La Sportiva Trango Prime vs. Scarpa Omega
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| klm26. 11. 2010 17:04:20 |
for serious winter alpine tours, here, in Central Alps or even Himalayas, then I'd prefer over Trango prime either La Sportiva Batura or Spantik. Both extremely warm, especially the latter, plus despite looking "stumpy", my Kamnik alpine buddies assure that it allows easy smearing even M7/M8; and it's light too. Similar with Batura. And no need for gaiters. On the other hand Trango prime inside lined with Primaloft - synthetic leather. You can sweat in it. Not leather outside, but synthetic leather (Lorica) and Cordura. Extremely technical boot, mainly for ice climbing, less for longer ascents. As for Scarpa Omega. Top boot, the rand is too wide for many, but time has passed it a bit. The mentioned Kamnik guys used it until they switched to Spantik. So Omega is history.
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| jedriličar26. 11. 2010 17:07:47 |
Here, briefly, maybe helps you decide. I've had Trango EVO S gtx model for about 2 years, very similar to this one you want to buy. More than satisfied with it.
I use it in all conditions, on snow, wet and dry. Never got wet yet, doesn't tire my foot on long walks like e.g. the alpinin gojzerica model I also use, better feel on scree (talus), and excellent for vias ferratas and even climbed some easier alpine routes with it. Overall, more than satisfied. And remembering I paid 160 EUR on some sale ....
And yes, very important. No maintenance needed, just wipe with damp cloth and store in closet.
Hope I helped a bit ...
LP
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| marco26. 11. 2010 18:53:43 |
Briefly:
Trango has narrow last, Omega medium wide;
Trango breathes better than Omega, but Omega warmer...hard to compare classic winter boot with plastic...LP and good luck
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| JusAvgustin26. 11. 2010 19:19:28 |
problem is only the weight, because currently I'm still using La Sportiva Karakorum Pro GTX and super satisfied with them, true they are quite heavy (pair 2100g) that's too much for icefalls and serious routes. In vertical every gram counts they are very warm too. I use them all 4 seasons, even climbed with them. Not super precise. , yeah that's it: plastic, from some I hear all possible praises, others praise Trango Prime. No problem with boot wear, but sole wear (especially teeth for auto crampons). This Scarpa reminds me of pancar, while Trango looks somehow more comfortable and probably more precise too... Trango Evo GTX not for autos, but I won't switch from auto crampons anymore. What klm wrote is already too technical boot for me, don't need that I need boot for winter (winter conditions), mainly light, warm and precise, which probably won't see scree. Spantik costs 450 euros, while Omega 250 and Trango Prime 300, that's a difference... thanks all for advice, though now even more undecided.
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| klm26. 11. 2010 19:26:48 |
Look Juš, forget the Omega, for what you wrote, i.e. winter mountaineering, Trango Prime will be an excellent choice, both in terms of weight and technically. You just have to try it, I think the last isn't identical to Karakorum. Try it, and you'll see, you'll have made the right decision!
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| JusAvgustin26. 11. 2010 19:30:54 |
and you would just send me to the Himalayas? most likely I'll first check out and try both models, the one that "fits well" will get a new owner... can you imagine me showing up with a Spantik or Batura on our local hills?
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| viharnik26. 11. 2010 19:53:06 |
Geolog, try something else from Scarpa, which for me is still the benchmark boot, compared to La Sportiva advocates. It has the best worked out sole and also the upper part of the boot mold or the boot itself gives top comfort to the foot. Asolo are good too. It all depends on foot feel, walking stride, lacing-grip, heat performance, front sole-climbing, crampons. Prices are about the same. I still go with Scarpa Omega-plastic, since '98.
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| Macesna26. 11. 2010 20:05:38 |
I'm very satisfied with another La Sportiva model - Nepal Extreme:
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=1&cod3=266&Language=EN
The men's model is yellow (it's on the link, below). It's a very precise boot. It suited me well too, because I have a narrow foot with low instep. When I tried different boots, there seemed quite a big difference between this type and Nepal Evo Gtx, which you can get much easier (e.g. Iglu sport) and which is supposedly just a better insulated upgrade from Nepal Extreme. I don't think so - Nepal Evo Gtx seemed much less precise to me, more like a boat.
True though, these boots aren't exactly light.
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| aljazek3. 12. 2010 12:13:41 |
For me La Sportiva Nepal Extreme fitted best, because they are very comfortable, not too soft nor too stiff, and crampons fit like poured on (Grivel G14 COM). On Jan 4th they were discounted from 310€ to 217€, probably something similar this year.
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| aljazek3. 12. 2010 12:30:07 |
Well, also a great choice. If you can, wait for discounts, it really makes a difference :-)
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| JusAvgustin3. 12. 2010 12:34:40 |
definitely, instead of 375 euros, 300 euros. if I can... I have to
if someone is looking for a top 4-season boot I strongly recommend (recent experiences) La Sportiva Karakorum Pro GTX... I've hiked/climbed/scaled everything possible with them
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