Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav (via Veliki Oltar (ridge way))
Starting point: Poldov rovt (Vrata) (941 m)
Name of path: via Veliki Oltar (ridge way)
Time of walking: 9 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Altitude difference: 1705 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1705 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Views: 19.188
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Access to the starting point:
Drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for the Vrata valley. Continue through the Vrata valley, and about 200 metres before the 10 km road marker, you will see cairn and cart track on the right, where the route described above begins.
Path description:
Take the cart track sign, which leads into the wods and then past a small house, where you continue slightly to the left on a footpath. Go through the forest and climb slightly to the left towards the Red Brok. Just before the brok, a path branches off to the right across the Juniper (marked cairn, with a face and the letter L carved on a tree). The path then leads to a stream bed. Here the path goes up the right-hand side (left bank) and then soon crosses the stream to the left-hand side. The path climbs up the valley until it is blocked by a small wall, where you usually also come across a small well. The path goes right from here and climbs steeply after a natural crossing. Slightly exposed and not protected. We are above a small waterfall (if there is water). Here we come out of the forest and climb over some scree. The path over the scree is not comfortable as storms and landslides destroy the path every year. The path soon turns slightly to the right and briefly climbs up a grassy slope. Then it climbs again along the scree and soon reaches the bivouac at Jezeri, which you will see on your left. We can spend the night here or just take a bucket in case of a storm. This is where the world flattens out. The view of Triglav from here is very beautiful.
The path from here on slowly disappears but we can still follow it. Walk through the meadow called Na Jezerih (there used to be a lake here). The path turns slightly to the right here. Straight ahead we see the Dovški Križ. Our path goes into the wall slightly to the left of Dovški Križ. Lok for a path going up the steep slopes. It is not difficult to find the path as there are cairns signs along the way. Here the path becomes quite difficult. First, there is a steep climb up a rocky slope, followed by an exposed crossing to the left without all the fixed safety gear. In wet conditions, high risk of slipping. Once over this rocky jump you reach the ridge. Go left here and descend slightly to the Grlo saddle. You will reach the scree below the Altar and start to climb up it. We see a distinct gully (straight ahead) and head towards it. Follow the men who direct you slightly to the left of the gully. The slope becomes steeper and steeper and also slightly crumbly. Towards the top, turn right again to reach the main ridge just above the stubble. Continue along the north side of the ridge for a few metres and then climb back up to the ridge. It is only a few metres walk along the exposed ridge to the summit. From the main summit, follow the ridge towards the High Sleeve. To the stump, we go left by a rock jump, Into the stump we go down the rope (30m). From the stump on, keep to the right of the main ridge, we are in the top of the VR building and all around us is one big scree slope. The way to the plate is indicated by cairns, which are quite often placed. When we find the last cairn, we head across to the penultimate cone. From the top of the cornice we descend on a crumbly world into the stub between the last and penultimate cornice, two more sections of extremely crumbly world await us and finally we are standing on VR. Needless to say, the ridge traverse is a mountaineering climb with difficulty grades up to III, the ridge is precipitous, crumbly and extremely exposed, complete mountaineering equipment is mandatory, it is best to go up the VR with someone who has been up it before, or even better, accompanied by a GV.
The ascent of the Altar is a very difficult route with climbing up to grade 2. The use of belaying is highly recommended.
Despite the many little men who help us find easier passages, orientation is still challenging.
Pictures:
Discussion about the trail Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav (via Veliki Oltar (ridge way))
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kroca7. 08. 2012 |
Ali načrtuje katera skupina z GV prehoditi turo Poldov rovt-Visoki rokav preko Velikega Oltarja v avgustu,kateri bi se lahko priključil?
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fuga15. 08. 2012 |
Ravnokar bil gor. Kar zahtevna tura. K sreči sva se s kolegom odločila za to varianto in ne obratno, sicer bi se najbrž kar obrnila. Rokavov ozebnik je skoraj nerazpoznaven, sama malta, brozga snega in peska, eno samo podiranje. Bolje je v jeseni, ko je malo pomrznjeno. Za abzajlanje je pa dober, le vrv bom moral vreči v pralni stroj.
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JusAvgustin26. 06. 2013 |
Napišem še tukaj. Najprimernejši čas za obisk VR... Sedaj, ko je sneg v Rokavskem ozebniku je optimalno. Seveda so dereze in cepin obvezna oprema na taki turi. Najtežja mesta so opremljena, naprej je pa potrebna previdnost na tej podrtiji. Zame najlepši pristop je še vedno preko Velikega Oltarja. Iz vrha po grebenu, nato do nakazane grede v vzhodnem pobočju, ki nas privede do škrbine, od tam pa po Z strani do druge! izrazite grape, ki prereže vršno zgradbo Rokava. Malo uporabljen, alternativen pristop. Od tam po skrotju na vrh, čez kratko mesto III. tež. stopnje. Prvič sva s soplezalcem zastavila kar po grebenu, kar je pa izrazito nepriporočljivo in izredno izpostavljeno. Klini za spust iz Rokava v ozebnik so, prav tako za spust po ozebniku in v škrbino. Na grebenu je pa klinov malo, smer se ne oddaljuje dosti od grebenske rezi. Na taki turi nekaj železja nikoli ne škoduje imeti s seboj! Pa srečno!
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tilenko23. 07. 2014 |
Opravil grebensko prečenje v obratni smeri in sicer Poldov rovt - Visoki rokav - Oltar in nato mimo bivaka v dolino. Orientacija je kar zahtevna.
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darinka41. 05. 2015 |
Kdaj ,misliš ,bo letos , ko je manj snega ,primeren čas za vzpon na V Oltar ? lp
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JusAvgustin1. 05. 2015 |
Dvomim, da jih bo šlo veliko tukaj čez...
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darinka41. 05. 2015 |
Koliko vas gre običajno poleti ?
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darinka42. 05. 2015 |
Ja samo do V Oltarja, ne nameravam drugam lp.
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andrejp24. 08. 2016 |
mogoče kdo ve kakšno je stanje v ozebniku, sneg?
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