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Velika Martuljška Ponca 2602 and Oltar 2621 from Dnina

lijaneja7. 07. 2020 14:02:04

Now it's clear how old I am. velik nasmeh

Thanks for the heads-up, Janez, and apologies again to Jovan.

I need to enlist the grandkids to computer-educate me a bit so I won't lag so behind the world... zmeden

(+4)

Dr.ejči7. 07. 2020 22:24:30

Just a well-meaning tip to "suhikekec" and others... since I was at one end of the rope then, Juš at the other, Paradise is a chapter unto itself!... compared to the ascent of VMP or VO, it's concretely harder... the scree ledge (compacted, red, hence Paradise, sand) is very exposed!... so I heartily advise against "soloing"... oh, we left one more peg there then zavijanje z očmi

(+4)

suhikekec8. 07. 2020 13:35:41

Dr.ejči, thanks for the well-meaning advice of course, if we decide we'll inquire beforehand, because this Martuljek group, especially the ridges are very scree-filled.

lijaneja8. 07. 2020 17:08:40

Definitely descent over 'Paradise' is not reachable for us ordinary scree-walkers without alpinist help. In its chapter Juš and Janez nicely described the descent from VMP.
http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=5594&stran=1

(+3)

lijaneja22. 08. 2023 12:38:40

After two years I repeated the exercise yesterday, only I didn't go to try tea in Krnica but first climbed Oltar. For safety I took battery and short rope from gear, but they served only as ballast at the bottom of the backpack.
Classically I start under the third summit serpentine, where only two vehicles are parked, and in the pleasant coolness head towards Krnica. Instead of tea three sips of water, with which the drink is cooled in the trough. The gully before turning out of it is in an awful state, so at this time of year probably won't push up there anymore. Soon above bivouac change clothes, put flat juice bottle under snow to cool, and via steep scree reach shattered barrier between Ponca and Oltar. Surprisingly it went quite well, as I hit the right entry right away. First rays today caress me for a few minutes at the top of the ridge, then only right at the top of Oltar after nice climbing. Up top I run into a couple who soon headed back towards Gully. Whole day saw no living souls besides them, except guy who in the morning probably went towards Špik. Return from ridge was really nasty, besides debris under feet and extreme looseness, sun annoyingly scorched. Luckily only about 80-90 meters, slide down scree, and into steep short gully above which nasty cornice sticks out in winter. From nice viewpoint couldn't part, short scree part awaits and into second gully with excellent holds and already on Ponca roof. To summit just stroll. Stay up good hour, goats came to keep company. Photograph everything again, dry clothes, snack and stroll in undies on broad summit ridge.
Descend 'new' variant (a bit sorry) right to clothes and drink left in the morning. Heat nails down, shelter is bivvy where make draft, whole hour its guest. Down went quite quickly, except right at bottom in gully where swore to see it in future only under thick snow blanket.