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Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov

dprapr6. 06. 2015 22:40:58

If you happen to forget some peak in the ridge, it's usually on purpose. So you have a reason to return there.
And today's reason was Veliki stolp Kanceljnov. And the approach from Mlinarice, which Stane described so nicely a few years ago, as only he knows how.
With brother Vinko and Jože we started at the road hut under Vršič and continued along the soft forest path to the stream bed, crossed it under Planja and continued crossing under the walls to the gully leading to the hidden windows under Kot Planja.
At the windows there's a bypass to the left along the ridge with pines, but we were more tempted by going through the windows. Then we descended along the ridge, where it's easier. On the right edge of the Kot we climbed a short jump and crumbly gully to the saddle under the Kanceljnov summit. From there it was pure poetry of climbing to the top of Kanceljnov.
From the summit we descended steep grasses to the foot of Veliki stolp, which is still more friendly from this side. But the ridge is very exposed and crumbly.
As Tone would say, no crowd at the top!
From Veliki stolp we returned to Kanceljnov and via Kot descended again to the valley.
Yes, even here, not just in Matkov kot, you can find a day for the soul.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Today's, intentionally forgotten summit in the ridge.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Who doesn't know it?

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Below Planja and Utrjenim stolpom.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov I don't know if they are the nosy ones or me...

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov The first window, made of snow.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Water from Kotla flows down here, through the windows and over Lešarjev slap.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov On the ledge.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Towards the window. To the top of Kanceljnov, anchors for rappels are installed.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Window.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Two openings above.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Climbing through the window.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov ...

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Quite demanding.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Above the window first through the smooth gully.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov And then up the scree to...

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov ...to Kotla.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov From Kotla over the skokec and along the crumbly gully.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov I haven't walked such terrain here yet.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov From the saddle towards the summit of Kanceljnov.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Steep grassy terrain above Kotla.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov At the summit of Kanceljnov.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Descent and crossing over steep grass to Veliki stolp.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Wild view from the ridge into the depths where the ledge runs from the notch below Germlajtom.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov View from the top of Veliki stolp to the upper part of the ridge.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov The exposure is significant.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Yes, sometimes it's good to bend down and hold onto the rock.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Varied ridge.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov The step below the summit is the most unpleasant - crumbly and exposed.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Team at the summit.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Descent.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov At the end of the descent still steep grass.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov And back up to Kanceljne.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov We are returning again over Kotla, across the meadows...

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov And along the ridge, right of the window downwards.

Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov Due to the closed road over Vršič!!!!???? back over Predel, past someone who was picking similar paths.

(+14)

lijaneja7. 06. 2015 06:36:50

Fantastic, Drago.

(+1)

Daaam7. 06. 2015 08:40:12

Crazy!

(+1)

garmont7. 06. 2015 13:37:56

Congratulations on the exceptional tour!

(+1)

jedriličar7. 06. 2015 18:46:23

Hats off ... fucked to the balls .... mežikanje

(+1)

Volk7. 06. 2015 21:42:28

Drago, I knew this one would be, but that it would be so richly spiced ... nasmeh

Just a modest 'well done' is surely too little.

Congratulations!

Best regards and safe travels.

(+1)

dprapr8. 06. 2015 10:23:19

Thanks everyone!
This approach to Kanceljne through the window and over Kotel is really nice. To Veliki stolp it's also not easy from this side!
Marijan, there will be another opportunity for the whole ridge!

Shkaro16. 10. 2019 22:09:51

On Saturday (12 October 2019) the decision fell on Kanceljne and when we arrive, we'll see what happens nasmeh

The ascent went well, although at the beginning we took a wrong turn and went down low to Mlinarica, so we got back on track ... nice is this Mlinarica nasmeh

Easily targeted the ledge and crossed it easily all the way to the start of Kozji žleb. Through Kozji žleb it's easy to climb under the window. Up we went through the window, but a stone surprised us that hit our nose nasmeh

After the window we climbed through slippery gullies on the right and traversed right and left towards Kotel under Planja. From Kotel we aimed for the red gully on the right and climbed to the saddle ... the gully wasn't so crumbly, in the lower part full of moss. After the saddle follows poetry ... upper cliff of Kanceljni ... there we climb II, optionally some III nasmeh

From the top we went down steep grass to the saddle under Veliki stolp Kanceljnov and climbed the chimney leading directly to the ridge. The ridge is very airy. The last jump before the very top of the Tower is I-II, 3m, harder for descent than ascent nasmeh

After the top we return to the top of Kanceljni and wave and congratulate the trio of Slovenes who climbed Prevčev stolp. We left it for next time. From the top we did abseil ... found 4 anchors ... anchors ideally placed for 60m rope. At the window we went right and down through scree. Wonderful day in lesser-known parts of Julian Alps nasmeh

P.S. Sorry, but Slovenian is not my strong side nasmeh

View towards the n. cliff of Planja and the exhausted tower.

The sun is coming .) Jalovec is smiling..

The stone that fell through the window landed on the hard nose :)

View through the window to the other side.

View of Kotel below the n. wall of Planja.

Exit from the red gully and view up to the saddle... to the left is the summit wall of Kanceljni.

View from the saddle to the other side (Jalovec, Pelci, interesting Bricelj...).

View from the wall onto Planja and Razor.

View from the summit of Kanceljni to Veliki stolp and beyond to Goličica and Germlajt.

Detail in front of the saddle under Veliki stolp.

Jump just before the summit of Veliki stolp

We congratulated the team of three Slovenians who climbed Prevčev stolp by leaving them 3 Laško beers next to the car so they wouldn't be thirsty when they return :)

We finished the tour at Vršič where we planned the next tour with Laško :)) Cheers! :)

(+22)

taubi417. 10. 2019 09:34:48

Tonči, Slovenian really isn't ideal, but the effort with it is very commendable. And of course all congratulations for the nice tour and nice photo report.

(+3)

jarsan17. 10. 2019 16:17:17

Taubi4, compared to many contributions by Slovenian authors, Antonija's Slovenian is surprisingly good.

(+5)

Shkaro17. 10. 2019 20:52:27

Thanks everyone! But...from many authors I learned a lot on hribi.net nasmeh

(+6)

dprapr19. 10. 2019 13:55:40

This is also a tour that's not just for one visit. Extremely beautiful and varied approach to Kanceljni, which won't disappoint you with grassy carpets on the summit. With Veliki stolp it's just an extra bonus.

(+1)

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Kanceljni and Veliki stolp Kanceljnov