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| taubi44. 06. 2017 18:17:06 |
On Saturday we visited the Saddle Vrh Osojnika. We started from Bavšica at 7:00, had a short break at the Hunting Hut in Bala and then continued to Prevala. At around 1570 m a.s.l. we turned right through the scrub towards the well-visible shallow and bare gully that ascends towards the saddle. After half an hour of fighting through the scrub we finally reached the gully. There we also realized it would be much easier to leave the marked path at the sharp left bend at 1520 m a.s.l. and ascend the scree to the gully.
It is moderately steep and grass-covered and therefore passable. At 1800 m a.s.l. the gully turns into a wide rocky valley below Nizki vrh. When you think you've reached the saddle you realize you still have about 500 m air line across the valley below Špičica. To avoid descending we went along the slope towards Špičica and at saddle height turned right towards it. We reached the saddle around 11:00. Since we planned to descend from the saddle towards Planina Bukovec around 2 pm, we decided to try conquering one of the nearby peaks. Pihavec seemed the most demanding, so it was out right away. From the saddle Skutnik seemed the least demanding. We headed towards it, but under Špičica we changed our minds and went for its summit. We had ice axes with us which were very handy in the steep grass. Nevertheless at around 2130 m a.s.l., 40 m below the summit, we decided to descend. At that spot a peg was hammered into the rock, but we didn't have gear for belaying. I don't know if we tackled it from the right place. We tried from the north side and already from the slope facing Pelci. Since time was approaching 2 pm we gave up further attempts. Ahead was still the pathless descent to Planina Bukovec, which we didn't know either. Despite not knowing it we made it to the Hunting Hut in one hour. Although most approaches to Saddle Vrh Osojnika are from this side, for me the approach from Bala is much less demanding and much more comfortable.
If anyone has a picture of Špičica and Skutnik with the easiest access drawn in, I'd be very grateful for posting it.
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| turbo4. 06. 2017 19:57:44 |
It might be more than twenty years ago! We climbed to Špičica with a buddy from almost the end of Velika planina, where we came from planina Zapotok gor. Somewhere in the entrance to the saddle between Špičica and Nizki vrh, right under the "wall", where there's a larger cave on the right, goes a very steep grassy gully to the left. Up it and later straight up really very steep grass we reached a rocky notch, where we climbed out to the left and after a few meters of rock reached the top. On the way back we hammered a peg at the top of that notch for the first abseil and lower into the rock amid grass another for the second abseil. Many years later those pegs were still there, how it is today, I wouldn't know. The grass was insolently steep, the rock climbing didn't exceed second grade. We also tackled Skutnik from planina Zapotok, went up the ridge from left to right, viewed from the planina. Up very steep grass and scree we managed without protection, on the way back I know we rappelled one part with rope, but I don't remember anymore if we prusiked around some bush or hammered something there too. Continuing along the ridge towards Špičica seemed very demanding to us and since we had already been to Špičica, we didn't think about it later. From Sedlo Vrh Osojnika the easiest access to Nizki vrh, pathless, where you just help yourself with hands a few times. About the Pihavec ridge I only know that between Mali and Veliki there's a notch where you use a rope (abseil) and the difficulty of the detail is around third grade, but I was on Obljak, the lowest peak of the ridge, which we approached with a buddy from Bavšica. Orientationally demanding, steep grass and steep forest. Unfortunately no photos from these tours, because back then I didn't carry a camera to the mountains, and also with the buddy with whom we did these tours, we haven't been in touch for a decade or more. Good luck!
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| lijaneja4. 06. 2017 20:46:37 |
About five years ago I explored Špičica and you can check it out a bit. https://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=4351&stran=1
On Skutnik I was in August 2010. From Zadnja Trenta to planina Zapotok. There you turn right and cross the path behind Razorc that leads towards Kanj, and up the south slope easily to the top. Due to the severe grass steepness you help yourself with hands, so work gloves are very welcome.
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| dprapr4. 06. 2017 21:19:40 |
That short harder detail in the ridge between Mali and Veliki Pihavec will be a solid IV.
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| lijaneja4. 06. 2017 21:29:15 |
That means back then it was just a little short, and I would have stayed there forever.
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| dprapr4. 06. 2017 21:32:12 |
Why, if you were descending from above down? Just continue over Obljak into the valley.
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| lijaneja4. 06. 2017 21:50:42 |
The return was meant. At the anchor, however, a single rope was tied on.
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| taubi45. 06. 2017 14:28:05 |
Turbo thanks. I think we got to your first peg, meaning we were on the right path.
Tone, I've seen your photo report from August 2012 many times. Can you draw on pic 10 (Špičica) and pic 13 (Skutnik) the route of your ascent to Špičica and descent from Skutnik, like Dprapr drew the descent from Morež to Votli vrh for you.
Best regards!
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| lijaneja5. 06. 2017 20:57:33 |
Hi, Ivo!
I'd be lying if I said I remember the approach exactly, can't draw it either, hard nut (though I'd like to learn). Approach is a bit left of center and direct to the top, the thing surely doesn't exceed II. This is a very short, max 10-minute thing. Looks steep in the pic because it's viewed strongly from frog perspective.
As said, I was on Skutnik two years earlier, which I approached exactly from the south. Pic 13 shows its north face, which is irrelevant regarding the description. Distance and difficulty (and danger) is greater here than at Špičica, if more people are present, they must stay as close together as possible because of the stones in the grass.
This year I plan to go to those areas (I'd like to connect Griva with Zadnji Pelc), so we can visit at least one of these two.
Invited!
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| dprapr5. 06. 2017 22:53:10 |
I'll attach three pics with approximately drawn approach routes. To Skutnik from the Trentar side (2nd pic) I haven't gone, but I assume the approach is somewhere there. At least from the ridge above it looked that way.
The approach to Špičica itself (1st pic - borrowed from Tone) is steeper in the lower part, the ledge to the left is already more friendly.
On the ridge to Skutnik, you keep to the right side of the ridge. On descent, there is a chimney before the saddle (II), after the saddle grass ledges to which it's hard to find similar ones here. They look more demanding than they really are. You need a good feel for the easiest passage from one to the other. The drawn route is not necessarily the easiest variant.
Trentar approaches are something special, steep, rocky and grassy, spiced with snakes. Like night and day compared to Martuljek.
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| taubi46. 06. 2017 14:47:12 |
Big thanks for the nice sketches, hope I'll use them usefully. If I decide for Skutnik from the saddle, I'll surely descend south to prožje Razorca, probably ascend from there too. Tone, I'd let you lead on Špičica if you inform me of the date and I have time then.
Thanks again to all three.
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| raubšic7. 06. 2017 09:44:34 |
I don't know where you are going? We carry chamois from Skutnik and Špičica!
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| turbo7. 06. 2017 12:27:33 |
@raubšic
Regarding chamois ... does Lukež help you at all 
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| taubi47. 06. 2017 13:27:16 |
I believe if you hit it it falls right into your lap anyway
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| djimuzl17. 09. 2019 17:59:09 |
For the first of September I went from Bavšica through Dolič towards Vrh Osojnika. Original goal was Nizki vrh, but due to approaching storm I climbed only to the ridge between Špičica and Nizki vrh.
Path to Planina Bukovec is overgrown but well traceable, to first water already 20 minutes below the hut. Above the hut I left the marked path and followed a well-trodden trail. When I lost it after about ten minutes, I decided to test the navigation app for the first time. I successfully followed the ascending path through the forest for quite some time, until I realized there was a 20-meter difference between my current position and the trail. And indeed, the true trail I spotted 50 meters lower, terrain such that direct descent without rope was impossible. So I had to return along the forest ridge and start over… Good lesson for the first of September 
Later orientation no longer a problem, as the direction through Bukovska korita and Dolič to Vrh Osojnika is clear, although there is no real path. Korita wild, small gorge that defends visitors with nettles and various thorny greenery. Higher it widens to Dolič, still narrow but brighter valley under Pihavci, full of hard-to-pass scree where everything sounds very, very close - marmot calls and whistles of raubšic's chamois, even airplane engine sounds louder…
At Sedlo Vrh Osojnika the view opened to Loška stena, Pelci and Pihavci ridge spurs, through Dolič Špičica constantly monitored my ascent, the other side of the valley guarded by Veliki Jelenk and Skutnik. During the final climb to Osojnik cloudiness constantly increasing, hinting at weather worsening, forecast too. So instead of to Nizki vrh I went to nearer notch at foot of Špičica and climbed to ridge there. Had something to see - behind still sunlit Trent Pelc dark mass coming from gloomy Triglav. Wasn't there long, distant flash and thunder hurried me down to Bala.
From Osojnik descended well-traceable path which soon lost in rocky world. Once-marked path leads along edge of cirque above Bala and under ridge between Špičica and Pelci, to Prevala also possible by crossing under Zadnji Pelc to Prehodc and direct descent through gullies from there. Rain caught me before Prevala and washed good part of path through Bala, but nothing serious. While walking to starting point I dried off and already planning new visit to these wild, beautiful corners.
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| sAleska17. 09. 2019 19:20:58 |
It's nice to revive memories of the path hiked years ago. Just that it didn't wash me.
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| lijaneja17. 09. 2019 19:47:08 |
Ha, Marjan, I also 'suffered' quite a lot there. Once I got out with a rope, another time I was so angry and used the small water flow in the Bukovških gorges to climb up them (without backpack) and higher easily found the junction that leads from the hut on Planina Bukovec. Back (down) I went of course along the little path and at the key spot, where almost everyone turns right instead of left (viewed uphill), placed a large cairn, collected all stones from the nearby area.
Too bad you didn't climb at least to Špičica when you were so close, as the ascent is very easy.
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| djimuzl17. 09. 2019 20:20:32 |
Aha, now I see your picture of Špičica with the Draga route. I didn't plan it, and there was no time either, because I was in a hurry down from the ridge, later it was nicely "snowing" up there...
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