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Alta Via 1 - connecting trail through the Dolomites

bagi2. 09. 2024 11:34:49

We've been exploring the Dolomites for several years and visited many peaks, discovered beautiful approaches and climbed most via ferratas. But we started repeating ourselves a bit and needed a new challenge. It came in the form of triangular markers for connecting trails through the Dolomites called Alta Via. We'd seen them countless times and finally they attracted us too nasmeh

. To start, *La Classica* was up.

Alta Via 1 is the mother of eight similar ones and its start dates to distant 1966. Though relatively the easiest, it's also one of the most beautiful. It crosses Braies Dolomites, Fanes-Senes group, then Ampezzo Dolomites, Zoldo and Belluno ones and more. We'd been everywhere, but this experience was markedly different.

In one go we hiked 129 km and 8400m ascent, depending on final variant. There are two, each chooses per experience and fitness. We took the longer and much harder one of both, running right under Monte Schiare summit. Descended via ferrata Marmol and past Rif. 7°Alpini headed to final destination Belluno.

Even at these altitudes days were too hot, but water plentiful along whole trail. We refilled just two half-liter bottles constantly, two reserves untouched to end. Better safe than sorry, unnecessary on Alta Via 1. Water sources untouched even by this August.

Huts more than enough, no big food worries. Drink and meal prices sometimes lower than home, selection much higher. Even in touristiest spots prices normal, staff friendly and helpful despite crowds. Fun fact. We communicated in English with staff in every visited hut no problem.

Different story for stays near famous peaks, especially weekends. Everything fully booked, even winter rooms or similar. No Slovenian hut sleeping variants known there. Many Alta Via 1 hikers, recognizable by huge backpacks. They book huts months, even year ahead, especially those from other end of world. Met quite a few Americans, many Koreans and even an Australian. We chased dry weather so no hut bookings, but tent just in case.

That's its own story. Officially tenting outside camps forbidden, fine supposedly 700€. Unofficially ok to pitch one night dusk to dawn, away from huts and eyes. No trash or traces self-evident.

So much generally. How we hiked, slept and return logistics follows...

(+14)

bagi3. 09. 2024 11:38:37

Day 1 - Braies Lake / Fanesi (with overnight outdoors)

First had to get to start. Drove there via Austria and parked at affordable P3 parking right by lake. This year 8 €/day, access without online reservation only till 9am, return anytime. Told guy at P3 entrance how many days gone and he gave bill for each. Simple effective. No payment control at exit nasmeh

.

Alta Via 1 starts at world famous Braies Lake and accordingly tourists from whole world there. Cameras clicking everywhere, annoying drones plenty and quickly left nice backdrop. Bit into steep and first climbed to hut Rif. Biella then leisurely walked to hut Rif. Sennes. Here made stop in pleasant surroundings then continued past next hut and descended into valley on extremely steep path.

Followed ascent to Fanesi and very touristy area of huts Rif. Lavarella and Rif. Fanes. Even suitcases saw there velik nasmeh

. But despite large capacities no free bed possible. So continued without planned target as knew sleep in tent this time. Pitched it just before dusk at height around 2300m near small spring. Numerous peaks surrounded us and mainly silence. This small local stole from us for a while sniffing around tent then moved to land of dreams...

After the drive from Slovenia we park right next to Brajniško jezero

The most famous scenery, for which the series Mountain Rescuer is largely responsible

The official start of the Alta Via 1 trail is on the opposite side of the lake

On the ascent, our shadows keep us company. We still need to get used to the heavy backpacks

The sun catches us in the final steep section. Fortunately, the wind comes to our aid

Some fixed cables are more for the numerous tourists than actually necessary

Soon we reach the Sora Forno pass, where the ascent to Croda del Becco begins

View of the beautiful Senes landscape below us. We skip the summit this time as it is not part of our route

We descend to Rif. Biella hut. It is still early, so we do not stop

In this area AV1 is well marked, which is not the case everywhere

Croda del Becco, also Seekofel or Sas dla Porta. We were up there last year

Walking is pure pleasure :). The landscape is beautiful and gently undulating without excessive ascents or descents

There are plenty of notices about the park everywhere, as well as a bunch of prohibitions

Beautiful landscape. In the background is the beautiful and easily accessible summit of Muntejela de Senes

Rif. Sennes hut. We have not been here before, so we take time for a break

This hov-hov has to carry its own snack :)

Rather large Fodara Vedla pasture. Here we will see another unknown hut

The namesake hut, more visited due to the closer starting point from the valley. It even has a charging station for e-bikes.

But no Wi-Fi, though advice is worth its weight in gold in today's world.

Cows know how to enjoy themselves even without a signal, although each has two antennas :)

Direction left, followed by a steep descent into the valley.

The photo doesn't convey the true steepness, but descent isn't much faster than ascent.

We must descend down there. Behind the hut is the main and last parking lot.

Rif. Pederü hut is privately owned. We haven't been here yet.

After a short break we continue ascent along Val di Marebbe. View back…

View ahead. Our path is on the right, parallel road goes to next huts.

Tourist alpine pasture Pices Fanes. Lots of day-trippers here provide extra income.

Another tourism-oriented hut Ücia dles Muntagnoles. Just arrived with real suitcases :)

Road junction to one or the other mountain hut.

Rif. Fanes hut, owned by CAI alpine club. No free beds available at all.

We just top up water; beside the trough is a nice garden with excellent vegetables. Freshest possible.

Of course we continue as there's no choice. View back to path and St. Anthony's mountain.

Path takes us past small Lago di Limo lake. We've been here many times.

Familiar signposts. Typically wooden in this national park area, become illegible over time.

The mound in the middle is La Varella, after which one of the previous huts is named.

Alp Ucia de Gran Fanes with inflated prices, only once on the entire path.

But that didn't spoil the overall impression. You pay, think your own thoughts, and continue into the beautiful landscape.

Old acquaintance along the path, Cima Campestrin.

The day tilts toward evening, we enjoy the cool of the Val Fanes valley.

At the suitable junction we turn left toward the Forcella di Lago pass, where the AV1 route is led.

The day is already departing and near the spring we quickly find a spot for bivouac. We set up at about 2300 m altitude.

GPS track of the first day. It accumulated 26 km and 1900 m elevation gain.

(+16)

bagi4. 09. 2024 11:41:24

Day 2 - Fanesi / hut Rif. Città di Fiume

The day started with packing the tent amid wonderful views of the early morning. The cold quickly drove us away and soon we crossed the pass Forcella di Lago and then descended all the way to the lake Lago di Lagazuoi. There we counted at least thirty people who had overnighted in tents or without them. There followed an ascent to the namesake pass, then descent into the valley past the peak Col dei Bos, crossing the main road and another ascent on the opposite side towards the towers Cinque Torri. A bit lower we passed the hut Cinque Torri and descended deep into the valley all the way to the road for Passo Giau.

From there we ascended for hours to the opposite bank all the way to the hut Rif. Croda da Lago, which stands on a beautiful location. Here we took a longer break for the last bite, ascent to the pass Forcella Ambrizzola and traverse on the opposite side of the ridge towards the hut Rif. Città di Fiume. The day was already well into the final part, but the nice path with excellent surface was the right opposite of the previous one. Kilometers flew and we were at the final location well before dusk. A bit with a lump in the throat because we had reserved nothing, but all turned out well nasmeh

. Hot shower washed the day's dirt and cooled overheated bodies, good dinner satisfied tummies. Priceless velik nasmeh

Morning view of the neighboring three-thousander Piz dles Cunturines.

We quickly pack the backpacks and set off toward the Forcella di Lago pass.

There a signpost and the Alta Via 1 path sign await us.

The crossing is already familiar to us. A descent follows on very steep scree.

Path marker, and so it will be all the way to the lake far below.

The steepness is cleverly eased by numerous comfortable zigzags built over a long period.

Little lake Lech de Lagacio, popular overnight spot. The path across above it was washed away by a landslide.

We were here shortly ago. It ascends toward the Forcella Lagazuoi pass.

There signs direct us to another pass, this time Forcella Travenanzes.

Piz Fanesi, always attractive, always beautiful.

View back at one of the most touristy huts ... Rif. Lagazuoi

We descend into the valley, cross the main road and climb up the other side towards the hut Rif. Scoiattoli

It stands next to the towers of Cinque Torri with a sad history from the First War

Follows descent to another nearby hut, this time Rif. Cinque Torri. No overnight stay possible in either.

From here on we venture into the unknown for a while, where we haven't walked before

The view is familiar to us from other explorations, but we have no idea where exactly we're going

For starters, we descend steeply and sooner or later we'll have to make up the altitude

Following 437, AV1 markings are almost gone

After a long and hot ascent we reach Lago Federa lake. Horses are for better grazing and cooling their knees in the water :)

Hut Rif. Croda da Lago, also Rif. Palmieri, which still strongly smells old :)

It's still early, so we say goodbye to the friendly hosts and continue

Summit of a very interesting shape, Becco di Mezzodì

After an excellent and gentle path we reach the pass Forcella Ambrizzola. Here we look to the other side

We turn left and here too we walk on a beautiful path :)

View back. We already have quite a few kilometers behind us, some still await

This peak still awaits us. Monte Pelmo hides in the clouds

Heh heh … he fenced the car so the goats don't eat it :)

Shepherd dwellings. Here they don't have it as comfortable as at home

Rif. Città di Fiume hut. Perhaps we'll get lucky with bunk beds :)

Asking doesn't hurt and after some waiting we get what we wanted. Above all they have a hot shower for 5 €/5 minutes, which is more than enough for both :)

This day was one of the longer ones. We covered 27 km and 1700 m of ascent.

(+13)

bagi5. 09. 2024 12:35:07

Day 3 - Rif. Città di Fiume hut / Cappana Trieste

This day was full of nice views, some new paths and quite a bit known. Past Monte Pelma we descended to Palafavera and as always admired Civetta silhouette. Some year ago we traversed it length and breadth and it was one of our best experiences. This time past Coldai hut and nearby lake we headed to its back. We stopped at Rif. Tissi hut for rest. Meanwhile for fun we visited the only summit on the whole trail, few minutes away Cime di Col Rean.

Path continuation also known and we planned Rif. Vazzoler hut for stay. Has 80 beds and last visit almost empty. This time every bunk taken incl. winter room. Warden suggested tenting in nearby forest, but even there full. So we headed further evaluating overnight options. Direct path continuation didn't promise much for tent, so we descended to lower Cappana Trieste. There free beds, free shower and good dinner. Right decision nasmeh

After breakfast we say goodbye to the hosts and set out on the path among the first ones.

Monte Pelmo, this time without a cloud cover

The morning is fresh, walking is a real pleasure

We continue towards the dinosaurs, but we will turn elsewhere earlier

The terrain is quite wet, so boardwalks are placed in many places

Here our next goal is marked, even two of them

Rif. Palafavera hut, which is still deserted so early. We have the terrace to ourselves :)

The hut has an excellent offer, so we continue towards Rif. Coldai only after a longer break

Malga Pioda, where there is also a water trough. Behind it we turn sharply left, or rather where the crowds go :)

People are crowding everywhere. There are countless shortcuts and if you take the marked path, you are alone in many places :)

Rifugio Sonino al Coldai. We skip the stop here, because it is like at a bus station

No way. We will stick to two huts on this list.

Unfortunately, it is known to many tourists as well.

But soon we are alone and continue along AV1. Here it is marked differently, the number is always red.

The cross path below the Civette massif is closed due to remnants of landslides and avalanches.

Our goal is on that peak. It is still a long and hot path there.

Rif. Tissi hut. One has to scramble quite a bit to get here, so no crowds as expected.

The only summit we visited on the entire path, and only for five minutes of extra walking :)

View from the summit onto the hut and the Civette face.

After a longer break we continue to the next hut on AV1.

Abandoned alpine pasture on the large plateau Pian della Lora. Fun fact: the Vazzoler hut has water piped from here.

There is more than enough of it, the ground is even marshy. The same flowers are at Mokrine.

One of numerous towers along the path. A paradise for climbers here.

Rif. Vazzoler hut, full to the roof. No space for us here.

We will find a good spot for the tent. Perhaps we will need help from the lady in the trunk :)

We still have some time before dark, so we continuously assess the situation regarding the continuation of the path.

The whole looks quite rugged and overgrown. We must make a different decision from the original.

No usable space for a tent is visible, so we descend a few hundred elevation meters to Cappane Trieste instead.

The hut is at the parking lot and as such is not very interesting for overnight stays. We easily got beds, we just caught dinner too :)

This time we covered 27 km and 1300 m of elevation gain

(+11)

bagi6. 09. 2024 10:36:09

Day 4 - Cappana Trieste / Rif. Pramperet hut

Ahead the most strenuous day, but we didn't know it yet. In the morning we first returned to the previous day's starting point and headed towards Rif. Carestiato hut. To there long hours, most on steep uncomfortable path. Meanwhile we looked where we could have tented the previous day. Found only two small spots: first good hour from initial junction, second half hour further. One also right at start, but for us too early.

From Carestiato hut descent to Passo Duran and right down main road. Sun already baking hard, with humid air quite tiring combo. To top it off heavenly fan failed and some sections like walking in tropics.

After long way tired we arrived at Rif. Pramperet hut, luckily got space no problem. And not only that. This year four young guys run it, each a bit crazy in own way velik nasmeh

. Everything happened in special way with lots oddities and ended with communal dinner all hikers one table. Dishes totally unusual, each finger-licking. Overall such good experience never had, though slept in many Dolomites huts. And no mistake... everywhere OK, but here something more nasmeh

New morning, new day. After breakfast we say goodbye and head to the starting point.

A bunch of soldiers who checked wild campsites at night :)

After about an hour we reach the point where we should have continued yesterday.

Yesterday's assessment was quite accurate. The path is not exactly a model of comfort, no space for a tent yet.

In addition it is extremely steep and overgrown, which we did not quite expect.

After a few hours we finally reach more level terrain and the first sunshine.

The view of the sunlit peaks quickly brings a smile :)

Descent gully of the long and strenuous Costantini via ferrata which still awaits us.

Nearby is a hut so more and more hikers appear, by gear more tourists.

Rifugio Bruto Carestiato. Here we take a longer break.

After refreshment follows descent to Passo Duran pass.

San Sebastiano on the opposite side still awaits us.

Unusual for AV1, longer descent along the main road.

Tough. We walk through high undergrowth in stuffy, sultry air …

Then a long crossing of screes in scorching sun and complete calm follows. Even the wind is obviously too hot :)

For the first time we spot the sign for the final goal, hut Rif. Pramperet. If no space, we will pitch tent.

This is not too good. Thunderstorm clouds gather over the peaks.

We arrive at the hut still in clear weather, but thunder already cracks behind us.

Without issue we reach even our own room, not just the dormitory. The head chef is already cooking dinner

We just made it into the storm. It quickly darkens over the hut as well

First hail pours down in full, then it rains like from a bucket. Half an hour, no more. At dinner repetition follows...

GPS track of the hiked path. It accumulated 22 km and 1700 elevation gain

(+11)

bagi9. 09. 2024 13:42:24

Day 5 - Rif. Pramperet hut / Rif. 7°Alpini hut

We didn't wait for breakfast this time, because a long day full of unknowns lay ahead. We didn't know the paths, and the descents via ferratas in the Monte Schiare range even less. We only knew that we wanted to hike the entire route all the way to Belluno, which means crossing the mountain massif. This is a longer, more strenuous and in places quite exposed variant, unsuitable for most AV1 hikers. They go by another path directly to the valley and then take a bus to Belluno. Both variants are Alta Via 1.

After the morning departure, we stopped only at the Rif. Pian de Fontana hut. Nice, clean, tidy, perched in balance above a steep gully. Steep gullies are characteristic of these places. Deep, steep, completely green. The Schiare range stands out strongly here and finally we reached it. The sun hid somewhere and we descended into the mysterious world of mists and the Marmol ferrata. It's a beautiful ferrata, but the many kilometers hiked and heavy backpacks required extra caution and attention to every detail. Step by step we managed that too and slowly descended to the Rif. 7°Alpini hut. There we attended to the last act of the day... accommodation. But there we got an unexpected reward, a room for special guests and that just for us nasmeh

. Thanks to the warden. A refreshing shower before dinner followed, some evening conversation at the table, then good night...

We part from it with the most beautiful memories :)

Cima De Zità Nord glows in the awakening sun. The path goes right beside it afterwards.

View back. Beneath these peaks lies the hut from which we have just come.

For now we are still in the shade and pleasant morning coolness. The sun will catch us at the saddle.

So, we are already across. From here we will descend for a long time.

View of the Monte Schiare range. We must go up there.

But at the moment enjoying the beautiful landscape and numerous marmots who don't care much for humans.

The landscape is completely different from yesterday's. We haven't been here yet.

And soon the plateau breaks and we have to descend this steep slope to the next hut.

It is deep below and the path to it is not exactly easy. It even deserves warnings about difficulty.

We have descended from up there, in the foreground is one of the accommodations next to the main building.

Rif. Pian de Fontana hut, central building. Accommodations are in smaller buildings around it.

Interesting marking with the huts listed further on.

View back to the Rif. Pian de Fontana hut from the hill on the opposite side. In between is a deep ravine.

Scouts on a break, for us walking continues :)

The landscape around Schiara is full of deep ravines. In case of a fall, only one-way tickets apply.

But the direction is right. Here there are two variants. One is descent to the valley, the other ascent towards Schiara.

We choose the more difficult one with a more natural course towards the final goal Belluno.

We have to go to the saddle. Surprisingly, there is still snow in the ravine …

The path bypasses the snowfield. After a strenuous ascent we finally reach the saddle and enter the via ferrata.

At the beginning it doesn't seem particularly demanding and the sun even smiles at us.

Without special effort we cross various slabs. The ascent is not too steep either.

Sign from bygone times. The Piero Rossi via ferrata was originally called Marmol via ferrata.

The continuation is nothing special either. Heavy backpacks don't hinder us much.

Branch to the Schiara summit, but it's not part of our path. We'll come again :)

The sun has said goodbye, a mysterious world of mists has formed. We start descending.

In the distance, the bivacco del Marmol appears.

The bivouac is newer, with much more space than the classic one. Everything inside is tidied up, no Czechs :)

The terrain occasionally becomes demanding, so descend carefully along the steel cables

There are some ledges, some scree, and quite steep steps...

And so we slowly arrived from somewhere up there. But the descent is far from over...

The terrain is getting steeper and steeper, fortunately the rock is well structured

Interesting, on the signposts it says Marmol and not Piero Rossi

Ladders also help over the vertical steps

Intersection where we already think about the end of the via ferrata

Mistake and a big one. Some harder sections still await us...

The via ferrata is beautiful, no doubt. But we already feel the many kilometers and heavy backpacks

We made it :). View back at the natural portal, characteristic of this part of the range. The via ferrata runs to the right of it

The day is saying goodbye, we go to try our luck again at Rifugio 7°Alpini hut

And we got it :) Someone cancels a private room for us and the warden assigns it to us :)

Tiring, very scenic day. Accumulated 14 km and 1600 m ascent

(+14)

bagi10. 09. 2024 10:35:16

Day 6 - Rif. 7°Alpini hut / Belluno AP

A shorter final stage awaited us, starting with descent along the Ardo stream gorge. The gorge is picturesque and not boring at all, so time passed quickly for us. The continuation is entirely on roads. To Belluno there were still 7 km of asphalt on country roads separating us. Luckily there was no excessive traffic, and we are used to such walking from other trips. You just take it as a fact and walk the planned path. Thus another good hour passed and the town was right in front of us. With that came the end of our AV1 and we had to arrange the return to the starting point. That's quite a big logistical task, which worked fully. A few hours later we were already at the starting point by Braies Lake nasmeh

. It all went like this:

1. At Belluno AP (next to the train station) we bought bus tickets for Cortina d’Ampezzo … line 9, carrier Dolomitibus. This line has a transfer stop named Tai P.le Olimpico, where you need to get off.

2. Then at that stop wait for line 30, also Dolomitibus. It took us to the main station in Cortina d’Ampezzo. The ticket from Belluno was still valid.

3. In Cortina transfer to line 445, Sudtirolbus towards Toblach. Here we buy the tickets on the bus.

4. At the main AP in Toblach transfer to bus line 442 to Lago di Braies. Here in main season a special regime applies. Tickets cannot be bought on the bus, but must be reserved online beforehand. The driver's goodwill decides whether he lets you on the bus and you arrange the reservation during the ride, or you do it at the station and wait for the next bus.

One more warning … on weekdays the described transfers are quite frequent and we returned to the starting point with minimal waiting between individual lines. Far fewer transfers on Saturdays, even worse on Sundays when there are no workers' buses. The frequency of transfers is also affected by the seasonal and off-season period, so prior planning of the return is essential.

Conclusion ... we hiked the entire AV1, but already looking at the next one. That says everything about how we experienced the hiked path. Excellent experience velik nasmeh

We wave goodbye to the huts at first light. Still quite a few kilometers ahead, mainly the journey home.

Picturesque gorge of Ardo stream. Almost six km of path runs along it to the parking lot.

The stream has torrential character, so the small bridges over it are firmly built.

The path is really picturesque and despite its length never boring.

He, he … she buckled under the weight of the backpack :)

New sign and first official confirmation that this is also AV1. From Schiara down we saw it nowhere.

Parking lot at around 700 m, around it nothing but poverty.

Grannies' washing machine, obviously still in use.

You don't see such signposts very often :)

Not this one either. Market niche whose success I doubt.

Belluno and simultaneously our end of Alta Via 1 path. Follows return to start and drive home.

GPS track of the final path section. We walked another 13 km and 200 m gain, rest of day driving.

(+11)

saram10. 09. 2024 20:01:05

You two have finished your jaunt in the Dolomites, I would still be reading your reports. Really sincere congratulations for all your feats and thanks for sharing them with us.

(+4)

oldtimer 5511. 09. 2024 07:18:52

Also from me sincere congrats for completed six-day tour, meaning fascinating 129 km and 8400m ascent!! Bravo!

(+3)

bagi11. 09. 2024 13:46:56

Thanks, thanks nasmeh

. Really special kind experience and maybe someone repeats it. Highly recommend.

(+3)

ejti11. 09. 2024 15:38:08

Emil and Mateja, it's a pleasure to read you.
Congratulations on the tour.

(+4)

nenap11. 09. 2024 18:21:31

Known Fighters and Victors
Great congratulations velik nasmeh

Nevenka

(+3)

Ljulica12. 06. 2025 22:04:07

Beautiful, rich and extensive trail report. Thanks for this!

Any GPX files of your route available somewhere? Would ease planning a lot.

(+1)

bagi13. 06. 2025 06:16:47

@Ljulica ... no problem nasmeh

. Leave your E-mail in private messages, I'll send you the GPX files to it.

Emil

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Alta Via 1 - connecting trail through the Dolomites