viewed on the website of Planinsko društvo Matica Murska Sobota: http://www.mojalbum.com/pdmaticams/20131214-gradiska-tura-abram-plaz-gradisce/se-zadnji-pogled-na-stene-plezalisca-in-gradiske-ture/21339359
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| Wine2. 09. 2014 |
On 22.8. did a nice ascent on Furlanova pot. Shame that the ferrata is shorter, but it's beautiful and airy in places. SVK not necessary for old-timers, recommended for beginners. I free-climbed 80% without touching the cable.. in my opinion the route without cable would be II/III.
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| Miran Matičič3. 09. 2014 |
People, don't mess around!!
Furlanka is objectively a very dangerous climbing path and anyone who goes on it without SVK exposes themselves at their own risk, including me.
Protected climbing paths are climbing paths where instead of with a partner, we belay ourselves. That means we CLIMB protected with SVK, not drag ourselves up the cable and artificial holds. That's why we call such people "cable monkeys" and not ferratarists. And whoever drags kids along on this and similar protected paths, as I've seen quite a few times, without them being self-belayed, exposes them due to their own stupidity.
LP
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| VanSims4. 09. 2014 |
Finally someone said something sensible!
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| Wine4. 09. 2014 |
I agree with Miran regarding children. I went up solo, which means I "risked" for my own "fun". I didn't endanger anyone. As for the path's difficulty, it's not so horrific if you have some experience with "gear" 
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| Šuška22. 04. 2015 |
I can't find a description anywhere of the path to the summit of the hill called Plaz. As far as I can see on the map, it's right about halfway along the Gradiška Tura.
Does anyone know more to say about this?
Thanks
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| Šuška22. 04. 2015 |
Many thanks
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| ptica 24. 01. 2016 |
I was on this path to Gradiška Tura years ago. The path is very demanding, especially one section on the ridge where you have to cross from the left to the right side of the ridge, I think I was without SVK, it scared me a lot because the ridge is exposed and airy. It is true that we are slowly advancing with SVK maybe that's why some don't like using it, but I never thought that if a stone hits you, you unclip from the sling. I don't know if I would ever go on this path without using SVK, certainly not. I was also scared on Mangart via the Slovenian route because there SVK doesn't help at some points since you can't attach anywhere. Comparing paths is hard because you have to try them yourself, you have descriptions in the guide 50 secured paths - then decide where to go. For beginners, a good short via ferrata on Smarnogorska Grmada - no exposed ridge there. Maybe it's really good to train on guided courses.
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| valerija11224. 01. 2016 |
Message for all those for whom the very demanding Gradiška Tura causes problems. There is also an easier variant, just as beautiful and scenic. It has a couple of nicely secured sections, just right for the soul.
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| Di_ana_alpine5. 03. 2016 |
For me personally, this Furlanova pot is a great thing. I occasionally go on this "via ferrata" alone when I don't have a climbing partner for serious climbing, it's still better than sitting at home As a predecessor already said, without the wire rope and aids/protections it would be a III degree route or II/III. And the rock is super, solid.. maybe it does resemble Paklenica a bit. It's just the right path for an introduction to the "mountains". The via ferrata set is kind of a must, as is the helmet. It also depends on how we approach this "path". For example, I don't pull myself up the rope and don't step on the pegs, but I clip into the wire (for safety) and then free climb without technical aids. But as I say, it's suitable if there's no partner for more serious mountain climbing pleasure, then this is also great. Beautiful views of the Vipava Valley, nicely exposed at times, in short, a super tour. The easier descent via the scree path is not very much to my liking. The via ferrata set is, as I said, highly recommended. Safety first (if nothing else, ask at least a more experienced mountaineer/alpinist/climber friend to make you a via ferrata setup from an auxiliary rope) I recommend this path, it's really great, but go with someone more experienced if you're a beginner.
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| Di_ana_alpine6. 03. 2016 |
Of course the fall is less dynamic and more dangerous. That's completely logical and clear.. Many via ferrata climbers are not aware that despite the via ferrata set, there's immediately a broken leg or something worse... mainly due to the looseness of the terrain... If you fall on a dynamic rope on some slabby six it's not such a panic (generally speaking). But falling on loose crumbly rock.. it's about that this can also be occasionally a type of enjoyable training for fun. (in my case - no mistake or generalization).. this is my personal preference anyway, sometimes I just feel like doing Furlanova pot freely.... Anyone can end up in the ER quickly. I can tell from my experience, years ago (8 years back) I fell on a III, it was full of loose rocks and mostly crumbly rock, I fell 5 meters, so about 2-3 meters was the last swing (if I remember correctly)... but I landed so weirdly directly on a small loose piece under the swing and the femur was broken... it happens quickly, you have to take that into account... but I completely agree with you primoza
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| darinka46. 03. 2016 |
Very nice, on this ferrata in spring. Lots of flowers, especially iris stands out, and lilies. Usually, I stop at the balcony and admire all that beauty. But I saw blueberries, but on the circular, there where the altar is. Just a pity that the climbing part is so short.
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| jprim8. 03. 2016 |
Something on this topic, maybe you'll add something, even correct it.
For me personally, this path is not a via ferrata, but a very demanding climbing route, at least that's how it's classified in the book 50 Climbing Routes. Via ferratas are something else and climbing of course too. I don't know much about all these differences, but for via ferratas I know that their difficulty increases from A onwards.
Best regards!
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| sebo3069. 03. 2016 |
The principle is the same except that "sport via ferratas" are made on the principle of just a cable and deliberately routed over more difficult terrain. Via ferratas in the mountains usually also have artificial steps where needed and are usually routed along the easiest approach path.
Walking on via ferratas can't really be compared to climbing anyway. Unless of course you use the cable only for belaying.
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| VanSims22. 03. 2016 |
I was there on Saturday and fully agree with @primoza. This IS a via ferrata! Even in Austria it would be nicely called Klettersteig. The fact that it's short doesn't mean anything. Anyway, short via ferrata.
Difficulty: weak C at the beginning then easier towards the balcony. Ridge I'd say good B first half then easier to the end. In short, difficulty just right for a medium-hard via ferrata!
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| jax22. 03. 2016 |
Perfectly said. No need to discuss some intangible difference between secured paths and via ferratas. The fact is that even abroad not all via ferratas are equally difficult and Gradiška Tura is a proper via ferrata. It's not particularly difficult, but that's no necessary characteristic of via ferratas.
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| jprim22. 03. 2016 |
I personally have a different opinion, if Gradiška Tura is a via ferrata, then so are Plemenice, Rinke, Turski žleb ...
But I've studied 50 climbing paths, guide to climbing paths, ...
Klettersteig means climbing path, which you probably won't dispute
LP!
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| biba23. 03. 2016 |
So what does (via) ferrata mean then?
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| VanSims23. 03. 2016 |
I think it's about the percentage of demanding climbing that is secured. On Gradiška it's high: 80, 90%, I don't know exactly.
And say how much walking in between and such. If there's a lot of walking and occasionally a cable, that's not a via ferrata of course. There are borderline cases of course.
I can't assess Plemenice because I haven't been yet, but they say there's little secured climbing up there. There's some free climbing on every proper via ferrata anyway. If nothing else, a chicane at the start to scare off poorly prepared or casual hikers. Gradiška with a couple of three meters at the start is no exception.
Turski žleb and Rinke already have a higher percentage, there we could perhaps debate. Still, they are considered more as secured paths than via ferratas.
Duden for Steig says: narrow, steep path; mountain path. Klettersteig is used practically exclusively for via ferratas. For unsecured climbing path it's Kletterweg, Kletterroute,... Word compounds in German can sometimes mean something completely different from the word used in them
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| ms_primoz25. 03. 2016 |
the word "zajlar" is used only by those who think they're something special. Now we've come so far that you can be offensive to someone using the chain for assistance, as that's why it's attached in that spot. What kind... hehe
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| tempodovrha25. 03. 2016 |
does anyone know which vias ferratas are the hardest in Slovenia and if there are also E variants?
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| andrej7825. 03. 2016 |
Plot above Zelenica and via ferrata to Češka koča...
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| tempodovrha26. 03. 2016 |
Thanks, hill experts. I thought there were more difficult ones. This Gonžarjeva peč seems a bit more demanding, the other two mentioned I would rate as C on the Austrian scale.
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| jprim27. 03. 2016 |
@ VanSims
Then I've already climbed a lot of via ferratas, and I don't even know myself,...
According to your explanation, the path to Stol from the Austrian side is also a via ferrata, I say it isn't, except the first few meters are more demanding.
As for Plamenice, they are classified among very difficult climbing routes.
http://www.hribi.net/slika.asp?razmerekomentar=72118
Everyone has their own opinion, whether it's correct depends on various experts who deal with this activity more precisely, for me the fragrant book 50-climbing routes is still the best.
Since there are many via ferratas in the Dolomites, we can also use that explanation where maps have ladders drawn, some are colored red others not. That's what my little self would add to this topic. The first via ferrata here is of course Gonžarjeva.
Regards!
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| VanSims27. 03. 2016 |
The via ferrata on Stol is even more of a via ferrata than e.g. Rinke or Turski žleb. Even the Austrians call it Hochstuhl Klettersteig. Pretty much every one of those 'various experts' would agree on that.
Gonžarjeva? First by what criteria? Because it's so difficult? Why not then the approximately equally long Gradiška? Just because it's easier?
There are easy, medium, difficult and extreme via ferratas.
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| jprim27. 03. 2016 |
... klettern - to climb
... steigen - to ascend
And then I understand it as a climbing route.
Stol is classified in the book as a difficult climbing route, Plemenice as very difficult, I want to say that Stol is much easier.
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| VanSims27. 03. 2016 |
Of course it's a climbing route, but since most of the climbing part is secured with iron, it's a via ferrata. There's as much free climbing here as on almost every via ferrata, even Dolomite ones that you hold as examples.
As I mentioned, the term Klettersteig is used almost exclusively for via ferratas in German-speaking areas.
Anyway, difficulty as said is not important. As much as I've read about Plemenice, it would be hard to say it's a via ferrata.
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| cotro416. 06. 2016 |
Was today for the first time on this ferrata or secured path however you call it, I don't mind. I didn't clip in, had harness and sling ready just in case. It's not quite innocent on some parts, a bit exposed so SVK isn't superfluous for those who are or were in doubt. But if you think you don't need it then don't. So far I've done Plemenice, Hanzova to Mojstrovka, Slovenska to Mangart, Tofana in the Dolomites, Tominškova mostly without protection, I'm not some hard climber climbed a bit sometimes but little .. so let everyone study on site how demanding the path is .. lp
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| cotro416. 06. 2016 |
Lots of comparisons to Plemenice: the first 15 min after the screes are really exposed—if you slip you're gone or land in Zadnjica, but it can be climbed without safety gear too, I used it because I like myself that much. Then basically an hour and a half of easier scrambles and switchbacks, nothing special. Then two or three longer chimneys with mostly pegs follow and no panic. To me it seems more conditioning and strenuous, at least it was for me, some self-confidence is needed as always.
Some video content
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| Iztok Možina11. 11. 2016 |
Hello,
For some time I've been trying to switch to the description of the easier path, but it returns me to the main page; I found it in Croatian though.
Have a nice day
IztokMožina
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| Clovek130. 06. 2017 |
Hi! Is there a path to return to the starting point after completing the via ferrata?
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| benja815130. 06. 2017 |
Yes, right after the end of the ferrata (about 30 min below the summit of Gradiška Tura) an easier path branches off to the right downhill (just a few easier cables).
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| Clovek11. 07. 2017 |
Thank you very much
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| pykos24. 08. 2017 |
Yesterday my girlfriend and I did this tour to see if such trails suit us... Both liked the climbing part very much, but as some say, it's a shame it's so short ... I think it's quite suitable for the first ascent on via ferratas. Use of via ferrata set and helmet is in my opinion necessary... Next week train a bit more
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| pykos24. 08. 2017 |
Oh, and one more thing, we don't descend down the path that leads along the ferrata, there is in my opinion an easier path if we head towards Plaz. Right after the summit, a smaller unmarked path branches off on the right side, which leads to the starting point, but at the end there is a short scree...
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| Slash1324. 08. 2017 |
Yes, that one is easier and passes quickly. That scree shouldn't cause major problems either.
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| janez777726. 05. 2019 |
Yesterday I was at the opening of the new climbing route on Gradiška Tura. The new Otmarjeva ferrata is named after the local legend, the late parish priest Otmar Črnilogar, who 50 years ago opened the first Furlanova ferrata, built precisely at his initiative.
The new ferrata is 240 m long, has 400m elevation gain, together with the old Furlanova ferrata they have 380m height, which with additional 60-70 meters of approach means a round 450m elevation gain. That's almost half of the north Triglav wall!
The new ferrata is not difficult, somewhat overhanging in places, climbable in half an hour, officially in one, together with Furlanova in two. Exceptional view of the upper Vipava valley, this is a useful climbing route all year round, very good training for high mountains. Belaying is not necessary, but recommended.
Congratulations to the local mountaineering association PD Vipava!
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| dprapr26. 05. 2019 |
Almost half of the north Triglav wall?
First time I hear it's 235m x 2.
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| janez777727. 05. 2019 |
The Triglav north face is high 1005m, Gradiška Tura however total 450m.
Well, they teach maths in first grade..
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| darinka427. 05. 2019 |
If we disregard maths, I'd say the first part of the new Otmar climbing path is quite demanding. Yesterday they helped one female hiker over that difficult overhang with a rope because she couldn't do it alone. Since there were quite a few people on the wall, all those below her had to wait in whatever positions they were in. I think their arms suffered.
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| dprapr27. 05. 2019 |
In higher grades they also learn about height and length.
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| binep24. 11. 2019 |
The path is closed due to works.
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| NaravaJeZakon25. 11. 2019 |
Was there today.. Via ferrata open. They only changed the path past the wooden balcony. Slightly more attractive access with the aid of stirrups and pegs.
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| AAvrikelj29. 11. 2019 |
Furlanova pot is even safer after the renovation. Thanks to everyone who worked on it in the past days.
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| motionaction1. 07. 2022 22:06:02 |
Today I climbed the Furlanova pot. Very well maintained, I went early in the morning so the path was nicely shaded. I met no one except some chamois. The path is suitable for those entering the world of slightly more difficult vias ferratas, but careful steps and proper equipment are still needed. The upper part is quite exposed, and the rock is polished in places from frequent traffic.
I recommend the path, beautiful, but as always - wisely!
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| MinasTirith16. 05. 2023 10:44:01 |
I was on the mentioned via ferrata on 16.5.2023. The path is well maintained, without peculiarities or dangers.
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| maks5730. 10. 2024 07:18:27 |
Could you please provide information? Is the Furlanova via ferrata normally open? Can I visit it next week?
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| mirank30. 10. 2024 08:03:07 |
In the notice on hribi.net sometime in August, it clearly states that there is a closure on the normal route connecting the start of Furlanova and Otmarjeva. From the attached map, it is evident that both vias ferratas are accessible and passable, you just have to choose a different descent. If you're still not sure, call the Tura center, they definitely know if anything has changed.
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| maks5730. 10. 2024 08:31:51 |
Thank you very much for the reply. I will definitely call the Tura center as well.
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