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| redbull6. 08. 2018 08:18:31 |
You stick to the ridge, grassy base, all the way to the end of Zabuš. If I repeated this to Zabuš now I wouldn't do it, better descend earlier and cross lower and reach the marked path that comes from Pecol. Descent from Zabuš on those grasses, rocks is really almost indescribably difficult. I will have it written in the blog in a day or so, otherwise there's enough written about Mihelič
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| taubi48. 08. 2018 11:45:40 |
On the left side of Pipan ladder probably means looking from above.
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| AI14. 09. 2021 11:47:09 |
Since it's not too late for this tour, here's a picture of Amalia's condition three days ago.
Below is dry, unlike Kugy where there's really a lot of snow. Above there are two snowfields, the lower one might be more problematic than the upper.
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| 2061alessio14. 09. 2021 15:42:17 |
I got news that bivakSuringar is now renovated, via Amalia is still officially closed because of that part in picture 29 (redbull above).
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| redbull14. 09. 2021 18:06:59 |
How should they fix that part on my 29th picture Alessio?
In what way?
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| 2061alessio17. 09. 2021 00:11:56 |
I refer your question to CAI SAF UDINE because they maintain this path and have officially closed it.
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| Starko Zel15. 09. 2023 00:41:12 |
Did we have the same path, except for the descent from the summit?
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| lojze182515. 09. 2023 19:59:27 |
Thanks redbul & palček plezalček, it really was a mega tour.
Starko_zel yeah probably we met a few times on the path, last on the summit. We chose a little detour for the return 
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| Robert Dolenec16. 09. 2023 12:35:45 |
Congratulations to both.
Years pass, memories remain. A tour that imprints deep into the soul.
To meet someone else on this tour is a great rarity, or very unusual ; even ibex are only in the upper part.
As a curiosity, I add a romantic description of the path - quote from Mašer guide.
In the Julian Alps, the west wall of Montaž is an unrivaled notion of mightiness and mountain grandeur!
The view of the highest wall in mountaineering literally crushes you. Deep gullies, vertical sharp pillars, narrow ledges above huge abysses, wild couloirs fill you with awe and reverence, yet irresistibly invite you into their rocky embrace.
Difficulty: Via Dogna is infinitely beautiful and infinitely long tour! Only a top-skilled and fit mountaineer can tackle it. Already in the lower part there are intermediate pitches of II degree.
The gray wall means 300 meters of II-grade climbing, sometimes even noticeably more.
There are almost no markings except at the very beginning of the path, orientation is extremely complicated.
Via Dogna is a magnificent tour, a great experience that ennobles the spirit and makes life nobler and richer (all quoted from Mašer guide).
Really magnificent tour in quality rock, on narrow exposed ledges. The wall is respectfully vertical and precipitous in places for climbing without protection. Nature is wild in the true sense of the word.
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| janezs738. 10. 2023 17:00:24 |
Yesterday my colleague and I took advantage of the exceptional weather and treated ourselves to Montaž from Dunja. A real treat of the season!
In the lower part you follow the logic of the partially vegetated or partially scree-filled ledge between the walls of the western Montaž pillars and the Clapadorio gorge as long as it goes. At that point it's not completely obvious to go left, because it seems you'll run into the black wall, but generally towards it, around it and above it the red dots help. Then orientation is trivial again to the "bivouac" Muschi, where the tour gets more serious.
We chose the left white approach for the transition to the ramp, because with poles on the backpack it seemed too awkward to push through the pre-climb on the right - directly from the bivouac. On the left side there are some nice hidden holds, so it goes without problems.
Each of us climbed the ramp differently, you can go practically anywhere you want to the exit. But perhaps it's not unimportant info that the far left passages lead to the headwall, from which to Belvedere only by rappelling. So ideally to the right, but not too far right. From the grassy ledge before the ramp exit there are at least 4 diagonal chimneys. I chose the second from the right, along which we reached Belvedere with one small detour even without protection. The section is quite open, but nowhere exceeds III grade.
From Belvedere we didn't go towards the new red dot along the grass to the left, because it's harder later, but directly up - because it's really obvious (as Dejan hinted to me - thanks for the info!), that it's easier there later. Then along the right side of the chimney to the left and through the chimney to easier terrain higher up.
From there again almost anywhere to Amalia, along it to Suringar and further through Findeneg's glacier to the top.
Solitude, extremely subtle passages, views beautiful to go mad, make this tour unforgettable. To do the tour in reasonable time, you need to climb independently and relaxed up to III grade. Otherwise things can drag on quickly.
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| janezs7321. 09. 2025 17:11:21 |
On Saturday it was the day for this beauty on the far west of the Julians. After two years this time alone in this immense wilderness. When climbing the ramp I gladly treated myself to some harder passages, since the summit was not planned - the path itself was the goal.
With the car in Dunja the return was of course obligatory by descent via Amalia and crossing back to Dunja.
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