| jerque18. 02. 2024 13:19:44 |
A bit long about yesterday's (17.2.) tour...
To Zaplana one usually drives directly or approaches it from the Vrhnika direction via Planina nad Vrhniko or Stari maln. This time I chose a circular path from Logatec, which could also be called "military history path", as it really covers different historical periods. Well, perhaps Logatec and Vrhnika tourist workers will finally put heads together, add some signs and integrate existing "ingredients" into a common product.
From Logatec center first had to get to the starting point of the Roman wall in Cesarski Vrh.
Along the main road to Vrhnika is somewhat suicidal, so I went a bit around through wilderness on the other side of the track. The military history part starts already when we reach the Stara cesta on the northern edge of Logatec, notice the sign (already from Soča I know that the Pot miru foundation knows how to prepare very informative signs) and the remains of the railway embankment from WWI times, when they wanted to build a line to Godovič for supplying the Soča front. Quite suitable to fill time when nearby barriers are down due to crossing long freight trains. When they finally rise, I head along the so-called tank road still from JNA times, which would otherwise lead to the still active Ivan Cankar barracks south of Vrhnika. Behind the last house asphalt turns to gravel, soon after I turn left onto a forest path through wilderness to the north. Here navigation maPZS is very welcome, which is open also to "3rd party" providers and thus has Jakobova pot drawn in, i.e. Slovenian "branch" of the famous northern Spanish Camino. And if we're at military history, Spaniards revere St. James so much because of the legend that he abundantly helped them in fights against Moors. Truth be told, this Jakobova pot is marked with yellow arrows, but only in the opposite direction. Anyway, luckily no close encounters with possibly prematurely awakened bears and so eventually I arrive at some beginnings of civilization in Cesarski Vrh, where after overpass I cross the track, then level "old" road between Vrhnika and Logatec (care needed as visibility not best), on the other side first a monument awaits (at least the flag surely visible from road) to two fallen soldiers in independence war and simultaneous clash where territorials managed to stop tank breakthrough.
Along the trodden path from this monument we quickly reach the start of the thematic path along the Roman wall Claustra Alpium Iuliarum or "Ajdovski zid". The path itself is easy to follow, along it some trilingual signs in Slovenian, Croatian and English, additionally on many trees signs with their Slovenian and Latin names. Wall foundations also quite well preserved and easy to follow, sometimes can notice foundations of defensive towers. To make the spectrum of military-historical "artifacts" complete, somewhere on the path suddenly we come to a barrier and sign that it's an area of special military importance, i.e. some kind of still active military object of Slovenian army and probably before JNA. Google Maps says "Zaplana Rocket Base", i.e. Zaplana rocket base. Well, just before the barrier the thematic path branches off road again to forest path, past foundations of another tower and then ends at road by sign about Roman soldiers. Anyway, say thematic path with reading signs takes about 40 min one way (up).
There the last thematic sign of this path directs to "gostišče". Probably means gostilna Mesec, which is obviously a real institution there. Anyway, on the inn hung sign closed until 22.2. At parking in front of inn also sign about local curiosities. If we're doing thematic path on military history, then the only logical extension is "Pot po Rupnikovi liniji", as marked on OpenStreetMap. Imagine the irony. First walk along remains of wall that defended Roman empire from barbarian attacks from east, continue along remains of defensive line that should defend territory from invasion of proud successors of Romans from opposite direction...  After occupation Italians on "their" territory deliberately destroyed all bunkers (apparently didn't believe in longevity of alliance with Germans who might later use bunkers against them), for unknown reasons spared four on Zaplana area. Well, not quite, tore out iron gun slits, with that ultimately, as we'll see, "plucked" bunkers got quite interesting look. And all four surviving bunkers connects thematic path between eastern and western part of Prezid (main settlement Zaplana) over Marinčev grič. Even if bunkers don't interest us, this path almost obligatory for views, along it some benches and also energy points (what influences of most famous Zaplančan Janez Drnovšek?), one might even suspect bioenergetics advised line designers on placing objects... To reach this path, a bit before gostilna Mesec turn right from main road (sign for "Razgledni stolp", probably means that on Planina nad Vrhniko), soon after from road turn left to path where Rupnik line markings start directing us. First still ascend along remains of Roman wall, midway ascent sign about Rupnik line itself. When reach ridge, probably highest point of this thematic path, sign awaits at site of one demolished intermediate standard object, they must have been thorough as no visible remains left, instead saw quite some dung around. Anyway, bilingual signs seem much better designed than those around Gorenja vas. When continue along from here also hiking and military path, reach edge of meadow where first preserved bunker awaits, due to position most "instagramable" and visible also from Prezid. Since grass not growing yet, searched "holes" in fence and photographed from all possible perspectives, as all others can enter on own responsibility, no flashlight needed. A bit further rest area and viewpoint of surroundings, "rose" with directions already somewhat eaten by time. When continue along forest edge and main path turns left, in forest notice new sign about defensive system functioning and nearby in forest two bunkers, one right and one left. Interior of right one (in comments pic no. 2) very muddy, so viewed only through opening, at left (third) could enter inside. When continue, quickly notice fourth bunker with sign about construction. In interior of this bunker finally emboldened to climb "ladder" (built-in pegs) and peek through plucked observation slits in turret. Path then leads to main road and Napoleon well, allegedly built for needs of French (Napoleonic) army when occupied Ljubljana. If someone wants to come to Zaplana just for Rupnik line, beside this well parking space available, on it also sign about mercury path (once only road to Idrija passed here, mercury used inter alia as gun barrel cleaner). The thematic path with bunker exploring quite quickly takes hour and half.
Follows return to Logatec via marked hiking path, which later upon map checking proves mistake, as goes quite around compared to unofficial direct alternatives from Prezid. First along asphalted road until markings sharply left to gravel forest paths. Well, when official path joins unofficial direct from Prezid and should turn right, notice sign for Jezerc, so rather turn left and soon really follows viewpoint platform on this high peat bog and some monolingual info signs explaining process of natural "dying" of lake. Quite interesting thing, but probably too little spectacular for "like hunters". Beside platform search another access path to edge, of course not too close to catch "lake" from other perspectives, turns out only from viewpoint platform rest of water surface visible. Well, if someone comes straight from Prezid, it can attract before viewpoint platform, also otherwise many don't read "long-winded" info signs, so at edge wouldn't hurt additional warning sign about danger of walking on "living mud".
From Jezerc back to official path, which joins directly main road between Rovte and Logatec, luckily after some 200 m (no sidewalk etc.) branches right to tracks approx parallel to this road. Now completely flat path drags on and on, plus farmers started fertilizing fields along it. Finally arrive to Logatec or "suburb" Naklo. And militarily-historically end, as path started, i.e. with WWI track to Godovič. Because suddenly on right appears former railway tunnel, from our side nicely marked as pedestrian/cycle path, from other that passage forbidden. Well, latter understandable, as I unwittingly illegally crossed it, turns out narrow and quite deep drainage channel runs in middle, transversely shallower channellets cut it. In short, without help of daylight and if not watching every step, one quickly stumbles, or worse. Subsequent "archaeological research" via Google Streetview and its "time machine" reveals prohibition sign should be also on other side, but someone probably arbitrarily removed it. Still in 2013 tunnel must have been literally buried from both sides. On other side also narrow-gauge loco "Mašinka" exhibited, my model rail eye quickly notices something suspicious and nearby sign soon confirms it's just replica. Well, if municipal "fathers" really don't want climbing on "loco", let them express clearly with additional sign right by it, as that "long-windedness" many don't read.
So, circular path "nailed", lasted around 4.5 hours, if believe odometer (step counter on watch), about 18 km long. For rounding military-historical spectrum with more active search surely some partisan monument found, by Logatec parish church noticed monument to postwar massacre victims, somewhere around Cesarski Vrh apparently postwar killing site too...
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