Triglav
17. 7. - 19. 7. 2018
Shall we go or not. Oh, what a strange forecast! What if there's snow? Better not to bang our heads against the wall. Let's go mid-August instead... such and similar thoughts surrounded us those days before departure. On Saturday at 8am we met at Bučkot. Decision made. LET'S GO! Neva called Ivo a few more times, Tanja made the packing list, I borrowed two backpacks, Neva got three helmets from Iglu store in KP.
Hikers: Guide Ivo and his wife Adrijana, her friend Vida with daughter Blažka and us four tough girls: Tanja, Neva, Anja and Irena
Day 1
Lucija – Planina Blato – Vodnik Hut
Start from Lucija at 5am. Meeting point Radovljica gas station for coffee. Arrival at start of hike at 9am. Left Anja's car at lower Bohinj parking, Ivo drove us to 1200m where we shouldered our mighty 8-9kg backpacks and bit into the long-desired challenge. Triglav sent sun and great company, so steps were lighter, goal not so distant. Path led past, over, through, around... fallen trees... in short, looked like Martin Krpan wrestled Brdavs for three days. Soon we felt Ivo's passion for off-trail hiking. Pristine nature greeted us and we experienced it with all senses (Ouch this backpack is heavy!).
We stopped at first viewpoint and happily dumped our load. Heart sang more when at 11am we reached Planina Krstenica, reminiscent of part of Velika Planina. What a view of valley and hills! At alpine huts kids chopping wood and distant sound of grazing cows. Here we refueled and headed to Vodnik Hut. Of course met very few people on way (off-trail ya know). Walked through Planina Jezerce bursting with colorful flowers, lazy lady cows strolling. Vida taught us there's lots of Plahtnica aka Mountain Resica, good for menstrual issues.
Continued on slightly steeper off-trail to Mišelski Pass (did Blažka see a snake only she knows, brrr... anyway she had blisters already). Gaze to Adam and Eva, two hills as Ivo explained. At Mišelski Pass finally saw hut on other side. If only zip line existed!
First descend, saw chamois, special flowers: golden apple or mountain lily. Path through small field sloping to Veliko Polje and finally ended our first-day seven-hour hike at 4pm at Vodnik Hut (Ivo's prediction: four hours day 1!!)
Surprised by shower option – 4 min for 4 euros! Wow luxury. Wasn't there 10 years ago. Of course big crowd. Then hut warden took center stage. Let's call him Tonček, real character. First grumpy, then self-humorously funny, hard to describe. Even winter room assigned wasn't great, though used to shared beds. Dampness and chill unpleasant. Anja skeptical how to spend night with just two girls, lobbied Tonček for dining room sleep. Tonček offered super cheap half-board, we skeptical if scammed. True Highlander! After eating and cleaning up, good mood rose, even Tonček caught our relaxation. Tanja charmed him most. "Can you sell us 3 alpine cards for 6 euros?" Actually one was 3.50. Finally 50 cents discount! Stories, teasing, laughter long after. Next day asking for disinfectant for Blažka's huge blisters, Tonček asks who has blisters. If the one on tongue, hi hi. Meant Tanja.
Tanja's boots started falling apart.
Day 2
Vodnik Hut – Planika Hut – Triglav – Dolič Hut – Hribarice – Seven Lakes Hut (already a lot just writing it)
After quiet night (some snoring, some farting...) woke at 6am, watched sunrise – sunny Triglav greeting us. After breakfast (fought for it 30min early – 6:30) started day 2 hike at 7:30. As Tonček said: "That's no piece of cake!"... luckily didn't know what awaited. Soon in first chimney. Whoop! Now serious. Marmot by path, edelweiss (thanks Vida for showing). Ivo invented ice axe snow adventure. Photo shoot endless.
Yeah, looking back... nice because no rush, time for flowers, animals, sillies etc. Not sure if in Ivo's plan, but adapted perfectly, lined us up right time. Had control. But Tanja and I lagged chatting almost lost... hi hi. Before Planika saw chamois. There "battle break", fueled energy bars drinks, donned helmets. Boss Ivo lined us, weeee obeyed.
Ivo's motto got us moving: Ready for battle! How quick we climbed hearing "order".
Secured Neva (just in case) rock climb started. Happy for pegs cables, when none... ouch! Some quieted, some talked more, some fought breath (me). Weather sunny windy. About 6-8°C. Started short sleeves, then windbreakers.
At 12:05 summited! Indescribable. Top full "photo party chicks". We outshone them. Neva borrowed Slovenian flag, unforgettable shots. Sparkling eyes smiles big thrill felt. Then picnic (bread pate) fire baptism three newbies. Ivo went wild, butts jumping. Right he offered his, first time on Triglav with mustache. Neva went wild this time.
After hour started descent to Dolič. Started nice, then slower. Ivo useful tips again. Packs fear (exposure) big obstacles. Last cables airy. Silence anxious for solid ground. Encouraged each other... all did great. Speaking of us four... Vida Blažka real chamois girls, Adrijana needless say. At scree saw ibex. Relief feet on scree. Celebrate! Soon noticed my boots disintegrating, sole opening. Sign Seven Lakes 4h45m SHOCK. Me dead already. Reached Dolič fast, faster than sign. Eyes burning... bad. Accelerated fatigue. Neva and I would sleep at Dolič. Doping – Izostar, coffee, bars... what diarrhea, laughed, shouldered packs headed Seven Lakes. First Anja and I ass-planted snow patch (many on path). Hribarice dragged, Ivo taped boot with silver tape. Reached MOON as I named Hribarice top. Ivo's two more hours? No. Which did? Then surprise: big ibex by rock unmoving. Licking salt? Unusual didn't flinch as approached photo. Above group pals gracefully posed on ridge. Beautiful.
Ivo Blažka sped to hut, Vida herbs, others nature enjoy, my eyes burning more. Finally big lake view – kidney. Vida Adrijana sped, our agony self-battle started. Not alone but whole path overcoming rock efforts too much. Optimism gone. Just stepping... right left... scanning for hut nowhere. Smelled wonderful carnations, chamois close, black beetle, lazarje and frog. No marmots (only Ivo Blažka lots). Dusk falling, blueberries... pretty path! Would experience differently less tired. Suddenly Ivo meets us. Noticed worried eyes. Took my pack... relief. Hut still dragged. Goes ahead reserve jota we crave. Just before hard night- after 9pm hut Vida's apero. Ivo proudly all sheep home. Jota perfect! Fell beds hard sleep. Energy drinks doping worked. Giggling farting moaning paranoid hallucinations.
Day 3
Seven Lakes Hut – Planina Blato
Morning up as wanted, ate, Anja taped both my blisters, Blažka hers, headed valley. Pretty sun lit lakes nature. Soon surprise: ascent scree cables pegs. Pass stop: most relaxed change lighter clothes, Ivo Vida quick nearby peak (dunno name). Over pass "walk" beautiful nature. Silence... occasional hiker.
To Dedno Polje, Planina Jezero ate lunch/strudel. After 4-5h (not sure) to car. Then final refresh drink hot valley relaxed Bohinj lake swim.
Said goodbyes went ways. Us girls real kremšnita on Bled, congratulated ended wonderful adventure. Added battle plan next year.
Not Red Bull... Triglav gives wings! Flew days. Ivo's praise stroked, told Neva we tough babes satisfied. And us with you Ivo. Thanks Ivo Adrijana Vida Blažka all... Big thanks all.
Report by Irena Susman