| triglavski28. 07. 2009 18:36:45 |
We had been eyeing the mountain for a few years, no "marked" path on the map leads to it. We ascended on Sunday 26.7.09. We started in the small hamlet Culzei in Pesarina valley, to Passo Siera and the namesake pasture we walked on a nice forest road closed to public traffic. There we met an Italian couple well-read about the mountain but not yet to the summit. We walked together to the fork of "normal" routes, then split; we took the right-hand variant towards Piccola Siera, Italians left. Below the pronounced gully there was still an extensive snowfield, which we crossed, then entered the shady gully. Right at the start an annoying passage eased by fixed rope. Immediately good I climbing starts. Higher up we met three descending. They said there's a hard spot higher they didn't dare free climb. Of course we didn't turn back either and climbed to it. Good II for about 25m we climbed and continued in the varied gully to the top, encountering at least 3-4 equipped belay stations for descent or belaying. We reached the summit almost simultaneously with the Italians. Excellent view, so no problem spending a good hour up there; meanwhile those we met below arrived too. Hard-to-access mountain but 7 of us up there, very very few log entries. Unbelievably one had seen me somewhere but couldn't remember where, my companion met the other three three years ago on Cima Palombina, parted from summit almost like acquaintances. We down the "normal", supposed somewhat easier than ours up, but belayed with rope at three spots and this gully no walkover either, no anchors, just at one very awkward spot loose rope end hangs. Down at pasture met the three again, chatted a bit more, then we to Val Pesarina, others to Cimo Sappado, Italians to De Gasperi hut under Creton di Culzei. Evening at Casera Razzo promised nice next day.
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