List of forums / Slovenia / Carnic Alps / Via ferrata dei 50 Clap - Creton di Culzei

Via ferrata dei 50 Clap - Creton di Culzei

Bojan_A2. 11. 2013 10:29:46

Yesterday my buddy and I were on this ferrata. It really is a marathon-long ferrata that increases in difficulty - easy at the start, hardest at the end. From the Forca Alpina notch we descended a new ferrata. Does anyone know its name by chance?

REPORT: http://bojanambrozic.wordpress.com/2013/11/02/creton-di-culzei-via-ferrate-dei-50-clap/

(+5)

IgorZlodej3. 11. 2013 09:22:15

From Forc. Alpina, for some years now, a new descent has been arranged, which previously ran directly down the gully where it kept collapsing and tearing protections. It has no special name, but is part of the 50 pillars path.
The author of the mentioned ferrata is also the keeper of the Nilo hut, who installed most protections himself and work with compressor and drill is not foreign to him mežikanje

.
One of the most beautiful ferratas far around, which requires good condition and versatile experience.

(+5)

Bojan_A3. 11. 2013 11:24:18

Aha, thanks for the clarification. nasmeh

mirank1. 07. 2015 22:37:37

Although with a one-week delay, still a few words about this long and interesting route. Just like Creta Forata last year, this year the Cretoni didn't allow detailed insight into the rugged wall, as some mix of fog and cloudiness was constantly brewing on the ridges. Accordingly, the views north and west were so-so. About the difficulty itself plenty is already written so no fear you'll be bored there. Since it was a workday in It, Nilo was alone, and so almost an hour passed for us there in interesting conversation. On leaving, at his request we sang to him also "as many drops as..." nasmeh

(he joined too). What do I know; here and there "see you" and similar in huts gives me hope that something is changing in the west..

(+1)

IgorZlodej1. 09. 2015 17:12:13

Because it's so beautiful, demanding and no queues I decided for a fifth repetition. Of course I must warn it's not for inexperienced, even less for those with poor psycho-physical condition.
Pian di Casa - hut F. De Gasperi, Sentiero Corbelini path to Siera pass is officially closed, but passable to ferrata entrance, for experts further too.
All protections in place to the top, likewise on descent from Forcella Alpina, where choice between gully descent or new ferrata over SE wall of Clapa Grande.

(+1)

matic416. 08. 2017 08:00:03

Ferata 50 is closed. The notice is only at the ferrata start, nothing at the hut. Cables removed. At the hut only sign for path No. 316. Normal via (past chapel) to summit is normally passable, enough marks, no signs. Also at summit no notices that Ferata 50 is closed.

(+5)

bagi16. 08. 2017 08:32:49

Our goal this weekend was also Ferata 50, but luckily we changed goal day before departure due to notice on this page ... http://caitolmezzo.it/news/

Also closed is the shortest connecting road from Pesarina valley towards Sappada valley, which runs under the walls of Terza Grande. Building new bridge, but anyway don't recommend due to poor road surface

(+5)

bagi16. 08. 2017 14:14:30

From Rifugio de Gasperi I got info that on Ferata 50 at start cable removed for some tens of meters and there is climbing grade 2. Further on protection flawless.

Quote ... *The Friuli section has the first 50 meters without the cable. They are second degree passages, then it is all workable*

Likewise the Corbelini access path is arranged, for which CAI Tolmezzo still warns on their pages that it's closed.

Quote ... *Corbellini trail is open from July and it is available*

(+1)

matic416. 08. 2017 16:08:16

Yeah this is interesting. If I'd known I'd have climbed, the rock seemed pretty good to me.

(+1)

matic413. 09. 2018 16:37:30

bagi wrote quite right. Ferrata start is 30m without cable (rock is good), further all flawless. Somewhere in middle of ferrata the rock seemed strangely cracked to me, maybe cable removed on purpose. Ferrata officially still closed. Descent via normale without issues. Now more used access from Sappada via passo dell'Arco along ferrata Simone to forc. del Alpino where joins ferata 50, usually descend to bivouac Damiana del Gobbo.

(+2)

funnyboy24. 07. 2019 21:43:51

Carnic beauties... velik nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.com/2019/07/med-pesarino-in-sappado-creton-di.html

(+3)

rozka25. 07. 2019 09:04:43

Congratulations team velik nasmeh

, for another tick on Carnic beauties mežikanje

(+1)

funnyboy25. 07. 2019 18:11:14

Hehe, thanks rozka velik nasmeh

. We're diligently making checkmarks hehe jezik

Congrats to you too for your tour.... Is there still any piece of world under Kroficka that your foot hasn't stepped on? jezik

nenap25. 07. 2019 19:11:55

Congrats

to Kroficka and the Karnians, beautiful velik nasmeh

bagi7. 08. 2019 14:31:42

The second day of exploring the Pesarina Dolomites was of course marked by Ferrata dei 50. This one was officially open only a few days ago after numerous complications. The protections are now from the start of the ferrata and are no longer removed as in previous years. The approach to the ferrata is not marked, but visible from the Corbellini path.

All the best about the ferrata nasmeh

. It can't be described, you simply have to walk it. So that it doesn't mislead anyone by chance, the ferrata indeed requires full respect. It reaches D grade and is officially 6 to 7 hours long plus descent. Some snapshots in the photo story…

The second day we concluded with a long, scenically very beautiful descent to the starting point in Cima Sappada. The paths are well marked, just don't fully trust the time estimates on this side. The time was probably measured by a mountain runner velik nasmeh

.

Data on the walked path for the second day: 13 km / 1200 elevation gain
Link to the first day… Click

Rifugio Fratelli De Gasperi, friendly hut that hosted us overnight.

To the 50 towers ferrata it's half an hour walk along our yesterday's path. The branch-off is not specially marked.

NON SALIRE … do not go up. This quote on the sign is past. The ferrata is fully equipped with protections, officially opened a few days ago.

Just a month ago, protections were missing in the initial few tens of meters. These are so steep that the passage was not easy despite good rock.

The initial part of the ferrata runs more or less in the direction of the steep gully up to the upper towers.

Already from afar we can observe individual sections of the steel cables, which assist the ascent along natural passages.

For warm-up, some steep steps must be quickly overcome

View back to the towers of the Pesarinski Dolomites

Heavenly grippy rock :) Despite occasional extreme exposure, the rock is excellent, grips and footholds stable

Plenty of air underfoot is quite standard

The ferrata consistently follows natural lines

Of course it doesn't go without effort, but the unique setting ensures you hardly feel it :)

After every difficult section, a rest spot is quickly found

Sometimes you're quite surprised by the ferrata's course :)

The cables are impeccable and not at all Italian-loose

We used the safety kits each at our own discretion, sometimes yes, sometimes no

The ferrata's length is extraordinary. Official time is 6 to 7 hours and under 2 hours descent to De Gasperi hut

No, no .... it was just preparation for a wide traverse, similar to Cjajnik :)

.... up there towards the blue sky. The view in the photo matches the real conditions well :)

Just a few final meters and the tower will be behind us

Our goal … Creton dei Culzei. The path to it still offers some surprises :)

Hold marked with a red dot. So that you find it, of course :)

The path first descends into a deep notch and on the opposite side offers yet another tower

Photographing in the via ferrata is usually not the easiest. I gladly use a very short *little break*

Creton dei Culzei. In the background Torre Sappada, on which a marked route of exposed 2nd degree leads.

The descent to the Dell' Alpino saddle is far from easy, moreover it is crumbly.

This is what most of the descent looks like.

Google translator at work in the Dell' Alpino saddle :)

We continued on 232 towards Sappada to bivouac Damiana. Descent from the saddle despite abundant scree was not strenuous.

We will have to go up there too, to the Dei Cadin saddle.

The bivouac has a nice position, only from outside it looks so-so...

Bivak Damiana. By it is a sign with 1.5 hours to Sappada, which is completely unrealistic. We needed 3 hours of fast hiking.

The interior is without complaints, everything is nicely arranged.

Inscription above the bunks. A translation would be welcome :)

To reach the Ciadin saddle, one must work quite hard

A farewell to the pleasant cirque with bivouac and we're already heading into the next valley

Sappada is still far, far away, Cima Sappada even a bit further

Devastated slope. Trees scattered like matches

Another saddle to climb to. This time it's Passo del Arco

Passo del Arco. Here the ferrata Simone branches off to the right

From the saddle we switched to path 317 all the way to the junction with 316.

One must avoid the deep gorge before reaching it

When sign 318 appears, we turn in that direction

We're almost at the end of the second day :)

GPS track of the second day is light blue

(+7)

funnyboy7. 08. 2019 15:38:16

Bravo to the team for the nice tour velik nasmeh

(+1)

turbo21. 09. 2020 09:02:55

Friday, 18.9.2020

Long ago there were times when doubles and triples on pathless terrain didn't give me trouble, quite the opposite, they were a pleasure. Paths like Amalia on Montaz, Via della Vita on Vevnica, crossing Rateske Pone all the way to Mangart, Gola NE on Vis and more, were a great joy to me. Then came time for different joys in the mountains, skis and dog demanded different paths, no less beautiful and joyful. At the beginning of this second joy, in September 2011 Igor invited me to Cinquanta, saying come with us (GRS Bovec), the ferrata is really great. I wasn't "climbed in" anymore, my step wasn't as fast as before, so I politely thanked for the invitation. And for a good while I was nagging myself, what opportunity did you miss... Well, a year or two ago I stepped on more demanding paths again, this time alone, "solo" as they say modernly, and step by step got almost back to where I once was. Triples alone (not yet), doubles and demanding ferratas yes and with pleasure. Every now and then I "settle" some "old debt" and this time Ferrata dei 50 del Clap came up.

At 7am I was at Piani di Casa all excited, then calmed down and above Rifugio De Gasperi the tour started properly. Protections all the way to the top of Creton di Culzei in good condition, at the beginning where you need to hit the right gully, there's now a sign "F50", as the start of the path is collapsed and almost invisible. A few meters higher it's better, when you reach the cables orientation problems end, although some caution in the gullies is advisable as markings are quite faded. Descent from the top to Forca dell'Alpino is annoying in places, as the cable for self-belay is sometimes strung oddly high above the ground. Since I descended here two months ago after ferrata Simone, I knew what awaited and prepared a longer prusik which I used twice with benefit. From Forca dell'Alpino to the hut I descended the gully, as I wanted to do Cinquanta in its original version. The gully is one big collapse, no matter how careful, stones and rocks will roll down. God forbid someone below, no less horrible if someone above you. That's why I tackled the tour on Friday, figuring there won't be many on the path, in the end to my great joy I was alone all day. The protections in the gully, such as they are, are also in good condition and I gladly used them. But the gully is relatively short and if you don't dawdle, you're quickly out safe. Then leisurely to the hut, some collapses in between - watch markings and cairns there - and down to the valley.

Still smiling today, it was so smooth nasmeh

http://tubojan.blogspot.com/2020/09/ferrata-dei-50-del-clap.html

Sentiero Corbellini - access to Cinquante

Sentiero Corbellini - junction to Cinquanto

Cinquanta - view of De Gasperi, nice spot for a rest

Cinquanta - most exposed section, huge abyss below

from left to right - Monte Siera, Piccolo Siera (two-headed peak), Creta Forata

below Cadin di Dentro and bivouac Bivacco Damiana del Gobbo

Terza Piccola and Terza Media, between them Passo della Digola

descent gully from Forca dell'Alpino - view back

Descent gully from Force dell Alpino - view back

View back to the peaks above Val Pesarino

Mountains above Sauris (Novarza, Pieltinis, Torondon,... familiar, already visited)

(+8)

milesdavis21. 09. 2020 11:01:15

Good descriptions under the pictures nasmeh

(+1)

voluhar7. 10. 2020 23:00:44

https://tomazsarc.blogspot.com/2020/09/creton-di-culzei-po-via-ferrata-del-50.html

(+1)

mirank24. 08. 2021 22:12:06

The trail from start to hut is well trodden, no wonder as there are quite a few hut visitors. Further on the Corbellini path shows noticeably less traffic; we cross the first gully, the second is a real collapse spiced with crossing ice remains. If at the turn into the third gully we watch the collapse under feet too much we easily miss the Cinquanta signs in the rocks 20m above our trail (the sign by the trail that Bojan mentions is no longer there). Two Italians whom I occasionally saw ahead of us on the other side of the gully walk a bit forward then back, when I turn left they hurry back nasmeh

No point wasting words on the ferrata itself, others have described it and no changes since last visit. Since I once did the descent through that collapse from the gully at Forca dell'Alpino and suitably blackened it to other tour participants mežikanje

we descended via ferrata GAS. This climbs from the notch a couple m left, then steeply breaks down and probably here is the hardest part of the whole tour. So we don't avoid the gully entirely zavijanje z očmi

the ferrata ends 20m before exit to the meadow. At first I wasn't paying attention, but I think on Corbellini path there are 14 cable sections, Cinquanta has 60, 8 on descent to notch and another 6 on GAS; full portion. Rain caught us while drinking at Pian di Casa mežikanje