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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Dolkova špica / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Route name: on SE ridge
Walking time: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Elevation gain: 1604 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1604 m
Map: Triglav 1.25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 19.077
 5 people like this post
Number of photos: 10
Number of comments: 16
Access to starting point:
We leave the Gorenjska motorway at the Hrušica exit and continue following the road towards Kranjska Gora. Just before the village of Dovje, a road branches off to the left from the main road, leading to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma). We continue following the road towards the Vrata valley and drive along it to the large parking lot near Aljažev dom.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we continue along the gravel road, which after 3 minutes of walking brings us to the junction at Aljažev dom.
We continue right in the direction of Škrlatica and Dolkova špica along the path that leads us across a meadow into the forest. We then ascend an initially gentle cart track that higher up turns into a somewhat steeper footpath. Soon the path brings us to the bed of a torrent, along which we ascend for only a short time before it turns right and climbs steeply through the forest. The path then turns left, crossing a short avalanche-prone slope before gradually transitioning to the slopes below Stenar. We continue ascending these slopes, lightly overgrown with dwarf pine and individual larches. Higher up, the path reaches a small junction where we continue right towards Škrlatica (left to Stenar via an unmarked path over Stenarska vratca). The path ascends only briefly further before flattening and reaching a larger junction, where we continue right towards Škrlatica (left to the bivouac in 2 minutes and Križ in 1:30). The path then crosses a small scree field and turns sharply right. Next, we traverse a slightly exposed ledge (risk of slipping), after which we reach the pastures below Dolkova špica.
The route begins a good half hour from the bivouac on a grassy promontory directly below the SE branch of Dolkova špica. We first ascend steep grass slopes, occasionally climbing over rocks. Later in the wall, we seek the easiest passages between chimneys and gullies, generally keeping to the right side. Cairns mark difficult orientation points. The steepness persists until Spodnja Dolkova špica at 2541 m; only here does the true ridge properly begin. The ridge is approximately 1 km long with moderate difficulties; only the passage into the notch requires a secure and steady step—this may be the most demanding part of the entire tour.
From the summit, we descend to Rdeča škrbina, where we have two options: either towards the bivouac on Rušje (better known as bivouac IV) or into Zadnji Dolek and descent through the cirque between Škrlatica and Dolkova špica.
route map - Dolkova špica
Along the route: Bivak na Rušju (1980m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica1
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica2
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica3
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica4
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica5
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica6
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica7
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica8
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica9
Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica10
Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Dolkova špica (on SE ridge)
SilvestrO16. 08. 2011
Dolkova špica - SE ridge -14.8.2011. Among various goals, this peak has been sticking out the most for some time.
From the path towards Škrlatica I turned left on the grass, and at the grassy saddle by the cairn I put on my helmet. From here it gets a bit more serious..., I probably pushed too far left, because I hit the cairns again right below S. Dolkova špica. On the summit ridge towards the main peak I enjoyed great views in all directions,...it was scorching tooeek
From Dolkova špica I descended to Rdeča škrbina and climbed to Rogljica, added a stone to the cairn and then "zigzagged" back to the notch. For Rakova špica the will was lacking,...dried out by the sunzmeden velik nasmeh
Nevertheless, the little rascal in me was satisfied and I happily descended to Aljažev dom with long sips ...you know whatvelik nasmeh.
SilvestrO13. 09. 2011
A few more pictures...
Dina11. 08. 2012
Last Sunday I did the ascent together with an experienced mountaineer, the description is well given, only once we got a bit "lost", but we immediately realized it was a bit too steep and turned in the opposite direction, where after a short time a cairn appeared and said everything is ok....cairns are rare, but when you spot them, you're glad you're on the right path nasmeh.
Enjoyed the scrambling, peace, beautiful views....that day we were the only ones on the summit. Happy and proud that this Šodrovska classic is on my menu nasmeh
ljubitelj gora19. 08. 2013
If the weather is good this weekend I would go to the summit via this route, if anyone is interested and has it planned we can meet in Vratih.
jesihar5. 09. 2013
Is the path described in some guidebook as well?
pikica15. 09. 2013
Yes it's in the guidebook by Tinet Mihelič, Northern approaches - Julian Alps
Best.
JusAvgustin6. 09. 2013
all who went by this description say that this is quite sufficient nasmeh nice easy climbingmežikanje good luck!
Jovan Cukut9. 09. 2013
A bit more about the ascent on the most ''rugged'' (in my opinion) ridge in the Julians in pictures and comments on the link below.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/JVGrebenDolkoveSpice0709201302#
Jonny_23. 07. 2014
On Sunday this chaos on the mountain as (emergency) plan B. The tour is serious, no rushing, unless you already know the passages by heart. Climbing in this wide and unclear rubble is possible everywhere, so there are no "right" and "wrong" passages, and descriptions can't be relied on too much due to all possibilities. Don't blindly follow cairns either, as they can mislead you. Advance first with your head.

https://picasaweb.google.com/117716969375992242593/DolkovaSpica2072014?noredirect=1
JusAvgustin23. 07. 2014
nicely documented, Matej and I started already down in the gully/channel and avoided the tough grasses on the approach to the ledge
ljubitelj gora23. 07. 2014
Jonny, they also had the red cap with themnasmeh
_sandra_24. 07. 2014
Matej, too bad they didn't invite you too, then you'd be a four-leaf clover, right? velik nasmeh
ljubitelj gora25. 07. 2014
all three are members of the Alpine section, so I'm not exactly welcome among suchzavijanje z očmi
Climber917. 09. 2020
My girlfriend and I did this tour on Saturday. I was a bit surprised by the scree on the entire path, in between we came across 4 cairns, which we were infinitely happy about velik nasmeh
As Mihelič says, I too was not always clear whether I was on the climbing route or off trail. But we definitely got lost in between, because I don't remember that passage to the saddlezmedenvelik nasmeh
On the entire tour we were alone, we met 2 at the top of Dolkova špica, towards Škrlatica it was quite lively.
andrejp14. 11. 2025 15:03:38
On Wednesday I went along the ridge. There was practically no snow to the top, you have to find the cairns a bit, but you always stay more to the right and follow logical passages. On the marked path from the top, I then equipped myself with crampons and ice axe, as there is snow on the south side. The grass below the ridge entry then provided me with a warm base for resting with exceptional views of the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, even outside the tourist season, they "rip you off" for 15€....
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