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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Spodnji Rokav / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Spodnji Rokav (Potočnik - Tominšek)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Spodnji Rokav (Potočnik - Tominšek)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1015 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Route name: Potočnik - Tominšek
Walking time: 5 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Elevation gain: 1485 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1500 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 14.536
 5 people like this post
Number of photos: 17
Number of comments: 3
Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of valley Vrata and we drive on that road to the large parking lot near Aljažev dom.
Route description:
At the beginning of the parking lot, we go towards the cirques Pod Dolkom and Suhi plaz. It is best to view the route of the approach already from the parking lot, because orientation will be later in a dense forest much harder. After a good hour of walking through a very steep forest in front of us opens an ample area of cirques. Now we go on a distinct ridge, which divides two cirques. The walk is because of the gravel and dwarf pines very strenuous. We soon get to the foot of a larch ridge, which will be now our orientation point. On the ridge, we ascend from the left towards the right on a distinct ramp. We follow the panoramic ridge to the upper massif of Spodnji Rokav, there is also the entrance into the route. Into the route, we enter right from the ridge. After a pleasant walk through grass and low larches we reach the foot of a groove (II, 200 meters), which leads over the first wall to a distinct gendarme in the wall. At the gendarme, we cross to the left (exposed) to the foot of the next dihedral, which leads over the second wall. In this dihedral we in principle stick to the gully, it is also possible to avoid the jump on the right rib. In easier short climbing we are slowly getting closer to the last rocky barrier before the ramp, where the problems end. The last wall we climb over an exposed wall (first piton in the route, III.) to the foot of a distinct chimney. The chimney is also a technical detail of the tour (20 meters III. grade). We are now standing on a very wide ramp, from where to the top is only a short jump (50 meters I.-II.). We are looking for passages, the route isn't definite, and in principle we stick more to the right side. The view, which we get at the top is indescribable. I wish you a safe ascent in this rubble pearl.
route map - Spodnji Rokav
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Photos:
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav1
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav2
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav3
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav4
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav5
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav6
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav7
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav8
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav9
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav10
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav11
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav12
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav13
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav14
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav15
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav16
Aljažev dom v Vratih  - Spodnji Rokav17
Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Spodnji Rokav (Potočnik - Tominšek)
4329. 09. 2013
I'm just wondering where the most recommended descent from Rokav is (i.e. where the abseil in the picture leads)
JusAvgustin30. 09. 2013
Along the ledge where P-T ends, or 30 meters below the summit - abseil into Kotli cirque. But you must know the exact location of the anchor for descent! It's quite visible from picture 16...mežikanje
plesec23. 07. 2017
The belay for the first rappel has two bolts. Are the subsequent belays also equipped with bolts? With a 60 m rope there are 3 rappels.
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