Franz-Josefs-Hohe - Großglockner (via Pasterze Glacier and Hofmannskees)

Access to starting point:
Through the Karawanks Tunnel, we drive past Spittal towards Lienz, but only to the place Molbrucke. Further, we follow the signs for the alpine road to Grossglockner. When we get to the mountain village Heiligenblut (holy blood) 1336 m high, we have only 17 more km of Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse, the most famous alpine panoramic road. The toll for this road is 26 euros per car (except at night until 5 a.m.). The road is open from May to October or depending on snow conditions.
More information at: http://www.grossglockner.at/en/hochalpenstrasse

Route description:
We park in garages by the edge of the glacier Pastirica/Pasterze on the most beautiful vantage point Franz-Josefs-Höhe 2369 m high, from where we can see our path all the way to Kleine Grossglockner. If we come there at night or the day before, it is good to have a sleeping bag and armaflex with us, because it is possible to sleep somehow in the garages. On the glacier Pastirica/Pasterze runs the rack railway Grossglockner Gletscherbahn since 1963. From the altitude of 2356 m it runs along a 212 m long track 144 m lower to the edge of the glacier.
Our ascent starts directly from the garages through one of five tunnels towards the hut Hofmannhütte 2444 m high. The tunnels were built because the old path-road was swept away by a landslide in several places and the path was closed for several years. The path through the tunnels is really fun. It reminds one of Gardaland. When we are through the last tunnel, we soon spot the hut Hofmannhütte to the left, past which our path runs. The hut is in bad condition and therefore has been closed and occupied by marmots for many years. Past the hut, we descend approximately 200 m lower to the glacier Pastirica/Pasterze. We cross the glacier at right angles to the slope down which we descended onto it. During the crossing, it is necessary to watch for crevasses in the glacier, as they can be quite wide and of unknown depth. The glacier is up to 160 m thick. In case of fog, orientation on the glacier is very difficult. If on the other side we do not see colored markings on the rocks or marked poles, we go first a little downward, because during the crossing we usually go a little to the right. If after 100 meters there are no markings, we repeat this upward and we will certainly find the markings. The path then ascends steeply along the ridge all the way to the spot named Fruhstuchsplatz, where we turn from the ridge a few steps left downward. Here starts a long ascent across the glacier Hofmannskees all the way to the hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (Adlersruhe - eagle's rest) at 3454 m. The lower part of the path goes left, the upper one upward and right to the hut. To the right we can go: 1. on the glacier below the intermediate rocky ridge. Caution is needed due to crevasses; 2. we continue on the glacier upward all the way to the edge on the upper ridge, where the path from the hut Salmhütte on the south side joins ours. We continue right on the glacier. Soon we have to cross the rocky intermediate ridge. Then the paths join and the hut is already within reach. Orientation on the glacier Hofmannskees in good weather is easy, in fog very difficult or impossible.
From the hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (the hut is open from May to the end of September) we continue on the snowfield immediately behind the hut. On the steep snowfield we ascend to Sattele (saddle) 3680 m high, where the snowfield ends. Further in the summer months there is usually not much snow, so this part of the ascent is more on rock than on snow. First, we ascend on the steep exposed ridge to Kleine Grossglockner 3783 m high and descend over it a little lower to the very narrow notch Glockner-scharte. There is space for passage only for one person, so longer delays occur several times at this spot. There follows only approximately 50 m of steep ascent over Steile Platten to the summit of Grossglockner. For the conquered summit we are rewarded with a view of the French and Swiss Alps, Italian Dolomites, Julian Alps and High Tauern.
Fixed protections over Kleine Grossglockner and to the summit are steel rods and pitons with rings, so with the right equipment there are no problems with belaying. We also need equipment for walking roped up. The ascent requires considerable mountaineering knowledge and experience. If we lack these, it is wisest to conquer the summit with a guide or experienced alpinist.
We descend along the ascent route. When we descend to the glacier Pastirica/Pasterze, we can go directly down the glacier to the lower station of the rack railway, take it to the garages or climb back on foot.

Along the route: Koča Hofmannshütte (2444m), Koča Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (3454m), Kleine Grossglockner (3783m)

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