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List of forums / Italy / Dolomites / Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi

Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi

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velkavrh6. 07. 2015 19:22:55
As I already mentioned, we conquered Cima di Terrarosso on Saturday. On Sunday right after breakfast we headed to the neighboring peak Molignon di Mezzo-2845m—so close to the height of our Triglav. Near the hotel where we stayed we went across the pasture right into the rocks and immediately onto the cables, which are not demanding. Then follows a sort of gravelly, scree plateau—dotted with slight ascents and descents. After two hours we reach the real ferrata. Now we put on the climbing gear and boldly into the rocks. There follows a quite long and demanding protected climbing, where without safety equipment you can't go. The ridge is quite airy—really only for experienced. After about an hour two descents down vertical rock follow one after the other. Here you had to descend with the protection of an experienced guide, who slowly lowered you. I myself was more groping with my feet than seeing the appropriate mini ledges. Actually very adrenaline-pumping. After these two demanding D difficulty descents we spotted the mountain hut with a beautiful little lake below. We stopped there a bit. The hut is currently being renovated—expanded. Not far away we spotted a cargo cableway with which the hut is supplied. A clear stream flows out of the little lake. Then follows a long hike down the valley past numerous shepherd huts, large and small guesthouses to our starting point of the first day—Compatsch-1844m. In total we hiked ten hours that day. Ferrata Laurenci was really something special and really only for experienced with guides who master belaying.

Pictures I'll add late evening or tomorrow morning.
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Second morning straight on a ten-hour tour.1
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi View down to that greenery.2
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Our accommodation as seen from here.3
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Mighty rocky terrain all around us.4
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Across the only snow.5
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Start of the via ferrata - iron upwards.6
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Last look at our climbing start from yesterday.7
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Start of the climbing.8
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Ridge.9
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Carefully.10
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi This is how it goes.11
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Very tense.12
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi 13
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi The mountain summit is not particularly interesting. It is only slightly lower than Triglav.14
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Now down.15
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi 16
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi 17
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Two descents are vertically down for quite a few meters. Additional protection is needed. Everything went well.18
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi At the end of all the hardship we behold this beauty.19
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi We are here at 2530 meters.20
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Lake.21
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi It is beautiful.22
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi They are enlarging the mountain hut by the lake.23
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi On the way to the dollino, there is still a break at the inn with the lake. There we drink radler. It costs the same as beer in the mountain hotel - 0.5 l - five euros.24
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi After ten hours of hiking, we are at the starting point ready to depart.25
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi I still owe flowers - two-colored murka.26
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Petkovšek's poppy.27
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Spiked rampion, which does not grow with us.28
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Common rampion, for which I am still searching the name.29
Molignon di Mezzo-2845m via ferrata Laurenzi Let there also be Triglav roses.30
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janezs731. 09. 2015 14:24:49
This year in July my wife and I also climbed this ridge (Molignon) via ferrata Laurenzi, but in the opposite direction to what's described here; some tips for repeaters who want to do it in one day from Val Fassa:

1. in the evening call one of the taxi drivers (e.g. this gentleman +39 336 352 881), who take you to Val Duron even before official schedule and stick to the agreed time, e.g. at 6am he's waiting for you in Campitello at the agreed place at the end of the village by the Duron river and even shows you where to park for free (before the hill, where the road is actually closed).. he takes you to Rif. Micheluzzi (1860m) and can pick you up there in the afternoon if you arrange so

2. tackle the Molignon ridge in the direction we did it, because access to Rif. Antermoia is faster and more direct than to Rif. Alpe di Tires, and therefore you're in the wall/on the ridge sooner, without needing to sleep

3. the ridge is easier in this direction than the opposite, where there are quite hard sections continuously down. In this direction up

So from Rif. Micheluzzi, right behind the building, we go on the grassy path and after 500 m back to the gravel road; on it towards the valley another good kilometer to the signs, where we turn left across the stream towards pass Ciaregolle (to here good hour), then after the pass right above Val Dona (Zenska) to pass Dona; behind it flat to Rif. Antermoia (to here total 2h), which this year for the second time is being renovated and currently you can't sleep there.
Behind Rif. we go past lake Antermoia and after it about 200 m right up steep scree, which in the middle splits into two gullies, choose LEFT, although at first glance it looks more hopeless than the right one.
At the top of the gully is the entry to ferrata Laurenzi (to here total 3h). First 30 m are the hardest, have to pull over some slabs and overhangs, but between them you can rest nicely, also plenty of options for belaying; this year one piton was loose, but without problem you can get through.
Behind slabs go towards the notch and from it right up to the right summit of Antermoia Kogel / Croda dei Cirmei (flat summit with brown soil!,2852m). Here the fun begins! First down, the ridge is easy, about 0.5 m wide, but very exposed, airy on both sides "for export", those with fear of heights no way here; no cables in this section. After about 100 m descend left down gravel slope; when passage runs out see small pegs on right, over which pull over slabs distance about 10 m; cable is torn, initial part almost usable, but not for belaying; then steep gully to notch, above it on slab left back to ridge. Then along ridge detouring to north side (right) on flakes to last exit section (in between into one notch) and to summit Molignon (2779m), from there right on easy terrain to repeated notch, which is easy. Behind it sharply left down over easy pinnacles towards saddle Molignon (2598m). When we reach north saddle (actually two saddles together, from here few meters up towards NW to opposite side, by no means south of saddle and down to hut Alpe di Tires (red roof). Then down Val Duron to start, total about 7h, max 10 h.
Through Duron valley1
Fork for Ciaregole pass2
Path towards Ciaregole pass3
Between Ciaregole pass and Dona pass4
View from Dona pass to the valley and Antermoia hut, our ridge is behind to the right5
Plain behind Antermoia lake, view towards Marmolata in the background; on this plain we turn up (photographing backwards, so in this direction the Laurenzi via ferrata is behind me on my left)6
View from the left gully on the traversed slope below us towards Antermoia lake7
Entrance to Laurenzi via ferrata8
The most difficult spots are below and above Zeno9
Start of the ridge is incredibly wide (exact opposite of what follows)10
Brown earth on the summit11
Ridge starts descending, sharpness visible behind12
Locally exposed - using wide-angle lens, dimensions seem larger... distance farther. In reality very sharp13
One more from the ridge14
View back upon return to ridge: before place where ridge narrower than Financarjev between V. Rokav and Skrlatica, path retreats down (right on photo, left in path direction)15
Another notch, here exemplarily equipped16
Typical retreat to north side in second part17
End of sharp section18
Ridge end before Alpe di Tires hut19
Descent through Duron valley back to Micheluzzi hut20
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