Triglav - Slovenian and Italian Direttissima
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| 1mitjas18. 10. 2013 07:39:45 |
The news is already quite old, but I still think it's worth posting. About 14 days ago I went with Matic and Rok probably the last time this year on the Slovenian one. In the morning we pushed through thick fog, which cleared up by Beli plati and onwards we enjoyed a beautiful day.
The rock in the route was wet, of course the consequence of the first days of October already. Since the guys are in super condition and Rok is named Frelih there were no doubts about the exit. Of course we had to go over the Frelih traverse. At the top of the wall I ask them if they'd go to the summit via one “new variant”. I've been eyeing the Italian Superdirettissima from various directions for some time: http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/74859/ Since the guys are excited about it, from the exit instead of down we head up towards the Kugy shelf.
Here snow started slowly and the shelf was all under snow. Since temperatures were quite pleasant it went over without problems. After all the shelf is marked, and some fixed ropes are there. I'd just warn that not all are meant for full load, some might pop out somewhere.
On the Western Triglav plateau then picture from G-L post in hands and up the hill. Right at the start of scree we get surprised by an extremely good path, well it ends later. In the wall above us we spot first pegs and ropes. Under the wall we gear up again and start climbing. Old pegs and ropes help us. Some are still super, most show time's wear quite a bit. Some ropes are tied a bit at the top, still pulling on them ain't a great idea. If nothing else most are corroded and with broken wires you quickly make a hole in your hand.
Since the whole route is covered in snow it takes quite some time, practically we climb pitch by pitch. The drawing in the mentioned post is quite accurate, the line can be followed quite easily with some orientation feel. This route is an interesting approach to Triglav summit, more of an alpine climb than an equipped path. But as such much better than north ridge, since rock here is better, protection sufficient with old pegs.
We took around 12h for the whole tour (car to car), with pace not slow. Descent back to Vrata of course over screes that hide a bit off marked paths. Figure out where yourselves, I like it there precisely because rarely meet anyone, only chamois ahead. Last time even ibex blocked us, find it in pics on next link: http://gorski.vodnik.alpinizem.net/blog/
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| zippo18. 10. 2013 17:38:02 |
Bravo really, old routes that existed shouldn't sink into oblivion
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| andrejp16. 11. 2015 09:28:40 |
Yesterday's deviation from the usual (Slovenian - Prevč exit). Whole route dry and snow-free. Towards Prag you can avoid snow patches on rocks.
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| jedriličar17. 04. 2016 10:42:51 |
To not open new thread, if anyone's interested, Saturday conditions in Slovenian:
Lower jump over prag completely rotten, still possible snow bypass all right
entry jump is mush, in few days question if passable or not
gully under larch upper part dry but we refused to chimneys above dry larch
traverses to notch under beli plati one hell, completely rotten
notch and beli plati completely dry
bučarjeva has lots overhanging mush so bypassed via that gully right
upper bučarjeva will be completely rotten in few days
to exit from bučarjeva wall snow is pure slop
continuation over slovenska and prevca anyway just walking, bit postholing, bit ok, now stamped anyway no problem
descent over cmir dol dunno, one skied down then at pri piru said for walkers postholing to balls
we went to kredarica then descended to krmu,
imo pushing into slovenska in these conditions not worth effort ...
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| Dr.ejči17. 04. 2016 11:32:19 |
Important that he gets it... pardon, happens...
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| jožka21. 08. 2016 10:50:35 |
1mitjas's entry excited Mrs. Marči so much that she grabbed the backpack and me and climbed across the wall via chimney and pillar, Frelih traverse, crossed Kugy ledge and climbed Italian Direttissima to the top. Remarks: Old lady via variants - chimney, pillar and pillar right of window, as if from wellness and at least as lively as neighboring Ger. one. Italian Direttissima pleasant, logically led route from Plemenic to top, doesn't cut live slabs (nor dead), just name somewhat misleading. Under direttissima I imagine going straight up, but here you zigzag left-right like later on Tominškova. Your Jožka
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| dprapr21. 08. 2016 12:08:28 |
What's the point of posting such good tours without photos?
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| IgorZlodej21. 08. 2016 15:40:11 |
Drago, you're right, these are made-up stories, don't belong on forum 
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| redbull21. 08. 2016 15:50:02 |
Probably it will take a few days because there are so many
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| sajmon17. 07. 2018 23:31:02 |
On Saturday, 14.07.2018, with Dean I climbed the Slovenian route. Weather sunny, conditions excellent. On the return via Stanič to štruklje, over Prag back to Vrata.
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| BBarbara8. 08. 2018 10:48:06 |
Does anyone have any info, what's the situation with snow patches in the Slovenian route? Thanks
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| dprapr8. 08. 2018 12:57:37 |
A week ago there was still some...
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| sAleska15. 10. 2018 07:53:33 |
Yesterday took a newbie up the Slovenian. Exited on Prevca as we only had helmets. For the first time she climbed really well. Rock completely dry. If going to Prevca better bypass snow in upper Slo gully left and cross the bend at start of Prevca. We alternately overtook group from AO Idrija. Thanks for pancakes. Leader (76 years) at exit said: Shall we young ones go to Triglav too? Though roughly 50 years younger, not all decided to go with the "youngster". Hats off to him! Weather and views top-notch.
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| sAleska26. 07. 2019 15:19:21 |
24.7. Slovenian: still snow in gully but bypassable.
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| redbull8. 08. 2021 15:35:17 |
Nice, how's the Direttissima?
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| Lukito8. 08. 2021 15:44:27 |
Wanted to S (SV) ridge but visibility ca 5m. A bit worried if more snow ahead and don't know path to Dirett so didn't risk. Went to Kredarica, thought (waited 3 buses down), coffee... etc.
Then decided not to leave packs at Kredarica cuz million people and gear could get lost, carried all to top and back, ate some and descended via Prag.
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| korl28. 10. 2024 07:30:53 |
Wonderful tour in nice weather. Congrats for including Direttissima.
But Triglav guardian not at home?
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