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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt

Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt

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JusAvgustin28. 07. 2010 19:50:53
Today, Matej and I climbed to V. Altar. From Altar, we ascended the ridge on the left to Rokav notch, from Rokav notch on the right to High Rokav. From High Rokav, we abseiled 4x to Rokav glacier. From glacier to Bivouac II. From there to the car in Poldov Rovt for cold beer. Conditions on the route: approach to High Rokav from Altar is alpinism (rappelling, exposed, pathless, III degree climbing (slab before last gendarme), some orientation problems too, but enough cairns to help). Rokav glacier partially icy (anchors after each pitch on right side, snow soft, crampons don't hold as they should (recommend rappel from High Rokav to glacier entrance (least annoying))). Achievement took 7 rappels, one broken camera, other died from constantly dripping sweat. Card still OK. At home I'll post pics... Watch out! Extremely crumbly, III degree climbing in mountains, exposed! Orientation demanding! Achievement worth every drop of sweat... And 18 kg backpack wasn't so heavy when on ridge (rope, crampons, ice axe...). Tour pure 20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
juš&matej
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Morning above Vrati1
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Luknja peč, Rjavina2
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Path across Brinje3
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Gathered group4
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Towards the saddle between Oltar and Dovški križ5
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Fortresses appear V. Oltar, Rokavi6
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Ascent towards Grlo7
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt On the ridge before Grlo8
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Magnificent9
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Grlo 2425 m a.s.l.10
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Last chimney before the ridge of V. Oltar11
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Before the summit 2621 m a.s.l.12
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt The slab which most people climb to Oltar, unaware of the bypass on the right through the chimney to the ridge13
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt View from Oltar, Široka peč, Dovški križ...14
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Visoki Rokav, Škrlatica15
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Škrlatica, Jalovec, Mangart, Mojstrovke...16
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Velika Martuljška Ponca17
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Joy before the ridge traverse :)18
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Ridge between Oltar and Rokavi19
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Zgedalo is impassable, extraordinary friability, exposure20
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Traverse21
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt There are no words to describe this beauty22
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Abseil towards Rokavska škrbina23
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Roglji24
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Crowd at the foot of VMP25
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Traverse to the ledge26
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Ledge27
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Visoki Rokav 2646 m a.s.l.28
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt In the palm...29
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Julian Alps30
Poldov Rovt-Brinje-Grlo-V. Altar-Ridge-Notch-Rokavi-Bivouac II.-Poldov Rovt Indescribable31
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Kobra 128. 07. 2010 23:14:20
Hey!
You were observed from VMP nasmeh
Congrats guys!
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JusAvgustin29. 07. 2010 06:52:23
For the tour we spent exactly 13 hours (Poldov Rovt-Poldov Rovt). From start to V. Altar 4 hours, from V. Altar to High Rokav 3 hours. Descent to valley from Rokav to Bivouac II 2 hours. From bivouac to Poldov Rovt 1 hour. Rest for beautiful views and necessary rest. kobra1: you were also observed and we wondered if something was wrong.nasmeh
On Oltar1
On Rokav2
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Kobra 129. 07. 2010 10:52:23
Hi hi, nothing wrong, but really two "different" mountaineers turned around.
True, we had 12-year-old youth in care, so extra caution was not amissnasmeh.
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JusAvgustin29. 07. 2010 11:07:18
Yes, chimney is awkward yes and not so little. We went like chamois up the ledges and gendarmes. Super tour, feeling indescribable!nasmeh
Široka peč, Dovški križ1
Climbing...2
In the wall of Rokavi3
A little more adrenaline4
path on V. Rokav :D5
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lijaneja26. 04. 2012 19:43:17
For Avgustin. On ZS I don't know how to attach picture.
1
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ljubitelj gora11. 06. 2017 17:29:28
Via Brinje to Šplevta via the south ridge, then the Rokav glacier and to Middle Rokav.
up over Brinje1
Šplevta from behind Rokavski ozebnik2
Rokavski glacier3
at the top of Rokavski glacier I equip myself with harness, rope and other gear4
Middle Rokav, Škrlatica behind5
Visoki Rokav is one grade harder6
Triglav7
Dovški križ8
after 1 hour lying I slowly descend to Vrata valley.9
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janezs7313. 10. 2019 19:42:12
On Friday to bivouac II, then on Saturday morning (i.e., at 4 a.m.) to the Altar, where I watched a unique sunrise. Then along the ridge towards V. Rokav – to the notch between the Altar and V. Rokav via the south slope (cairns lead along beautiful but scree-covered ledges) – rappelling is not needed in this case. Caution is, of course, not amiss. Before the slab in the north face of Rokav there is too much frozen snow to push up without gear (or belay), so I turned back towards the Altar. Weather and tour pure poetry. For the soul!

Snow in north faces above 2550 m will stay, hard and frozen.
Beautiful autumn on Poldov rovt1
as always - evening before dvojko with the best possible view2
Mysterious view of Očak and the north face3
Surprisingly only three at the bivouac, despite the upcoming weekend4
Morning insanely beautiful - look east, 1h before sunrise from 2530 m altitude5
Also view of Triglav6
And one panorama approx 0.5h before sunrise, a bit higher7
Then panorama 8 min before sunrise8
Self-portrait on Oltar 2 min after sunrise.9
Traversing the southern slopes of Oltar towards the notch between Oltar and V. Rokav.10
In the northern wall of V. Rokav, where I turned back... snow clearly visible in the gully under the slab (hardest part)... without gear or protection too risky.11
(+12)like
dleskovec13. 10. 2019 20:13:42
It's nice and smart, "janez", to hike in the mountains with open eyes and a clear head; only like that further on. And thanks for the wonderful shots!!
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janezs7317. 10. 2019 06:59:01
thanks dleskovec.
Forgot to write that the summit log at the Altar is full - if someone knows who takes care of it, please pass on the info...
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Filip_Culjak17. 10. 2019 10:29:35
Janez, what is the snow condition in the Rokav glacier? Thanks for the answer.
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Ornitolog17. 10. 2019 13:56:36
Hi, RK couloir was mostly covered with snow on Saturday, but it is completely frozen. It was rumbling in the couloir like on the front, most fell from High Rokav. Falling rocks then rolled on the ice in the couloir like on a slide, probably all the way to the exit. Ascent up the couloir, at least that day, would be extremely risky if not suicidal... Approach from Kotel is better and less risky to get hit on the head.

Cheers
1
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Filip_Culjak17. 10. 2019 14:37:29
Ornitolog, thanks a lot for the advice.
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janezs7317. 10. 2019 16:38:43
As Ornitolog already wrote - there's snow in the couloir - which applies to all north sides above 2550 m... snow is compacted and frozen, because snow fell on wet rock then froze on top (doesn't melt even at 12°C due to crust)... snow depth isn't great, so tools aren't very useful yet, but without them it's impossible... in the couloir, where there's scree below, it's hopeless...

I would in any case go back to Oltar, even if I reached the top of Rokav (and wouldn't descend the couloir) - precisely because of conditions and flying projectiles.
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lijaneja17. 10. 2019 19:06:57
There is no more snow in the Rokavski couloir.
17. 10. '19 at 13:11.1
(+1)like
Filip_Culjak18. 10. 2019 06:18:28
Thanks, lijaneja, for the current info.
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