Mala Lojtrica (Little Scala Peak)
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| triglavski13. 07. 2009 20:43:54 |
We started at the parking lot in Jezerska Valley at the outflow of Beli Potok. The first warmer day was not particularly noticeable while walking through the pleasant forest. The Saškega Kralja Hut is half renovated and locked, the clearing where it stands is panoramic and sunny. We continued to the stream bed, which is somewhat eroded by snow avalanches; the brush at the beginning of the continuation also pushes quite onto the path, but it is passable. Higher up we left the marked path leading to Gorizia Bivouacs and turned right onto a barely visible trail that takes us under the south walls of Mala Lojtrica or to the entry onto the sloping ledge up which we climb to the east side of the mountain. We follow the slings and look for the best passages, sometimes around grade I, we reach a small saddle from which there is a deep view down into the Mrzla Voda Valley, followed by a few meters of easier climbing, then in the final summit part the wall stands quite vertically. Marjeta ties into the rope and climbs to the top, I soon join her. There is not much space up there, as it is one of the sharpest peaks in the Julian Alps. On the way back down we carefully belay using the anchor at the top, which serves climbers for abseil descent. There followed easy climbing back down to the entry point on the ledge, where we take time for rest and observing the vast panorama. The descent to Jezerska Valley along the murmur of Beli Potok is also very pleasant, even more so lounging by the Rabeljsko Lake.
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| rozka22. 05. 2011 19:54:12 |
In the morning I met the others in Jezerska Valley, precisely at the outflow of Beli Potok, continuing towards Koča Brunner and along the path to Bivak Gorizia, but we left the path earlier via an unmarked path turning right to ascend Mala Lojtrica. Here and there we strayed , but it was fun searching for the best and most importantly correct passages. The path to the summit saddle is not demanding, but the last ascent (II) was spiced up by climbing over the precipice wall, as the gully for the best passage was full of holes and snow. The summit was a real surprise, so narrow that we stood like a herd next to each other . There followed a safe descent back to Koča Brunner, where one subgroup decided to descend to the valley, while the rest of us climbed up to the neighboring Lepa Glava...
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| Jany23. 05. 2011 08:15:13 |
Interesting. Nice. Unmarked paths and pathless terrain are anyway the best. Areas less known to me, which I still need to "hike".
You didn't have major problems with snow, it seems!
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| Janez Seliškar9. 06. 2014 10:41:56 |
In the Beli Potok Valley above the tree line there is still quite some snow. At Bivak Gorizia it is still real winter. On the normal approach path there is a snowfield to the ledge entry and another (1) snowfield below the ridge.
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| gvodopivec10. 07. 2014 13:13:06 |
Hello,
does anyone know the conditions in the valley to Bivak Gorizia and further over the pass to Koča Corsi? Thanks
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| sla10. 07. 2014 13:57:39 |
About 10 days ago - up to the bivouac Gorica there are some short snow patches, not worth mentioning. To the col there is a snow field, which I crossed in low boots. Towards Corsi I saw more snow patches (predecessor descended with crampons, I turned to the Centenary Path, which is unproblematic - dry). Due to the cool-downs, the upper part of the col could be problematic (from one or the other side), the rest is not.
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| miri10. 07. 2014 14:20:16 |
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| Macesna9. 11. 2015 22:40:07 |
In the mountains above Beli Potok there were quite a few people yesterday. For this time's goal we chose the normal approach to Mala Lojtrica (2099 m). Under its south wall we left the marked path towards the Gorizia bivouacs, crossed the nasty sandy scree and climbed up the well-visible ledge leading to the east slopes. The ledge gets narrower over time, the trail on it more modest. At the belay spot you have to turn into the scree steeply upwards and look for the easiest passages. There are several belay spots, also variants only partially marked with slings. We managed to find the most difficult and most impossible variants on ascent and descent. They end at the grassy saddle under the summit blade-cleaver. Follows climbing onto it (about 12 m, II), which despite steepness is not difficult at all, as the rock is excellent, with "cups" in it. The summit is extremely interesting, space is ascetically little, views are super, like from a balcony.
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| lynx20. 08. 2016 22:26:58 |
No more snow. Belays and slings have survived, to the first ledge below the summit also possible with short and narrow traverse towards the connecting ridge to the big sister and straight up (shorter; obvious, sling).
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