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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / North Face of Triglav

North Face of Triglav

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taubi424. 07. 2019 11:11:48
On Saturday we climbed the Short German Route. Friend Iztok, alpinist and instructor of mountain guides, free, Janko and I with help of technical aids. I, as second in the team, in the last meter of the route had no other solution than to pull myself up with the help of the placed gear. Hope I expressed it right. Since I'm not an alpinist, I decided to post the article on the Julijske Alpe forum rather than on the Alpinistični vzponi forum.
For me the difference between Short German and Slovenian is really big. Slovenian I'd mark as very, very demanding pathless terrain where there are three, four climbing details (II-III), where we non-alpinists always belay. Orientationally it seems more demanding to me than the German, which is really climbing, as difficulty up to III stretches practically through the whole route. Exception is only the exit which is IV-.
In the route there were two teams of three, two classic teams and one soloist my age. He was supposed to be a Mountain Guide, but Iztok didn't know the name. When I watched the teams ahead in the wall, doubt in my climbing abilities overcame me. Bluntly, my pants were shaking a bit. Surprisingly everything was relatively easy after. Still, let's be clear: Hikers of my category can afford such a route only in a team with a Mountain Guide or experienced alpinist. Anything else is irresponsible.
For the whole route we used 7 hours, with approach and descent past Stanic and for Cmir in Vrata 12 hours. In the route in German gully above German tower there's still a bit of snow, which can be bypassed. We walked on it only on Triglav ledges towards Stanic.
Janko claimed that at his 60s this is the peak of his mountaineering, in me still smolders the desire to one day from the top of German climb directly to Triglav summit. Let's be surprised.
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John25. 07. 2019 09:52:54
Hello #taubi4#,

can you please write some more about the Slovenian route in the north Triglav face. For some time I have really wanted to "conquer" the north face via the Slovenian. I'm a mountaineer, the toughest ferratas in our mountains pose no problem for me, but the Slovenian in the north wall is a whole different story... most say.
When the idea of the Slovenian route occurred to me, I first read a lot of articles on the internet and other literature... and based on all that I read and saw, I'm in a dilemma. That it's very demanding orientationally is a fact. The "climbing" difficulty here has really different opinions... some tackle the route without rope or belay, others claim no wall without a guide who belays the critical parts etc. In short, I'm interested in your opinion regarding what's written or your more detailed experience that could benefit me. Thanks and good luck!
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Climber9125. 07. 2019 10:15:56
1. ferrata has nothing to do with wall climbing.
2. don't let low route grade mislead you. Orientationally demanding, it's III.. If not stray into harder.

Though low grade and walking in between.. Not just pathless.

Well.. Unless V soloing no issue for you. Then no worry if stray. But per question, probably not so.
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John25. 07. 2019 10:30:18
Dear #Climber91#, if you read my post carefully once again, you'll probably understand that I do not equate the Slovenian with any via ferrata.
By writing that via ferratas don't cause me problems, I wanted to say that moving in rocks and walls is not completely foreign to me... and yes, I am aware that the Slovenian route in the Wall is real climbing pleasure. That's why my question or desire for information, experiences etc.
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Climber9125. 07. 2019 14:14:10
Dear John.

You had the same questions 1 year ago. I don't know what you want to hear.. They told you the same as now, hire a guide, if the desire is so great, money won't hurt. In the wall it's not just moving. You need to know something else if problems arise.
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John25. 07. 2019 17:19:18
Ok. So where's the problem Climber91? I'm just asking for experiences, gathering info, maybe I'll do it in another year or not anymore and based on the tone in your posts, I assume it bothers or annoys you somehow. I suggest you simply ignore.mežikanje In short, I want to hear only first-hand experiences. Good luck!
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Climber9125. 07. 2019 17:40:39
I just don't get you. Why gathering info for 1 year? You have description, sketch in Mihelič, on web there are descriptions... If you want without guide, don't go completely alone. Take some alpine gear.. For safety, for possible abseil? Don't know what else to say here.. Either guide, or a buddy who has been takes you, or in the way described above.
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stargojzar25. 07. 2019 17:47:12
Climber, if you already want info I'll tell you my experiences from the route: When I climbed as first in the team I got stuck in chimneys (III). In one narrow one with backpack I got jammed and it could have ended badly if another team hadn't thrown rope from above. If there's still snow in Slovenian gully, recommend ice axe.
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John25. 07. 2019 17:59:48
Well any info never hurts.
To avoid misunderstanding, I didn't start this debate to decide easier how to the Wall. I was decided on that very soon, no worries nasmeh But I'm interested in others' experiences, as said several times. If it's weird, annoying, superfluous... so be it.mežikanjenasmeh
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ljubitelj gora25. 07. 2019 21:07:30
I'll attach some last year's photos, a bit for consideration, so no one gets off route.
Already at the entry there is II degree, above it we went far left to the larches, some directly.1
Above the larches, up there towards the peak.2
White slabs, three climbing.3
Towards Bučarjeva stena and up the gully.4
in the gully5
Gully6
And up it.7
Towards the window (one can see it, left across slabs up and slightly right to8
Frelihovo polico, climbed it 3x the same day.9
Exit max. careful.10
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redbull25. 07. 2019 22:25:08
Interesting read
If you haven't studied the route, or if you don't have someone who's already been on the Slovenian, then better not go. For me personally the route is easier in winter time than in summer. It's a big difference. Above Slovenian gully you have that descent, which in winter you just glance back and you're already at the top of Prevc exit.
Good luck
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John26. 07. 2019 06:28:08
Yeah, that's it, #mountainslover. This is a proper post (with pics) nasmeh.
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jure197726. 07. 2019 07:58:50
John, maybe my view. Before I started scrambling ridges and (easier) climbing, I had really lots of experience with secured climbing paths. Slovenian route technically really is not hard, but for first time absolutely recommend guide. Totally different climbing wall with no cables or pegs, just rock, no marks. With guide and roped safe and pure pleasure. Good luck!
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dprapr26. 07. 2019 08:34:12
John, if you want to climb routes, best is alpinism course. Everything else is of one-time significance, without lasting value.
And to Slovenian don't go without alpinism knowledge if no escort.
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jani bele26. 07. 2019 08:49:07
In the North Triglav Face there are the most rescues in the Slovenian Route. So...
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sAleska26. 07. 2019 15:16:01
The first time I went with friends - mountain guides (Frelih), then every year solo (Prevc). I generally have no orientation problems, so this scrambling is a pleasure for me.
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JusAvgustin26. 07. 2019 18:49:11
Whoever underestimated the Old Lady got burned. It is really the technically easiest, but orientation-wise far from it. Stay safe in the mountains.
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