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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Rogljič / Pan di Zucherro 1984m

Rogljič / Pan di Zucherro 1984m

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turbo31. 07. 2011 18:31:59
Exactly as Igor wrote for Lepa Glava. Up to Brunner together and back from Brunner to Predel together. Our expedition, there were eight of us, climbed Rogljič, three via classic from behind, on slopes above Mrzla Voda valley. Five via gully from approach direction. Such massive visit to that pointed peak rarely happens. If at all. On the way back we eased descent on exposed and crumbly wall with rope rappels, safer and more fun. Wonderful tour, satisfied women and men too. Otherwise pathless, some cairns and nice II. in summit part. About coffee at Brunner and bottled liquids at Predel, no need to write how good they tasted.
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jaz31. 07. 2011 21:19:27
My first ascent on this cute little Rogljiček already has quite a beard, but we climbed it with my wife too. Pictures are a bit mixed. Regards!
View from the valley1
White brook2
notch of the White brook3
ledge4
up to the edge5
right upwards6
good grip7
further on8
and even upwards9
at the top10
Small marmot11
Swallows12
Viš, Nabojs13
nothing much14
a snippet15
we were on three, but two?16
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sherpa1. 08. 2011 07:50:35
jaz, but isn't on 13th pic, next to Nabojs on the right, central mountain something else than Viš?
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Jovan Cukut9. 06. 2015 20:19:58
For hikers who want to visit two beautiful, interesting and little-visited peaks above Beli potok.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/PanDiZuccheroRogljicInCimaPiccolaDellaScalaMalaLojtrca07062015



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Macesna10. 09. 2015 12:55:52
On first visit to mountains above Beli potok or Belimi vodami we visited this boldly pointed peak, little Matterhorn. But interesting – pointed when viewed from afar, but on it the summit is quite spacious and covered with scree.
To it you have to make an effort with hiking and climbing I. and II. grade. We ascended the summit via variant described in guidebooks: from marked path we turned to ledge encircling west wall of Rogljič, then from north side, above dark and severe Mrzlih vod valley steeply and crumbly up to notch and along ridge to summit. There are quite some traces of predecessors (cairns).
The middle one is Rogljič.1
Here we left the backpacks.2
View from the top into the depths.3
Below Visoka Bela špica and in it is the last snow. Front right is the pointed summit of Mala Lojtrica.4
Descent. You need to descend into the notch in the middle of the image.5
The wall above the scree is somewhat crumbly.6
View towards the bold towers of Visoka Bela špica.7
Down the scree.8
Scree slope9
Pleasant switchbacks of the marked trail near Brunner hut.10
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palček plezalček10. 09. 2015 17:48:04
Has anyone by chance climbed Bulfon-Perissutti route. Five, I think crux is 5+. What's the rock like? Thanks.
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coffee27. 10. 2022 19:22:16
Today Pan di Zucchero/Rogljič and Cima Piccola della Scala/Mala Lojtrca finally came up.

It was too hot, otherwise a nice autumn day. This showed already on the path, which was quite covered with leaves. Beli potok cheerfully murmured, I up to Rogljič. A bit gravelly, but quite impressive lone tooth despite lower height. Then I descended and went unmarked along the marked path towards Gorizia and from it turned somewhere at the height where the entry ledge starts. The ambience was quite nice, after the bend to the east slopes I somehow got to the upper grasses and from there to Lojtrca. There is an equipped belay. On the way down I followed cairns and got into some strange path variants. For sure it's still the easiest through the last gully just before the slope ends in the north wall (?). Anyway. When I stepped back on the marked path, I still had enough time for Krniško and Bela špica (and if I gritted my teeth also strength), but after that wandering in the descent I had enough climbing for today.
ZOB!1
Morning2
part of the mountain above Beli potok3
initial part towards Rogljič4
yes, it will be like that5
mhm6
Along the path7
The sharpest peak in the foreground on the left is Mala Lojtrca.8
Krniška Špica9
far far to the side10
characteristic ramp/ledge11
at the entry12
at the bend; here I'd advise traversing to the last horns and pines along them, there you reach the gully directly, which imo is easiest for ascent/descent13
Rogljič with characteristic ramp and cap of pines14
Lots of cairns15
Last hardest part, taken from the top16
Also from another perspective17
Lastovice with path around them18
Bela špica19
Hate those cairns20
Where will they take me21
Followed them anyway22
But it wasn't nice at all23
Part of ours24
A little more gurgling ...25
... at the end26
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