Ciampac - Colac (Ferrata dei Finanzieri)
Starting point: Ciampac (2142 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,4575°N 11,7881°E |
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Route name: Ferrata dei Finanzieri
Walking time: 2 h 50 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Via ferrata: C
Elevation gain: 573 m
Elevation difference along the route: 650 m
Map: Tabacco 07 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 4.945
 | 3 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
A) From Kranjska Gora over Korensko sedlo into Austria, where at the first major intersection we continue left towards Podklošter / Arnoldstein and Trbiž / Tarvisio. At the end of the settlement Podklošter signs for Šmohor / Hermagor point us right onto a regional road, along which past the mentioned settlement we drive to the end of the Gailtal valley, or more precisely to the settlement Kötschach-Mauthen, where we turn right towards the settlement Oberdrauburg. The route ahead leads us over the Alpine pass Gailbergsattel (982 m), after which we descend into the mentioned settlement. After crossing the bridge over the Drava River, we continue left towards the settlement Lienz. In the main roundabout in Lienz we continue "left" in the direction of the settlement Sillian and Italy. Further on, we cross the border between Austria and Italy, and we follow the main road to the settlement Dobbiaco / Toblach, where we turn left towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. When we arrive in Cortina d'Ampezzo, we follow the signs for the Alpine pass Passo Falzarego. At Passo Falzarego (2105 m) there is an intersection, where we continue straight downhill in the direction of Marmolada and Passo Fedaia pass. At the next intersections, we follow the road in the direction of Marmolada and the mentioned pass. After Passo Fedaia (2057 m), which is located by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts descending again, and we follow it to the beginning of the settlement Alba, where on the left side we will notice the Ciampac cable car. We park on the large parking lot by the lower station of the mentioned cable car. Then we buy a ticket and take the cable car to the upper station of the Ciampac cable car. From Kranjska Gora to the starting point is approximately 280 km.
B) From Kranjska Gora via the Rateče border crossing to Trbiž / Tarvisio and further along the highway towards Videm / Udine. We leave the highway at Tolmezzo, from where we continue driving towards the settlement Ampezzo and further towards the Alpine pass Passo della Mauria (1298 m). The road then starts descending and takes us into the Cadore valley, where we continue right towards the settlement Auronzo di Cadore. At the next intersections, we follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo. When we arrive in Cortina d'Ampezzo, we follow the signs for the Alpine pass Passo Falzarego. At Passo Falzarego (2105 m) there is an intersection, where we continue straight downhill in the direction of Marmolada and Passo Fedaia pass. At the next intersections, we follow the road in the direction of Marmolada and the mentioned pass. After Passo Fedaia (2057 m), which is located by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts descending again, and we follow it to the beginning of the settlement Alba, where on the left side we will notice the Ciampac cable car. We park on the large parking lot by the lower station of the mentioned cable car. Then we buy a ticket and take the cable car to the upper station of the Ciampac cable car. From Kranjska Gora to the starting point is approximately 270 km.
C) From Nova Gorica we drive into Italy and continue along the highway to the settlement Portogruaro, where at the highway fork we turn towards Belluno. We follow the highway to the exit for Belluno, and after the settlement Belluno we follow the road towards the settlement Agordo and then Marmolada and the Alpine pass Passo Fedaia. After Passo Fedaia (2057 m), which is located by the artificial lake Lagho di Fedaia, the road starts descending, and we follow it to the beginning of the settlement Alba, where on the left side we will notice the Ciampac cable car. We park on the large parking lot by the lower station of the mentioned cable car. Then we buy a ticket and take the cable car to the upper station of the Ciampac cable car. From the border with Slovenia to the starting point is approximately 245 km.
Route description:
From the upper station of the cable car we continue a few tens of meters along the road, which brings us to the signposts. At the signposts we turn left following the signs for »Ferrata dei Finanzieri«. We then descend slightly for some time along the macadam road, which brings us to another junction. This time the signposts direct us right, followed by a short descent and then a crossing of grassy slopes that brings us below the slopes of Mount Colac.
We continue slightly left and begin to ascend the scree, which brings us to the start of the climbing section.
In the initial part we ascend alongside the steel cable upwards, then for a short time there follows a somewhat easier unsecured section of the path. There follows a traverse alongside the steel cable to the left and then a steep ascent up the gully to the left upwards. Further on the path ascends quite steeply up the rocky slope, and we are aided by several rungs. This brings us to a slightly overhanging step, over which numerous rungs assist us. Higher up the path ascends steeply all the way, and at a few points some arm strength is also required. The relatively long ascent up the steep northern slopes of the mountain brings us to the ridge from which a beautiful view opens towards Marmolada. We continue right and the slightly less steep path soon brings us to the summit.
The Ferrata dei Finanzieri climbing route is among the most difficult routes in the Dolomites and is suitable only for experienced mountaineers with mandatory self-belaying.
We descend via a somewhat easier path that runs along the southern slopes of the mountain. At the junction somewhat lower we can continue right towards the upper cable car station or left towards the parking lot at the lower cable car station.

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Discussion about the trip Ciampac - Colac (Ferrata dei Finanzieri)
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| tagec3. 09. 2015 |
Wednesday started cloudy, the forecast wasn't the best, but since it was our last day in the Dolomites, we used it for the nearby peak Colac. We took the gondola to Ciampac, it was foggy, but it didn't look like rain. Ferrata Finanzieri is very nicely routed through natural passages, very well secured and it didn't seem difficult to us at all. A hiker from Germany joined us, who didn't want to do the ferrata alone because of the weather, and so we did the whole tour together. The descent goes on the other side to the SW towards Marmolada, we went down quickly, so we outran the rain that caught us just before the gondola. If we hadn't been quick (3 hours full loop), it would have been quite unpleasant in the wall!! But we were the only ones in the ferrata, which is supposed to be very popular
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