Nassfeld - Torre Clampil (Ferata Amicizia Nassfeld Pramollo)

Access to the starting point:
From Ljubljana, take the Gorenjska motorway, exit Hrušica, continue via the Rateče border crossing to Trbiz. Continue on the local road to Pontebba. Before the village, pass through the second underpass and immediately after it straight ahead along the left bank of the river to the crossroads with signs for Nassfeld. Follow the road to the pass and pass a small lake across the state border. Just after it, before the road starts to descend, there is a large gravel parking area on the left, where you park. There is also a kiosk with one thousand and one signs at the edge of the parking lot ;). It takes 2 hours to drive the whole way from Ljubljana to the parking lot.

Path description:
Access to the ferrata :
We will go in the route mountain pasture of the Madritschen Alm, and pass by it on the shortest route to enter the ferrata. This is located above the upper of the two artificial lakes we will meet.
The trailhead and signs can be found at the edge of the parking lot. Continue to the right along a nice dirt road to the first signposts. Here the trail turns left towards 403. Soon you will reach the lower artificial lake, past which the path leads on the left. You see the signs again and continue straight ahead past a bench into a thin forest. After leaving the forest, you will come to a dirt road on which you can continue your ascent. The marked path leads through a meadow, but in summer there are plenty of cow pies with pleasant smells :). The two paths come together at a signpost pointing in the route mountain pasture Madritschen Alm. The old wooden sign, which is still in the photo, has apparently recently been removed, so the fountain above the gravel path should be used for orientation. The path goes past it and is marked. After crossing mountain pasture, the markings lead you to the right to cross the slope at the top of which is the upper gondola station. The route is pleasant and the views are opening up more and more. On the right side, our destination Torre Clampil, or rather its north face, is already opening up. Continue to the signposts above the left edge of the water park and follow the path down to the scree below the cliffs. There is an additional signpost. Straight up there is an easy ridge ferry, and our route leads right across the slope towards the middle of the vertical wall. If you follow the markings carefully, there will be no problems. Additional comments on the route are provided with the photos.

Ferrata :
Ferata itself is well marked and protected from start to finish. Its character is defined by the vertical walls over which you have to climb. These are overhanging in some parts, so the route reaches grade E. The most difficult part is just in the upper third, just over 20-30 m, so those who will have difficulties already at the bottom had better give up in time. There are no emergency exits. The ascent is mainly via scrambles with a safety cable alongside. This is of little help on the ascent, as it is routed past the cramps and is more or less self-supporting. Hand strength is essential.

Descent :
There are two additional descent options at the top. You can go left in the direction of the Winkel Turm and follow the easy ridge ferrata back to the starting point at the lake. There is also a nice descent to the right which leads via easier rock steps to the saddle between Torre Clampil im Monte Cavallo. From here, descend to the base and keep to the right marked path. This also leads back to the starting point at the lake below Torre Clampil. From here, the descent towards the parking lot follows the direction of ascent.

Warnings :
The description refers to the condition of the route in August 2011. It is wise to check the condition of the route before heading up the wall. There are no emergency exits. Climbing gloves and a short harness (umbilical cord) for resting or taking photos are very useful. The hands suffer the most in this wall. A helmet and a self-protection kit are a must. Complete indifference to depth is also necessary, as there is more air underfoot than on a few ferrata. Without proper experience, this route will quickly show its teeth to the unprepared mountaineer.

Good luck !

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