Plaz Črlovec - Kukova špica (via SE outside corner)

Access to the starting point:
Leave the Gorenjska motorway at the Hrušica exit and follow the road towards Kranjska Gora. Just before the village of Dovje, the road branches off to the left and leads to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma). Follow the road in the direction of the Vrata valley, passing the cottage at Peričnik, to where a large landslide crosses the road. Park here in one of the roadside car parks.

Path description:
On the lower side of the avalanche, you will see a path that climbs gently at first along the avalanche called Črlovec. Soon the path starts to climb steeply and leads us between the two torrential landslides (Mali and Veliki Črlovec). The path then climbs steeply in switchbacks, mostly through dense forest. After two hours of walking, we reach a cross path (Poldov rovt - Vrtaško sleme), where we continue to the left. The path then continues to cross the slopes to the left and leads out of the forest onto scree covered with dwarf pines. Pay attention here, as you have to leave the path two ravines before the "normal" turn-off to Kukova spica. The gully climbs steeply and already in the gully we meet some grade II climbing places. Soon the gully closes and we are prevented from continuing by an overhang. After a few metres the route leads us into a nice basin where we can choose between two options: either straight up and to the base of the crack, where there is a wedge for descending into the gully below us and continuing on the steep grasses to the start of the route, or straight up from the wedge (IV. I recommend descending the rope and continuing along the broken gully to the base, as the crossing is mentally very tiring.
Once you are at the base of the crack, the route only really begins. It takes about 3 hours from the starting point to get here. There are four stretches of enjoyable climbing on the open crack (the route is quite well equipped, but I still recommend a set of butterflies, two profile chocks and five "Jesenicans". On a very exposed wall we approach the last anchorage before leaving the wall with a long traverse to the right. It is best to stay as close to the crack as possible and do not move too far away from the crack entrance, as this will make the climbing much harder. Up to the traverse the wall is quite upright, but the difficulties do not go beyond level IV. There is a long traverse to the right, first around the secondary buttress, then over the fallen gully and finally along the loaded ledge to the peak, below the Prižnica. At Prižnica the problems are over. However, it takes a fair bit of effort to reach the Prižnica after the exit wall. The last part is starting from the chock straight up, traversing to the right (very awkward) and a few more metres of great holds to a shelf where you arrange belaying. From the shelf to the Prižnice it is just a walk on scrambly and grassy terrain. The route continues along the broken summit ridge (at least 2 hours) to the top of Kuka Spitsa. After a very scenic ridge, we progress quite quickly towards the summit, in between we may be surprised by some more grade III, but we should not have any major problems. A very scenic direction, compact rock and a wild atmosphere. It is one of the classics, but it is true that the "approach" can be more difficult than the route itself. It is probably needless to say that the route is a climbing ascent in the SE direction, where the intermediate belaying and the rules of climbing in a bunch with all the equipment are obligatory.
If we approach the sub-route via the Kukove prode, the difficulty of the approach is considerably reduced (I-II. )
Descend to Gulce.

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