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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Boschitzberg / Železna Kapla / Bad Eisenkappel - Boschitzberg (Türkenkopf Klettersteig)

Železna Kapla / Bad Eisenkappel - Boschitzberg (Türkenkopf Klettersteig)

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Starting point: Železna Kapla / Bad Eisenkappel (555 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4967°N 14,5831°E
Route name: Türkenkopf Klettersteig
Walking time: 3 h 30 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Via ferrata: D/E
Elevation gain: 673 m
Elevation difference along the route: 675 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Author: Griha
Views: 54.601
 4 people like this post
Number of photos: 76
Number of comments: 84
Access to starting point:
Over the border crossing Jezersko or over Pavličevo saddle, we continue driving to the end of the settlement Železna Kapla / Eisenkappel, where we park at the abandoned joinery workshop on the left bank of the river Bela. Above the parking lot, a fortification (Turkish guardhouse) with a flag can be seen.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we head in the direction of the river along the joinery workshop, where we spot steel cables and pegs.
The initial traverse (C) soon ascends vertically (C/D), with progress aided only by the steel cable and the occasional peg. The wall is continuously vertical. A long traverse (C) to the left follows, taking us from the vertical into a pleasant grove where we can rest. Immediately, the next demanding section begins, bringing us to a short, slightly overhanging rib (C/D), followed by a vertical pitch (C) directed slightly to the left, ending in the grove. Here we are at about halfway along the climbing route. Ahead lies the most difficult section, starting with a vertical pillar (C), after which the hardest spot begins. In the pronounced overhang (D/E), we climb leftward and upward, aided by a few sparingly placed pegs (quite far apart – a challenge for shorter mountaineers). Here, most of the weight is on the arms, and for those with less strength or climbing technique, this section can be impassable. Extremely demanding, especially, is clipping the carabiners of the via ferrata set while holding the steel cable with one hand. The route turns right, and the difficulty does not ease until the end of the traverse to the right. The use of a short rope or sling for a possible rest in the middle of the hardest part is highly recommended, as progressing through the most difficult part without a break is possible only for very strong climbers. The worst is behind us; only a few shorter moderately difficult spots (C) in well-featured rock follow, after which the path traverses forested slopes and soon the steel cables end too. It takes a good two hours of ascent to here (end of the climbing route). From here, we can continue to Božičev vrh (following the Austrian markers uphill to the right) or descend to the starting point.
Detailed topo map description can be found at http://bergsteigen.at/pic/pdf/2140_Topo_80d228b2-3713-4335-b373-bb8bb658dfba_tuerkenkopf.pdf
route map - Boschitzberg
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Železna Kapla / Bad Eisenkappel - Boschitzberg (Türkenkopf Klettersteig)
Show older messages
geppo1. 09. 2011
For climbing shoes good to have cloth or rag to wipe soles smeared with dirt several times on the way.
Keko9. 09. 2011
I see that a debate has flared up about these extreme vias ferratas and since a similar, but shorter, one was also opened in Slovenia (Vinska gora - Gonžarjeva peč) I'm interested in a difficulty comparison. Let me remind you that Gonžarjevka already claimed its blood toll shortly after opening. I tried it myself and can say that it really is just pulling along the cable.
geppo9. 09. 2011
I often read that vias ferratas are just "pulling" along the cables.
At difficulty E that's true (my personal opinion). At D you can climb nicely if you know how to use what the terrain offers.
When I repeated Železna at the end of May 2011 and arrived there with much greater knowledge and experience, I climbed it with pleasure. Without fatigue in my arms and if it were higher (this one is about 290m) I wouldn't have any problems.
I used my legs more, didn't rush (time was as stated needed for this via ferrata.
In short, big progress from when I went first in 2010 and dragged myself completely exhausted to the top...
LP
geppo9. 09. 2011
Keko - I forgot to answer your questionzmeden
Gonžarica is harder than Železna, although shorter. On the hardest part of Železna they later additionally mounted one peg, which significantly eases that overhang. Gonžarica has nothing. So you really have to use muscle power to get through the hardest part (but it's short). Those who have climbed Gonžarica several times can calmly go climbing Železna.
Regards
Keko9. 09. 2011
Geppo thanks for the reply. If time allows, my wife and I will try it this year.
Keko25. 09. 2011
Yesterday my wife and I, I won't say we climbed over, but somehow dragged ourselves over all the obstacles and hurdles you encounter on this path. The via ferrata seems to me definitely interestingly laid out, it constantly goes to the left so it's quite safe from falling rocks that ferrata climbers ahead of us might trigger. If a person distributes strength evenly, it doesn't seem too difficult to me, as after finishing the tour my wife and I concluded that we could have continued for quite some time if the via ferrata were longer. Since I see that quite a few forum members oppose such via ferratas in Slovenia, I find it interesting mainly that of the four parked cars at that time, three had Slovenian license plates. So there is definitely interest, and suitable terrain is not lacking here either. I think it wouldn't be bad if we also built another similar via ferrata here, which would be somewhat longer than Gonžarica.
neph25. 09. 2011
Interest certainly exists, even the school via ferrata in Lavamünd is very well visited by Slovenians. I support the construction of such paths mainly or only in lower-lying areas. In my opinion, they don't belong in the mountains. But there is certainly space for such "objects" here too!
jurakjernej18. 10. 2011
hello
today I climbed this via ferrata for the first time, it's very thrilling and suitable for all adrenaline seekers.jezik
šerpa22. 05. 2012
On Sunday I climbed this ferrata (and I hope no one hangs on the word "climb" again, as it makes no sense to discuss who has primacy in using that word). Hard to rate the real difficulty, as it largely depends on subjective circumstances, but it's definitely beautiful, boldly routed and balm for the soul of a true ferrata climber. I'll definitely return there. And maybe it really wouldn't hurt to build another one in Slovenia, because on Sunday we were all Slovenians up there.
alzu21. 09. 2012
Zmagova! Nice tour. Short but punchy!
robter21. 09. 2012
alzu: geppo's comment 9.9.2011 gives me hope that next year we won't be so drained; meanwhile, whimper
pinny2. 10. 2012
But this looks crazy good. Maybe someone needs a companion to go up here, because it pulls me too, but I wouldn't go alone like this? nasmeh Otherwise I'm rather new to this, climbed Gonžarjeva peč 7x, and it's somehow already too routine for me velik nasmeh
peterr7. 10. 2012
Despite a cold, yesterday's nice weather tempted me in the afternoon and I quickly decided to go check out the via ferrata in Türkenkopf in Železna Kapla again. Despite plenty of cars in the parking lot, there was no crowd (a larger group of Maribor residents was earlier). In the wall I also got some warm sun rays. But since we Gorenjci are known as thrifty people, I decided to make use of the nice weather and repeat the exercise, so I quickly set off once more. In a little less than three hours I finished and drove back to Gorenjska satisfied.
Kita24. 03. 2013
Gonžar's is never boring so I'd climb it 20x because via ferrata climbing is the only real training for a ferratist, Gonžar's path is an excellent training ground...
pinny13. 04. 2013
I think I'm going today after a long time to climb Gonžarc nasmeh.

Has anyone been to Božičev vrh this year? Is it safe to climb at all yet? .... snow melted, terrain dry or still all wet?
klemen12514. 04. 2013
Pinny, how is the condition on the climbing path?
oybl15. 04. 2013
I was on this trail on April 8th, and there were no problems.
redbull16. 04. 2013
and how much time did you spend on this ferrata?

lp
Branee16. 04. 2013
approx 1 hour
oybl17. 04. 2013
Approximately one and a half hours to the summit
pinny23. 04. 2013
Exactly an hour and a half to the top, do you return back via ferrata, or some path?

klemen125 .... Gonžarca is tip top, just like last year when I was there last, so everything is worth it, bp nasmeh. These days I'll go around a bit again nasmeh
Keko23. 04. 2013
The trail is circular. You return back on an easier path, which is accompanied by the steel cable for a while, the last part of the path is however walkable.
kitina9. 06. 2013
Yesterday I also climbed this via ferrata for the first time! Nice but difficult! Regards.
Kita24. 06. 2013
You only feel the real difficulty D/E when in that overhang to the left you let go of all the pegs; using the pegs it's pure D...velik nasmeh
Marco-Slo31. 08. 2013
Today I quickly tried this via ferrata.
From tomorrow onwards, access to the parking lot will be blocked. Someone was at the carpentry workshop and at the bridge making a wooden ramp. At the end when I was leaving, he also said that from tomorrow there will be no more parking.
slavi090231. 08. 2013
and where will we be able to park if we want to go to this via ferrata
Misantrof31. 08. 2013
What kind of question is that? We'll just have to drive further into Železna Kapla and park in a suitable place...
slavi09021. 09. 2013
I assumed it would be something like thatjezik
Sopke4. 10. 2013
To me this seems more like an athletic track than a secured climbing path mežikanje
nasmeh
pinny26. 03. 2014
Has anyone climbed in Železna Kapla this year? nasmeh
Bojan_A30. 04. 2014
Today my colleague and I were on this via ferrata.

REPORT: http://bojanambrozic.wordpress.com/2014/04/30/ferata-v-zelezni-kapli/

The path is well secured and without peculiarities.
kitina4. 05. 2014
Today I also climbed the ferrata. At
the carpentry workshop you can park again! Regards
jan123427. 06. 2014
Yeah, which path do you take back to the starting point nasmeh
geppo27. 06. 2014
You descend to the starting point on a path that is secured in some sections. It is easy to follow and there are no difficulties.
lp
jan12345. 07. 2014
Well, this is marked 3 hours up and back, right? Or is it more?
geppo5. 07. 2014
Ascent and descent 2 to 3 hours total.
Regards
marko77713. 06. 2017
I was on Saturday for the first time in the Ž.kapla via ferrata.
Despite 200 photos, I spent almost 2h for ascent and descent.
I liked the via ferrata, I really enjoyed it!!!!
I'll come again for sure!!!!!!nasmeh
marko77713. 06. 2017
I was on Saturday for the first time in the Ž.kapla via ferrata.
Despite 200 photos, I spent almost 2h for ascent and descent.
I liked the via ferrata, I really enjoyed it!!!!
I'll come again for sure!!!!!!nasmeh
anze r29. 05. 2019
And does the rock in the ferrata dry quickly?
VanSims25. 06. 2019
What did the late Igor Zlodej say? Giving up in time is the greatest victory! I stuck to that yesterday. Got to (and through) the first overhang (C/D) with pegs. Then saw it wouldn't go.

Yes, yes I would have reached that D/E overhang, no worries, but through it I don't know if I would. Maybe otherwise yes but maybe not sufficiently. And if I stopped there it would be very hard to get back down. No traffic anyway.

Reasons: heat, two ferratas the previous day and assembling a new trainer the day before where hands diligently tightened a bunch of screws. nasmeh Need to repeat it in autumn with fresh energy.

Can park at that workshop. There was even someone there who helped me as he was leaving. nasmeh So obviously no problem.
VanSims28. 07. 2019
In the mountains, usually the second time goes willingly and so it was this time. Despite the heat and threatening afternoon thunderstorms, the parking lot was full even at noon when I was already returning.

What can I say? Absolutely the hardest I've climbed so far. Constant steepness, which except at two or three places doesn't drop below C, of course requires strength, on which it's very hard to save with some free climbing, especially since you hold the chain with one hand and try free with the other. Rest every now and then, even before the hardest part, even if not tired yet (if we are, it's bad for us up there mrk pogled ), comes in handy there.

The famous detail appeared in front of me like from the sky! eek nasmeh I thought there would still be quite a bit to it. Well, I agree with all who say it's not D/E. True, maybe barely D. D/E on say Lisci is at least harder from the start. But this one is longer of course and still takes some strength. And when you reach the B/C traverse above it and think the worst is over, a bit higher surprises another, albeit very short detail (in my opinion D), where you really have to pull and which is not mentioned anywhere.

The main problem here is thus the constant difficulty and less that hardest part everyone fears. That's the key thing to know (saving strength, resting, rest stop mandatory except for Hercules).
don kihott29. 07. 2019
That 3-meter jump (D) on Lisca is not comparable at all to this overhanging traverse D/E in Železna Kapla, already due to the length and exposure alone, and it's good that there are so many pegs in the traverse in Ž. Kapla otherwise it would be a quite demanding (E) passage...mežikanje
dprapr29. 07. 2019
"...especially since you hold the chain with one hand, and with the other you try a bit freely."nasmeh
don kihott29. 07. 2019
This statement is already (BOB) years old... Well, what would people do without imagination...mežikanje
MiAn29. 07. 2019
Why imagination, when it's visible in the profile picture..velik nasmeh
m3pisnik12. 06. 2020
I'm wondering if this overhang at Železna Kapla can be compared to the overhang from the last window towards the notch from Prisojnik?
janezs7313. 06. 2020
Absolutely not. No section on Slovenian secured hiking and secured climbing paths (except the right Zelenica, which is anyway like from another planet for Slovenian conditions) is comparable to this section in Železna Kapla. And not just this section, above it there's another twisted part.

I DO NOT agree with VanSims that this is not D/E. The hardest detail of this passage is pure D/E. (Although the first few meters are D due to the pegs)
Let me repeat what I've written several times: based on one's own feeling (usually of well-climbed and trained individuals) it is very dangerous for others to lower the ratings. Don't do that, because those who have no sense of what's involved will get stuck there and can't go anywhere.

In winter, from the upper part (above this famous overhanging traverse) I literally pulled two Austrians out for a similar reason.
Tal2. 05. 2021 14:27:32
How would you compare the via ferrata with Jerman, which is supposed to be E at one spot? I've noticed that similar ratings for vias ferratas abroad are considerably harder than ours.
don kihott3. 05. 2021 14:52:32
Jermanca is much shorter and much easier...Due to the huge number of pegs (on which two normal people can stand at once) I'm of the opinion that the most demanding sections on Jermanca, where the pegs are a bit further apart, reach nothing special (D?)...We feel the (E) rating on Jermanca only if we don't step on any peg during the ascent..
don kihott3. 05. 2021 15:23:10
Jermanca is much shorter and much easier...Due to the huge number of pegs (on which two normal people can stand at once) I'm of the opinion that the most demanding sections on Jermanca, where the pegs are a bit further apart, reach nothing special (D?)...The (E) rating is made up...Similar ratings abroad are actually much more demanding on most vias ferratas than ours, exceptions are only Zelenica (E) and Gonžarjeva peč (D/E), which are rare exceptions with realistic ratings here...
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