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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Pihavec / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Pihavec (via Sovatna)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Pihavec (via Sovatna)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Destination: Pihavec (2419 m)
Route name: via Sovatna
Walking time: 5 h 15 min
Difficulty: difficult marked way
Elevation gain: 1432 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1460 m
Map: TNP 1 : 50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 25.177
 2 people like this post
Number of photos: 65
Number of comments: 28
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for Vrata Valley. We continue along the toll road, which is closed to public traffic in winter, up to the large parking lot located a few minutes before Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Route description:
The described route has been CLOSED again since 30.7.2016, as the rockfall is active again.
From the large parking lot in Vrata Valley, continue along the gravel road, reaching Aljažev dom v Vratih in a few minutes of walking.
From the hut, continue straight towards Triglav, Stenar and Kriške pode (right Škrlatica) and proceed along the wide tourist path. The path ahead barely ascends through a belt of forest, where we bypass the winter bivouac on the right side, then the forest thins out and after a few more minutes of walking we reach a large wedge (monument dedicated to fallen partisan mountaineers). From the monument, continue straight (left Tominškova pot) along the path that gradually returns to the forest and brings us somewhat higher to a marked junction, where we continue right towards Pogačnikov dom (straight Triglav and Luknja). From the junction onwards, the path begins to ascend more steeply through beech forest (the area is called Bukovlje), which brings us just above 1300 m.a.s.l. to a pleasant spring, which dries up in dry periods. A few more minutes of walking through the forest or higher shrubbery follow, and the path takes us out of the forest at the foot of Sovatna, where a quite overgrown path from Bivak pod Luknjo joins us.
From here onwards, the path becomes increasingly steep and scenic. The path, from which we have beautiful views of the Triglav north face, takes us higher to a short slightly exposed passage, where extra caution is needed especially when wet. The path ahead flattens slightly but continues to ascend relatively steeply. An ascent through scree follows, then the valley narrows and the path takes us to a short rocky jump over which we ascend with the aid of fixed protection.
Above the jump, the slope flattens, and the path ahead leads us across a series of small valleys, where we often spot a herd of chamois. Higher up, the path crosses to the left side of the valley, then transversely ascends across a wide and on a short section slightly exposed ledge. From there, a few dozen more steps of walking follow, and the path brings us to a marked junction at Dovška vrata.
Continue straight towards Pogačnikov dom (left Bovški Gamsovec, right Stenar and Križ). The path ahead begins to descend gradually through increasingly beautiful high mountain terrain. In a slight right bend, we will notice cairns on the left side of the path. Here, an unmarked path branches left, crossing the scree under Bovški Gamsovec, then rejoins the marked path to Pihavec. We continue along the marked path, which continues to descend gently and then brings us to a marked junction. We head left towards Pihavec, the right path continues towards Pogačnikov dom.
After a short ascent, an unmarked path from Dovška vrata joins us from the left. Here the path turns right and first crosses scree, then the path turns slightly left and begins to ascend towards the Čez Kamen saddle. The path through the scree then takes us to a rocky jump, which is also the only difficult section on this part of the path. Here the path ascends vertically via pegs. Helmet use is mandatory as there is a lot of loose rock above the pegs on the path. After climbing the rocky jump with the aid of pegs, a relatively short ascent along a chain follows. Here be very careful not to dislodge rocks. A short ascent to the Čez Kamen saddle (2331 m) follows.
At the saddle, the path turns right and then runs along the south side of Pihavec towards the west. At the end, the path turns slightly right again and a short easy ascent to the summit follows.
Starting point - Aljažev dom 0:05, Aljažev dom - spring in Bukovlje 1:25, spring in Bukovlje - Dovška vrata 2:30, Dovška vrata - Pihavec 1:15.
route map - Pihavec
Along the route: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1001m), Spomenik padlim partizanom gornikom (1020m), V Plazičih (1040m), Izvir v Bukovlju (1317m), Bukovlje (1418m), Dovška vrata (2176m), Čez Kamen (2331m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Pihavec (via Sovatna)
zigc.10. 10. 2008
Has anyone been up there recently? Is winter gear needed?
ziga_b10. 10. 2008
I'll go up tomorrow morning so... you'll know tomorrow nasmeh
zigc.10. 10. 2008
okaynasmeh....thanks in advance for the infovelik nasmeh
ziga_b11. 10. 2008
Here we are on top of this Pihavec... the path started early in the morning and over Sovatno we fairly flew... snow only a sample... when descending we hit slippery rocks and some snow patches... as usual for us we missed the path but soon we were back on the right one... followed the ascent over scree to the climbing part... to pass without crampons etc. now there are our footprints... we climbed the section with fixed protection where there's also lots of snow... spotted Triglav a few steps more and we're on top... descended to Luknja but didn't find the ridge so we more or less planned the path ourselves... everything ended happily... anyway it was great... whoever has time and will let him go up... for equipment take as written... if someone is a real crampon lover let him take crampons for the scree which to me seems unnecessary weight for now velik nasmeh anyway best day for the mountains, weather perfect, no one on top... indescribable... check conditions yourselves... enjoy mežikanje
zigc.11. 10. 2008
OK Ziga thanks for this unique info... I think I'll try this tour tomorrow or most likely on Mondayvelik nasmeh
Best regards Ziga
grahlck3. 11. 2008
Can someone tell me what the path from Kriških podov to Pihavec is like?
Tadej3. 11. 2008
In the upper part it is the same as in this description. You can read more here
grahlck4. 11. 2008
Thanks.
ruševec4. 09. 2011
Yesterday I walked this path via Sovatna, through Dovška vratca and via shortcut to the marked path to Pihavec. Only the scree is quite steep. In some places quite awkward, especially uphill. The climbing section itself is short and well secured. Above it, a short awkward crossing from one side of the gully to the other, on very fine and loose scree. There one wrong step can quickly send you back under the climbing part of the path. Further on the path is easier. Beautiful view of Triglav opens to the south side. At the summit it was wonderful. Warm, clear. No crowds. Peace. Views divine. I took a few steps north and look, below sparkles the emerald green eye of the lower Kriško lake. One would just sit and enjoy. But had to go down. To Pogačnikov dom for coffee, past ibex under Stenar back to Vrata. Wonderful day in the embrace of the Julian Alps.
Lisa12. 09. 2011
@ ruševec
You wrote it well. Clear, understandable and above all really objective.
Melišče has its own story for me (back then still snežiščeeek), where I slipped away. The upper crossing above the secured part is exactly as you wrote. Very awkward feeling those 3-5 meters (don't remember anymore). I was descending there myself, because it seems to me a bit more demanding eek.
Anyway, many thanks for repeating Pihavec nasmeh
AnzeKozjek24. 06. 2014
Hello!
I'm just wondering how high that vertical climb on the brackets is almost at the top?

Thanks! nasmeh
jedriličar24. 06. 2014
Check the pictures from Sunday under current conditions - Pihavec. Now the fixed ropes are out about 3 meters, so the tour is not feasible without mastering the use of ice axe and crampons on very steep slopes. Best regards and stay safe mežikanje
AnzeKozjek24. 06. 2014
Aha, no I'm not planning to do the tour now. Asking for my girlfriend, as we're planning to go to Kriške Pode in July for 2-3 days and still deciding between Stenar and Pihavec. Križ is definite nasmeh She has a bit of fear of exposed sections, but she likes to grab the fixed rope nasmeh velik nasmeh
AnzeKozjek24. 06. 2014
I already have experience that pictures often deceive, that's why I'm asking nasmeh Thanks!
jedriličar24. 06. 2014
I recommend Stenar then, even in dry conditions to Pihavec there are very steep scree slopes before you reach the cables. After the cables no more problems...
brezdelnez25. 08. 2015
Is self-belay gear and helmet really necessary or can I go without them?
Viper25. 08. 2015
The helmet for Pihavec is pretty much mandatory. Self-belay gear is not exactly mandatory, but if in doubt, bring it with you.
Smetar25. 08. 2015
http://stanje-poti.pzs.si/

The path is still officially closed.
Zagoršek15. 07. 2016
svetilnik3. 08. 2017
Given that quite some time has passed since the last post, I'm wondering if the path to Pihavec is open.
bos3. 08. 2017
The path is officially closed.
I just passed by yesterday where the path branches off from Kriških podov to Pihavec (picture 43) and there is a sign with a warning.
franca3. 08. 2017
and it also flies down quite often, you can hear it up to Gamsovec.
mirank3. 08. 2017
I think that access from Luknja is not closedvelik nasmeh;
ločanka3. 08. 2017
This one is the most beautifulnasmeh
turbo3. 08. 2017
@ločanka

Almost the most beautiful zavijanje z očmi

The most beautiful is from Zadnjica to the unfortunately overgrown Planina Zajavor and from there towards Luknja and further to Pihavec . . . (and if at the beginning of the gully in the glass jar there is still that wonderful farewell letter to Tine, you can't help but read it, sit down and reminisce ...)
ločanka3. 08. 2017
turbo, you'll have to go more times, then it will be less overgrownnasmeh
zudo29. 08. 2018
The path to Pihavec from Kriških podov is officially closed due to active rockfalls.
jaka1328. 06. 2019
Does anyone know when the path (if at all) will be open again?
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