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List of forums / Slovenia / Dolomites / Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m

Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m

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bagi20. 09. 2019 15:19:08
Cima Cadin is a prominent peak in the Cadin group and part of the Sexten Dolomites. It is also the only peak in this area accessible to ordinary hikers with ferrata knowledge. An incredibly long, endless chain of heavenly slabs leads to it. The official category of the Merlone ferrata is C, which says little about its exposure. This is exceptional. Most of the time there is so much air under your feet that you feel the draft between your toes velik nasmeh.

We underestimated the ferrata precisely because of the C category and climbed it without via ferrata kits. Thanks to good holds we had no problems, but we corrected this mistake with relief before the descent. The descent follows the ascent route, so encounters can be quite tricky. More in the photo story…

Starting point is the hut *Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio*

Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Rifugio Fonda Savio, hut placed in wonderful surroundings1
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Turn-off for Merlone ferrata is 20 minutes above the hut2
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Entrance on left side of valley with cairns and markers3
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Ferrata Merlone and Ceria Merlone path in Western Julians built and dedicated by CAI Trieste to same alpinist4
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The peculiarity of this route are the blue markers that follow each other from the start of the via ferrata all the way to the summit5
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m From the scree to the via ferrata entrance there is some easy scrambling on good rock. Then a very special ascent begins :)6
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Most of the via ferrata we overcome the wall with the help of ladders. In the top third, the steepness is too great for their use7
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m We cross from one to the other, of various lengths and inclinations8
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m We knew there would be quite a few, but so many heavenly little ladders we didn't expect9
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Where they couldn't be bolted into the rock due to the steepness, they were connected to each other10
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Transition to one of the cross ledges11
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Concrete vertical12
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m View back13
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The style of endless ascent on little ladders is the same for a long time. Some verticals, ledge to the right, ledge to the left14
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Break15
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m From here on, an extremely exposed traverse along the cables begins, that's why photos are missing :)16
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Rest comes only high up just below the summit. Ingenious protections prevent scree from falling onto the via ferrata17
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Cima Cadin Nord/Est, the only summit in the Cadin group accessible to non-alpinists. In the background are the Tre Cime18
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m View back into the approach cirque19
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m View towards Rifugio Savio hut and the climbing paradise just behind it20
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The descent follows the same route, which can be a problem when meeting others. Sometimes it is impossible21
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Fortunately, we only met three and even that at places where we could squeeze past each other.22
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m During the ascent we underestimated the C category of this via ferrata and went without harnesses. On the descent we did not repeat that mistake.23
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Vertical section. Even on the ladders the exposure is felt.24
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The ladders are old, but apart from slippery rungs there are no problems.25
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The via ferrata was built in the 1960s.26
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m The last descent27
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m End of the ladders. Then some rocky terrain to the scree follows.28
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m A view for the gods … and us two :)29
Via Ferrata Merlone to Cima Cadin N/E - 2788 m Map of the traversed path. GPS did not work well in these walls.30
(+11)like
primozg23. 07. 2024 21:26:29
Last week via this ferrata to Cima Cadin. More photos and route description at https://gorskimoz.si/2024/07/23/cima-cadin-po-ferati-merlone/
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