| triglavski28. 07. 2009 20:48:52 |
We had also eyed this mountain two years ago, back then of course from Terza Grande, it was supposed to be even easier to access than its big sister, and there was a nice article in the May issue of PV. From the Giuseppe Fabbro hut via forc. Lavardet we drive down the otherwise closed road into Frison valley to the starting point at the closed Volontan Alpini hut. First we go through the forest, then increasingly upwards along the west wall of Terza Grande, at some point we encounter a large snowfield, the path is marked above it, cables completely torn, the passage somewhat annoying, continuation again through some kind of gully, then along a small ridge in the middle of the gully which is secured with cable, then a bit of climbing, in the upper part of the cirque again some snowfields to cross and finally bivouac Francco Marta which the sun is just shining on. A short rest follows at the really nice bivouac and even more magnificent view. We continue somewhat up, then across, then somewhat down. Above us sheer rocky edges and impassable walls, below us deep gullies. The trail isn't really trodden, I'd say it's similar to some old Trentino hunter's path. When we reach the fork we really breathe a sigh of relief, namely this part of the path isn't innocent at all and quite long, requires a sure step. Some excess gear we stash in the bushes and head upwards, initially a nice little path leads us, even among very inviting grasses, when we get under the wall it starts somewhat more seriously. The big boulder we bypass each on our side, then we climb where marked with pitons, single difficulties don't exceed, somewhat annoying is the passage from wide wall into narrow jammed gully, jammed rocks in the gully we bypass on the right with help of a few meters of cable, short continuation almost on grasses all the way to small saddle from which we head left, where we find the notorious rocky hole through which we squeeze even with backpack, on the other side we grab the double cable which greatly eases passage above deep gully and passage along narrow ridge. There follow just a few meters to the summit. Satisfaction is great, views luxurious, Tre Cime, Cristallo, Antelao, Pelmo...., and of course Terza Piccola, for which we hope it will come its turn someday. Even on descent sure step is needed, on grasses we treat ourselves to long rest in warm sunshine. Down at the fork the beer can stayed appropriately cool, follows descent towards Passo Digola, then along unmarked trail to the road which brings us into Frison valley. Still half hour walk awaits me along the famous serpentines to the car and we drive to Val Visdende.
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