List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Rjavec 2568m

Rjavec 2568m

drago408. 07. 2012 13:08:01

If we look at Triglav from the southeast, it is almost a real three-headed peak, but the left pathless summit Rjavec is rarely visited, as is the right Mali Triglav.
Rjavec is also more remote as it is connected to the main peak only by a ridge passable for alpinists to the col.
I led a friend to it from the junction of the path between Planika and Dolič, unfortunately this path has almost 200m of nasty scree to the gully towards the summit, so we concluded that the more suitable access is from the Dolič - col path, because the scree is much shorter and with little ascent.

Rjavec 2568m on the path towards Planika

Rjavec 2568m the first are returning from Planika to Rudno polje

Rjavec 2568m Rjavec also shines towards Planika

Rjavec 2568m beginning of the looong scree

Rjavec 2568m a little further to the gully

Rjavec 2568m gully and last rocks to the summit

Rjavec 2568m on Triglav a procession, here we can be alone

Rjavec 2568m path from Rjavec towards the notch

Rjavec 2568m which is this long-legged beetle

Rjavec 2568m we've done Rjavec, now to Šmarjetna glava too

(+8)

funnyboy17. 08. 2020 20:54:08

So close to Triglav, yet so rarely visited places velik nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.com/2020/08/gori-doli-naokoli-po-manj-obljudenih.html

(+6)

Tal18. 08. 2020 18:07:10

Could someone maybe at least roughly describe access from Planika via 'easier route' (mentioned in link above) and compare difficulty with e.g. Dovški križ or Kukova špica

Tal18. 08. 2020 18:09:43

And also walking time for someone who walks as written on signs.

funnyboy18. 08. 2020 19:04:47

When I wrote about easier route I meant easier route from saddle below summit, not directly from Planika. From what I've seen it would be possible also from Planika direction to that saddle, but hard to give exact difficulty since I didn't go there.

Otherwise you can head to this summit from Planika in Dolič direction until around this massif, then right over scree to mentioned saddle and summit. That would be about 1.5 hours of moderate walking.

(+3)

Tal18. 08. 2020 20:54:35

Thanks.

ppegan19. 08. 2020 07:22:02

Primož, if I understand correctly, the easiest passage to Rjavec is from Triglav - Dolič direction, without climbing to Triglav col, but going below on scree? Roughly like the green arrow on the map shows? You mean the col below Rjavec, right?

(+1)

funnyboy19. 08. 2020 09:58:47

That's right velik nasmeh

At the junction (Triglav, Dolič, Plemenice) go on the unmarked little path that slightly descends under the walls until you see the gully on the left, then up scree to the saddle and right to the summit. The drawn route will be quite correct.

ppegan19. 08. 2020 10:06:52

Primož, thanks nasmeh

And as you say, this access isn't hard, just up that gully and that's it? Rjavec still awaits me too, maybe this year it'll be time. Anyway from your posts I get tour ideas too - Vrh Žlebičev is on my wishlist thanks to you mežikanje

(+2)

funnyboy19. 08. 2020 10:36:15

Access isn't hard, but ploughing through scree is tiring. From the col you can then choose where to go to the summit (several variants - I wrote some about it in the post). I reckon it'll go without big issues. Just visit it, then you can count people on Triglav from the top hehe jezik

Seems right to me that we give each other new ideas with posts nasmeh

one can discover a lot that way.

Since you mention Vrh Žlebičev - that's more demanding than Rjavec. But about that some other time velik nasmeh

(+3)

ppegan19. 08. 2020 12:49:13

Which way is the summit then? If I picture it right, the summit is to the right when coming from the col zmeden

I'll go there, just need to find the right time mežikanje

That path past Jolanda tempts me too, I checked it out last year when I was on Morbegni and Glava v Zaplanji, it was pretty logical where to go velik nasmeh

For Vrh Žlebičev I know it's more demanding, some II in climbing to the col or from it. Anyway that's it, go check and if not turn back, never risk unnecessarily nasmeh

(+1)

funnyboy19. 08. 2020 12:58:51

The summit is on the right, yeah. From the col to the ridge and over the short ridge to the summit. It's not 5 minutes from the col to the summit.

Past Jolanda there shouldn't be any trouble either, though I missed the cable myself, but apparently several passages are possible nasmeh

(+2)

ppegan19. 08. 2020 14:30:37

Primož, thanks really, once again nasmeh

And good luck.

(+1)

funnyboy19. 08. 2020 15:12:02

No problem velik nasmeh

Good luck to you too.

Heavy_bull22. 08. 2020 21:11:43

Today circular over Rjavec. From Vrata via Plemenice - hop to Glava v Zaplanji - Rjavec - Planika - Triglav - Kredarica - back via Prag to Vrata. A little addition to predecessors' descriptions regarding ascent and descent from Rjavec. A bit before entry to Triglav col I turned right and crossed scree close to walls all the way to gully for col below Rjavec and up the middle of scree-filled gully to col. From col turned right towards Rjavec summit, keeping direction somewhat left of ridge. On return from Rjavec at col turned right down towards Triglav kot and on to Planika. Descent towards Triglav kot needs to be done carefully due to nasty scree on numerous larger rock slabs that steeply drop towards Triglav kot. Adding a few pictures for better idea.

(+9)

ljubitelj gora27. 09. 2021 12:17:24

Yesterday from Krma to Triglav and towards Dolič, there over scree to Rjavec. Almost no path on scree, right under gully even used all 4 for a while. Just below summit need to climb maybe good I grade and short ridge to top. Returned down scree along Dolič-Planika path, and above cables, when path levels out cross pathless to Planika-Krma path.

(+2)

kolosej16. 08. 2024 19:05:43

I consider Rjavec the most neglected mountain among us given its reputation, as it occupies the left three-headed prong in the coat of arms, if Mali Triglav is on the right.
Predecessors have nicely described both approaches. I just add that the notch and the 5m slab under the summit ridge are not a walkover.
I attacked Rjavec from the Planika-Dolič path, on the scree I got exhausted, if I hadn't walked in the shade and morning coolness I don't know if I would have conquered it. The scree constantly changes its base, steps must be prudent so we don't get carried too much downhill. From Planika to the top I panted a good two hours, back I handled the scree in 20min with Rjavec express... Good luck!