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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Kukova špica and Škrnatarica

Kukova špica and Škrnatarica

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JusAvgustin10. 06. 2015 15:33:53
Are you asking about the ridge?
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janezs7310. 06. 2015 16:04:29
Dejan, in 1994 I walked this ridge with my cousin. Since I don't have pictures from then, I'll refer to the above-mentioned Jovan's photos, of course you have to consider that in my memory due to the long period something might be wrong.
From Vrtaški Sleme we needed a whole 10 h just to Jovan's photo no. 37, mainly because of the complete friability we weren't psychologically prepared for back then. First we went on a very similar route as Jovan up to around photo no. 22, from there (somewhere, I don't remember exactly anymore, but back then it seemed the only logical) along a poorly expressed ledge far to the right under Vrh nad Mužici (on the northern slope), when the ledge disappeared we first followed a distinct gully about 50 m up, then crossed to the right over one ridge, then very steeply up the adjacent insanely friable gully (in which only one peg was grabbed in the middle) up to the saddle where we arrived on the J-side just a few dozen meters east of the spot shown in photo no. 36. There we realized we were substantially too slow and first bivouacked, then the next day descended to Vrata via the thresholds (first to PP).

Climbing guidebooks say this ridge should be crossed in good 2h, but of course with appropriate experience which wasn't abundant back then nasmeh, today I might do it in about 5h, but the main and only problem is still the inconceivable friability. Safe journey!
(+3)like
veljo21. 02. 2017 13:39:43
19.02 on Saturday to Škrnatarica along the eastern gully. Nice ski descent from saddle Čez Gulce to PP.


More pictures
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redbull24. 07. 2017 10:29:47
22.07.17
Kukova Špica. From it we climbed further to Škrnatarica. No more snow in the gully, so a bit more scrambling needed. Went further to Dovški Križ, climbed also to Veliki Oltar. View towards Rokavski glacier really nice, so went to start of snow. Snow very hard and lots of chimney climbing too if you want to reach glacier top. No gear, especially mandatory helmet, no business here. Express scree descent then to Vrata. After drink some extra elevation to other Svedrov group returning from Škrlatica.
https://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2017/07/kukova-skrnatarica-dovski-kriz-veliki.html
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view from Kukova to the saddle towards Škrnatarica2
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towards Škrnatarica4
Amfiteater5
Dovški križ6
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large altar9
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misace8. 05. 2018 05:34:47
Not really big this year yet wink Kukova yesterday 7.5.2018, compact snow but noon already annoyingly crusty about 100 m in Gulce. Colleague bypassed below the entrance to the nice filled Škrnatarica gully and turned to Gulce saddle. From there to top completely dry. Since it's talked about, I'd 100x rather give 2 euros for the train or minibus than beg hikers to Peričnik...
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kosutica12321. 06. 2018 13:32:21
Conditions on 20. 6. 2018 - the path over gulce is already completely dry.
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redbull21. 06. 2018 17:53:55
Tosipa said it well
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Clovek12. 07. 2018 19:28:03
Yesterday on Skrnatarica and Kukovi spici. Winter gear mandatory for Skrnatarica. smile
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dU_MQ9uQUd4&t=6s
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LEA ŠTUMBERGER3. 02. 2020 08:10:48
02.02.2020 Škrnatarica from Vrat.

Apart from it being very hot and the snow wet, the path was beaten all the way, we tracked the tour and gully without issues.

TOUR REPORT smile
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KLAN4. 04. 2021 15:29:19
Today on Škrnatarica. Start at 4.40 a.m. from parking under Črlovec. Morning ice was hard as concrete, elevation gained really fast. Above 2000 m fog hit me and it was shitty to find that gully on Škrnatarica. Snow above 2200 m some 15 cm thick pure fluffy and in crampons down that gully slippery :/. Wind horrible; when I reached gully top and attacked that jump my 50 kg almost blown down valley. So gotta go again in May. Snow holds till 9, then slush. Ah, didn't ski, 14 yo kid no touring skis. Otherwise nice tour. Short sweet biggrin
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di23. 08. 2021 09:45:06
From the horizontal PP path under Tičarica, the map shows a rectangular path descending along Tilesov rovt. Is the upper branch (downward) visible, recognizable in the terrain?
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